Alright, right up front: I'm one picky dude. Show me a product and I'll probably give you two or three reasons why I don't like it.

 

Right now I'm running a Fenix TK22 on my AR, but I want something better for the application. I'm concerned about the reliability, need a better interface, and want to run a tape switch. I'm not usually the kind of person to be super frugal with purchases, and I'll pay more to get a quality product, but really Surefire!? Over $400 for a light that puts out 500 lumens!? Shove it where the sun don't shine. I'm not stupid. Call me when when you're done making stupid watches and decide to make products people actually want to buy.

 

Is there any other manufacturer that puts out a light that can use a tape switch with a decent output (500+ lumens) without raping my bank account? Obviously reliability and weapon mountability (that's a word now) is a must. Only light I see is the FourSevens Maelstrom, but I was hoping for something a bit more compact and lightweight. Fenix is out of the question as I need to investigate some reliability issues.

I don't have an input besides that a foursevens quark 720lum model is my edc and I love it

 

 

This signature exceeds the 15 character capacity

I don't have an input besides that a foursevens quark 720lum model is my edc and I love it

 

I've had nothing but good things to say about FourSevens. I have a Quark X AA² and it's the best damn flashlight I've ever owned. 280 lumens with two AAs. It's a few years old and I haven't seen another light which can come close. Balls to the wall reliable, too.

 

Part of me just started thinking that this topic was kinda rhetorical. The new Maelstroms have a 900 lumen burst with all the bells and whistles you'd expect, while running on two CR123s. I just wish it was smaller. I'll probably get it.

Why is he tape switch a necessity?

Why is he tape switch a necessity?

 

Honestly, it's not, but I'd like to have a light activation switch in a neutral position on the rifle so I can use it with either hand. I don't have a problem with push-buttons, so long as they're like the HSP WMLs in that they're momentary only.

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=2386

Whoops. Oh momentary only. Nvm.

This is pretty petty, but Surefire as a brand just pisses me off. I think they're overpriced and underpowered. A lot of their line is dated and I just get this sense of arrogance from them. I'd like to avoid them if I can.

I get what your saying but you can't beat the fury line with a stick. The one I linked is 500 lumens and HE got a 1000 lumen (also EAG branded) for under 200 I think.

I'd get a Surefire Fury and call it a day.  I know the guys at EAG are running them without issue.  

I get what your saying but you can't beat the fury line with a stick. The one I linked is 500 lumens and HE got a 1000 lumen (also EAG branded) for under 200 I think.

 

Yeah, but the 1000 lumen model is a 3-cell while the Maelstrom is a 900 lumen 2-cell with more modes and is tape-switch compatible. 500 lumens these days is good but it's not great. The Fury isn't bad, but I take the Maelstrom over it any day.

 

See what I mean by me being a picky dude!

 

Olight M22. 950+ lumens. 300 yard illumination on high. Tape switch accessory available. I love my M22.

 

Run it with 2 CR123s or 1 18650 rechargeable. 

 

My $0.02: Surefires are far brighter than their published lumen numbers. The TIR lens plays a big role in their output/beam shape. However... they are overpriced. For a long time no one could match their quality, and at that time I gladly paid the money for a basically indestructible bright flashlight. NOW... other companies are upping their game with regards to quality and their prices keep dropping. They still make great flashlights, but I find fewer reasons to buy one. 

Olight M21 or M22 models might meet your needs.  I know my M21 came with a remote switch, though I do not use it so I'm not certain if it is momentary or on/off.  My older model M21 outputs 600-650 lumens, I forget exactly, but it throws plenty far enough that targets can be easily ID'ed at 100+ feet.  M22 and current M21 came out a little after I bought my M21, and both the current M21 and M22 are also more powerful than mine...

 

I run an Olight M20 on my Benelli Supernova HD shotgun, I have been very happy with it.  I have an Olight T20 on my Stevens 320 HD shotgun for the time being, though I plan to get a different light for that in the future.  I might buy the M22 for general use, put the M21 onto the Supernova, and move the M20 onto my Stevens.

I vote for the Surefire EAG P3X Fury. You can get tape switches for them.

 

Why are you set on momentary only? After doing LE and SWAT work for the last 10 years I have discovered that momentary only sucks dog balls for any "social" gun work.

I vote for the Surefire EAG P3X Fury. You can get tape switches for them.

 

Why are you set on momentary only? After doing LE and SWAT work for the last 10 years I have discovered that momentary only sucks dog balls for any "social" gun work.

 

Where are the switches? I thought I looked on Surefire's website and swear I didn't see them. I was under the impression that Surefire did away with switches on all their flashlights as they "weren't designed for weapon mounted applications", keeping switches exclusively on their weapon-lights like the overpriced Scout and Millennium series.

 

I'm yet to see an interface that can make anything but momentary only work well. I hate tail caps with the press for momentary and click for on like on my TK22. Does Surefire use something different?

another anti tape switch vote... it is one more thing to go wrong... I know you are looking for something bright.. but I love the ergonomics of the inforce.. good luck with your search.. 

another anti tape switch vote... it is one more thing to go wrong... I know you are looking for something bright.. but I love the ergonomics of the inforce.. good luck with your search.. 

 

If they made a brighter WML I'd be all on it. 200 lumens is just too anemic for me. I love the design, though.

If you don't want a surefire, stream light is probably the next best thing. I have the Pro-tac HL, it's a great light, but assumable not as reliable as the surefire. But then again is nearly half the price. I liked it so much i picked up the head lamp version a few months ago for early morning trekking through the woods. I primarily use them on the low settings, but they will turn blackness into daylight and WILL cause temporary blindness. 

With an off-set mount it is very easy to use a tail cap and your thumb to operate the light, but you can get a pressure pad if you want. It does have both momentary and on, but a pressure pad would change that. In a long list of flashlights this was the one i found with the most bang for buck.

 

The biggest problem i have with surefire is long term value. Flashlights to me are something I buy for a couple years and replace with what ever is new. The last 10-5 years we've gone from max output 100lumens halogens, that were massive, to single Led 600 lumen pocket lights. Once the technology slows down i'll invest in something like a surefire.

Where are the switches? I thought I looked on Surefire's website and swear I didn't see them. I was under the impression that Surefire did away with switches on all their flashlights as they "weren't designed for weapon mounted applications", keeping switches exclusively on their weapon-lights like the overpriced Scout and Millennium series.

 

I'm yet to see an interface that can make anything but momentary only work well. I hate tail caps with the press for momentary and click for on like on my TK22. Does Surefire use something different?

I am pretty sure that the XM tailcap and any switch for a 6PX will work on the Fury line.

 

Still wondering why you are stuck on momentary only?

I am pretty sure that the XM tailcap and any switch for a 6PX will work on the Fury line.

 

Still wondering why you are stuck on momentary only?

I just haven't observed an interface which works well. If I could have a light which let me pick between momentary only and on/off independently, I'd be on board.

 

I thought Surefire disco'd the tailswitches for the 6PX. I can't read.

I am very happy with my Fenix PD35. 850 lumen under $100. What issues are you talking about?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

 

Damnit.

 

Well now I feel like a jackass. So I can get a Surefure Scout for about $300 and throw on the switch below.

 

 

I feel like a complete idiot.

200 lumens for 300 bucks?

 

a fury will get you 500 lumens and longer run time for 250 with a pressure switch.

200 lumens for 300 bucks?

 

a fury will get you 500 lumens and longer run time for 250 with a pressure switch.

 

The M600 throws out 500 lumens, too.

The M600 throws out 500 lumens, too.

I'm not sure what they cost, i was looking at MSRP on surefire site and it looked horrid.

Imo I'd still buy the fury and keep my $200

Damnit.

 

Well now I feel like a jackass. So I can get a Surefure Scout for about $300 and throw on the switch below.

 

 

 

I feel like a complete idiot.

For what it's worth.. I hated that switch

For what it's worth.. I hated that switch

 

Why's that?

Why's that?

 

I found that putting pressure on it to keep it activated in low light made me grip up with the support hand in an uncomfortable way.. maybe almost like too much pressure... with that said I am sure you could get used to it.. but not a fan at all.. and to be honest I really wanted to like it.. I had it mounted at the 12 oclock position on the rail... so it felt like it would work well, but got rid of it.. 

When I didn't know what I didn't know - I though tape switches for white lights were the heat, 3 point slings were the way to go, 60 blinding lumens were all I would ever need, and "full retard" was the only way to grab a vert grip. Looking back, not one of those assumptions were correct.

 

As I learned what it really means to fight with a rifle, I shitcanned them all with a quickness. Speaking soecifically of tape switches, they are fragile, complicated, fail at the worst possible moment, are not field repairable and add an extra layer of "Murphy" to your setup, especially if the only thing you are switching on and off is a white light. When you add the complexity of a DBAL/PEQ and IR illum to the mix, well then compromises have to be made so you can control everything with your offhand and still run the gun. That is a topic for another conversation, but even then the white light is set up without a tape switch and has a permanent on-off option.

 

Momentary only switches are good for one thing only, searching a large unknown and uncluttered space with a white light. Once you locate your threat and it turns from "searching for threats" to "fixing a known threat in a known location" a momentary switch is nothing but a problem. How do you run the light when shooting from asymmetric positions where you can't get that support hand out there to the switch? What do you do if one of your arms or hands in injured? What if you are carrying your kid, pet, wife, or neighbor with your "light hand"? How do you dial a phone to call 911 and keep your light on? You are now relegated to opening every door in the dark, since the hand that is grasping the door handle can't switch the light on. Reloads and malfuntion clearing - better practice in darkness. Self aid - better now how to treat your own wounds or wounds on others by feel. Did you ever try to actually shoot in darkness while keeping a momentary switch on? Strobe city brother - you get the blinks.

 

You can still use a "clicky" type switch as a momentary, it's how I run all of my guns. It is simple, fast, intuitive, robust, and it works.