Kingsoverqueens

For what type of loss? Probably loss due to theft of misplacement.

Yes, and which is why its very important to make sure your stuff is covered properly, assuming that it's important to you. I've got standard production guns that really aren't worth that much money. Another guy I shot with a week ago has custom worth several thousand dollars.

Most carriers including those who subscribe to ISO, offer broadening endorsements that increase the limits on those items, like guns, jewelery, etc., from what is provided under the basic HO form.

I don't. Sig's website does not advise dry fire, and from what I'm told (forums & other owners) dry firing .22's is a bad idea. Not sure how to answer the question on the trigger. It's pictured above. I never paid attention to the pull.

Yeah, same gun. It comes with the rails in the box. It took a few minutes to put them on. The foregrip was an option. The one shown is a cheapo 10 dollar version I got off Amazon. I've since removed it and have it sitting in my safe.

No worries Bud. I think the best advice is always for people to read their policy and if they are confused to ask a question.

Really? Have you read a policy that limits the coverage other than I've described? If so, please name it, or send me the policy form, so I can update my list. On edit....MOST carriers use forms printed by ISO (they are the people who design and publish insurance policy forms). Others will use what's called a "Manuscript" policy, meaning, they wrote it themselves. It's been my experience that carriers who manuscript almost always broaden coverage from ISO, and those that don't will mirror ISO very closely but not exactly. If you follow the link (not my company/just a random link found on internet) below you'll see an HO-3 (very typical) homeowner policy. The vast majority of carriers use this form. Go to page 2, upper right corner, and read item number 6. http://www.mullerinsurance.com/resources/Homeowners3SpecialForm.pdf It stands to reason that you should always read your policy, however, my original comments are going to prove accurate for the vast majority of people who are going to read this thread. On second edit....here is the HO4 renters form (for those who rent). Go to page 2, upper right, number 6. http://www.mullerinsurance.com/resources/Homeowners4SpecialForm.pdf

Speak for yourself. I've got a sunburn on my face and racoon eyes due to my sunglasses. I look like a freak. But otherwise, yes, things went very well.

Duty above and beyond the call. You got some applause when Dave mentioned you built and ran to catch your flight. Your effort was appreciated by the crew of shooters.

As a point of information, you firearms are covered by your homeowner policy just the same as any other type of personal property, like your kitchen table or living room couch. The limitation that kicks in is if/when the firearm is stolen or misplaced. At that point, for that specific peril(s), there is a limitation of coverage (per gun/total value). But if they burn up in a fire they are covered like regular property.

L&H in Wall has one sitting on the rack. If you listen you can hear it calling out your name. Listen.....sonnylee...come buy me.

Ahhhh.....stop talking about the wea.....crud....pouring in Middletown right now. <squideye @ raz-o>

My days as a fisherman let me know better than to mention the wea.....nope, not going to jinx us.

No reason a husband and wife can't use the same references and I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't be advisable. I remember when I first applied for my FID, sweating over who might give me the "best" reference. And then I saw the form. Now I use the same two people, every time, because I know they are going to fill it out properly and get it returned ASAP, which, when you think about it, is all that matters.

Me too. I like that gun however. Gimmee....

I'm not a "dog" person, you know, but I gotta tell ya, Tobi looks wicked cool.

Hey Guys. I spent some time researching the reloading process and came across a few comments about manually brushing out the hole after the spent primer is punched out. That process seemed exceedingly fastidious to me, but at the same time it got me thinking, why not just punch out the old primer and then clean the brass. Anyone?

Not to be argumentative, but how do you know they didn't? You were supervising the kids in the back yard. Was someone else inside that would have heard them ring or knock?

Thanks Max. This is one purchase I'm hoping to get mostly right the first time out. From what little I've seen (and learned so far) is that I don't want a single stage setup. Hopefully we can talk in greater detail on Sunday. I'm sure there is a lot you can teach me, and that I would very much appreciate.

I do actually. I would be great to get a tutorial from someone who's done it before. Thanks!

Dillon, Lee, and now Rock Chucker....lol I'm litterally just starting the process.

Oh, I knew the initial investment would be over $210.00. I've been told it could run as much as $700 to $800 bucks, natually, depending on the type of equipment I bought. It just seemed to make more sense to take the $210 I was going to spend on 1,000 rounds of ammo and put it towards the initial investment necessary for the reloading equipment. I've already got 7 or 8 hundred rounds of brass on hand, so why not, right? At the same time, I'm going to have to start reloading once I run out of ammo, which I think is down to around 800 rounds. One of my many issues is that I tend to procrastinate. lol This will force me.

You'll be fine with the double mag pouch. Go to fire line with with one in your pocked, load up, and you've got 2 on your belt. On the chance a stage has a round count higher than 31 you'll have to pull a magazine out of your pocket or have to reload manually which will kill your time, but so what. I wouldn't let that stop you from trying out the game. It's a blast.

I've read the replies here (thanks everyone, btw) several times, and started reading other stuff on reloading. As I understand the process: 1) Clean brass 2) remove primer, debur 3) reprime, load powder 4) load bulet and set That's about the gist of it? A progressive press will accomplish steps 2, 3 and 4 with one pull, and single stage press requires multiple handeling of the round for each stage, yes?

Thanks Nick, I certainly appreicate that offer. Our geographics present a challange, but I'll keep it in mind. I was all set to order another 1,000 rounds and cancelled the order when I realized it was $210 bucks I could put towards reloading equipment. So I guess my mind is made up.