High Exposure

*** SOLD to @Theron ***

*** SOLD *** BNIB Surefire DSF-870 Found a good price so I grabbed one. They sent me two, but I only need one. Normally these go for $350-$399. Looking for $280 plus shipping (that’s what I paid for it). Dual brightness integrated weaponlight for the Remington 870: • Switchable from 600/200 Lumens • Constant and momentary on pressure switch • Replaces forearm on the slide assembly • Easy installation, comes with wrench • Works with sidesaddles • Takes 2 CR123 batteries (included) https://www.surefire.com/products/illumination/weapon-lights/dsf-870/ *** SOLD ***

Bump and updated

Bump

Bump

Nice try North Jersey. That is an April Fools article.

870 express with Wingmaster guts (trigger and bolt) and Magpul furniture, clamp, and sling. Barrel, dome safety, follower are Vang Comp. Sidesaddle is Mesa, optic mount w/Aimpoint T1 is Aridus, front sight is Wilson. The Surefire DSF-870 should be here tomorrow to replace the Inforce WML. All the same ammo in sidesaddle. Top vs bottom on brass is for strong hand vs support hand reloads. Cruiser ready (Condition 3) with 6 Winchester segmenting slugs in the tube and 6 Hornady TAP in sidesaddle.

Almost done. New SF light and mag extension without a sling loop should be here this week.

Just had one here at the base of Sandy Hook. Shook the whole house!

Negative on my end. I have a rear sight only. Sorry! I though I had a complete set.

If this is your concern, you should keep in mind that the LOP of a standard A2 stock (13.5”) is shorter than the shortest length you can adjust for on the Magpul stock (13.85”). Another option is to get an A1 stock with a LOP of 12.875”

Lol! Well figure it out eventually! 2 grown ass men can’t find 15 minutes in a week to get together…. What a crazy world!

Let me check the parts bin when I get home. I still have that VFG for you as well….

Hard armor has 3 categories to consider when choosing what works: • Affordable • Lightweight • Effective You get to choose 2. Do not get Steel plates. HDPE, Ceramic, or hybrid is the way to go. Spend the $$ for multicurve. I like SAPI and Shooter cuts. Don’t get plates too big - 10x12 is generally right for most normal sized people. Wear them correctly - don’t let them sag. Don’t skimp on the carrier. Pay attention to if the plates are stand alone or have to be worn in conjunction with soft armor backers. Rule of thumb - get armor that stops the round you carry. Then do some research on what other common threats are in your area. Hesco has a good reputation.

As far as RDS - I have a T2, four T1s, a PRO, and a CompM3 in a mix of LaRue, Geissele, ADM, and Scalarworks, QD mounts. None have ever failed or lost zero. The Comp M3 and the T2 have much sharper dots that the T1s and PRO. I want to try Aimpoint’s new Duty optic, but I have no time on one yet. I do also have other RDS that are more budget friendly on guns that are for competition or plinking: I have a Trijicon SRS and an MRO, but I’m not sold on them 100% yet. I don’t think they even make the SRS anymore and the MRO has some parallax and slight magnification issues I’m not a fan of. I also have a few Holosuns that have been decent for fun guns. Couple of 502 and 503s as well as a 510 on my PCC. I sometimes get weird reflections in the glass on the Holosuns giving me multiple dots, and there is some slight parallax around the edges. The notch filter is also very noticeable.

American Defense Manufacturing, or ADM https://www.admmfg.com/micro-t1-mount

No restrictions: Aimpoint T2 in an ADM or LaRue low QD mount. Budget option: Aimpoint PRO in ADM Low QD mount

Dunno who makes that one, but Geissele makes a mount for a standard bayonet that mounts to 1913 https://geissele.com/super-stabby-bayonet-mount-black.html

Well shit. @Krdshrk beat me to it.

If you are spending the money to put an optic on the carbine, who cares about the irons being blocked? Why compromise your primary method for sights because you may need your back up irons? If you want irons, just run irons and forget the optic. Set yourself up for success - if you get a quality RDS optic and a quality QD mount, there is a 99% chance you’ll never even need the irons. Other than zeroing, I can not remember the last time I used my iron sights on an optic equipped gun. Put the optic on a quality mount (LaRue, ADM, Geissele, Bobro, Scalar, etc..) that has a QD. If the 1% chance happens and your optic dies, flip the QD and ditch the whole thing off the rail. Then your irons are clear and you can continue doing whatever you have to do.

Any quick adjust 2 point of your choice. I am not a fan of the loose running end versions like the VTAC. I like closed loop versions like Magpul, BFG VCAS, and Ferro, even though they have a shorter adjustment range. December Customs is a local NJ company that make a nice sling as well. I have checked them out, and theirs will probably be the next sling I buy. Surefire is my preferred light along with ModLight. Just make sure your “switchology” is simple and intuitive. A higher quality optic can always be used for low quality tasks. The opposite is not always true. My opinion has always been a combination of: • Best value trumps lowest price • Buy once, Cry once • You get what you pay for If your only getting one optic set up, save a little longer and get the better kit.

Lol. Depends what you are doing. Plinking/recreation? Sure. $400 may be enough for a Holosun 502 and a quality QD mount so I can ditch the optic and go to irons if the optic failed. If it was a social gun that I was betting my life on and was now considered personal safety equipment? No way. I’d put an Aimpoint T1 with a LaRue or ADM QD mount. But - you shouldn’t even be thinking about also adding an optic to a social gun until you have a sling and white light on it - in that order.

Stop overthinking it. A red dot sight (RDS) will be the primary sighting system as it is much faster and generally more accurate than irons in all conditions. With the addition of an improved sighting system, irons are now relegated to BUIS - BACK UP Iron Sight - status. Set the carbine up to be most effective with your primary sighting system - the RDS. In other words: • Buy a quality optic • Buy a quality mount • Put the optic where it is comfortable to use, and where it will let you perform the best The optic should be easy to find, have an uncluttered view, and comfortable to use with no extra steps (like rotating the rifle or dropping your head) Then figure out your irons after your RDS is optimized. Right now you are trying to do it backwards. Do not compromise your most useful sighting option to give priority to your back up system. If you do it right, you will never even need the BUIS. Hell, in 20 years, I’ve never deployed my irons on any of my carbines or rifles that are outfitted with optics.