High Exposure

They always come back bro. Always.

Above is the S&T training schedule. Shotgun is October 1.

In my opinion - step one is to get to a quality training course with a reputable instructor that can show you the initial methods to deploy the shotgun properly. I highly recommend Joe Reidy at Sights & Trigger in Bethlehem, PA. His shotgun class is an excellent value, close by, and a requires a reasonable round count. You’ll use target loads to learn, your chosen “duty” ammo to verify, and slugs at distance out to 100 yards to build confidence. That being said - the hardest part of running a shotgun is keeping it fed. Once you are trained on the proper manipulations, you’ll probably get the best return on practice time by getting some quality dummy rounds and practicing loading and manipulating the gun and shells coupled with dry fire. The mechanics of actually shooting are no different than any other long gun. Line up sights and move the trigger straight to the rear without disturbing the sight. With live fire at the range, use cardboard or the plastic sheets @Scorpio64 was talking about. Paper sucks by itself - however it is useful to face the cardboard/plastic backer for a clean target when patterning. It is paramount that you pattern your gun with the ammo you plan on using and at ranges that are appropriate for your needs. You need to know what your gun does with your ammo at the ranges you will likely deploy it. Unpopular Opinion - Clays are an excellent way to test yourself, and it’s tons of fun, but it doesn’t translate very well to “tactical” or HD application.

An “Other Firearm” is based on a Federal definition describing a configuration of certain parts that meet a very specific set of criteria - for a “Short Barrel Firearm/SBF” - most notably, and as covered above ad nauseam: • A receiver that was never transferred as an “other” and not a rifle, pistol, machine gun, AOW, or SBR, and has never had a stock installed - Note: you can not convert an existing rifle to an SBF and the requirement is to not have a stock, NOT to install a brace. • A minimum length of 26” at its shortest possible length - that means bare receiver extension with brace removed, and, if so equipped, with any folding mechanism folded. • The presence of a forward vertical grip indicating the firearm was designed to be fired using two hands. Manufacturer/Brand does not matter as long as the firearm conforms to the above. An “Other Firearm” or “SBF” is NOT an SBR or AOW and does not require: • Federal registration and approval • Engraving of the lower • Permission to bring to another state • Tax Stamps, fees, or other paperwork

Yeah. I kept putting it off. That was stupid.

Nice. I was bummed when they went out of business and I hadn’t grabbed the PC I wanted.

@Krdshrk - Is that coyote carrier an old school USPALM?

We don’t have a PCC/sub-gun/pistol conversion section, so I will put this here. Very interesting concept from the IWA 2022 trade show in Germany. I think it would be a big seller in the states. The Norlite USK-G Glock Carbine Conversion:

He posts good stuff. If you follow him on IG, he puts out lots of mindset stuff using case study and Visio from real world violent encounters that I find very interesting. Sometimes he gets a little preachy, and can come off as condescending, but upon reflection, he’s usually right and I am just being a little bitch because he perfectly nailed a shortcoming I have and it touched a nerve.

/ thread

The 50oz weight limit is one of the “evil features” for a handgun. You can have two features before your handgun is considered an “assault weapon” - at which point it becomes prohibited in NJ. So, yes, you can be over 50oz as long you don’t have too many other “evil features”. https://nj.gov/njsp/firearms/pdf/062408_title13ch54.pdf N.J.A.C. 13:54-1.2 Definitions Semi-automatic handguns that have the ability to accept a detachable magazine and at least two of the following features: • Magazine that attaches outside of the pistol grip. • Threaded barrel • Barrel shroud • Manufactured weight of 50oz or more when the pistol is unloaded • Semi-automatic version of an automatic firearm Nobody reads anymore. Everyone panics.

Everyone is getting wrapped around the axle on this unnecessarily. Along with the overall length and VFG requirements, to be classified as an other firearm it simply can’t have a stock. Nowhere does it say that it has to have a brace. @PK90, @Krdshrk, @Mr.Stu, @JackDaWackare right and giving good advice. Don’t be ruled by fear. If the time comes, make your decisions based on knowledge.

The statute also doesn’t say they will use a pinky, measurement, or mathematical equation to determine what the device is. What features make a device a brake vs a comp vs a hider? Again, I can use the same rifle with the same device and get two different flash signatures simply by using different ammo. If you are buying unbranded no-name devices to save a few bucks, you’ll have to roll the dice. That’s on the buyer. I also never understood the allure of dropping $1k on a rifle, another $300 on optics and light, and buying a shit brake (or other component) to put on it so you save $50. Seems counter productive to me. Like buying a $5k 1911 and carrying it in an unbranded $10 gun show special holster. At the end of the day, there is no codified definition for any device type. You can only do what your comfortable with. I am comfortable with using the manufacturers description. If I ever have an issue I will point to that and say - “I followed the law and purchased a brake/comp” - or even a hider if it’s on an appropriate platform.

Why? What makes the diameter of the exit hole in respect to the caliber a flash hider or not? If I put a muzzle device for a .308 on a 5.56 rifle, what happens? Is it now a brake or a hider? What about a .50 cal device? No clue. I’ve never bought a device that wasn’t from a major manufacturer that had a product description that made my device legal for the platform I was installing it on. That seems foolish for a lot of reasons - firstly being legality. Secondly, I’m not buying cheap crap from an unknown source/manufacturer. Beat me to it.

Ok. Whose pinky do we use? It is always the same persons pinky? Do they have hands like Shaq? Or hands like a 12 year old Swedish girl? Is the pinky calibrated to caliber the gun is chambered in? If so, how? If my pinky fits, and yours does not, what is it - brake or hider?

Understood, and as I have said, take advice here as worth what you paid for it. Any gun in NJ can cost you time and money. That being said, the company’s intent and description of the item is going to be weighted a little higher than your opinion. In my mind it’s similar to making the argument that a 10 round .40 Glock 23 mag is illegal because you can fit 12 9mm rounds in it and the mag will function in a G19.

Pinky test is urban legend. Whatever the manufacturer designs the device to be (hider/break/comp) and whatever features they decide to advertise when selling it, is what it is. If it is called a brake or a compensator and the product description doesn’t mention “flash reduction” than it is merely a brake/comp. There is no threshold for the measurement of the reduction of any “flash” to make something legal or illegal in NJ. Even if there was, there is not even a “flash standard” to measure it against. I can fire ten rounds through the same rifle and get ten different flash signatures. Ultimately, ammo selection and barrel length has a lot more to do with reducing flash than the device at the end of the barrel.

You should have to work to make the dot be on your front sight. By that I mean you should have to raise the pistol, or lower your head, or angle the slide, or somehow alter your shooting position to get everything to line up. In a normal presentation, the dot should be centered in your window. Your irons should be at the bottom 1/3 (or lower). If your irons take up 1/2 your window, you have the wrong set of irons and you are defeating the purpose of having the dot in the first place. Your dot should float above your front sight, but if you line up your irons, it should be *near* your front sight tip with a standard iron sight sight picture.

Uhhhh…. Guys… come here real quick… You’re not going to believe this but…. That’s exactly what you’re supposed to do with the dot. It’s a target focused sighting system - just like a red dot on a rifle. The whole benefit of the system is you now have only one focal plane - the target - you know where your eyes are going to be anyway in a DPF situation - locked on the threat. As opposed to iron sights where you have 3 focal planes to cycle through as your eyes sprint from the target, to the rear sight, to the front sight and repeat ad-naseum. As to co-witness - you should be able to see your irons through the window, but the dot isn’t necessarily going to be exactly on your front sight if you get a sight picture through your irons. That’s OK. DO NOT adjust the dot so your dot sits on top of or bisects your front sight. Your dot should be zeroed separately from your irons. You should not be lining up your irons and your dot together for your sight picture. Pretend your irons aren’t there.

I always wanted one too. I grabbed an MSAR from a member here. Love it. If you can find one, the Steyr USR is NJ legal and can be made AUG stock correct. I was looking forward to the Australian AUG A3 clone that was supposed to be imported, as it too would have been NJ legal, but they decided not to bring it here for some reason…..

Tell her you’ll keep it under the mattress…