High Exposure

I am not a piranha person. I know what a caribe is. Just sayin'

2C:39-1 Definitions v. "imitation firearm" means an object or device reasonably capable of being mistaken for a firearm. 2C:12-1b Aggravated Assault (10) Knowingly points, displays or uses an imitation firearm, as defined in subsection v. of N.J.S.2C:39-1, at or in the direction of a law enforcement officer with the purpose to intimidate, threaten or attempt to put the officer in fear of bodily injury or for any unlawful purpose; or (11) Uses or activates a laser sighting system or device, or a system or device which, in the manner used, would cause a reasonable person to believe that it is a laser sighting system or device, against a law enforcement officer acting in the performance of his duties while in uniform or exhibiting evidence of his authority. As used in this paragraph, "laser sighting system or device" means any system or device that is integrated with or affixed to a firearm and emits a laser light beam that is used to assist in the sight alignment or aiming of the firearm. 2C:39-4: Possession of Weapon for Unlawful Purposes (e) Imitation firearms. Any person who has in his possession an imitation firearm under circumstances that would lead an observer to reasonably believe that it is possessed for an unlawful purpose is guilty of a crime of the fourth degree. 2C:39-5: Unlawful Possession of Weapons e(3) Any person who knowingly has in his possession any imitation firearm in or upon any part of the buildings or grounds of any school, college, university or other educational institution, without the written authorization of the governing officer of the institution, or while on any school bus is a disorderly person, irrespective of whether he possesses a valid permit to carry a firearm or a valid firearms purchaser identification card.

Go to Tropiquarium in Ocean Twp on Rt 35. That place is awesome. They will have everything you will need and the employees are super helpful. They will be able to answer any questions you may have.

Sure they do. It is up to the judge to decide.

You have 30 days. Go to the local PD with the date, time, location and plate. They will help you pick the statute. If you truly feel that he was acting wrong, ask to speak to a supervisor regarding a citizen complaint and associated internal investigation. For the record, it is proper for the Cop to sign the complaint as a Cop even off duty and especially in the jurisdiction he works in.

Same here

First of all make sure you get a true mil spec receiver extension. Receiver extensions built to Commercial spec dimensions are significantly weaker. Here is a quick diagram that explains it better and faster than I can: Also, the $50 kit is likely not only mil spec dimensions but also mil spec materials and construction process as well, making it even stronger. The receiver extension is an important part of the system. If that part fails you have nothing but a weird looking club... My advice, buy a true mil spec kit from a reputable company like BCM, Ranier Arms, etc...

Just FYI, Carbon on the bolt tail is no big deal and you can actually do more damage to the bolt cleaning it too enthusiastically than the carbon itself will ever do. A quick spritz of some of the cleaner of your choice and a wipe with a rag relatively soon after shooting will suffice for function and reliability purposes.

That is silly. A TDP/Mil-Spec M4 is spec'ed to be 4 MOA. Most .223/5.56 ammo is spec'ed to be anywhere from 3-10 MOA. Not to mention I don't know many shooters that are consistent 1 MOA shooters. Not to mention that if I put a red dot in front of your eye you couldn't discern the difference between a 1 MOA dot and a 2 MOA or a 2 MOA and a 4 MOA. The 4 MOA and 2 MOA dots on Aimpoints are more than adequate for use on a carbine and in my opinion are preferred on a social gun. If you want to make the Aimpoint's dot a more precise aiming point, there are tricks for that as well - such as turning the dot down in brightness to the lowest visible setting and choosing the edge of the dot at 12 o'clock as your aiming point. Aimpoint in a lower 1/3 cowitness is hands down the way to go.

2C:39-1. Definitions. The following definitions apply to this chapter and to chapter 58: 2C:39-1w. "Assault firearm" means: 2C:39-1w(3): A semi-automatic shotgun with either a magazine capacity exceeding six rounds, a pistol grip, or a folding stock.

Ouch Bowie is not the only guy to do that kind of work, he is just one of the most well known. Because of that his wait times are very long. If you look, you will find others that can, and do, the same work at the same level of quality. Probably even some people fairly local.

Shoot, now I want to do it. If I can get a FDE frame, I am going to send my original frame to Bowie to get chopped and add a magwell...

Hey, no complaints on the Magpul gear. I have Magpul MOE handguards on three of my ARs - two carbine length and one midlength. They get the job done, are inexpensive, well made, low weight, well though out, and have excellent direct mount accessories that let me put what I want, where I want it. If all you are putting on a rifle is a light and a vert grip the MOE handguards are really all you need and at under $30 are an excellent value while not being cheaply made. I have abused my MOE handguards and they have not failed me yet. I also have Daniel Defense Omega Rails on two others - one 7" carbine rail and one 9" midlength rail on guns that require more "stuff" on them that needs to be zeroed (and stay zeroed) and free-floated. They are also excellent value as they are stupid easy to install, relatively inexpensive and high quality. Yes, the DD rails cost more than UTG (or other cheap/low quality) rails that allegedly "do the same thing". I will gladly pay the premium for the peace of mind that my laser will remain zeroed, my rail will not shift, my barrel is truly free floated so my sling tension and stabilizing on cover won't affect my accuracy, and my rail won't break, while using my gear hard in real life. There is nothing much more embarrassing than a SWAT guy going back through a target house after the team has cleared and the investigators/detectives are conducting the inventory/investigation to pick up his gear when the budget rails on his rifle gave up the ghost in the target house and he had a "yard sale" while searching a bedroom for an armed bad guy. We call him JAG now - because "Hey, it is Just As Good"

Not at all. Like I said, the magwell will take up the slack and the 19 isn't as small as the 26. http://www.bowietacticalconcepts.com/servicesandshipping.html Bowie charges $70 for the work....

One photo I found of a 34 chopped to 19. I think it looks pretty cool..... The more I think about it the more this seems like the answer for you from a concealability, shootability, and capacity standpoint. The short concealable grip and the legal 15 round capacity of the 19 with the long slide and shootability of the 34. Win win win!

Or.... You could just go .40 I know , I know. Anyway, I have been thinking and I came up with an out of the box solution.... Get the grip on a 17/34 chopped to take G19 mags. You will go from 5.43" to 4.99" losing 0.44" on the grip, but with the addition of a magwell you can make that up. And, I bet the grip chop would cost less than permanently altering a bunch of mags to make them NJ legal. It would also most likely be more reliable using Glock OEM mags instead of altered ones as well...

Fair enough, and you are right. Not everyone needs top of the line gear. I get that. As usual, my advice is given from the perspective of being used hard and the gear I recommend to anyone is going to be the same gear I would select for myself. Either way, folks are going to get the gear that does what they need it to do that they can afford. Whether they are paying for gear that is the lowest price or best value is an important distinction, and falls under the heading of "buy once, cry once". Cops are notoriously cheap, as such I see a lot of cheap gear bought on the premise that "it's as just as good as...." whatever quality gear that they don't want to pay for. I rarely see most of this gear last very long before it needs to be replaced. UTG items, rails specifically, are some of the more common items I see. They are typically out of spec and made of cheap metal that the mil-spec 1913 mounts won't mount to and often breaks under light to moderate use. I have seen VTAC light mounts, which are plastic, break off a chunk of UTG rail after hitting a door jam in training. I have seen UTG gear self disassemble under recoil. Your UTG gear may be a good example, or you may have not yet used it past it's potential. Personally I demand gear that will stand up to hard use because I need it too.

UTG makes airsoft quality gear from inferior materials. Using their products on a real firearm is a crapshoot.

I thought he meant "Blue Guns" as in Ring's Blue guns: http://www.blueguns.com/default.asp? - inert training aids made of solid rubber/plastic that are the exact dimensions and similar weight of the real firearm they are modeled after, sometimes called a "Rubber Duck" in Military training circles. I have also seen them made in grey, red, black and orange plastic, as well as some that are painted to be realistic. In fact the ones I use are red and are made by ASP, the expandable baton company, but I strangely still refer to them as blue guns Blue guns are not a mandatory training aid as long as you strictly follow the first rule of firearms safety. However they typically do not have true sights or the provision to pull the trigger so are useless for training trigger control or presentations from a holster. They do shine in a few roles such as: - Defensive tactics training like weapon retention, ground fighting, weapon takeaways, handcuffing, etc... - Tactical training scenarios where you would need to routinely break Firearm Safety Rule #2 and point a gun at a training partner, role player, or instructor - Teaching new techniques to shooters in a classroom environment that doesn't necessarily have a true "Safe Direction" - Teaching large groups of students where repeatedly checking everyone's weapon condition and searching folks for the presence of ammo is time prohibitive I also use a blue gun when teaching whenever I am doing a demonstration of any manipulations or TTPs to my students. I know I don't like being sweeped by a gun that I haven't personally checked and I'll be damned if I am going to do that to someone else. If you are training alone at home, the strict adherence to Firearm Safety Rule #1: Always treat every gun as of it is loaded until you verify that it is not/always know the condition of your weapon, should suffice. Dry firing is useful for practicing basic presentation and sight picture along with trigger control. While there are dedicated dry fire training guns out there (the red Glock 17R or the new SIRT gns for example) Most folks - me included - use their real gun after ensuring that there is no ammo in their training area, and then double, triple, and quadruple checked that there is no ammo in their training area. And then check again... You get the idea. Some folks use snap caps, I do not (with a single caveat - do not dry fire a rim fire gun without a snap cap as you may damage it). I just use an empty chamber and train what I want to train. You can accomplish a lot with a solid dry fire training program, but you can also really mess yourself up and give yourself some pretty bad habits. My advice is attend training under the watchful eye of a reputable firearms trainer then go home and practice what you learned. Again make sure you have NO AMMMO IN THE TRAINING AREA - this includes the firearm and any and all magazines you may be using - and a safe backstop just in case. Remember, just about everyone who has ever been accidentally shot in training was shot with an "unloaded" gun. Don't be a statistic.

Lol - you are probably right... He is still a tool bag, but hey, even a busted clock is right twice a day.

Holeeeeee SH!T I actually agree with Yeager.....

Correct Shane! Thanks. If you remove the spacer when mounting to an AR flat top upper you will move the cowitness location to the UPPER 1/3 of the glass. Meaning that only the top 1/3 of your optic will be unobstructed by your BUIS. You will run into similar problems mounting the PRO without its spacer on any firearm with a large difference between line of sight and line of bore. The removal of the spacer is appropriate for the mounting to a shotgun (depending on the stock), mini-14, lever gun, etc... Basically any firearm that has it's sights directly on or very close to the line of bore/barrel, or something like an AK or MP5 where the height over bore is already compensated for by placing any rails rail on top of the gas system which sits above the line of bore/barrel.

I don't have my PRO handy, it's on the work rifle, but I think the spacer that comes with an Aimpoint PRO puts it closer to an absolute co-witness than a lower 1/3. The Aimpoint PRO QRP mount spacer puts the center of the optic at like ~1.4" over the rail. You need to center the optic at 1.38" over the rail for absolute cowitness and 1.75" over the rail for lower 1/3 cowitness. Removing the spacer in the QRP mount and putting it on flat top upper will give you a basically useless upper 1/3 cowitness.

Photo comparison of absolute co-witness and lower 1/3 co-witness: Shows how much more of the optic is unobstructed by Irons.

I have a DD Omega 7 (I think that is the rail that Jon is talking about) on my issued SBR COLT R0933. It is an easy install that requires ZERO disassembly of anything in your upper except the removal of the existing handguards, and allows complete free float of the rail enabling it to mount lasers, optics and slings without affecting accuracy. Good peice of gear.