TCinJ

Nope. I will refrain from telling who the dealer is because I don't know whether this is standard practice or not. It just doesn't really make sense to me. And who knows, maybe they hang out here and I'll tick them off and be put at the bottom of the pile. The fact that they are still looking for a distributor with one in stock tells me that the price they quoted me was high - which guaranteed them a lot of profit. That's fine, as I agreed to the price and knew it would be more than an intarweb dealer. I guess I'm just upset because if I am paying more, I expect to get the item in a timely manner.

OK - so I order a gun from a local dealer about 2 weeks ago. I check with them today and they tell me that they are "still looking for a distributor that has one in stock". Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? They gave me a price, took the order, took my money and two weeks later the gun isn't on it's way? Is this standard practice with gun dealers? How can they quote me a price without knowing where they will be buying the firearm from? I've got three purchase permits with expiration dates. I expected to be picking up the firearm after two weeks, not being told that they are still trying to locate one! I wanted to give a local business my money, and I paid a bit more than mail order (yes, counting the FFL transfer fee) to do so. But if I had ordered by mail, I would have had the firearm already and a few bucks more in my pocket. Am I over reacting? Is this how it goes? The last gun I bought was back in the early nineties and I bought one that was in stock. Have times changed or what?

I went with the Simmons 3x9-32 - thanks for all the suggestions!

I voted for the Ruger MKII - MKIII The biggest complaint is that they are hard to disassemble and reassemble. In reality, it isn't that difficult once you get the hang of it. (but it is more difficult than say a S&W 22A) I've never had major problems with any of the Rugers I've used with cheap bulk ammo. Couple of FTE's here and there and a rare missed fire which is par for the course with rimfires I am told.

Hey folks, just ordered a Marlin 60DLX and was looking for suggestions on an inexpensive but decent scope for it. It is going to be used for recreational target shooting and plinking around.

I'm a stone's throw from PA so I'll just hop over the bridge and buy one there. Would have been nice to click "checkout" and have it shipped to my lazy a$$ though....... After living most of my life here in NJ, I'm looking forward to leaving this state when the kids are out of school. It's not just the gun laws, it is the high taxes, government waste, etc. *sigh*

NJ treats a BB gun exactly like they treat a .50 Cal Desert Eagle. With those types of laws, I'm surprised they allow magazines of any kind.......

I was looking to buy a Crosman 2100 BB rifle to replace my worn out 30 year old 760. Was searching on the intarwebs and an Amazon link came up. Price looked good, I was logged in to Amazon and the "add to cart" button was present. Since I was logged in, they know I live in Nazi NJ - so I took a chance and clicked "add to cart". No problem! I now have this "weapon" in my shopping cart. But when I go to check out, it bombs out and says that they cannot ship this item to Nazi NJ. I wonder if I can just send it to my friend in PA as a gift and pick it up from her. This state is ridiculous.

I think if you cannot be disqualified for a FID card, and you've taken the firearms safety course, you should be able to carry. It's that simple. Leaving it up to your local police chief is almost as bad as the current law. I wonder ow many CCW permits were issued in 2011 to people who weren't armed guards or former LEO. My guess is ZERO.

I'll be sure to let you guys know. He knows some people in the NJSP and is trying to get them to pull some strings - but I doubt he'll get it.

Ruger SR9 (got one on order) Ruger SR22 pistol (looks like a fun plinker) Sig P226 Two Tone 9mm Sig P226 Classic 22 Marlin 60 Deluxe 50th Anniv. model

I think OweBahMah is just pressing the accelerator down on the "socialism train" that we've been on for the last several decades or so. Too many takers and not enough makers in this society. Both parties are to blame, as both seem to be controlled by liberal progressives. Collect your guns, ammo and invest in precious metals. I don't think the chit will hit the fan, but we will see Carter era inflation in the near future.

Apparently, digital fingerprinting is required if you haven't had it done already. It is done by a company called Safran MorphoTrak. They are located on Parkway Ave, a little before the CVS pharmacy if you're headed towards West Trenton. Lucky for me to be so close to one of their offices. A son of a co-worker (who also lives in Ewing) applied for a NJ CCW. Jack pretty much told him he was wasting his time, but he processed the paperwork anyway. That was probably a couple of weeks after I applied. He should be getting his rejection letter shortly......

Update: I picked up my permits from the PD last week. So from start to finish (including a 2 week electronic fingerprinting appt. delay) a little over 6 weeks. Minus the two weeks for fingerprinting, it's 4 weeks. And remember this was during the Christmas and New Year's holidays. All I can say is kudos to Jack Bryden at the Ewing PD for taking care of business pronto and being super nice too! I should be picking up my new Ruger SR9 shortly, and my brother will be giving me his Ruger MKII (stainless target model) because he doesn't use it much any more. That'll leave me with one more to burn - but I'll probably let it expire unless something else catches my eye. Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions!

Aren't Daisy BB guns made in America? A Daisy "Red Ryder" would make a great gift. (you'll shoot your eye out kid!!)

I don't have anything special, just a Seiko 5 automatic mechanical and a russian made "orion" brand mechanical that is a skeleton watch where you can see the innards. I also have a 70's Bulova accutron watch that uses a tuning fork to keep time. You can hear it hum if you listen closely. My dad gave it to me, said they were all the rage in the 70's as electronic watches were rapidl yreplacing mechanicals. Now mechanicals are back in style. (and LED digitals) Go figure.......

ROFLMFAO!!! That map is hilarious!

Got a n00b question - "tupperware" = polymer frame?

Looks like a nice 'vette! One of the reasons why I try and do all work is to make sure it is done right. When I rebuilt the tranny on my minivan, I spent several hundred dollars in special tools required to do the job. I did end up saving some money on the job even after paying a garage to R&R the old tranny, but I knew the job was done correctly. Last time I had a trans rebuilt by a shop, it had to go back twice before they got it right -and even then, I didn't trust the car anymore. Looks like subaru's are pretty popular here. I drive a 2005 Forester provided by my company. It's never given me trouble. It has 115K on it now and I think it's time for a timing belt and water pump. It doesn't look too difficult but that belt must be pretty long with the boxer engine configuation.

I'm not a firearms expert, but a .22 is cheap fun and a starting point for the beginner. I am in a similar situation as you are, although I do have a little experience. (jr. rifleman's club in high school and just plinkin' around with my dad back in the day) I'm looking a the Marlin 60, Marlin 795 and Ruger 10/22 for rifles, and the Ruger Mark III 22/45, S&W 22A, and Sig P226 Classic 22 for semi auto pistols. For the rifle, the Marlin's are inexpensive and accurate, while the Ruger 10/22 is more expensive - there are lots of aftermarket upgrades available. For the pistols, the Mark III and S&W are a lot less expensive than the P226, but the Sig P226 can be converted to a 9mm, .40 S&W or .357 - so you can train on cheaper than dirt .22's. There are a lot more choices available, but these are the ones that the shops have been recommending and it looks like you can't go wrong with any of them. You can trade in and try others in the future. Your first certainly won't be your last.

That would be the "less than three" or the "four to five" category. I think most leases nowadays are 36 months to keep the payments low low low. And you get the "best years" out of the vehicle as nothing should go wrong within 36 months! That would probably qualify as the "where's the hood release" repair option. Ahhhhhh - the smell of a new car. Haven't enjoyed that for 11 years........ A rattle can camo paint job on a Prizm would be interesting......... I generally keep them for as long as possible, but a major repair (trans or internal engine work) when it has over 150K will cause me to ditch them. Like I mentioned before, I maintain my cars like an aircraft. Normal wear and tear items like alternators, water pumps, fuel pumps, hoses, belts and batteries get replaced before they fail. I just sold a 1994 minivan with 210,000 miles to a lucky guy who will take advantage of the alternator, starter, radiator, water pump, fuel pump and every single belt and hose that were installed at 200,000 miles. I just didn't need the van anymore, but it drove like brand new. No leaks, squeaks or rattles. I also do things like head gaskets, bearings, oil pumps, and rebuilding transmissions. But the last transmission I rebuilt (from the junkyard) was installed by a garage since I'm getting older and can't muscle things around by myself like I could when I was younger. The Pathfinder was my brothers and he gave it to me a few years ago. I maintained it for him since new, so it is in good shape. At this point (180K) I'd have to think real hard if the transmission went or if the engine puked a piston or something. I do make sure my beaters look fine. No dents, no rust holes - just old. Looking at the poll, it seems a lot of us think alike!

I was working on my old Nissan Pathfinder all day yesterday and a minor repair turned into a lot of work. It started out as a squealing belt. No problem, I got a set of belts and when I was installing them I noticed that the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) was loose and wobbling. So the squealing belt was, in fact, the harmonic balancer. No problem. Off comes the radiator, and the fan to pull the harmonic balancer. But hey, it has 180,000 miles on it - I should replace the timing belt while I've got everything apart. So off comes accessory brackets and the timing belt covers. Hmmmmm - the water pump should probably be replaced too because if it fails, I have to remove the timing belt to access it. So off with the water pump! All in all, I replaced: Belts Hoses Radiator (old one corroded but not leaking, yet) Harmonic balancer Timing belt Timing belt tensioner Water pump Thermostat Alternator (it was the original, working but what the heck - it was cheap) All the parts ran under $500 and I think the truck is all set for the winter. My wife was teasing me saying that I keep cars around too long, but I do all repairs and like not having any car payments. She doesn't care as long as they don't break down and leave her stranded. (that's why I tend to replace things before they go bad - think airplane maintenance.....) In any case - how long do you keep them and do you fix 'em yourself?

Is the 795 a model 60 with a detachable magazine instead of a tubular magazine? I was looking at both of them on the Marlin web site and both look like good quality, inexpensive plinkers. Would the box magazine be preferable in this type of gun? The reason I ask is that I have a 50's era Winchester model 77 with box magazine and I was told that the model 77 with tubular magazine was worth more and is more sought after by collectors. I would imagine that the removable magazine is preferable because you can have several pre-loaded clips rather than having to reload the tubular mag. The Ruger 10/22 looks nice too. While I am going to use the old Winchester, I want to buy a new plinker so I don't wear out my dad's old favorite. (I also read that the 77 wasn't one of Winchester's brightest ideas, hence the limited production)

Howdie folks, a while back my father gave me one of his old guns - a Winchester 77 rifle. I used to use this gun when I was in my high school junior rifleman's club in the early eighties. It has not seen any use since, and has not been disassembled and cleaned since then either. My dad cleaned and oiled it before it went into storage and it still looks great. I'd like to take it to a range and use it again, but I don't remember how to tear it down and reassemble it. My dad always helped me with it and he did it by memory. I have no manuals for it. Does anyone know where I can download a video or manual to help me along? I saw a reproduction manual online for 20 bucks, but there's got to be something out there somewhere for free. (hey, 20 bucks is a brick of ammo!) Thanks!

One of the reasons why I stay away from facebook, twitter, etc. People post things, get fired from work, lose friends, lose spouses - nothing but trouble......