Everything posted by Heavyopp
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Another "What Progressive Press" Thread...
I have nothing against the 550 and manual indexing -- It lets you slow down and think... I have 2 shotgun presses, 12 and 20 gauge that work that way -- The manual index is not a bother and plenty fast
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Another "What Progressive Press" Thread...
Go see the 550 with Old school -- Then call me -- I set up the 650 right next to the Hornady LNL this week -- You can come see both of them together It's a toss up which one is better -- You can feel primers seat on the 650 but it still sucks to prime on a press -- thats my opinion and I'm sticking to it The 650 does have a whole lot more parts, a smaller work area, and just seems more complicated to get to the same place I do like the half step rotation of the Hornady better then the full rotation of the dillon -- If and when something goes wrong, your in a half position on the hornday and it's easier to rectify I also like that the completed, finished rounds eject from the shellplate in front of you on the hornady -- on the dillon they eject on the opposite side of the press from where you are sitting On the dillon, if you don't catch it as soon as the problem occurs, you've completed a full rotation and ejected a case on the other side -- why does this matter -- I'll explain what happened to me I was running the dillon, when out of nowhere, a new primer dropped into the un-used primer tray -- this means I missed seating a primer -- Ok no big deal -- totally operator error So I put the press to it's rest position, and the shellplate rotates, as it's supposed to -- and out drops a partially completed round on the far side of the press, no chance of me seeing which one it is So I pull all those brass pins to remove the cases from each station and set them back 1 place when I realize I now have an un-crimped round in my bin of finished rounds -- Can't find it, until I take the chamber checker out and cycle all the finsihed rounds through it -- and there was 90 plus in there -- PIA Anyway, Just my initial thoughts -- I've only got 100 rounds thru the dillon -- I've got 2 or 3 thousand thru the Hornady
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Transportation
Vans do present their challenges when needing work... I'm not so sure about the cooler thing m_DSCN0484_zps633662cb.jpg
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
Thats an interesting experiment you got going there Duane -- I'd pull the trigger on those rounds What's the worst that happens -- Squib -- We see them even when we're using good ammo Just have to be aware and anything that doesn't seem right gets the barrel checked before another round goes thru How many rounds do you have like this?? I would expect an experiment like this from Porthole -- when he took posession of his tumbler, his 1st project was to dry tumble surplus .308s he had that where too grungy for his rifle
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Transportation
Just a couple of years ago I was on a mission to find a 94 or older ford IDI diesel ambulance I looked at quite a few of them but never pulled the trigger --- was gonna strip it and make it the long distance cruiser -- bug out vehicle -- I'd still consider it if I found the right vehicle
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1911 Build Update
Put the links here --- I'm interested too
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
Nice -- Your caps are off the grease zerks on the left side... just sayin
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243 cal rifle?
I've got a ruger m77 varmint in .243 -- My 1st rifle -- I've taken in out to Montana on multiple occasions -- Antelope, mule deer, whitetail all fell to the .243 Once when the big target is down, you spend the rest of the trip shooting prairie dogs with the same rifle and just a projectile change It's a great cartridge
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Another "What Progressive Press" Thread...
I had a very different experience from Hornady customer service -- My press came broken by UPS -- Bought from Natchez -- I fought with Natchez for a few days, they would have taken it back but had no replacement --which was unacceptable 3 minute phone call to Hornady solved it all -- And they knew the press was broken by UPS, I told them --they didn't care -- I had the new part in a few days RAZ-O -- what was the out of spec primer ram thing? I'd swear my large PP ram is too short -- Can't get a primer to seat fully -- even tried the dime under the ram trick My reason for Hornady over Dillon -- Availability and caliber changes -- although, after seeing the dillon 650 do a caliber change in person, It's not terrible going from large to small
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Worst thing you forgot to bring to the range?
A few years ago I was getting re acquainted with my M1 carbine -- I don't see her much, she lives away from home... Anyway -- I had an ammo can full of 30 carbine -- hauled my ass out to PA Forgot the mags --- Ever shoot an M1 carbine single shot? It was a very disappointing day
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Another "What Progressive Press" Thread...
Hornady service is just as good -- You can actually talk to someone if you call One thing I will say -- the Hornady, without all the feeders, doesn't have all that many parts to go wrong -- The mechanism to rotate the shell plate is stupid simple There's just not that much moving parts till you add all the accessories -- Now I can only speak for the Hornady priming system -- Honestly, I don't like it but I never ever used a press to seat primers, just not enough "feel" But my biggest gripe with the hornady priming system --- You never see a primer until the case is done -- There's no way to verify that a primer was actually in place to be seated The few times I did prime with the press it was always a guessing game -- Is there a primer there? Did it seat fully? Is it flipped? Just too much to bother with for me -- I hand prime -- This way I'm sure the primer is right on every case
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Another "What Progressive Press" Thread...
The hornady isn't a bad setup either -- How far into progressive do you want to go? I spent 20+ years using a single stage rock chucker -- Now I have a Hornady LNL and a Dillon 650 but I don't have the Dillon setup at the moment I feed my own cases and bullets on the hornady -- I also hand prime separately -- I just hate priming on a press -- never liked it Anyway, doesn't bother me doing some steps by hand an it's way faster than the single stage
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hot water heater problem
If he has Natural gas the yes, Tankless are great -- I'm on 6 or 7 years with a rinnai tankless in my home -- Electric tankless heaters where not very good when I was researching them -- But that was 6 or 7 years ago --
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
That's all I do -- just enough blade to cut thru the pipe -- But it will still grab and throw that piece clear across the room if your not careful I ripped a 6" long piece of oak flooring to fit snug inside the PVC pipe -- I just wedge it in there and make the cut -- At the end of the cut the wood forces the pipe open keeping it controllable
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World Class Steel @ OBRPC - Sunday 11/3/13
Not this time -- I'm in with the .45 trojan and MKIII -- I don't like seeing my name last on the scorecard Not so sure Jake is coming -- Seems like he'd rather play video games --- Maybe I'll take the controllers in the morning with me
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hot water heater problem
How long did that house sit empty? Thats rust in the bottom of the tank from sitting -- I'd plan on changing it.
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1 Piece lower/Stock combo for 9MM AR build....?t
Doesn't the lower on a 9mm build need the mag well machined for the proper mags??? Did you plan on using some sort of insert instead?
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RTSP Digital Simulator - WAY COOL, and I don't like video games
RTSP --- where is it??
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World Class Steel @ OBRPC - Sunday 11/3/13
So I guess we'll use this thread to get a head count.... Jake and I are in -- Hockey at 2pm have to bug out by 1pm but we'll shoot what we can
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
Those are called sex bolts and you could certainly use them --Sex bolts & Mating screws You would have to figure out the proper length and they are not cheap but it's definitely possible You are still looking at extra work and maintenance to seal the drum but you would have less bolt on the inside -- Was that the reason why we're having this discussion? If you found one with a shallow enough head there might be enough plastic to still countersink them under the cap. Would solve the sealing issue.
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
Drum isn't done in the pictures -- My glue was jelly so I couldn't use it -- I'll get to it tonight and finish it up
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
I don't think you would have enough clearance with the rollers unless you modified the drum The drum only contacts the rollers on the fittings now but there's only 1/4" of room to spare -- just not enough for even a nut without the washer on the outside Silicone would probably work to seal for awhile but would be in need of constant maintenance -- not something I want to be part of
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
I use 3/4" long #10 screws -- I could get 5/8 long screws instead they are available -- The rubber hose on the screws on my personal drum have seen a few miles and I have never needed to replace 1
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
The inside -- stainless washer and nylock nut As suggested by others on this forum, I decided that protecting the brass from the end of the screw couldn't hurt -- I ended up using a small piece of windshield washer hose do it 7 more times -- here's what it looks like on the outside Time to glue it up -- Pay attention to the direction you want to rotate -- I like it all to run smooth inside so I rotate it with the "wedge" of the agitators leading the way in the drum -- I also like my rubber cap on the end of the tumbler without the motor -- I figure that the most likely failure of the drum would be the rubber cap coming off during cleaning Getting ready to glue -- Prime both the pipe and the fitting -- the fitting should reach down this far over the screw And thats as far as I was able to go -- My glue was bad -- all jellied up -- I only had 1" left in the can and it didn't survive I'll finish it up tomorrow, when I can use a fresh can of glue
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Some real grungy brass turned to Bling
The parts: 6" sdr 35 pvc pipe 14.5 inches long with square cuts on the ends -- I use a chop saw and kinda roll the pipe into the blade to make the cut 2" sch 40 pvc 14.5" long quartered on my tablesaw -- It's orange because it's fire sprinkler rated pipe -- comes from a job site I'm on -- I grab all the scraps I can -- One word of caution on quartering on a tablesaw -- wedge a piece of wood inside of the 2" pipe to keep it "open" when you finish the cut -- the PVC will want to close or squeeze the saw blade at the end of the cut and rip it right out of your hands -- be aware of where your fingers are - 1 - 6X4 reducer and 1- 6" cap -- both sized for sdr35 and not sch40 -- I get them a lowes -- cheaper then my suppliers Layout the marks for the agitators -- I just do it by eye -- no real need for precision Layout the hole in the drum and thru the clamped agitator -- combo square is set at 2" -- the fittings are 3" deep -- 2" keeps the screws under the fittings Drill the hole -- get close to the edge of the agitator Countersink the outside using the appropriate bit