Abs glue and cap

HVLP setup for home - any recommendations?  Looks like I'm going to be painting every wall and some ceilings in the place this year, along with some furniture.

I'm looking hard at this one, but definitely open to suggestions:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Graco-Magnum-Project-Painter-Plus-Paint-Sprayer-257025/204159335

I hope you didn't take the suggestion of using ABS glue on PVC pipe. Or joining ABS to PVC with glue or cement.

 

 

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Have used Titantool sprayers.  The are a fantastic sprayer.  It's all in getting the nozzle right for the paint/application.  They are not cheap though. 

14 hours ago, capt14k said:

I hope you didn't take the suggestion of using ABS glue on PVC pipe. Or joining ABS to PVC with glue or cement.

Nope, I’ve learned to disregard much of what falls out of Zeke’s mouth.

I used a fernco flexible cap instead to close off the drain pipe branch;

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Flexible-Cap-PQC-101/100372302

13 hours ago, T Bill said:

Have used Titantool sprayers.  The are a fantastic sprayer.  It's all in getting the nozzle right for the paint/application.  They are not cheap though. 

Thanks, will take look.

 

I Have the Graco X7.   I've painted my house several times with it(Both Additions).  Inside, out.  It has been perfect.  Always pump armor when you're done for the time.    Not every day, but if you're painting for a few weeks and it's going back into storage.  Stick to the .015 tips.  When I was applying primer here, I didn't realize I had a .013 in and the wood was really sucking it up.  I painted with a .015.    The .013 I used for some cabinets.

I borrowed a friend's X5 at one point about 7 years ago, bought the X7 in 2012 and the cart on the X7 is worth it.  Shrug.

 

 

 

27 minutes ago, Malsua said:

 

I Have the Graco X7.   ...

 

Thanks Malsua, I’ll check it out.

On 6/25/2018 at 10:29 AM, DirtyDigz said:

Nope, I’ve learned to disregard much of what falls out of Zeke’s mouth.

I used a fernco flexible cap instead to close off the drain pipe branch;

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Flexible-Cap-PQC-101/100372302

Thanks, will take look.

That’s not what I said..

Thanks, will take look.

Don’t want to use that either. Furnco is no good inside the house. Banded fitting is ok, but hard cap is better.


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Ok, what is a banded fitting or a hard cap, and how do I mount them on the PVC?

Ok, what is a banded fitting or a hard cap, and how do I mount them on the PVC?

Banded is kind of like furnco but double metal heavier duty. Furnco is illegal in home because he doesn't stop sewer gas which is the whole reason you capped it. Cheaper to get hard PVC cap, PVC primer, and PVC cement. Run primer around pipe, run cement around pipe, put cap on and give a slight twist. I prefer ABS but you already have PVC.

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Trying to prep against frozen water supply again this winter if we get another deep/prolonged cold snap:

Any recommendations on a brand or type of heat trace suitable for copper pipe that is self regulating (has a thermostat to turn on/off around a temperature point.)?

2 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

Trying to prep against frozen water supply again this winter if we get another deep/prolonged cold snap:

Any recommendations on a brand or type of heat trace suitable for copper pipe that is self regulating (has a thermostat to turn on/off around a temperature point.)?

Frost king - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-6-ft-Electric-Water-Pipe-Heat-Cable-HC6A/202262328

@DirtyDigz - OK, I apologize if you know all of this already, but I'm going to share some "common sense" tips I got from my plumber...

- at the beginning of the cold season, make sure you check the heat tapes themselves and any outlets that those heat tapes are plugged into to make sure everything is working OK.

- put a very visible tag that says "Do Not Unplug!" at the plug end of all heat tapes ... (too easy to unplug it throughout the year, and forget!) 

- be aware, heat tape is not foolproof. Like, I now have heat tape on some pipes in my basement, but the wrapped section is just a small percentage of the pipe's total area (2 of the pipes are running up to the second floor in a poorly insulated "chase" on an outside corner of the house - that's a lot of pipe unwrapped) So, if it's super-frigid and windy, I still drip the faucets out of an abundance of caution. 

- related to above, if you're going to be gone for a couple days or more in really frigid temps, what if your power goes out? If you don't have a reliable neighbor to help out in your absence, you might be better off just shutting the main off and draining the water before you leave.

That's what I've been told anyway... I am not a plumber! LOL. So, if any of that is bogus, I'm sure we'll have plumbers and other construction types jumping in shrieking: "Dumbass! WRONG!! That's so very WRONG!!".

Nick, thanks for the link - I’m aware of the Frost King/HeatIt brands.  What gives me pause about them is it seems 25-50% of the reviews on them indicate premature failure, but perhaps it’s just the “only unhappy people leave reviews” effect.  

I was curious if there was a “Pro grade” of heat trace out there that was a better quality than what’s in the big box stores.

Ms. Peel - thanks for sharing the tips, they all sound good.  I think last year’s deep freeze was a once-in-a-generation event.  When my water supply froze last year it was frozen all the way out to the in-ground water meter - the water company had to come out to get my water flowing.  I’m skeptical that heat trace could have prevented that, but I’d like to have an extra measure ready just in case.

I've had the Frost King one on my pipes for a year now... Turned it on again when we had the cold snap a couple weeks ago.  Still working, it seems.

Thanks again for the Frost King recommendation, Nick.

I installed that a while ago on the water supply line from where it exits the concrete to near the ceiling, added split foam insulation over it.

Went down this morning with an infrared thermometer to check on it.

Wall temperature - ~20 deg F.

Spread open the pipe insulation and checked the copper pipe in several spots - it was between 40 and 50 deg F.  Nice!

7 hours ago, DirtyDigz said:

Thanks again for the Frost King recommendation, Nick.

I installed that a while ago on the water supply line from where it exits the concrete to near the ceiling, added split foam insulation over it.

Went down this morning with an infrared thermometer to check on it.

Wall temperature - ~20 deg F.

Spread open the pipe insulation and checked the copper pipe in several spots - it was between 40 and 50 deg F.  Nice!

Nice.  Glad it's working out for you.  My co-worker just had frozen/burst pipes and has been dealing with it all day.  My pipes haven't frozen yet this season - I was getting worried about it but it's working great.

Just had plumbing work done to convert electric                           water heater and dryer over to gas tankless heater and gas dryer.

Now I’m starved for 110 outlets in the laundry room.

Can I convert this single gang GFCI outlet into a double gang to get 4 outlets?  Temporary measure until I can get another circuit run.

 

 

24 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

electric  water heater and dryer over to gas

Now I’m starved for 110 outlets in the laundry room

 

water heater and dryer are both on their own 220 corcuits,, you can split that to four 20A circuits.

2 hours ago, DirtyDigz said:

Just had plumbing work done to convert electric                           water heater and dryer over to gas tankless heater and gas dryer.

Now I’m starved for 110 outlets in the laundry room.

Can I convert this single gang GFCI outlet into a double gang to get 4 outlets?  Temporary measure until I can get another circuit run.

 

Yes.

Your dryer and especially the tankless should be on individual circuits in the future 

15 hours ago, DirtyDigz said:

Can I convert this single gang GFCI outlet into a double gang to get 4 outlets?  Temporary measure until I can get another circuit run.

Probably, depending on the loads you plug in. It looks like that gray wire is the washer, right? What's the black wire to? What else you plugging in? The dryer? and what else?

Gray wire is washer, black wire is tankless gas water heater.  Additional loads would be gas dryer.  I usually do just one load of laundry at a time, so would not use dryer and washer simultaneously.

Odds are, you'd be fine. Washers and gas dryers are regularly run on the same circuit. Check the rating on that tankless to see how many amps it draws. Just to light the flame takes very little power. If it has a power vent, it could draw a few amps.

Since you have the 4x4 box there already, to add a second duplex will be easy.

Got an outdoor faucet with an inside shut-off ball valve.  The outdoor faucet has leaked since I got the house, but I always had more pressing issues.

Took a closer look at it tonight - it leaks from the screw-on cap at the top as soon as I turn on the shut-off valve inside,  regardless if the outside faucet valve is open or closed.
 

2 questions:

- what is the top screw-on cap for?

- Do I just need to replace a gasket or similar on the bottom of the cap to stop the leak?

That device is a vacuum breaker but I don’t think they’re easily fixed

 

edit: not to say they can’t be fixed, it’s just usually easy enough to throw on a new hose bib

It leaks from the top cap when you turn the water off inside? That's odd. That is only with a hose attached?

The guts on these faucets are really long, so the action that shuts off the water takes place inside the warm house. The top cap breaks the vacuum so that water past the shut-off washer can drain out of the spout. 

 

9 minutes ago, Handyman said:

It leaks from the top cap when you turn the water off inside? That's odd. That is only with a hose attached?

Probably poor phrasing on my part.  There is a shut-off ball/lever valve inside the house.  If I shut *that* off, the outside faucet does not leak, because its water supply is shut off.

If I turn on the ball/lever valve inside the house so the outside faucet has water supply, then it will leak from the vent cap, regardless if the *outside* faucet is turned on or off, hose attached or not.

5 minutes ago, DirtyDigz said:

Probably poor phrasing on my part.  There is a shut-off ball/lever valve inside the house.  If I shut *that* off, the outside faucet does not leak, because its water supply is shut off.

If I turn on the ball/lever valve inside the house so the outside faucet has water supply, then it will leak from the vent cap, regardless if the *outside* faucet is turned on or off, hose attached or not.

So with the water main on and the spigot turned off, it's leaking form the top vent with no dripping from the spout?