vortex0178

***Keeping it for now!***

For the handgun range: Set up your targets on your stand so that your rounds are going into the berms, not over the berms or into the ground in front of the 25 yard target line. Always exercise muzzle control. Don't muzzle sweep anyone, and try not to cant your muzzle above the horizon line. I got a lecture for doing this after opening my revolver's cylinder to eject spent shells, which I found slightly silly but that's the rule. Only uncase your guns at the bench. Ensure they are pointing downrange before uncasing them. If you move from bench to bench or bench to your car, guns still must be cased. Try to remember to flag your chamber whenever the gun is not under your control. Not a strict rule, but a good habit to get into. Chamber flag must be installed during the cease fire, or gun must be cased (this is a rule). If you arrive when the range is hot, feel free to bring out your equipment and get set up, but remember to keep your target stand (and whatever else you need to set up the target) behind the yellow safety line (i.e. not at the bench) so you do not approach the bench after the cease fire should there be something that you need. I'd suggest pre-stapling your targets to the backboard before going downrange. Don't be "that guy" who stands at his target for 10 minutes trying to repair 100 holes with those little target pasters.

Mags drop free in my 2011 75B as well. I switched from plastic grips to factory rubber grips and they still dropped free.

Sold him a shotgun. Very nice guy, transaction went smoothly and would definitely deal with him again.

Also broke after my AR build

Bump. As for trades, I'm interested in .223 ammo, reloading components for .223 (Varget powder, CCI Small Rifle Primers, or bullets in the 60-70 gr range). Also looking for CZ-75B 15rd mags (either Mecgars or CZ OEM).

Couple of questions about Multiple Handgun Purchase Exemptions and I didn't want to start a new thread: 1. To what address at NJSP do I send the forms? I don't want to go through my local PD since they've proven to be less than diligent when it comes to paperwork. I found this one on the net - is it right? New Jersey State Police Firearms Investigation Unit Post Office Box 7068 West Trenton, New Jersey 08628-0068 2. If I buy a handgun today, and my exemptions come in tomorrow, can I pick up my exempt guns tomorrow? I do not have to wait another 30 days from today, correct? 3. What happens if my exemptions don't come in for, say, 45 days? Can I take home one of the handguns that would have been on the exemption forms early (provided that I'm still observing the 30 day purchase rule)? 4. Do FFL holders discount the transfer fees on multiple purchases at a time (i.e. one NICS call)? Thanks in advance.

@ Old School - If you have a set of calipers handy, can you measure the gap of the lug mounting groove (i.e. where surface A would slide in)? I've ground down B and C to be basically flush with A, but assurances that the bayo wouldn't lock in place would help @ alowerlevel - That's the one!

Sold him a Kadet Kit. Transaction was very smooth and he was willing to drive up and meet me to complete the sale. Thanks again!

@ alowerlevel I think I have the same upper as you Did you cold blue it after grinding it down? Or parkerize/paint?

I've never handled one either but I think you're right. I suppose grinding off only A would mean that the bayonet would still mount but couldn't lock in place, so it'd slide off after the first stab? Whereas taking off both B and C would mean the bayonet would slide off the lug by pulling straight downward? @ Nickjc - PM inbound

How far do you have to go to be compliant? Referring to the pic below, is it fine just to grind down B to be flush with surface A? Or do I have to grind down both B and C to be flush with A? Or is even that not enough, and do I have to hack it off along line D instead?

***SOLD to TommyGun - Mods, kindly lock this thread*** Bought this on a whim as something to get me into skeet shooting and as a HD fallback, but I don't think I want to shoot skeet after all and my .357 is enough for home defense. This gun has never been fired, and is essentially NIB (though I've cleaned up the packing oil from the factory). 20ga break-action single shot with modified choke. LOP measures 14", and barrel length (from muzzle to breech) is 25.5". Comes with original box/manual/gun lock etc., along with a gunsock and a 5rd slip-on buttstock shellholder (Uncle Mike's). Also includes 2x20ga snap caps (A-Zooms). Asking $125 FTF in Bergen County (Paramus) area. Buyer must have FID/matching DL and fill out a COE. I also have 2 3/4" #3 buckshot (10 shells of Federal) and 3" #2 steel shot (25 shells of Federal Black Cloud) that I'll throw in for another $15.

I placed an order for the MOE LBK and the darn thing is still processing since Monday. It's shaping up to be the last thing to arrive for my AR build... which sucks, since it's the only thing I really need to "build" per se....

Or the .44 Mag Trail Boss... I agree with jack, though. When I first shot a 1911 I was surprised that the recoil wasn't all that bad - more of a heavy push instead of a flippy snap.

Sorry. Does it matter that the stripped lower that I'm buying says "Multi" instead of 5.56/.223, presumably so it can be used with uppers of different calibers? I don't know if/how they register the caliber on stripped lower receivers when they are marked "Multi". http://slickguns.com/product/spikes-tactical-ar15-lower-receiver-7995

Bump, Kadet Kit now sold!

Quick question since I'm starting an AR build myself - are there any additional restrictions I should know about when purchasing a stripped lower? Specifically, does it matter if it's "multi" caliber marked? I'm aware that it has to go through a NJ FFL instead of buying out of state since a stripped lower counts as an "other" rather than a rifle, but aside from that, anything else?

Do the 40S&W mags have that little indent on the sides of the mag to limit capacity? If not then you may be able to get 16rds of 9mm in there.

Finally got my next round of permits and took my 629-2 home on Friday. Lock up is excellent and better mechanically than my 686, and finish is pretty nice too. Gonna shoot it today!

1. Application type: 3 Handgun Purchase Permits 2. Police Department where you applied - Fair Lawn 3. Name of the person you dealt with at the PD - Detective Ferreira, Detective Roskowsky 4. Time taken to issue FID and/or permit - 81 Days 5. Documents required by the PD (aside from the standard application and the mental health release form) - Notarized document stating that you are not a convicted felon/alcoholic/drug user/mentally ill person etc. 6. Notes - anything pertaining to the application process (unforeseen difficulties, chief of police calling your home, you hiring an attorney, etc.) I was careful not to call until Day 49, at which point I found out that they were still waiting for one of my reference letters. They had the letter within 10 days and it still took another 3 weeks for my permits to finally be approved. Ironically, they told me that calling/emailing to check status was unnecessary, yet I'd bet they wouldn't have notified me of the missing letter if I hadn't called.

This is probably common knowledge, but I wasn't aware of it, having bought my first two handguns new; it seems like this is a federal law rather than a specific NJ statute. I couldn't find the exact wording but the gist is that a handgun may not be transferred/delivered without being accompanied by a gun lock (I assume both a cable lock or trigger guard lock would qualify). So if I buy a used gun that didn't include a lock, and am forced to buy one at the gun store, is there anything stopping me from returning the unopened gun lock (provided that the store will accept the return), either on my next visit, or right after stowing the handgun in the locked trunk of my car for transport? Of course, since I have so many anyway, I'll just keep a gun lock in my car from now on and use that for transfers, but let's have your opinions on the above

Well, I hope the cop got in a headshot or else we're all screwed.

Bump. @ PK90 - Thanks but I prefer not to buy new... If new, I'd get it from grabagun.com, $622 shipped + $40 transfer fee...

I realized I'd be better off reloading after buying my first two boxes of .44 magnum ammunition. I started with a RCBS Rock Chucker but replaced it a year later with a Hornady L-N-L; once I started loading for 9mm, I decided that single stage was too slow. If I went blue I'd shell out for the XL 650... do they sell that without the case/bullet feeder?