mustang69

Fenced in yard? Just let the dog out. It'll have fun chasing them away...

The free shipping code works for ammo too...

What are they? Junk? Working? NJGF-List works...

I'd buy the Governor's office, or maybe a few politicians....

I have a 1/2 hp motor from an old drain snake that might work. Has a gear reduction drive and a reverse switch. In Somerset County west of you on route 22, will swap for some ammo...

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I'm running a 1990 World-Class box. I'd like to get a z-spec from ford but prices went through the roof. The T-5's don't like missed 1-2 shifts but can be pretty strong. Plus they're cheap at the swap meets if you know what to look for. I have 3 of them and didn't pay more than $100 each. I know at least two of them work fine. Just don't try and put a 4-cyl trans behind a v8.

The car was an auto when I got it. I swapped it out for a toploader, then the t-5. One of the easiest mods I've done.

The 9" housing is the original rear that was in the car when I got it - it's the only piece of the original driveline & suspension that's still there. Not that it matters but it's what I have. No sense taking it out until I decide to do something else with the rear suspension, then it's probably an independent rear anyway. I already converted it to rear disc brakes. Changing a coil-spring 8.8 over to a leaf-spring setup isn't hard, but why go through the trouble when I already have the 9", plus I have a couple extra pumpkins/gears already set up for the 9".

Trans is a t-5. Rear is a 9" with 3.50 gears. Entire suspension is built - Upper and lower a-arms, coilovers up front, Caltrac and 5-leaf in the rear. Front & rear anti-roll bars, shocks are double adjustable. Frame connectors.

All I'm doing now is changing the cam and whatever else I need to because of that. The short block is the same as I've been running. Last dyno was 297 at the wheels. Already has more power than traction. I want to keep the smallblock because of the balance front/rear weight, and I want to keep the shaker hood setup I have - I built the car originally for street/strip and autocross. If I were doing it all over again I'd make it a 331 or 347, but I'm not looking to replace the entire motor right now. Yes it would have probably been easier in the long run, but then I wouldn't have had all the fun upgrading piece by piece...

One of the few cars I had that I wish I had back was my '68 Cougar xr7. Had the 302 with a factory 4 speed. Boy I miss that car...

Me too. and the gift certificate is better than the $5 coupon since the gift cert can be used with a free shipping coupon.

It's not the 50 year old car that's the problem - it's the 52 year old owner. I've redone everything on this already. The body is all redone, the entire driveline has been replaced or rebuilt, the interior completely replaced, the entire suspension built. The only thing stock is the basic exterior appearance, everything else has been modified. Now I'm just playing.

Long story on that one. When I got the car it was a rolling chassis with a short block in it and the Edelbrock RPM kit in the trunk. I put it all together and drove it but it never really had the power I thought it should. I dug into it and it turned out the compression was something like 7:1. So I got the bright idea to change out the pistons, which I did for some forged flat tops. I bought the pistons and pulled the bottom end to get everything balanced. Found out the crank was pretty scored up on one of the bearing journals, so bought a crank. When they were balancing everything I asked them to change the rod bolts to ARP. In the end I have a rotating assembly that I've pretty much replaced everything, all because I wanted more compression. Back then the 347 kits weren't common, and the ones out there had ring problems with the compression ring intersecting the wrist pin and not sealing well. And I was trying to be cheap. So now I have a rotating assembly that is all set to go. As I'm putting everything together again I noticed something odd at top dead center - Half the piston was in the hole and 1/2 was out. Turns out the block had been decked cockeyed. So I buy another machined block and transfer the bottom end over. Now I've got a completely new engine with the exception of the rods, and those have been upgraded. It would have been so much easier to get a stroker kit or a crate motor. Lesson learned (until now I guess). Now, I thought it would be a fun project over the Christmas break to convert to the roller cam. How hard could it be? Lots of folks have done it I figured, and I can do a cam swap in an afternoon. A cam and tie-bar lifters should do it. Well, it only works that way for the magazine builds. Turns out the heads need to come off to install the tie-bar lifters, which means the upper end needs to come off and the headers need to come out. So far I'm into this swap for the cam, lifters, pushrods, valve springs, valve keepers & retainers, the valve spring compressor, head gaskets, intake gaskets, header gaskets, a header stud kit, a new front cover, front caver gaskets, water pump, timing chain and some heater hoses. I still need to pull the oil pan so I can install the front cover, which means I need to drop the steering linkage. The good thing is everything is clean and comes apart since I've rebuilt the car several times over the years. Want a hobby more expensive than guns? Try cars...

For you muscle car guys: The backstory - I'm doing another engine buildup for my Mustang. The motor is a 302 .030 over, flat top forged pistons, stock stroke, Edelbrock aluminum heads, etc. The reason for the build is to convert the cam to a roller. I have most of what I need. I pulled the heads to install the tie-bar roller lifters and have the new cam and lifters installed and the heads back on. If it matters I installed a roller thrust washer on the cam retainer, replaced the valve springs and retainers to match the cam. I've ordered the correct-length pushrods. The cam is a Howards grind with 225/231 degree duration at .050, with .533/.544 lift on 112 center. I should pick up some vacuum at idle and hopefully a couple horsepower over the flat-tappet grind I had. A couple of choices I still need to make: Do I use a gear drive on the cam or a chain? I have both. I've searched the web and the power difference is negligible, the difference seems to be the noise. The choice seems to be a religious decision based on some of the forums I've viewed. Anyone here have any experience? Do I use aluminum roller rockers or stainless steel? The aluminum ones I have now seem fine, but with the extra pressure from the springs some more strength can't hurt. But the old motor loved to rev. With the heavier lifters and springs I'm wondering if even more weight in the rockers will matter. Either will be the stock 1.6:1 ratio. I know there are a couple of Ford fans out there... Thoughts?

Just got me email - "Sold Out and No Longer Available". Oh well...

Ordered along with some .45acp. Haven't gotten an email yet but I'll be shocked if the 9mm ever ships. Must be a mistake.

Thanks

Thanks

My "other" hobby...

Went with my son yesterday. Took the following: Sig p220 Sig P227 S&W 1911 Scandium Kimber 1911 Pro Carry CZ 85 Beretta 92FS I had an off day. He kicked my butt!

I remember a lot of those places, but I grew up in Lake Hopatcong across from Bertrand's Island. Anyone else remember when the roller coaster burned down? I sat on our dock and watched it that night. Never rode it again. And drinking at the Final Exam. Those memories are a bit hazy... And now I feel old.

Pictures worth 1000 words. First was right after Christmas after I installed the new wheels. The second is how far I've gotten changing out the camshaft this week, converting to a roller grind. I call it a hobby, the wife calls it an obsession. She'd probably be happier if I just went and had an affair. It'd certainly be a lot cheaper plus it would get me off her back for a bit.