Beretta 1301 Update

Got the barrel back from being threaded.. 

Magpul Stock
Aridus Stock Adapter
Mesa Shell Holder
Magpul Sling
Surefire Pressure Switch 
Nordic Extension
Magpul Sling Mounts
Homemade Light Mount
Surefire Scout Light
Barrel threaded by Rose Action Sports
Briley Chokes
blitzkrieg Front Sight (working on building a fiber optic option)
Opened loading port

 

Can I have it?

Why light on right, with pad on left? I’m assuming you’re right handed 

Can you post a pic of the loading port job?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

16 minutes ago, Zeke said:

Why light on right, with pad on left? I’m assuming you’re right handed 

Because I prefer to activate with my thumb.. I normally run my thumb high on the forend so it’s very natural to slide down to engage the switch..

As far as the light on the right.. I am right handed which means the bulk of my body is to the left of the gun.. so if I am shooting from behind a barrier I want the barrier to block my body but not the light.. running it on the right accomplishes that.. 

 

 

Just now, vladtepes said:

Because I prefer to activate with my thumb.. I normally run my thumb high on the forend so it’s very natural to slide down to engage the switch..

As far as the light on the right.. I am right handed which means the bulk of my body is to the left of the gun.. so if I am shooting from behind a barrier I want the barrier to block my body but not the light.. running it on the right accomplishes that.. 

 

 

Interesting. Thank you

4 minutes ago, Zeke said:

Interesting. Thank you

Also it keeps my sling and light away from one another which is an added bonus 

Just now, vladtepes said:

Also it keeps my sling and light away from one another which is an added bonus 

I’m right as well but light left. For the button. I can see the benefits ofswitching if I had the pad. 

Not arguing!!! Does 1” of light make a big difference left or right?

17 minutes ago, Zeke said:

I’m right as well but light left. For the button. I can see the benefits ofswitching if I had the pad. 

Not arguing!!! Does 1” of light make a big difference left or right?

Not if it’s right near the muzzle..

yes if it’s further back like on an oldd school carbine.. on on old carbine where muzzle is at 16in and light may only be at 7in due to a shorter handguard.. it’s easier for the light to end up behind a barrier when mounted on your weak side.. this is the same problem with 6 o’clock mount.. coming over the top of a barrier the light could easily end up behind the barrier.. 

if light is right near the muzzle then no it doesn’t really matter.. 

I prefer to not use a remote switch.. but with this gun.. due to the layout there was no better option.. 

Most of my carbines are light far forward no remote mounted weak side..

 

 

This, right here, is how you build a defensive shotgun.   Well done sir.  Bravo.  

9.5 out of 10

Switchology matters.

If you can’t operate your light intuitively, it’s in the wrong spot. 

If I have a tape switch, I prefer light on the right side - think 1 o’clock if the front sight is noon. I then like to mount the tape switch (preferably a switch with both constant and momentary on abilities) where my support thumb (I’m a righty) can easily reach it and my right thumb can also reach it if necessary. 

If I don’t have a tape switch and am using a clock tailcap, then the light goes at 11 o’clock so my support had thumb can activate the light using the switch on the ass end of the light body. My right thumb can still come over the top and activate the light of necessary (if I switch shoulders).

1 hour ago, Zeke said:

Why light on right, with pad on left? I’m assuming you’re right handed 

 

25 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

Switchology matters.

If you can’t operate your light intuitively, it’s in the wrong spot. 

If I have a tape switch, I prefer light on the right side - think 1 o’clock if the front sight is noon. I then like to mount the tape switch (preferably a switch with both constant and momentary on abilities) where my support thumb (I’m a righty) can easily reach it and my right thumb can also reach it if necessary. 

If I don’t have a tape switch and am using a clock tailcap, then the light goes at 11 o’clock so my support had thumb can activate the light using the switch on the ass end of the light body. My right thumb can still come over the top and activate the light of necessary (if I switch shoulders).

 

I know dis.. that’s why I asked 

1 hour ago, Purple Patrick said:

Can you post a pic of the loading port job?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

sure 

 

27 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

Switchology matters.

If you can’t operate your light intuitively, it’s in the wrong spot. 

If I have a tape switch, I prefer light on the right side - think 1 o’clock if the front sight is noon. I then like to mount the tape switch (preferably a switch with both constant and momentary on abilities) where my support thumb (I’m a righty) can easily reach it and my right thumb can also reach it if necessary. 

If I don’t have a tape switch and am using a clock tailcap, then the light goes at 11 o’clock so my support had thumb can activate the light using the switch on the ass end of the light body. My right thumb can still come over the top and activate the light of necessary (if I switch shoulders).

 

right.. tape switch.. push button.. its always my weak thumb.. shotgun carbine.. whatever.. 

You need a longer tube and a match saver. 

You have to be able to hold 12 in the tube and you need to practice using the match saver (with a dummy shell).

You will lose count a lot your first season, the match saver helps, (A LOT).

The light will probably break off the first time you go to dump it. Check your slug zero, almost all clamps like that will change your slug zero every time you take it off and put it back on for cleaning. Shooters source has a front qd that replaces one of the rings behind the nut so no clamp needed.

 

23 minutes ago, louu said:

You need a longer tube and a match saver. 

You have to be able to hold 12 in the tube and you need to practice using the match saver (with a dummy shell).

You will lose count a lot your first season, the match saver helps, (A LOT).

The light will probably break off the first time you go to dump it. Check your slug zero, almost all clamps like that will change your slug zero every time you take it off and put it back on for cleaning. Shooters source has a front qd that replaces one of the rings behind the nut so no clamp needed.

 

I have a match saver.. if the light breaks I’ll be shocked LOL 

the shell carrier is on its way out.. I just didn’t get rid of it yet.. I had it off but put it back in when I went to the range the other day..

It still not usable for any kind of 3 gun shooting.. I need to solve the sight issue it’s still too slow.. it’s VERY accurate.. but slow.. I think I’ll have it solved in about a week..

Hold 12 in the tube?? That’s crazy.. LOL 

 

 

love it, well done

1 hour ago, vladtepes said:

I need to solve the sight issue it’s still too slow.. it’s VERY accurate.. but slow.. I think I’ll have it solved in about a week..

Aridus CROM Mount with Aimpoint T1

https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/beretta-1301-tactical-aimpoint-micro-crom/

8 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

Aridus CROM Mount with Aimpoint T1

https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/beretta-1301-tactical-aimpoint-micro-crom/

I am working on a similar solution.. I am going to cut the top ring off the ghost ring so its just a U and then instal a fiber rod in the factory front sight.. I already built the front sight just waiting for the rod.. 

then I will sight it in like adjustable pistol sights.. it will be marginally less accurate I think.. but it should be faster.. 

https://www.cabelas.com/product/HiViz-CompSight/740458.uts?slotId=3

This is the sight that pretty much everyone uses, comes with a lot of different sizes and colors to find what fits you. It's about 50/50 of the field running a rear sight, I never saw the need for it. I might be a hair slower on slugs but my shot shots are really fast and I rarely miss flying birds. Rear sights are not good for flying birds. If you run a red dot on your gun you will be in open division and at a serious disadvantage without either a mag fed gun, a speed loader system or an x rail (witch rarely run)

You need to be able to shoot the sg really fast, just sweep through the targets because loading the sg is slow and kills your time.

The side saddle thing isn't really an issue, it's not useful but it won't hurt to have. Meaning if you load from that on the clock your wasting time BUT, in the very likely case when you forget to put shells on your belt witch everyone has done at least once, you will have a few shells on the gun to load so you will get less failure to engage penalties. 

12 round tube is pretty much standard for non open divisions. Almost every match starts with 9 in the gun so depending on the stage you can throw a quad in at the buzzer. Jersey start's with 5 in the gun and most matches don't care what you do after the buzzer but quinton we have some rule nazis (not me) so you have to shoot the gun before you can load it and there is plenty of movement between array's so there is no advantage to holding more that 6 in the tube. 

Really Nice Job !

2 hours ago, louu said:

https://www.cabelas.com/product/HiViz-CompSight/740458.uts?slotId=3

This is the sight that pretty much everyone uses, comes with a lot of different sizes and colors to find what fits you. It's about 50/50 of the field running a rear sight, I never saw the need for it. I might be a hair slower on slugs but my shot shots are really fast and I rarely miss flying birds. Rear sights are not good for flying birds. If you run a red dot on your gun you will be in open division and at a serious disadvantage without either a mag fed gun, a speed loader system or an x rail (witch rarely run)

You need to be able to shoot the sg really fast, just sweep through the targets because loading the sg is slow and kills your time.

The side saddle thing isn't really an issue, it's not useful but it won't hurt to have. Meaning if you load from that on the clock your wasting time BUT, in the very likely case when you forget to put shells on your belt witch everyone has done at least once, you will have a few shells on the gun to load so you will get less failure to engage penalties. 

12 round tube is pretty much standard for non open divisions. Almost every match starts with 9 in the gun so depending on the stage you can throw a quad in at the buzzer. Jersey start's with 5 in the gun and most matches don't care what you do after the buzzer but quinton we have some rule nazis (not me) so you have to shoot the gun before you can load it and there is plenty of movement between array's so there is no advantage to holding more that 6 in the tube. 

That style front sight is what I am after but the gun currently has a front tower so I have to work around that.. my presence would be a single fiber front sight but I can’t go back in time and fix.. so I have to modify.. LOL 

3 hours ago, louu said:

... loading the sg is slow and kills your time.

Not if you practice 

The shotgun Mr. @vladtepes had built is NOT a competition shotgun.  His is designed for real world use.  

2 hours ago, Pew Pew Plates said:

Not if you practice 

Practicing's dumb, that's why I load from the ground. 

Hi vlad, can you assit me with the Nordic MXT +2 extension install? So I unscrewed the OEM cap and then popped off the plastic cap that retains the spring in place. Am I supposed to do anything with the follower other than to just leave it in place? Well, then I removed the OEM spring and set aside the stock plastic rod that comes with the shotgun. I then removed the OEM spring and proceeded to install the Nordic spring. Then I measured off the 16" past the installed Nordic tube end and trimmed the spring then crimped the end inwards as recommended. I then just stuffed the spring down and screwed on the new Nordic extension tube. I am assuming that I was not supposed to re-insert the OEM plastic rod, correct? You help with this install would be tremendously helpful as the instructions are not terrific and there's no video available for the specific 1301 install. Thanks.

-TRPC_SHOOTER

17 hours ago, TRPC_SHOOTER said:

Hi vlad, can you assit me with the Nordic MXT +2 extension install? So I unscrewed the OEM cap and then popped off the plastic cap that retains the spring in place. Am I supposed to do anything with the follower other than to just leave it in place? Well, then I removed the OEM spring and set aside the stock plastic rod that comes with the shotgun. I then removed the OEM spring and proceeded to install the Nordic spring. Then I measured off the 16" past the installed Nordic tube end and trimmed the spring then crimped the end inwards as recommended. I then just stuffed the spring down and screwed on the new Nordic extension tube. I am assuming that I was not supposed to re-insert the OEM plastic rod, correct? You help with this install would be tremendously helpful as the instructions are not terrific and there's no video available for the specific 1301 install. Thanks.

-TRPC_SHOOTER

Unless it's different than the comp, no, you don't need rod anymore.

By the way, they recommend 12-16" out of an abundance of caution.  If you find it loads too stiff or won't release a round when you hit the release button, then you can trim that spring waaaaaaay down.  I bought a couple of springs to test one to failure, I didn't get a failure until the spring was about 0.75" protruding from the end of the tube.  I settled on 1.25" protruding, a 50% cushion, and I saved the old one as a gauge.

Wow, that is a lot shorter than the range they recommend. BTW, i sent them an email and they responded that the OEM spring will work if its the +2 extension for the 1301 tac. Thanks for chiming into a rather old string. 

I still lust for a 1301, but not enough to spend Beretta dough on one. 

Was lucky that I purchased one awhile ago. Prices have definitely gone up a bit since then. Got mine pretty close to the vlad setup, just with out the sling and light.

really sorry I missed this.. as stated the rod is not needed.. 

@TRPC_SHOOTER