High Exposure

In my experience zeroing both the RDS and the magnifier in conjunction without first zeroing the RDS by itself would lead to wild inaccuracy when running the RDS alone. Same thing with zeroing the RDS by itself and not confirming with the Magnifier. I'm talking completely missing the target from 25 yards when working from barricades inaccurate, with tight groups in the other configuration on the same course of fire. This is what I have come up with to prevent that. If you are using a FTS or removable magnifier I have found that this is the best way to zero it. Keep in mind this is with the Aimpoint magnifier that has screws for fine adjusting the magnifier for parallax. 1) Zero the T1 itself at your desired distance. (50 yards in my case.) Magnifier is offset and not utilized during this portion. 2) Once the T1 was zeroed with a tight group, paste the target. Do not cover up the 10 shot final confirmation group that was the final zero, just markered up the borders of the holes to designate they were the final group. 3) Place the 3x Magnifier over in line with the RDS. Shoot two rounds per iteration with an observer behind whatever we had (spotting scope, binoculars, monoculars) and then corrected it with the Allen Wrench until it was hitting in the same position as the RDS final group. We confirmed with a shot string of 10 shots for this. Once both the RDS standalone and the RDS/3x Magnifier combination were both zeroed at the desired distance, if possible head over to the 200 yard range and confirm a good 50/200 zero.

Yeah, depending on the size of the "bull". Your "target" area should be appropriate for the rifle/ammo you are shooting. If you are zeroing a carbine with a RDS shooting normal ammo, 4 MOA is a realistic target area, so you should have an aiming point that is 8" in diameter at 200 yards/4" in diameter at 100 yards/2" in diameter at 50 yards/1" in diameter at 25 yards. All rounds in the bull, you are zeroed. If the group is less than 4" then that is a bonus. You can make small adjustments/corrections to try to center the group in the 4" target if you wish. But, it is hard to get a group size that is more precise than your aiming point. There are a couple of tricks like turning the intensity to the lowest visible setting or using the edge of the dot at the 12 o'clock position as a finer aiming point that will help with this. RDS with 3x Magnifiers are a whole other animal with an entirely different process. Just remember. That dot size doesn't change even though it looks bigger through the magnifier. And your zero may shift with and without the magnifier in place. If you are shooting an SPR variant with a 4x optic (or 9x or 12x) and match ammo, this of course changes what an acceptable zero is and the steps to achieve it. Shoot 5 round groups, 3 shots really tell you nothing. When you are satisfied shoot a 10 round confirmation group. I usually shoot a second 10 round group to confirm zero at the end of the range day as well.

I prefer a 50/200 yard zero. (Green trace on graph below) Most of the higher speed teams use it at it is the most versatile zero out there for DA/CQB/FISHing. It is very simple to use, simply account for mechanical offset when taking a high percentage shot by aiming high 2.5"-2" inside of 10 yards, 1.5" high at 15 yards and around 1" at 25 yards. Everything else from 0-215 yards is +/- 3" from point of aim and requires no holdover adjustments.

Ugh... The more I research, the more I realize I have no idea what I am doing with this platform. What is a bullet guide and why would you need one? What part is the "trunion" and what does it do? How do you tell a flat from a round one? One hook vs two hook trigger - which one and why? Vented or unvented has system? Which and why? I like that lightning bolt. Will that work in a Saiga? I am pretty handy and technically/mechanically minded. I am really digging the idea of converting a Saiga myself, I think it would be a great learning experience and that is half the reason I want an AK type. At the same time, I like to have top of the line stuff. Is it worth it to just buy what I want already done up by a reputable dealer/manufacturer ie: Arsenal etc... or possibly a board member here? Is this the Saiga you guys are starting with to end up with the ones shown above? If I do it myself, who makes quality parts for this project? What companies should I avoid? Any "options" or upgrades to do while I am building vs later down the road? I am more and more intrigued by the 5.45x39 especially when you can get it so cheap, but I have questions.... How do you take care of a rifle shooting corrosive ammo? How long do you have to clean it before you ruin your stick -does it have to be done Instantly, before or after the drive home from the range, do you have a day or two to take care of it? Is it worth the trouble or if I have easy access and a good supply of 5.56 should I just stick with that?

Technically, so are AR15s, AK47s, and AUGs but we are allowed to have BM XM-15s, Saigas, and MSAR STG E4s.... Just wondering if they make a Gilal or a Lilag that may be NJ legal...

I like my ARs very much and I can run them well. I know any AK I get will not replace them in my training, preparedness, or at work. I want one to become familiar with the platform, and because it never hurts to know about other things than what you are most familiar with. If I can set one up more similar to my M4 setups, that's groovy. The more familiar it feels the faster I will be able to run it well and the more benefit I will get out of training with either gun. But I know an AK will never be an AR, and vice versa, and I am OK with that. That's half the reason for this thread!

Good info thanks! Research so far points here - AK Lightning Bolt: http://coloradoshootingsports.safewebshop.com/ak_lightning_bolt_generation_2.html

LOL I don't even know what that means I find your rifle intriguing and wish to subscribe to your newsletter.... I like that. How hard was the conversion to do? Did you do it yourself? Any specialized tools required? I will likely use non-wood furniture and possibly an M4 type stock. Does the Saiga take regular AK mags (pinned to legal capacity) or are Saiga mags proprietary? Right now looks like a Saiga or an Arsenal are the front runners... Anyone have experience with the VZ58 type? It is a bit different from a pure AK but I find it intriguing to say the least. Are there any NJ legal Galil Types? How similar is a Galil to an AK? I would love to end up with something like this: Or this: With NJ legal changes where appropriate of course

What's Facebook?

Not a revolver guy or a southpaw, but didn't Charter make a Lefty Wheelgun? Also, couldn't any of the break open wheelguns be considered lefty friendly as well?

Well, it says civilian marksmanship - so this Cops and non-Cops, and Police Training - so that's Cops only.... Hrm... So I guess that Military personnel are not permitted to shoot there.... since you are neither a civilian or a Cop

I see it.

What was the culprit for the "short stroking" and what was the fix?

TLI, what are those buttons on the pistol grip?

Ok, I am severely lacking in AK knowledge and proficiency. I need to fix that. I have many ARs and am well versed/grounded in that FOW but know nothing about how to choose a quality NJ legal AK variant. I am a big believer in quality gear and I know whatever I end up with I will likely set it up as a social gun with RDS, white light, and sling. What are the pluses and minuses of different variants? VZ58, WASR, PAP, Saiga, etc... Talk to me about caliber offerings? I have a stockpile of 5.56/.223 and an SKS in 7.62x39 with a few hundred rounds stocked. Is it worth it to pick up a new caliber ie: 5.45x39? Should I look for a 5.56 version and call it good or is the 7.62x39/5.45x39 worth it? What are the BCM/Colt/Noveske/LMTs of the AK world? Conversely, what are the brands to avoid? What makes milled receivers better or worse than stamped? What do you need to look for as signs of a quality rifle or as signs of garbage gear? What are must have features/accessories? How are you guys setting up your slings and white lights? How are you mounting a RDS to the rifle? What questions am I not asking because I don't know what I don't know? Keep in mind I am not interested in an M4 vs AK discussion. Thanks in advance!

Ok. Starting a new thread in the AK section.

I just ordered a PRO for my new MSAR E4. Not planning on using BUIS at all. I have been using Aimpont T1, PRO, and M4 for over 4 years now and have never had one crap out. I feel confident with this decision, and if I had AR type rifles that didn't already have a standard FSB I wouldn't add BUIS on them either. If anything I may put a front flip-up and use the Aimpoint tube itself as a large ghost ring for the rear aperture in the event the PRO dies on me. I have done this on ARs in the past during training (preparation in the event the optic goes out and I don't have time to raise the rear BUIS). I have found that even with a lower 1/3 cowitness I was able to get good hits quickly from 15 yards and in.

Don't give up on an SKS, just get one with a fixed mag and you are all set. I was in the same boat. Had 5 ARs and wanted a commie/7.62x39 rifle. Got a nice Chinese SKS with fixed mag from a member here (thanks Wojo) at a great price. It is a fun rifle to shoot, I am glad I got it. I still am wanting an AK pattern rifle. Just looking for the right one now as I don't know much about them at all. I know I need to figure out if I want a 7.62x39, a 5.45x39, or one chambered in 5.56x45. Decisions, decisions, decisions....

2C:39-1. Definitions. The following definitions apply to this chapter and to chapter 58: 2C:39-1w. "Assault firearm" means: SKS with detachable magazine type

You need to center the optic at 1.38" over the rail for a true absolute cowitness and 1.75" over the rail for lower 1/3 cowitness. The Aimpoint PRO QRP mount with the included spacer puts the center of the optic at 1.535" over the rail, roughly an absolute co-witness. Removing the spacer in the QRP mount and putting it on flat top upper will give you a basically useless upper 1/3 cowitness. You can buy aftermarket mounts if you prefer a lower 1/3 co-witness. Photo comparison of absolute co-witness and lower 1/3 co-witness with an Aimpoint T1: Shows how much more of the optic is unobstructed by Irons. The Aimpoint PRO is an excellent choice for a flattop AR. See this thread for more on optic mounts: http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/60940-wow-i-know-nothing-about-rifle-optic-mounts/

I freakin' love drugs like this! All drugs should do this to people and people should be as to do as much drugs as they want with the following conditions: No public assistance, no insurance, no welfare, no medical care (unless you can pay the full amount yourself put of your pocket), you are responsible for any crimes you commit while high and being under the influence becomes an aggravating factor in any crime, you are rendered sterile, and any kids you already have are taken away from you. You can drive until the first time you are caught driving under the influence, then your DL is taken away and the State buys your car from you at market value - less court costs and payments due for any damages caused by your MVA. Agree to these conditions and you are issued ID that says you and do as much drugs as you want and not get arrested. Get caught doing drugs without having agreed to the previous conditions, then your consent to those conditions is implied and then enforced.

Not understanding this? What does a 360degree shooting environment have to do with organizing a "tactical" shooting class?

Wow, $160 for a 4 hour class? I need to start a training company.....

I am really digging the FourSevens lights. If they made an X300U or TLR-1 type light I would buy it. Like I said above, I am a "Surefire guy" but they are pricing themselves out of my budget, and wasting time on stupid gimmicks like that wrist light instead of building lights the community wants at a price they want to pay.

I would send it back to Spikes. That is un-sat. When you call for your RA number make sure you explain the full problem and have them enter it into their system. Also include a written account in the package with your upper referencing your RA #.