GRIZ

A lot of people think Colts are the Holy Grail of revolvers. I'm not one of them. Colts are nice guns but being they aren't in production most people want premium prices. Your best bet is a new Ruger or S&W. For a smaller revolver look at the Ruger SP101. J frame 357s are not a lot of fun and they will undoubtedly shoot loose faster than a L frame S&W or GP100. I carried a 640 for a few years and used to carry it with +P or +P+ as you're not losing a lot in such a short barrel and gain a lot of control. If you get a 4" GP100 or L frame S&W you have just about the best all around handgun going. IMO the Ruger is more rugged and the S&W has a slightly better trigger. I would not advise a K frame S&W as it won't stand up to a constant diet of 357s. If you can find a Ruger Speed/Security/Service 6 its a much more rugged gun than a K frame but the same size. I have a couple of Taurus 357s I have had no problems with and a lot of rounds through them in over 20 years of use. I have limited experience with Charter 357s. I have a 38 that's okay but prefer a Taurus over the Charter. I have limited experience with Rossis but the ones I've seen that are shot a lot have timing problems and that's 38s. I'm guessing 357s would be worse. That's my experience. Others will differ.

Bring copies of the NJ COE with you. It's a good idea to have them but I've never had an out of state FFL ask for them. The COE is a NJ form that the out of state FFL really doesn't have to maintain (although some will). I am sure if you went into a store in another state that was not "contigous" with NJ they will not sell to you Not so. At least in CO and MD. I think Wal Mart has a "contiguous state" policy. Some states haw "contigous states" laws in that residents of that state may only purchase in bordering states, and residents of bordering states may purchase in that state These are left over from when states changed their laws to come in compliance with the GCA of 68.

WD40 sucks. For some purposes it does, but to displace water its great. blow with compressed air You missed the part where I said to blow the WD40 out with Gunscrubber. Air will work but if you don't have a water trap on the air line you'll leave moisture from the air tank on the gun. By the way, all this windex voodoo about nuetralizing salts is crap. Ingredients in windex = water and ammonia plus blue food coloring As I said there is no magic to Windex. The only reason windex works is because its mostly water. I believe it no longer contains ammonia but still is mostly water. Ammonia is a gas. What we refer to as ammonia is household ammonia which is ammonia gas suspended in....ready for this....water! Juilian Hatcher details in "Hatcher's Notebook" under "removing corrosive salts" how this magic of ammonia came to be. In short, they found nothing better than water to remove salts but many found it "objectionable" to clean their firearms with water. I mean we try to keep water out of our guns! Chemists looked for an answer and the chemical makeup of ammonia is similar to water and household ammonia is mostly water. So they told everyone to clean their guns with household ammonia, after all it is a cleaner (and they don't realize its mostly water) and it smelled bad enough to be able to clean guns. Ammonia doesn't do it better but was accepted as more politically correct to gun people. One of the problem with preventing rust after shooting corrosive ammo is all the wonder lubes and cleaners on the market. Yes they are improvements over all the old stuff (Hoppe's #9, old formula GI bore cleaner, etc) but the difference is they were designed to remove corrosive salts. The new stuff isn't. Best article about it is at: http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006/alittlesalt/index.asp You'll see nothing does better than water and many of the wonder cleaners don't work at all.

Some say #9 is sufficient in itself Hoppe's No 9 will remove corrosive salts. Your redundancy is contributing to your success.

During the mid-1980s, the capacity of the rifle was reduced to a 15 round maximum limit, to meet New Jersey's firearms law for semi-automatic assault weapons. This date can't be right as NJ AW law went in in 1990. Even with the 15 rd tube if you use bullets that are shorter (like CCI Stingers)you can still get 16 in the magazine.

I sprayed Windex, use water to dissolve the salt and still rust on some spots. Its a pain in the a** to bring Windex and water every time I go shooting. Part of the problem may be how you're cleaning. At the range? i think the rust is being caused by the Windex and water left in your gun. There are a few things you need to try. First, cleaning a semi auto after firing corrosive ammo is hard because of all the nooks and crannies (gas tubes, pistons, etc.), but you can still do a thorough job. Clean at home. I have never seen a gun turn to rust within a couple of hours. It can happen but only in really high humidity. Field strip the gun. Detail stripping is not required[/u]. Forget the Windex. No magic ingredient and it is mostly just water and nothing works better to remove the salts. Use hot water (hard to do at the range). Hot water will dissolve the salts better and will evaporate faster. You can add a bit of detergent if you want to hold the salt in suspension. After you're done with the water cleaning you need to remove any water left in your gun . AFAIC nothing does this better than WD40. That's what it's made for. Conventionally clean removing the WD40 and any other gun with Brake Kleen or Gunscrubber. Lube well and you should be fine. It sounds more complicated than it is. I shoot corrosive in bolt actions all teh time and have no problem.

I don't believe I said anything about this being a one issue election I know you didn't say anything about a one issue election but many gun owners are fooled by the smoke and mirror politicians who "act" like 2A supporters.

I am pretty sure it is the same thing. The Bill of Rights is an integral part of the constitution, it cannot be ignored. Which is precisely why we have to be careful and not become one issue voters. There are many politicians out there that put on a charade of conservatism while the rest of their agenda is very much socialist. Need examples? In the 3rd Congressional District Adler wouldn't take a stand on national health care until just before the vote. He needs conservatives to vote for him so once the Democrats knew they had enough to pass it he was given "permission" from the party to vote against it. His vote against it had no result on the final outcome. That's why its called politics. The rest of the time he votes party line but he can say he voted against healthcare. The State Senator who brought up the "$500 Carry permit" is another. If you look at his voting record there isn't a tax or big government issue he can't vote for. He can bring up a "$500 carry permit" because: 1. he needs conservative votes and can champion himself as a 2A supporter 2. he know it has no chance of passing in NJ at the present time I brought up this senator's voting record on another forum and was advised by a moderator that the senator was "one of us (a 2A supporter" and his record on any other issue was not to be discussed. Another problem with "supporting the 2A in its presnt form" is it is ultimately the Supreme Court who will decide what it or any other amendment actually says. The 2A is important to me but not at the cost of everything else. A politician with a NRA A rating who's for higher taxes, big government, and more intrusion into your life vs one with a NRA B and is against all those things. I'll take the B rated guy any day.

The US Army is showing me that no sling kneeling is the best I retired after over 42 years active duty and reserves and the Army never taught using the sling in any position AFAIK. USMC does. I worked as a LEO for over 30 years, most of that time as a firearms/tactics instructor and have been to enough schools in the military and as an LEO training me with everything from handguns to howitzers so I know a little about shooting. I have also dabbled in competition shooting. I think a sling may or may not help a shooter. I find no benefit to me in using a sling kneeling. I shoot better standing using a sling but find I need to make windage adjustments with M1s and ARs. I only have used a sling in competition not in combat that I can remember(was concerned with a lot of other things). Many of the tactical slings if adjusted correctly will "sling you up" when you shoulder your rifle. . Looks to me like the military sling is dead especially for the 22 battle carbine AKA, AR's. If you're not a really good shooter a sling is not going to make you one. It might make you a little better. If you use it for shooting or not a sling is essential on any long gun for combat as you have to be able to free up your hands,

67GTOnut's thread about modifying his M&P by removing the magazine safety had some comments about the legal ramification of using a modified (removing a safety) firearm in a home defense situation. I've also read some similar posts about trigger work on a firearm. The only way I can see removing the safety would make a difference is in a unintentional discharge situation. Your opponent can bring up anything in court. As long as your attorney is equipped to counter it (convincingly to the jury), it wouldn't affect the outcome of the case. The fact you removed a safety could be brought up to show you had a disregard for safety. How the removal of a safety affected the final outcome is what your attorney has to focus on. Removing a magazine safety has a tactical reason but is doing so worth the explanation you may have to present in court? Back in the 80s I had a S&W M59 I carried at work and removed the magazine safety. Now almost 30 years later, I wouldn't dos so. Just avoiding something else to explain away.

Uh oh! I don't want a wall hanger, I bought it to shoot it ... can this be heat treated correctly now and made shootable? No wonder he sold it:angry: No. It can't be heat treated, the Army tried that long ago.

I'm not a fan of +P or +P+ moreso in semi-autos. I will use +P in K frame or larger revolvers or +P+ in 357 guns. Semi-autos are designed to work in specific pressure ranges. Guns will take the excess pressure from +P or +P+ for some time but my attitude is that if you feel you need 357 SIG velocities...get a 357 SIG.

The dealer said "it's not legal in NJ unless the criminal is firing HP bullets"...Now, I'm not exactly sure this is correct...nor am I qualified in the art of determining whether a gun has HP ammo loaded...is anyone into the art of mind reading? I'm going to say some of the things that already have been said but in a different way. 1. No where will you find something that says its okay to use HP ammo for home defense so don't bother to look. 2. It is legal to possess HP ammo in your home. 3. Your HD gun is legal and loaded with HP ammo. 4. A situation occurs when the use of deadly force is justified in your home and use your gun loaded with HP ammo, the shooting is 100% okay, justified etc. you will hear nothing about your HP ammo 5. Use your gun loaded with HP ammo when it isn't justified you will be charged with using the gun and using HPs.

I like Accurate 2230. It's a ball powder and meters through a measure accurately. I've been using it for over 20 years so I obviously am satisfied with results. It also works well in 308 Win and 30-30 and I've also got decent results with it in 30-06 (although I prefer A4064 for that caliber.

I would consider some form of optic that allows for a decent amount of magnification... guns aren't fun if you can't hit anything.. lol this way things will be dialed in for YOU.. A low or no magnification would work as well. Optics would put the target and sights (crosshairs) all on one plane. There would be no need to align front sight, rear sight, target, the scope does that for you. This would seem to be the easy answer.

I'm just kinda boggled that a DEMOCRAT proposed this... but oh wait.... it's for the money... nevermind. No one has seemed to chime in on the politics involved here. This Senator is from a predominantly Republican district. A quick check of his voting record shows he never saw a tax he wasn't in favor of or a tax cut he was against. If he wants to be re-elected he needs to champion a conservative cause. He throws this out, votes for it if it comes to the floor, knowing it won't pass, and can say he's for gun rights. if and when NJ becomes a shall issue state this guy will take credit for getting the ball rolling. Many are fooled by this and champion this guy as a 2A activist because he does this and owns two guns? Doesn't Feinstein, Boxer, and/or Pelosi have a carry permit?

Does anyone know of any gunsmiths or anyone else qualified to zero in rifles? I have several in need of such a setup, and I do not have the stands or expertise to zero them in, 2 at 50 yards and 2 others at 100 yards. Too many variables for someone else to zero in your rifles as has been said. Could you perhaps try to achieve a "mathmatical" zero by reviewing the pertienent caliber's ballistics data, then matching a 50 or 100 yard zero's anticipated point of impact when aiming at targets only 15 yards away? For just about any cartridge the difference bewteen 15 and 50 would be negligible. Have you fired the rifles at all? Can you hit a target at 15 yards with the 22? You might do better if you see an opthamologist or optometrist that undersatnds how you need to focus when shooting and have diffrent glasses made.

the range is off of massachusetes av. in lakewood. its the long dirt road you can see after the fire watch tower. and sorry for no caps, my shift keys are broken That's the old gravel pits that everyone used to shoot at up to the late 1970s or so. I used to go there on weekends and there were a lot of people shooting there. The police range was there with a sign that said keep out and as long as you kept out no one bothered you. The Lakewood PD would come by and as long as you had picked a good backstop they didn't bother you. I was out of the state in the late 70s and early 80s and when I came back they had no shooting signs there, only the police range. I was told that there were some guys shooting rifles (M1 carbines I heard) from the hip and some rounds went through someone's door some distance away. That was the end of shooting there. Make a generous donation during election season and see how things change lol. This I'd NJ pay to play baby! I don't think this would work as there is a lot of liability in owning a range. Even if you sign liabilty waivers there are plenty of ways someone can sue if they got hurt. There is also the problem that unless you have it manned by a RO during shooting hours someone will shoot up the target frames and other amenities. Another problem is periodic lead recovery which isn't cheap.

I live the reliability of a revolver mixed with the stopping power of the .410 shell. That's kind of over rating the 410. Not the caliber I'd pick for a fight. I usually advise people to get a 4" 357 revolver (S&W, Ruger, or Taurus). It's about the best all around handgun you can get and about the most versatile. Wide range of power levels available in factory ammo and if you master a DA revolver everything else is easy. Not too big to conceal but big enough to shoot easily.

The AW issues in NJ law apply only to semi-auto handguns. Not a semi auto, no stock (designed to be fired from shoulder), or detachable magazine it's legal.

Van Drew said the $500 annual fee — up from $20 every two years — would mean "tens of millions" of dollars in new state revenue. To reach the $10 million mark, 20,000 people would have to shell out the $500. $500? So like a lot of other things you can do something if you have enough money like be mayor of NYC or a NJ Senator or Governor. I have no problem with the state charging me to register my car, make me pay for a driver's license, etc etc all of which are money makers for the state but this $500 goes no where with me. How about a $500 fee to practice your religion, speak freely, or make the government get a search warrant to search you home?

With regard to false documentation...etc. I don't think you have been to China. I haven't been to China in some time but have seen and dealt with false documents from just about everywhere. I am well aware that once you get out of the US, Canada, and Western Europe everything, not just import/export, gets done with a bribe. Bribing someone overseas to get something done has nothing to do with filing a false declaration by the importer. Money laundering is money laundering and from what you described there is nothing to blame on the Chinese only "your agent", who may be Chinese. There are plenty of people in prison in the US, who belong there, who are there because they "were only doing business the way they do" in and with other countries. The averg income I posted is text book. It is an avg of all incomes. It will be skewed higher by the JP Mogans and Rockafellars of the day. I'm not taking time to research your claim but all of which shows you really need to select what type of figures you choose if you want to truly represent something. As a CFO I'm sure you are aware of how numbers can be juggled.

Hypothetically, If I buy a product from China that costs $1, I will have my agent in China record the cost as $8 on the invoice. I then sell it for $10 in the US and show a profit of $2 to the IRS. Meanwhile my agent in China wires $6 to my bank account in Germany or some other country and keeps $1 for himself for his assistance. As CFO of an import/export firm you know there are several felonies being committed here starting with overvaluation on the Customs declaration to money laundering. To suggest that all companies operate like this is very misleading to insinuate this is how US business works. The average income in 1913 was only 15k. 15k a year in 1913 made you pretty rich. The Vice President of the US only made 12K in 1913. Most people were lucky if they made 2K in 1913. Your basic information is very incorrect.

I detail strip every 5000 rounds , I enjoy taking them apart and reaasembling. That said I also only detail strip my 1911's . If that makes you happy fine. What I'm saying is there is no reason to do so if the gun is field stripped and properly cleaned on a regular basis.

When was the last time it was detailed stripped and cleaned thoroughly? Just be careful with the tiny sear spring and lever that are designed for Gold Cups they are easy to lose! ask me how I know I guess you gave the first reason I don't suggest detail stripping on a regular basis. If you are not 100% sure of what you're doing you can (and eventually will) lose parts, assemeble incorrectly or even damage your firearm. I can understand one wanting to detail strip to see how the gun works but there is absolutely no need to do so on a regular basis if the gun is cleaned properly after shooting unless the gun is broken. I have a Combat Commander I got slightly used in 1975 that worked fine, carried it as a duty gun for a few years, and the first time it was detail stripped was when it was rebuilt in 2000 after over 20,000 rounds. If I lock back the slide and release it with the lever, the hammer falls to half-cock This is a hammer, sear, trigger issue. This is what my Combat Commander started doing when I had it rebuilt. The lighter the trigger pull you want the more likely this is going to happen sooner. I like a 4-6 pound trigger on a 1911. If you "need" less of a trigger and you're not using the gun only for serious competition you're using trigger pull as a crutch and need to work on your basic shooting skills.