Scorpio64

Only if you are going to leave it there. If you remain on premises and they do it while you wait there is no transfer. Engraving is not gunsmithing so the engraver does not need a FFL.

I recently use Perry's Trophy Shop in Long Branch (very 2A friendly) to engrave the magwel of a stripped AR lower. You can call them and ask if they are able to do what you want or try another trophy shop. Earth Treasures also does laser engraving but I cannot verify if they will engrave firearms components.

You would be surprised at what you would shoot if you were hungry enough.

Linseed is a bit of work but it compliments the classic look of the lever gun like no other finish. It also can't be compromised or scratched up like clear coat. just say'n.

I've never seen ugly furniture on a JM 39. Are you going to give it a linseed rub?

Peel, how long have you been on this forum now? Have you learned nothing?

Somehow, a gov't bureaucracy would find a way to charge you a fee... clean air act, permit to burn, yada yada.

Index finger, hunt and peck. auto-fill.

Sorry man, but paying $400 to kill a destructive animal that is costing farmers thousands every year, and only getting worse, is like the exterminator paying me to come and kill vermin in my home. My mama (rest her soul) taught me that a fool and his money are easily parted and she didn't raise a fool. EDIT: I just noticed that this is a fundraiser, so, okay, maybe I jumped the gun a little. I have participated in discussions on national forums about the problem of wild boar. These bastards need to become extinct, like yesterday.

This will be a huge factor. If you shoot .243 or .308, reloading may not save you a lot of money, but it will absolutely give you an extra edge on accuracy. If you decide on 6x47 Lapua or 6.5 CM, you will find lots of good factory match loads but they are mucho dinero, reloading will give you an extra edge and save you a pile of cash too. Naturally, the more you shoot, the faster you will recoup your investment in reloading equipment. Other things to consider, .243 and 6mm are the same bullet so reloading 6mm Lapua will cost about as much as .243 after the initial investment in brass. Relative to .243, you will save more. 6.5CM is probably as middle of the road as you can get when you factor cost, ammo availability, performance and recoil. btw, though 6.5CM has gained popularity over the past few years, 6.5mm has been around for ages. I wasn't joking about 6.5mm Swede, it's like the 30-06 of Scandinavia and still the most popular for hunting there. Swede ammo costs about half that of CM. The Swede 6.5 has a high BC and performs very close to 6.5CM, but you won't find a Rem 700 or RPR chambered in Swede. The 25's are pretty good too, 257 Roberts, 25-06 and .257 Wby Mag are great performers but rifle and ammo selection will be limited. As much as I hate to say it, go with 6.5CM if you can afford to, all the cool kids are doing it. Otherwise, go with the tried and true .308.

7mm-08 is not the same as 7mm Rem Mag. Here's a great recoil chart. http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm Those magnum rifles are not pleasant to shoot and are generally long range big game or anti material. I'd think twice about going full retard on power.

.243 for precision and economy. 6.5 CM for superior ballistic performance but $$$$. 50BMG if you don't mind driving 6 hours to a 1000 yard range and are living off a trust fund. Pluses, kills big trucks, minuses $3.00 and up per squeeze. 6.5 Swede if you like milsurp rifles and reasonably priced ammo. 7mm Rem mag, don't know shit about it but it's powerful. 300 win mag if you have good health insurance and a good orthopedic doc to reattach your shoulder. Or, just get a 308 and have fun. .308 is actually pretty good. Every caliber is a good caliber for something. You really need to decide on what that something is, how much cost you are willing to incur and how much physical pain you can endure.

So, for two to three times the cost of a fully dressed pig from a butcher, we get the privilege of killing a destructive species for just just $400 a hog. Thanks, I'll pass.

More like Speed. He can't go below 50mph.

Tell them you will switch to, cable, tin can and wire, become a Luddite, whatever.... you will have to listen to a low level cs rep's schpiel blah blah blah, they will offer to shave $5 $10 but nothing close to a competitors introductory offer (or a fair price). When they are done, tell them to schedule an appointment to have the equipment removed, bam... you will be invited to speak with someone from the magical customer retention department. they are the only ones that can offer you a good deal. You will still have to be on your game, they are not going to offer $99 internet/cable/phone without a bit of sweating it out. Make THEM sweat it out. it's a pain in the ass game of chicken, but you will always win. I have saved thousands over the years doing this.

jack and jill went up the hill to fetch a pail of antifreeze. So, what's the verdict, did you figure out what the problem is?

How can you throw a 20 at something that does not exist? btw, most innovations come from hackers, not computer hackers but people who think like engineers and have a need and design something simple and free, or cheap, to fill that need. It's a win-win. you get to drink a bottle of wine and also not have your mini shells flipping around on you. git 'er done.

Bet you could accomplish the same thing with a trimmed cork from a wine bottle.

Well, it's true. I'm just basing my guesses from my own experiences. There are bunches of other things that could be the problem that only an expert can diagnose. (but i'm probably still right )

One of the actual experts should be along shortly. #3 should really be #1.

My money is on air in the system or a clog in the system. Needs to start with checking coolant level.

antifreeze/coolant runs through the radiator the engine and the heater core if heat is turned on. It is prevented from moving through the circuit by a thermostat, that is actually a heat activated valve, when the engine is cold. There is also a reservoir that holds "extra" coolant. That is where you can check the coolant level by eyeballing it. When the coolant heats up it expands and some of it may bleed off into the reservoir, that's normal.