Screwball

Have a SI vent rib barrel on order... [emoji41] Also, got the GG&G mount on the gun. Required me to grind down the sidesaddle plate. Smoothed it out, but will look great whenever I get it refinished (leaning towards Robar). And put a mount on the forend, in case I want to two point it. Doesn’t get in the way of utilizing the light, so rather have the ability. In single point, very comfortable position and easy to bring into action.

That, and what will go on with those exposed metal tabs... People are likely going to be carrying them in pouches, so how will they interact there. Ovaling out the shells is a big concern, but looking at the magazine... it leaves a lot to be desired. Wouldn’t want it to be as finicky in function as it looks. Magazines tend to be the deciding factor in reliability... judging the action is sound. I asked a question or two on YouTube, by a channel that is pushing it very well. Received a very cocky response, which made me side that he is being paid for the review (no issue with that, but don’t come off as independent; unsubscribed from him due to it). But direct info I got from him... magazines do load fully loaded, on a closed bolt.

Anything is possible... but it isn’t a new idea, and has been done multiple times with no real success. For it to be successful, I see two things needing to be met. First, reliability. I’ve seen a few YouTube videos on them, and they seem to work. But what happens when you start having people run them hard? Do those tabs get out of wack easily? Any issue with storing loaded magazines? And then also add in the fact that Remington has been spotty with shotgun designs that have been around for decades... how well will this be rolled out? Second, they need to market it correctly. I also include designing magazines in the correct capacity... as neither one introduced thus far is hunting legal (why make a three rounder, which cannot be used since the total capacity is four?... three in magazine, one in chamber). While the competition and defensive buyers are important, it is a drop in the bucket compared to hunters. That is a big market... especially when you’ll see clay sports sticking with current designs (break opens are big in those, but you still see a lot of 870s on the lines at trap ranges; can’t single load one of these easily). Why wasn’t a hunting legal magazine offered from Jump Street? I like Remington, even with current management. Have four shotguns (well, one is a “firearm”), and not have had a major issue in any of them. Only problem I’ve had was the newer follower jamming when cold... so I swap that out. From hearing talks of bankruptcy, I wish them the best... just I don’t see this being their way back into safes. Fix your reputation, then put out new stuff. It’s sad because if you look at most custom tactical shotguns (Nighthawk, Wilson, Salient, Robar), they have mainly been built off the 870 platform. It was one thing when people recommended the Police models because of stupid things to get over the civilian shotguns (magazine dimples)... then it was because they were better made. When it got to the point where there are currently at, someone at Remington should have looked at how consumers view the company and rethink their choices.

Carl, in the comic, builds a connection to Negan after the conflict resolves. With him being killed off, either his sister will fill into that... or Negan will be killed. Going with the former. I don’t mind him going, being his character really went downhill since losing his eye. I really want to see how the Saviors got out of their compound. Guess we will find out in February.

Same here... costs money, but worth it.

Question for Shockwave or TAC-14 guys... any benefit for doing threading for choke tubes? I prefer choke tubes on most of my shotguns, and had my Ithaca 37 threaded to accept Remington chokes (have an adapter on my KSG to do the same). Only gun using different chokes is my Mossberg SRII... which I use for trap. My main home defense shotgun is a 20” 870 Police, but left the IC barrel alone (sent it to Robar before I thought about it). Get decent results with PDX1 out of it. The TAC-14 is definitely something I’d like to get as much out of... but seems that they get tight patterns within the most effective range. Can still toss in slugs, but not going to be shooting to the point where a Modified or Full choke would make a difference. Main reason I ask is that I’m looking to send the barrel to Rose Action Sports. But I’m also considering picking up a vent-rib barrel for it from Suarez International. Not a fan of the owner, but I do like the rib over just a bead sight. If I do get it, might send both barrels to Rose Action Sports... OEM barrel to have the chamber polished, and the SI barrel to have sights changed out (comes polished). Probably would do a white dot up front, and a brass mid bead. In regards to the barrel, only option would be the rib. No refinishing, no fiber optic front sight. I considered the porting, but rather not... shouldn’t have to worry about burning myself due to the handstops, but being an unconventional firearm, don’t want to worry about venting gas upwards. Definitely can’t do choke tubes if I port it. https://suarezinternational.com/stakeout-870-14-barrel-for-tac-14/

I’m usually not someone that gets vengeful with things... but I’d have the feeling if someone poisoned my two dogs, they would unexpectedly have their house burned to the ground shortly there after. Just saying...

I just ordered the GG&G QD one off MidwayUSA (right hand, so on left/non-ejection port side)... looking at a few views of it, it may work without any modification. If not, I’ll just take a little bit off the sidesaddle plate. No big deal. Got a MS4, as well. I have two or three in inventory that I use among a few guns, but wanted one just for the TAC-14 (like the one for my SUB-2000, which I added a double magazine pouch to keep extra ammo on the gun; plus, I can set it up for that specific firearm and not mess with it). I also got a Troy MLOK QD point for the forend, as I’m considering a two point option for another way of carry. Should be able to put it on the rear end of the forend, in line with the rail for the TLR-1, and have a good way to carry it more secured than just one point. I like options, and how it sits, that setup should be everything I want out of it.

Would you be able to take a picture of it for me? Just wanted to see clearance on the receiver from the side edge (looking up from trigger guard). Would help a lot for me to see if any or how much work would be needed on the sidesaddle. Figure the style should be similar between the Remington and Mossberg.

That’s the plate I’m looking at for my Remington...

Not the TacStar... GG&G does make a sidesaddle with a QD integrated. But I prefer TacStar, and want the sixth round. Getting the +1, rather have a full reload on the gun. I did see a few other plates that do ambidextrous QD, and look to favor the grip side... but rather just the one side. Have to really look, and check reviews on the options out there.

Yea, saw a few reviews mentioning that... leaning QD, but rather not have to modify anything.

I don’t play no games...

I was looking at a strap, but personally, rather not have my hand restrained to the forend like that. The Magpul setup, fits perfectly around my hand, and is kind of usable shooting with my weak hand (right hand as support). Good position for the light, so I’m happy with it. The TAC-14 doesn’t have a stud on the grip, so either add one (not a fan of) or go with a sling adapter. Leaning towards the latter... but got to think it through. With the TacStar sidesaddle, the plate comes back to like 1/4” to 3/8” from the edge of the receiver, at the point the QD mount will be located. From what I saw online, it seems that the socket for the mount favors the receiver side. Probably going to be an issue there. Sling will be a Magpul, either MS3 or MS4. I prefer the QD mounts, so it would be a MS4, and possibly modifying the sidesaddle plate to fit (shouldn’t be hard, just Dremel a relief around the socket). Other option would be a MS3, then a Midwest Industries plate, which accepts HK clips (like 90% sure the Magpul para-clips work with it). That would be no modification, since it is inline with the plate.

Nope... didn’t need to Dremel. Swage, peened with brass punch, and was good enough that the follower didn’t hesitate at all when it went down the tube. Nor is there any interference in loading/unloading. I might mess with it when the barrel goes out for threading, but doubt there is any need to prior to plating. For the price of the swage, it is a nice tool to have. I might never need to do it again, but don’t have to buy it again if I want to add an extension to another 870.

Went together like the stock parts. Did use the included wave washer, which really keeps the extension from moving. No issues loading or unloading, so thinking it is good (real test is at the range). Put in the Wilson spring, but kept in the stainless follower. When I sent the Wilson follower down the tube, it jammed in the magazine opening, which is one of the things I upgrade on my Remingtons. Had an 11-87 with stock polymer follower that hung up in cold weather, making it close to impossible to load the magazine. I’m thinking about a GG&G rear QD sling plate to fit between the grip/receiver (will make gun slightly longer, so no issue), but not doing anything that will use a front sling mount. Stud is right in front of the muzzle, and I’m not looking to shoot off a sling. It is small enough that a single point is good enough... if I decide to go that route. Was considering to yank the stud off (C clamp, then falls out the inside), but then I’ll have a hole that size at the end of the tube. How it will run with TLR-1.

A magnifier behind a red-dot magnifies the reticule (dot), as well as the image going through the sight. The idea is that you have a 1x image with just the red-dot, which is preferred with shooting closer in... then a magnified 3x (or 6x) when you are shooting further away. Your question about whether to see the image better or bring it closer to the eye... it is actually both. However, the size of the target you mention is roughly the size of a torso. At 100 yards, judging you have somewhat decent vision, you should be able to make that shot without the need of a magnifier. The magnifier should make it an easier shot, but will also allow you to more clearly see the target. The same can be said for a 1.5-6x scope, but some prefer to have 1x instead of 1.5x for short range. Having a red-dot/magnifier combo, as well as a 1.5-6x scope... I actually prefer the red-dot/magnifier. The scope still gets used in a similar role because of offset backup iron sights. In regards to hitting the target, rezero your red-dot with the magnifier. I say that because you may see that at 50 yards (zero I use), you look dead on. But when you add the magnifier, you may be slightly off. Not that your zero shifted, but your zero wasn’t as clear as it was using just your eye (little off at 50 shifts more the further you move out). While I have the one Aimpoint magnifier, all of my Aimpoints have room for me to mount it behind... which I use when zeroing. Difference will not make a you hitting off, but it puts the POI even closer to the POA (excluding drop and wind).

Got my package from Brownell’s today... Removing the detents with the XS swage was actually extremely easy. Grease the swage and portion of the magazine tube that will be utilized... and hammer it in. I got a cheap scope ring, which I used, but was causing the swage to get hung up at that point. Removed it, and went down to the shoulder. 1/4” brass punch to peen the detents, and the swage pulled out. Cleaned all the grease out of the tube, and you can see where they were, just barely feeling them with your finger. Took my stainless follower and spun it a few times around the dimple area... no issue. Did the same with the retainer, and nothing caught it. Being the extension should be here tomorrow, I just put the stock system back in and tightened the barrel nut down. I may take a Dremel to the inside to clean up the dimples, but if there isn’t any issue loading/unloading, might just leave it until I get it refinished. Outside looks normal.

It really does come down to personal preference... not really a right/wrong answer. In regards to it being a NJ “trunk gun,” it may be a valid consideration. However, I’m not going to be in NJ for that much longer, so might be partial towards the traditional tube magazine. But when you are going to have issues with feeding, the magazine usually is the cause. For me, running an 870 and moving to a 870 with a detachable magazine is a big difference. If I have 10+ years on a traditional 870, is it worth it for me to move to the new model? Not really. For people considering the move, need to consider the pros/cons of each, and which is worth more to then. I heard they have three and six round magazines planned. So, if you have a three rounder... does that mean you can’t hunt with it or can’t load three on a closed bolt (would also be a five rounder if that is the case)? And how does this differ from 10 round box/drum and five round box from the Adaptive Tactical kit which has been around for a few years already?

A Yugo M48 is a nice rifle, but not really collectible. It isn’t a World War rifle. With the mismatched bolt, you’d want to be sure it is safe to shoot. Probably likely to be good, but should always make sure. A few years back, I got M48A (matching), with a bayonet, for $295. Definitely look on Gunboards and GunBroker to see what is out there. You might be surprised with a similar deal with a matched rifle, as Yugos were imported heavily. Most are in great condition because they were maintained very well.

And I’m glad you would train to do that... Running a traditional 870 for years, that is as instinctive as swapping the tubes on a KSG. Can it be done? Sure... but you are going to have to retrain on the entire system. Add in the history of a lack of interest in box fed pump action shotguns, I’m skeptical with it.

Word... [emoji41]

As does my two 11-87s, one out of two 870s (will shoot the TAC-14 on Friday), Ithaca 37, KSG, Century PW87, and IAC 97.

Another point, out of those running 870s, who knows how to clear the chamber without loading a shell from the tube? How would you load in a slug when you have a magazine that likely uses the bolt to keep the shells out from loading into the chamber? Bolt comes back, your next round in the magazine will be ready to be loaded. That means to change out to a slug, need to pull out the magazine and either directly load a slug (probably insert directly into the chamber since there isn’t likely a shell lifter) or load a magazine with slugs into the gun? There is a similar topic on another forum I’m following... which came up a day before this one started. One of the posters there made a comment that I feel is probably one of the more thought out views of this design change. Paraphrasing... but it makes you need to relearn shooting a shotgun basically from scratch.

We can agree to disagree... But what do you think Remington is doing different? Because there have been pump action detachable magazine shotguns for years. Early 1990s, there was one company taking standard shotguns and just modifying them for a metal box magazine. Just think they pulled the spring and follower, leaving the tube for forend support. I say that because I don’t even remember the company’s name... and I was interested in it back then (it was in one of those thick gun value books... 1993ish; remember the Beretta 96 ad in the same book). Another case in point... how long have the Adaptive Tactical kits been out? Are they a hit? Sorry, but while I’m all for new designs... I think it will be a waste for Remington. Put that same money into QC, and regain consumer support.