Screwball

Ok... And is bear spray marketed towards women for self defense? Do they make keychain versions of it, regularly sold? Sorry, but completely different product, with a different role. Pepper spray usually has a range of 10 feet or so. Bear spray, extend it out to 30 feet. Argue whatever you want, I don’t suggest pepper spray as this great solution. Dogs, with their respiratory system/sense of smell... there is a reason why USPS hands them to their employees. Bears... while different, yea, because what is the alternative with a 300+ pound animal with a thick skull? Deterrent is usually the better choice. Tasers... to be perfectly honest, I hope get allowed, as more rights to citizens is always a plus, but you won’t see me buying one. If BP requires me to carry one, I will, and will train to their standards... but not going to elect to buy one or carry it when not working. And when I’m out of NJ, not having my girlfriend carry one or pepper spray. She will be carrying a firearm.

Useless... My mom had one of those on her keys when I was a kid, and I sprayed myself messing around with it inside a K-Mart. I noticed it, but walked calmly to the bathroom and washed my face. Somewhere around 10... What would it do to a determined threat?

Or just get these magazines... http://www.calegalmags.com/458-SOCOM-10rd-Magazine_p_1396.html

Personally, I am looking at the 8 Plus over the X... Have the 6 Plus, with 128 GB. No issue with capacity, as I still have over half free, but with iOS 11, it is starting to run a little off (I’m sure will be smoother with 11.1). I keep it in a Lifeproof case, but the 8+ being waterproof is a big factor for me (yea, the X is, as well). I’m sure I’ll still buy a Lifeproof case for it, but being waterproof if the case fails is big. The 256 GB option is also a nice touch, as I go for the largest capacity when I buy. Glad they standardized on it and the 64 GB. But the difference between the X that I’m passing on is the lack of a home button. With face ID, I’m sure it is going to be the future... but I prefer going with something tested. I know when Touch ID will work and will not work. Considering my move/upcoming training, I may wait a little bit before getting a new iPhone. The 6 Plus works, and I’m not under the gun to get a new phone (if I had my old 5, probably). I take care of it, so until it stops being updated or doesn’t work with some of my apps, I’m fine with it.

Medtronic 530G... if I have to wait until January, I better be allowed to go with the 670G. If not, I’ll go Omnipod. A coworker’s daughter switched from what I have to it, and prefers it... but I do like functionality of Medtronic. Hate the company, though. They waited months to let me know of an issue with their sets, which caused sporadic insulin introduction when you changed them out (they down played it a lot, but had a few instances where I couldn’t attribute a low to anything... and looking back, all were after a change). When the recall was made, I had one set left (box of 10). They gave me a box, but really annoyed with that. I used at least a 90 day supply of that stuff, because they waited so long (was probably done because most people use older stuff first). Then, they constantly call any fault with their sensors as user error, even though their sensors are garbage. Can only be used in the abdomen... in a spot that doesn’t bend. I’m 5’11” and 185 pounds... doing a sit-up, it all bends. They say a doctor can suggest locations other than that for use. Put in my arms, small of back, etc (doctor recommended any place I could give a shot). When I have issues, “you are putting it in a spot we don’t recommend!” It’s like who’s on first... The last one actually happened the same day I got this Horizon letter. They sent me a bill for $12.95 for a pump clip. One was ordered with a supply order (guess it came on auto ship, and didn’t notice), and another I ordered since I broke it. Got two, respectively... and was charged twice for each. Call up and say that there was an error. You would have thought I was speaking Greek to them. I literally had to say, “bought two clips, charged for two clips, received two clips, bill says still owed for a clip... fix issue). They said it was processed incorrectly. Might seem like I’m making a big thing over something small, but this was all done on their web store. If you can’t keep internet orders, which have cards linked to them, in order... do I really want my life in your hands? Even more, when I explain the issue, you argue with me first that I ordered too many clips, then that I never received one. I know there are people at Medtronic that care, but between those I’ve talked to and the representative that lied and said the pump was waterproof... I’m close to sending the pump back to them with a pile of s*** in the box. To move away from my rant, that is partially why I have the Gold plan. Durable medical supplies (pump supplies) are covered 100%. I didn’t see any mention of it changing in the letter, so hopefully it is good. Pump supplies, including sensors, are roughly $3,000 per 90 days. While I’m far from a conspiracy guy... it kind of gives people a reason not to find a cure, because you are killing a huge medical market with a cure. I hope that isn’t the case, but with the crap I’m seeing Horizon doing (charging more for less coverage), it isn’t that far away.

I’m very done with the whole healthcare BS... When I first got my own, I got a Gold plan for about $300. Didn’t apply for any assistance as I was young and felt that it should go to people that really need it. Stayed with Horizon since that is the big name that is taken mostly everywhere, and what my family used over the years. The next year, Gold plan jumped up to $380. But for an extra $5, I could get a Platinum plan. Did that, and did notice some good things over the Gold. The coverage for this current year came up... they got rid of the Platinum plan. Had to go back to Gold, but rates went up to $515. Got the letter the other day... Gold plan next year will now be $605 per month. This is just for me... no family. I opt for better plans because of being a Type I diabetic. Should just get the cheap plans and put the money into a short term investment. I called up Horizon today, being I wanted to confirm the quote was correct. The girl I got told me that rates increased 20% to 28%, and proceeded to read me the changes in the letter. I abruptly stopped her, and mentioned that I did graduate with a Bachelor’s degree... so I can read it. Was very blunt. I can understand costs going up, but not only am I paying $90 more per month, my out of pocket/deductibles were increased SUBSTANTIALLY! It is the Omnia BS... where Tier 1 used to be $0 deductible. Now, $1,000. Maximum out of pocket went from $7,000 to $9,000. The Tier 2 stuff went up, including copays across the board. Why do I pay more per month, and have even less coverage? She couldn’t give me an answer to that... As it sits, I am going into more debt than I did with school (had a trust setup after my grandfather died, so no student loans). $515 statements would work, if I didn’t have to pay almost $600 every 90 days for prescriptions. Checked online, nowhere near the deductibles or out of pocket limits... Being my insulin pump is out of warranty in January (tried to get an in-warranty upgrade, since the company representative lied to me about it being waterproof), and I want to get the more advanced one for FLETC, I’m kind of cornered into paying the increase for the Gold plan. But I sure as hell will be canceling this once insurance goes live for CBP. The one thing that got me on the end of the call was the girl saying she hopes the Affordable Care Act will help me next year to pick a good plan. My costs have gone up at $100 per month intervals for the past three years. I’m sorry, but you aren’t going to say that without me calling BS on it. And also, Horizon’s phone system is garbage. Call sales, gets transferred to their main member number, then have to be transferred back to sales. Can never get an operator unless you pick an option that usually doesn’t have anything to do with your question. And it doesn’t recognize numbers until you push it four times. And I do have to say I feel bad for non-English speakers, because they make you say member, and put in your account number before you can press 8 for Spanish.

But it is NOT a shotgun... [emoji6]

How much, if you don’t mind me asking?

I was going to buy a TAC-14 when I move... if I can get one here, I’m interested.

Looks good. I’m more open to doing something like that over a frame. I used LightFighter Innovations for my stippling work... yes, it can be done yourself, but he does GREAT work. Plus, I like supporting veteran owned companies (very good guy).

Probably early 2018... my girlfriend is going to stay until I start work/we get the house sold.

I kind of want a M1 Carbine clone... but may just hold out and get an M1 Carbine. [emoji41] Mine...

Ruger New Vaqueros are also close to the size of a SAA... but have a few more safety features (transfer bar, loading gate freeing cylinder to spin). Depends on what you are looking for. Do you want that specific sound when cocking the hammer?

So, shouldn’t feel too bad for not going?

Before you get there and after you leave...

Same old NRA... been not giving a crap about NJ for years, now going to toss something that was approved as not a machine gun by the ATF (under Obama) into the furnace. Glad I didn’t get a chance this year to donate more money to them... will not do it again.

That is part of the role for a Takedown, but if you look at long guns around the turn of the last century (1900), they were also made to make cleaning easier.

10/22s aren’t bad out of the box. The barrels on them are usually good enough for most people... but like an AR, people like to modify them. Personally, I recommend the Takedown. While the standard works, compactness and ease of cleaning the barrel is better with the Takedown. If you get a shorter barrel, and then that Magpul Backpacker stock, your rifle is along the lines of a AR-7... that is Ruger 10/22 reliable. If it was only that gun, and not having a 10/22... I’d buy it.

Depends on the show... people show up on Friday of the three day shows, but hours are 1PM to 8PM. People with 9-5 jobs may stop in after 5PM, but most wait for the weekend. For vendors, it depends on how far they are going, and what their responsibilities are (lot of sellers have shops, so if you can’t get coverage, have to close, load, and drive to Oaks). Saturday is usually the biggest day. Depending on how Saturday goes for vendors is how well Sunday is. Crazy busy, and vendors sell out, they leave on Sunday. Dead, it depends on what/how much they want to sell if they decide to stay... or they cut their losses and leave. Middle of the road, a decent Sunday. Talk to the vendors as you walk around, and you’ll get an idea of the show by your third aisle. Even though Eagle Arms says X amount of tables, you never see that across the entire weekend. I remember going to one of their large shows, and they had all the rooms open... and were pretty full (plus that one by entrance near BJ’s was a high end antique room). Went to the same show, with same table estimates, the following year... only two rooms open, with a lot of empty space). Two day shows usually are dead, but I’ve seen three days just as dead. I tend to go on Sundays, as you do see people coming down on prices (not common, but some do so they don’t take stuff home; I make note of those guys, and return again when I need something like ammo). Don’t get me wrong, I’ll buy something if I need it, but buying online means I don’t have to lug whatever it is around the entire show... so I’m more likely to buy if they say $40 for my $42 ammo purchase (and if I look at Cabela’s, I’m usually a little higher if someone knocks a few dollars off). But you also see less vendors, as some say the hell with it and get out before the rush after the show. Before leaving, WaWa, Wendy’s, or Buffalo Wild Wings right by the exit to the road back towards King of Prussia. Used to be a nice burger place (Max & Erma’s) inside that mall/shopping complex, but closed up. Oh, and don’t follow the directions your GPS gives you. When you get off 422, it tells you to turn left down Mill Rd. Always a pain, as people never know exactly where to go. Go up to the following light, and turn left on Station Ave. You’ll go along Lowe’s and BJ’s, go through an odd four-way stop (keep right, left turn only lane into stores), and you come right up to the expo center (on left, after the unpaved gravel parking lot). No exit to 422 by The Dump (furniture store), so need to go back out to Egypt Rd to leave.

I agree... if the light extends past the muzzle, who cares. Other than keeping the slide in battery at contact distance, you also reduce shadow (lights on long guns behind the barrel will have that shadow). Even with the light behind the muzzle, you still are going to have carbon buildup, so it isn’t like you are gaining much by trying to find a light that short. Probably easier to get a 5” M&P (if they released the 2.0 in that length yet). In regards to the full size weapon light (TLR-1, for example), there is a time/place for it. There is also a place for a compact weapon light. As mentioned, I am running a TLR-3 on a Glock 30S. Profile of a 30 would work similar... just two pictures I found online. TLR-1 TLR-3 Depending on your method of carry, that extra length of the light can be uncomfortable. It would be even more comfortable if Streamlight did more keys to extend the light all the way back to the trigger guard... wouldn’t be flush or behind the muzzle, just less out front. Is it the brightest light out there? No, but it is a weapon mounted light attached to a carry gun. If it is between that weapon light and no weapon light, I’d opt for it. If it dies, or need something brighter... I have either a Surefire P2X or P3X. Same view with my 9mm S&W 642-1, with the LaserMax weapon light (even less of a profile addition).

Take a look on MAC... Tim just did a video of the PX4. Was very impressed, and it actually ran ammo that jammed in all other guns he tried it in (steel cased Winchester, if I remember correctly). Supposedly, there is a gauntlet test being ran on it soon. He originally said he doesn’t think it will work out well, but time will tell. If you look on Pistol Forum, PX4s are well regarded there. Personally, had good use with my 9mm, and even the .45 (sold it because it was large, and my Glock 30S fits the bill better). That speaks more to me than “everyone’s” feelings.

I doubt we will see the 46 over here, but I’d want to take a look at one. Like the rotating barrel in the PX4, so interested in how Glock did theirs. Would I buy one? Since I have a similar sized .45 (30S), and not bothered by recoil, it isn’t going to do much over a 19 for me. Lower bore would be nice, but if it doesn’t share holsters, sights, or magazines with the 19 (giving examples, no idea on commonality), there would be absolutely no reason other than s***s and giggles.

I would say the TLR-3, especially if you try different keys to change the mount position. I have an older 5” Pro model, which uses the standard frame. If the rails are the same, and I toss the light on, should be able to see what position I get, if it doesn’t pass the dust cover. Not that up on the 2.0, but if that works for your purposes, I’ll pull the gun/light out of the safe and try out a few keys tomorrow. TLR-3 is a nice light. 125 lumens... not a TLR-1 HL, but it works good with my Glock 30S. My J-frame LaserMax weapon light is 115 lumens if I remember correctly, and works ok for the purposes needed. Insight used to make a similar light (want to say the X2), unsure if they still do or are even still around. If I ever needed to, would go on my M&P Compact. But that was like early generation weapon lights... think was an incandescent bulb, maybe 50 lumens. But it did its job back then. TLRs are all LED, now.

If they are needed to be replaced, only thing I could come up with is if they come with the bracket or some other parts kit for a replacement. I can ask a friend, who is a tech at PineBelt Chevy.

You asking for the part number or the part by VIN or year/model? GM likes discontinuing certain part numbers for some cars... and leave the old ones for others. Eventually, they standardize them... but a 2015 is likely not to that point. Just figured I'd point it out, in case you find out it is a different part number. And always double check eBay... $60 parts are usually on there in the $20 area.