GRIZ

Agreed. It's a 10A issue that is on the side of the state. One would need to come up with a valid argument that the NJ not recognizing C&R interferes with the 2A.

Let's put one argument here in proper context. You are not shooting to kill. You are not shooting to wound. You are shooting to stop. If you shoot and miss and the bad guy throws up his hands and gives up or runs away you've stopped him. If he gets shot in the medulla oblongata he stops. The basic premise of laws allowing you to use lethal force are based on the concept the bad guy is doing something so bad they need to be stopped. What they are doing is so bad it doesn't make a difference if the bad guy lives or dies, they have to be stopped. That's it.

I agree. However, most people mount lasers as a crutch thinking it will compensate for poor sighting and trigger control.

Sorry, it always does work that way.

I understand your like of milsurps and have have my share of Mausers, Enfields, Mosins, K31s, and 03s. You're not mentioning that one of the things that helped us win WW2 was the fact we were the only country that had a semiauto battle rifle for general issue to the troops. The fact is most ARs are more accurate out of the box are than most bolt action milsurps.

There are a few more factors in deciding what type of action produces better accuracy. While there is an argument that bolt actions are more accurate than semiautomatic it's really not by much. There are other issues involving accuracy that haven't been discussed. You have to maintain your cheek weld when operating the bolt. Many people break their cheek weld operating the bolt. You also have remove your strong hand from its position in relation to the stock and trigger. A USMC sniper I know (been an instructor and multiple tours in Iraq and Afghanistan) told me he'd prefer having a left handed bolt gun although he's right handed. His rationale is that way he wouldn't have to move his strong hand or break his cheek weld to operate the bolt. All those issues go away using a semi auto. Both your hands and your cheek stay in the same place while the gun rechambers another round. My recommendation would be a 10/22 with a halfway decent scope. All affordable in the budget stated. I was shooting my 10/22 the other day and shot slightly sub 1" groups at 50 yards with cheap bulk 22 ammo. CCI Mini Mags were better. My 10/22 is stock and mounts a cheap 4 power scope. It's older than a lot of the people on this forum and has maybe a bazillion rounds through it. A better scope and ammo would no doubt cut my group size in half if I were interested in doing so. If you start with a 10/22 there are loads of aftermarket parts that are easily installed which increase accuracy. There are enough things, including after market receivers, out there where you can wind up scratch building a 10/22. A 10/22 capable of sub MOA groups can be done for a reasonable price. I see a 17 HMR as more of a specialist hunting round. Decent 22lr is less than half the price of 17 HMR and even match ammo in 22 is a lot cheaper. JMO

Really nice! I have one of the Brazilian contract guns no where near that condition but runs 100%. I used it for a bedside gun for a while.

How old is this issue? The owner of the firearms should have got them back when it was resolved. How was it resolved? The executor or administrator of the estate would be the one who has to get them back. They will probably need a lawyer to at least write letters. I don't think the police will just hand them over. That will probably cost more than the guns are worth. The easiest way to approach this is to have the executor or administrator of his estate contact the police to ask them what they want for the firearms to be turned over. That would be a start to see what needs to be done.

Don't think you'd blow your fingers off but they will be injured. I know the support hand thumbs forward works well but never adopted it because it puts your thumb by the barrel/cylinder gap. I use the same grip on revolvers and semiautos where my support thumb is holding down my strong hand thumb. This keeps all my fingers behind the face of the cylinder.

You need to contact the ffl so arrangements can be made to ship the gun. Fees vary. $25 is a reasonable transfer fee. Some ffls have high transfer fees as they don't want to be bothered with that. They rather have you purchase the gun from them.

I'm in. Depends on how my legs are,responding. Want to see @Mrs. Peel bust clays at 100 yds. With a 22.

Bill Jordan was a big proponent of the 22 Magnum when it came out and felt it would replace the 38 special as an off duty or backup gun.

I agree a 22 mag could be an option. It's doing more like 1300-1400 fps out of a 4". A less energy than most 38 special rounds but certainly nothing to just fluff off.

Still a lot to hang on to for many people IMO.

Don't think so @Zeke. If he has trouble racking a slide he would probably have trouble hanging on to a Shockwave. A GP100 in 38/357 is the right size and weight to mitigate recoil. Almost no recoil with 38s. Another possibility is a GP100 in 327 mag. The 327 mag in a 4" is a good defense round, it's a seven shooter, and if the 327 is too much recoil there are multiple calibers it shoots. Problem with the 327 is ammo is expensive compared to other calibers.

No fault is for medical expenses not property damage.

Zeke, not sure about this now but in the olden days we didn't write tickets for property damage only accidents on private property. @High Exposure what do they do now?

This is what happens when people don't want to report accidents to their insurance companies. You need to contact the insurance company you had at the time. Most likely somewhere in that policy is a time requirement for you to report the accident to the company. My daughter had a similar accident a few years ago. No injuries. A he said/she said case. Both reported to their insurance companies. My daughter's company paid her damage and the other driver's company paid theirs. Not worth the effort or expense for either company to argue with one another. That's how your situation most likely would have been resolved if you had reported it at the time of the accident. 8 months later with lawyers and courts involved your insurance company may not have any liability to represent you. You won't know until you contact them.

Just some of my observations on comments made here: 1. Any device that assists in racking the slide and not fastened to the gun is fine for the range but not such a good idea on a SD gun. Many people, more so those who don't handle guns on a daily basis, keep their SD SA in condition 3 with an empty chamber. If that's the case you can wind up with a pistol with an empty chamber in a SD situation. Or run back to find your slide racking device. 2. Another downside to relying on a slide racking device is if you have a malfunction. You'll find yourself with a jammed gun and no way to clear it. 3. I'm still of the opinion that a DA revolver is the best house gun for someone who doesn't handle guns regularly. Simple manual of arms. Yes revolvers have malfunctions. The most common is a bad primer and in a SD situation you just pull the trigger again. No determining what the malfunction is, no having to pull the magazine to clear. I guarantee you just about anyone can pull a trigger again faster that anyone can slap, rack, and pull a trigger again. Fewer steps too. There's the issue of the "long DA pull". I can't understand why a he man with with a plate carrier, the "proper" range attire, who regularly attends "tactical" firearms has an issue with a 10-12 lb trigger. Millions of old guys like me... and even women...have mastered a DA revolver. But one needs to work at it and too many are more concerned with instant success. There is of course people with medical disabilities and that is a different story. The wrong way to go about it is action jobs and lighter springs. A better way to approach is buy a gun with a wider trigger or have a trigger shoe properly installed. That's properly installed. That means it isnt falling off and doesn't interfere with holstering. The wider trigger spreads out the effort giving you a lighter pull. Not by Mr Kitchen Table revolversmith who'll do a 4 lb "action job" for you...that may or may not give you a gun that shoots sometimes. Small frame revolvers are out for this purpose. Although I can shoot one well I'd always prefer a 4" k frame or larger (you still can conceal that). 38 special will do fine but a 357 will give you a little more weight. JMO

Perfectly good reason. I think most of the people on this forum are like that. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. Just like a spare tire, fire extinguisher, life jacket, or parachute.

It's not just magazine capacity that bans M1 Carbine. It originally had only a 15 Rd magazine. Late in WW2 when the full auto M2 carbine was introduced a 30 Rd magazine was adopted to feed the full auto appetite. The M1 carbine is banned in NJ as "M1 Carbine type". That's why the new M1 carbines made can't be sold in NJ.

Note, if the gun bills get passed as they are now a semi auto 22rf with a TUBULAR magazine of any capacity will be legal in NJ.

Why did they ban the M1 carbine? No one knows for sure. A lot of people say it had something to do with the Newark Riots. My opinion is because it was a popular holdup gun in the 60s and 70s. Easier to get than a handgun and you could conceal under a raincoat. If you had a M1A1 with a paratrooper stock you could have all the evil features. You could register a M1 carbine, M1A1, or AR15 but less than 400 of all three rifles (according to my research) were registered 10/22 is okay in NJ as long as you haven't added and evil features. Right now a semi auto rifle with a tubular magazine holding over 15 rds is illegal in NJ. If the gun bills that got through the legislature aren't changed and get passed by the Senate a semi auto 22 rf with a magazine of any capacity will be legal. As far as other types of actions the Henry lever action is sold every where in NJ and can hold 21 shorts in the magazine. Never heard of any issue being made over it.

You've got plenty of good scope advice already. IMO 75 yards is the best distance to zero a 22 lr for general use. If you're shooting some type of target competition that's a different story. Most 22s really don't need much maintenance. Generally I just punch the bore a few times and squirting some CLP on the moving parts. Old tshirts make great cleaning cloths. They also make good patches. I can't remember last time I bought patches. Hoppes #9 is the best all around solvent. I use the old CLP with Teflon as a lubricant (not a great solvent AFAIC). G96 is old tech but works well as a CLP. The problem with petroleum based oils is if you store the gun for a period of time the oil gums up. It will wind up looking like rust.

It seems more like a zoning ordinance. I'll bet that 1000' from all the locations listed would leave no where to open a gun shop.