M1152

You have a couple of different wireless technologies in play. You could have wireless exchange between the panel and zones and from the panel to the Monitoring station. The old way the system reported to the Monitoring station was over the phone line, now mostly everyone connects their system with either IP (Internet Protocol) or Cellular or both, we opted for the IP Bat or CBAT which is a Dual Path and does both IP and cellular. if IP fails it will revert to cellular, or you could connect it without and internet connection and it will always connect with cellular. The CBAT does all the Phone App stuff but I don’t care about phone apps. The CBAT It connects to the keyboard terminals (four wires) and to the Telco connection (two wires), it works very well with Honeywell systems… Each wireless zone has its own battery which could be either alkaline or lithium (depending on the device) which gets changed every two years or so. In the Honeywell Vista panels the batteries devices are supervised and will let the panel know it’s time to change them. It will show up on the keypad and if programmed your monitoring company will notify you as well. With Honeywell Vista panels wireless zones could communicate with the panel with either an add-on transmitter installed at the panel or a wired keypad with RF capability. The Vista panels (like most other panels) has its own battery back up in case of power loss, generally you stick a 12Volt 4 to 7 AH (AH=Amp hour) battery in the panel. How long it last is on battery back-up one of those YMMV deals based on the load such as hardwired keypads and hardwired motions battery AH and so on. If you have power issues in your area you could always add a cheap UPS to your alarm’s power supply, that would basically double your battery backup capability. I’m not a professional but I have installed a few of the old Ademco panels over the years and I just installed to two Honeywell Vista 20P series system over the summer. Honeywell purchased Ademco a few years back. I like the Honeywell systems, they make great stuff and could be monitored by ANY UL Listed Monitoring Company which means you could shop around if needed when your monitor contract runs out. Otherwise if you buy a proprietary system you are locked-in with the company that sold it to you for monitoring.

brain fart I guess, correct Finn not Swiss LOL. I have the M44 and M91/30 which are both very common. The M38 is a nice looking rifle as well

Don’t know where to buy them in NJ but could be purchased online and sent to your favorite ffl. The M91/30 are the most popular and cheapest and come with either a rounded or hex receivers. Some people prefer the hex over the round receiver. The Swiss Mosin’s are supposedly best and are most costly. Personally I like the M44 carbine, they could be had for about $50 more than the M91/30

How does the new steam system it know when to turn on & off? When I see these units I can’t help from thinking yes sure it shoots water or steam into the ductwork but what happens when the heater shuts down? Does the steam (water) just drop off in the duct work and lay there or do the newer steam unit have some intelligence and know to shutdown prior to the end of the heater run so all the moisture gets pushed out? I had the old mist style you described but it ended up failing and it went out with my old furnace. I now have the floor/room units now as well.

Good job, looks nice & symmetrical.

Got it, I contacted the FFL to give up a heads-up that “one” would be inbound once my permit clears. Afterwards I spoke to my friend and he expressed an interest in the same gun so this is only an afterthought at this point.. I would certainly let our FFL know before attempting this, I don’t think he appreciates surprises and nor do I. I just threw this out here to see if this is acceptable before I even call him back to ask him. It may be perfectly legal but he may decline and we will have to accept it. Thanks for your replies, in the meantime just playing the NJ permit waiting game for now. Have a great weekend

Would this be acceptable or otherwise known as NJ Legal? I’m going to purchase a new handgun from online retailer which I have done previously so kind of know the drill there. Here’s the twist, a friend wants to buy the same gun so could I buy & pay for both and have friend reimburse me afterwards. Then have the purchase shipped to local FFL and have FFL transfer one each to both of us? Should be good, correct?

I’m a Firefox user and I haven’t been able to seen comments on nj.com for over year. In my case I attribute it to one of the extensions like noscript or adblock. That said its odd that you can't see it with IE, if I use IE I could see everything including at the ads but I opt not to use IE, I only use IE on sites that don’t work with FF such as a bank site or vendor's online shopping cart

Thanks for posting, very informative. As a result of the post I looked into the kit a little further and just purchased it for my S&W 642. As you know the factory setup could definitely use some help.

Thanks guys, just wanted to make sure

Would the Troy Rear Folding BattleSight work with flattop lower and standard Tower front sight base? Basically I would like to know if it’s interchangeable with the Magpul MBUS in regards to front sight post heights. Thank you in advance

yes, kind of looks like the PSL. here's the specs http://www.zastava-arms.rs/en/militaryproduct/sniper-rifle-m91 I think if I wanted 7.62x54r I would probably opt for the Vepr

And the same to you and fellow NJGF members. Have a Safe and Happy one!

Exactly, well said! Linux is pretty much bullet proof when it comes to malware. The only issue we had was when I installed it was my nephew’s family system, they have one of those All-in-one printers and Ubuntu would print but no support for the scanner. So after a short run I ended up rolling them back to Windows so they could use the scanner.

Chill out dude, I didn’t come here to argue. I just gave Original Poster two cheap choices if he still has “good hardware” and assuming he has 2 to 4 GB of ram and wanted to save a few bucks. Now if just wants to move to a laptop and ditch the desktop that’s another story… Just to review there is NO upgrade path from Window XP to Windows 7, only a “clean install” option to Windows 7 from XP. If the OP wanted to do an in place upgrade from XP to Vista he would just need the correct x86 or x64 OS Upgrade disc. Personally I would do a clean install no matter now matter what disc I had. Now if the OP wanted to just go straight to Win7 he would need to purchase the FULL version and not an UPGRADE version which means offloading his files, wiping the drive and installing the OS and then reloading his programs and files which you failed to mention your rant. As far as the UAC prompts you don’t have to be an I.T. wizard to know how to shut the prompts off and with regards to a performance Windows systems can be tweaked fairly easy just but disabling a few services that are not needed in a workgroup or standalone environment, but hey if you want to run yours in the “out of the box” configuration without the tweaking that’s your call. We are running Vista here on one desktop since 2007 with Office 2010 and still going strong. I also have a Win7 system and again pretty much identical performance. Just to clarify Vista and Win7 may be a little different under the hood but they are more the same than different. For example if you were in a business environment that supported Vista, Windows 7 and Windows 8, Windows Server 2008 and Windows Server 2012 ALL could be installed using Windows Deployment Services, so again they are more alike than different My replies are not because I Love Vista, my reply was just to give the OP a few cheap choices. As I said it my first post (which you clearly blew off) is I’d like to see more people that only require the basics like web-mail, web, and basic printing take a look at Linux, especially on older hardware that might be on its why out the door, they may be pleasantly surprised. It could be a way to pump new life into an older system that someone may think is now obsolete. Linux Mint or Ubuntu are very cool and elegant operating systems but I see you didn’t have any negative commentary there so I’ll take that as a plus, LOL.

If your hardware is good why not just upgrade it? You could probably pick up a Vista upgrade off eBay or Amazon for about $50. Vista is supported until April 2017 and is pretty much the same as Windows 7 so $50 could buy you another 2 years. Or if you are not married to Windows consider Ubuntu (Linux) for free. Ubuntu has its own version of an Office suite and is a great OS. The only issue with Linux is sometimes it could be difficult finding drivers for some devices like scanners and a small percentage of printers. You could always download Ubuntu and use the “Try it” option which lets you run it from the DVD without installing it. If you like it install it, it you don't like it toss the DVD.

Just saying whatever configuration and notification method that works for you... In other words do you want all the bells & whistles or a barebone or basic system, that’s your call. Again congrads on the home

whatever works for you....

Also consider an Alarm system with which is obviously for burglary but get one such as the Honeywell Vista series that could also monitor for FIRE, carbon monoxide and water in basement if desired. You could start with Fire/Burglary and add the other components later. If you are a DIY guy and can install it yourself but if not whatever you buy make sure it is an “industry standard system” and could be monitored by any UL Listed Central station. Don’t get a proprietary system that could only be monitored a single company. In fact you just make it a local only and not be monitored but I would not suggest that, plus if you are monitored you receive a small Insurance discount. If someone installs it for you make sure they give you the installer code which is different from master user code. Good luck and congrads on being a home owner

Take a look on eBay you could probably get two for $7 shipped if that works for you

has this one been discussed? Proposed New Jersey Gun Law A3931 Title: Revises procedures for securing a permit to carry a handgun. Subject: Law and Public Safety Description: Revises procedures for securing a permit to carry a handgun. Session: 2014-2015 Regular Session Last Action: Introduced, Referred to Assembly Law and Public Safety Committee Last Action Date: December 4, 2014 Link: http://www.njleg.state.nj.us/bills/BillView.asp?BillNumber=A3931 Companion Bill: S1287

Mosin–Nagant 91/30

Yep that’s why I suggested spoofing the old mac address. Sota is right but for whatever reason it may be a little harder that than that to break the dhcp lease, at least in my experience. I run dd-wrt and every couple of months I’ll toggle between routers to test latest firmware builds. On a few occasions in the past I couldn’t reconnect I and I had call tech support to get them to break the lease. Since that experience now I just spoof the mac and could toggle between routers with no problems

I see, so it picked up the correct mac of the device that was connected. I wish I could be of more help. Just to clarify "spoofing the mac" is probably named “MAC Address Clone” or something similar, it may be worth a shot in this case. That said if the modem is rebooting with the new router connected that don't sound good regardless of what the case is. EDIT: so much for what is named, looks like Asus calls it "Special Requirement from ISP", got it from another Asus router manual. if you want to spoof the mac with your old router's mac of 38:6b:bb:15:a6:5b see if the path below will get you there.. Go to Advanced Setting > WAN > Internet Connection tab, then scroll down to the section labeled Special Requirement from ISP and enter your old mac address

if you have the Asus NT-66 plugged it looks like the modem *may* still may be seeing the Motorola, that first mac address in the log its for Motorola 386BBB Motorola Mobility, Inc. http://www.coffer.com/mac_find/ Do you have internet access with the new modem, or just a wireless connection? I'd still try spoofing the mac into the new router or resetting the modem to recognize the new mac