Actually I got the lower parts kit from JoeBobOutfitters Put the trigger that came with it in a junk drawer and put in a RRA NM everything else amounts to springs detents and 2 levers ...... the kit I think was 65 with an A2 grip I didn't use and the afore mentioned trigger..... Also like I said, first build I did, first kit I bought, Out side the trigger seems the rest of the stuff would be pretty hard to screw up the manufacturing of, even in china

. You would think that until you've held nice parts and bargain bin parts side by side.

Hi guys, I'm very close to ordering the bcm what do you think of having them permenantly install a battle comp 1.5 ? So the only thing I'm not going to get is the handguard, does anyone have any suggestions where I should look for a reasonably priced one. Thanks again everyone. Holy cow does this add up.

if you are getting one with a rail already (over your $600) go for it. If not, look at what rails attach via the standard barrel nut AND will fit a cut down front sight gas block. It's not the prettiest gas block when you do that but it is arguably one of the most secure. Then there is very little money lost on the upgrade. If any rails like that appeal to you go for it. I know a lot of nice rails will

Hi guys, I'm very close to ordering the bcm what do you think of having them permenantly install a battle comp 1.5 ? So the only thing I'm not going to get is the handguard, does anyone have any suggestions where I should look for a reasonably priced one. Thanks again everyone. Holy cow does this add up.

Go for it. Battle comp is pretty well regarded. You should get a used moe handguard on the EE or here for now until you know what else you want to do. Fairly light, drop in, can add rails, and definitely not expensive. Are you getting mid or carbine length? I have a carbine length moe I could move along.

 

Go for it. Battle comp is pretty well regarded. You should get a used moe handguard on the EE or here for now until you know what else you want to do. Fairly light, drop in, can add rails, and definitely not expensive. Are you getting mid or carbine length? I have a carbine length moe I could move along.

thanks checko, I am getting the mid

I'm a fan of the battle comps.  I have one sitting on my desk for my 14.7" carbine I'm working on.  
"

John if you're looking at non-free floated rails, I would recommend the Midwest industries drop in rail for midlength.  I got one pretty recently and am very happy with it.  It's fairly light, feels very strong, and the lockup is excellent with no movement whatsoever.  I believe I paid around $140-150 w/ shipping included.

 

If it's not free floated, what does it buy you over a set of MOE

It's drop in rail.

It's drop in rail.

So is the moe?

 

The moe is the best answer IMO if you arent gonna hang a bunch of shit off the rails. I only have a vfg and a flashlight on mine.

Thanks again guys. So I figure when alls said and done my build cost me about $1100.do you think I could have done better buying a complete rifle? This question has always been on my mind

Thanks again guys. So I figure when alls said and done my build cost me about $1100.do you think I could have done better buying a complete rifle? This question has always been on my mind

You can certainly find complete rifles for less but will it have the same features as the one you're putting together? If you buy a complete rifle you'll almost certainly change things out eventually.

you have a bravo company upper with bravo company BCG.  any lower that is in spec with a colt LPK and ALG trigger.   really there isnt a crappy part on the rifle.  you did good. i don't think you would be able to get a similar one for less.  maybe about the same, or ones that look similar but aren't.  but you have a great first build.  

Agreed. Your rifle would (should) hold its own with any on the market

Finally ordered the bcm 14.5 mid with battle comp 1.5 perm pinned. Thanks for all the advice and wisdom everyone. And my colt lower parts kit and agt act trigger will be here monday.

So is the moe?

 

The moe is the best answer IMO if you arent gonna hang a bunch of shit off the rails. I only have a vfg and a flashlight on mine.

I didn't say good or bad. I simply said its a drop in rail in support of the post that said it wasn't a free float.

I feel a little embarassed but can you explain drop in rail?

It means it installs like the handguard. You wouldn't have to remove the barrel of gas block to install.

It means it installs like the handguard. You wouldn't have to remove the barrel of gas block to install.

thanks Rob

thanks Rob

Welcome.

Hi guys I want to order a buffer tube kit from bravo company, should I get the standard, h2 or h3 I prob will be shooting both 223 and 556 ammo not sure if this matters.

Start with standard. Move up to h2 if needed.

Start with standard. Move up to h2 if needed.

what would be the reason I would need the h2?

To make it a little softer shooting and increase the dwell time on your buffer. Possibly correct ejection issues but I don't think you'll need to worry about that

You probably won't need a h2 buffer anyway. Maybe an H buffer at the most

thanks checko

Err .. hmmm .. there are different school of thought on what makes a softer shooting rifle.   Making the recoiling mass heavier (by increasing the buffer weight) slows down the gun and can feel softer.  Decreasing the weight means less moving mass which means less muzzle movement which feels smoother.

 

My take is shoot the standard weight for your configuration and worry about that later when you know what you actually want and what those things do for it.

 

Personally, I'm definitely in the less weight is better world, the muzzle break controls the primary recoil, the moving components get lightened up to control the secondary recoil impulses of large bits of steel banging around.

 

Edited to add, the other thing that matters if how over gassed the gun is. The more gas the system is eating, the heavier you tend to go, the less gas the lighter. For example 16" barrels with carbine gas and sloppy gas ports can benefit from heavier buffers, midlength systems with a properly sized gas port are fine with middle of the road or standard buffers, rifle length gas systems with gas ports drilled at the low end of the spec or with adjustable gas systems can get away with really light buffers and carriers.

everything is a trade off.  ideally you'd want the least amount of weight with the least amount of gas required for your weakest used ammo, but when you add in other factors things change.  

 

how often will the gun be clean?

what happens to you if the gun short cycles or jams?

does more reliability matter or faster follow up shots or.....  

the list is endless

 

the only thing that is hard to argue is that the majority of lower end guns tend to oversize the gas port and use a carbine buffer because then you can use anything from NATO strength ammo to the cheapest bargain bin stuff and it will still go bang every time you shoot.

everything is a trade off.  ideally you'd want the least amount of weight with the least amount of gas required for your weakest used ammo, but when you add in other factors things change.  

 

how often will the gun be clean?

what happens to you if the gun short cycles or jams?

does more reliability matter or faster follow up shots or.....  

the list is endless

 

the only thing that is hard to argue is that the majority of lower end guns tend to oversize the gas port and use a carbine buffer because then you can use anything from NATO strength ammo to the cheapest bargain bin stuff and it will still go bang every time you shoot.

thank you, I was looking at the bcm, and it's a carbine buffer is this what I would us on a 14.5 mid length

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Stock-Hardware-Mounting-Kit-Mil-Spec-p/stock%20hardware%20kit.htm.

This was the one I was looking at, would this be correct for a 14.5 bcm mid length?

order that, but select the H buffer and you will be good to go.  thats the buffer BCM ships with their complete rifles.  my only suggestion is think of you want/need a sling and how you would like to attach it.  i run the noveske endplate but its easier to put it on now then it is later.  especially since you are going to property stake the end plate right?