raz-0

Hmm MOAB may not be thermobaric, my reference may have had incorrect information. It seems that lots of folks report both it is and isn't. SO maybe? Dunno. If we go by majority of non self contradicting articles, it's a giant pile of h-6 in bomb shape and is not thermobaric.

Keep in mind the laws that apply to this kid are the ones that apply to you and me as well. Don't go rooting for stupid interpretations.

The Moab is a thermobaric bomb. I'm pretty sure there was lots of rapid oxidizing going on in those tunnels.

It's likely not the gun, it's you. First, cleaning the things are a PITA. I contributed to a guide that is still useful. You can find it here: http://zvis.com/dep/depcln.shtml Second, you need to shoot it a specific way. It's in the manual. In case you do not have that, it is here: http://zvis.com/dep/depmantmpl.shtml?/images/guns/depman/depman16.jpg The key points: DO NOT roll of the recoil, you have to stiff arm it or you can get short stroking, which can cause stove piping, failure to lock back, and failure to return to battery. DO NOT tea cup the mag, because of the design, it will jam. Also, if it is not locking back on empty, you should check the slide catch spring. PArt 37 in this exploded view. http://zvis.com/dep/depmantmpl.shtml?/images/guns/depman/depman15.jpg It can become unseated, and IIRC can't go missing without disassembly, but can cause problems when it isn't properly where it should be. That site also has an FAQ for lots of things.

All there steps for the trigger install is reduced to drop it in, insert the two pins. I believe the CMC trigger has c clips, so you would pop those on the pins once inserted.

They are legally the same. In most circuits that wouldn't stand up a bit. Ours is kind of stupid, but it'd still be the fast track to scotus.

Yeah, every quote and description of this tells me the stupid runs deep and painful with these folks.

While as a practical consideration, pretty much everything to date including breathing seems to be readily accepted by the judiciary as reducing your 4th amendment protections, so I would say yes.

Cmj, tmj, same thing.

Also known as a convex grind.

One undefined phrase was replaced with another. Same judges.

wtf are you talking about? The folk lore character, the marksmanship class, the anime? After hitting up the third search engine, there's apparently a johnny appleseed festival in PA that is timber sports. I'll assume that. In the futre, perhaps try more than a sentence. Racing axes are racing axes. They are typically thinner overall, with a hollow grind behind the cutting edge, but with the cutting edge usually a flat grind (but radiused along the curvature of the head). They may be double ground or chisel ground, although examples I have seen of the latter are IMO not named properly because the "flat" side of the grind is not flat, it's just not really honed and then some approximation of it is used for the angle reference for the chisel grind. Since they show up with a variety of axes, and they are given relatively clean logs of a consistent species in timbersports, you can find axes down to about "13 degree" angle. They may be shaving sharp, they may also have a toothy filed edge at that angle. You may also find double bevel sharpened axes at 15/30 to 20/40. They'll likely still be hair popping sharp, but that's not a proper shaving edge. Some may have a banana grind. Normal working axes will not have that broad a head with that thin a tper though and are completely different creates as far as care and feeding go. As to exact specifics of the grind in timbersports, you are getting into ergonomics, voodoo, personal preference, etc. My own personal preference for things choppy is a approach a nice 20/40 (20 degrees to the centerline, 40 degress from face to face) grind, convex and brought to a polish. But my chopping needs are mostly big knives or hatchets and I'm not using an angle guide, and I tend to err to the acute side in general, so... I'm probably not too far off a general purpose beginners timbersports grind.

Have you already been killed by those threatening you? No. Then it is not yet a serious threat. That should about sum up the judges on this.

I'ts gas operated. Feed it hard hitting ammo. It MUST have a covered base. TMJ, JHP, JSP. etc. FMJ with an exposed base will eventually lead the gas ports. Straight lead with RAPIDLY do it. At least in .357, magtech 158gr SJSP worked jsut peachy and gave me some of the longest runs between malfunctions due to fouling of any of the cheaper ammo.

An axe should not be shaving sharp. Because it is an axe. It should have a convex sharpened edge, and be sharp enough to bite when striking at a reasonable varieties of angles, but not so sharp it causes chipping, edge folding, and other premature wear to an edge. That is unless you are entering an axe in a competition for sharpness. Which is a thing, and in many of them one of the judging criteria is shaving. A good shaving edge is usually 15 degrees total. That's totally inappropriate for an axe.

No. I mean yes nordic, but the stock retaining doohickey is shoved pretty far down the tube, so factory capacity is more like 4.75 than 4. A +2 will get you 7+1 capacity. You want the +1 extension.

They are less popular here because of the dalcon shield. It was the three mile island of IUDs.

Your car stinks of smoke because you have the remnants of smoking in it. This pretty much applies to any stink, not just cigarettes. The only real fix is to get rid of the thing that stinks or to wait for it to cease being stinky. 1) Get a good glass cleaner and a microfiber cloth designed for cleaning glass. This will help with getting the tar off the windows, especially if you put osme muscle into it. 2) Get a good vinyl/interior cleaner and a microfiber cloth designed for cleaning glass. This will help with getting the tar off the other surfaces. 3) Vacuum out the car. Hit every nook and cranny. Hit up youtube and see if removing the vent inserts in your vehicle is easy. If so pop them out and vac in there too. If not, you may want to build your own attachment using some of the pipeline sized straws you can get at McDonalds, Dunkin Donuts, etc. This gets rid of the ash and other dry particulates of smoking. 4) Get a "dry" carpet/upholstery shampoo. The brand I went with last time I did this isn't around anymore, but hit up your favorite search engines and see what's for sale. As always, test on inconspicuous areas first. The carpet will be fine, but upholstery isn't carpet and YMMV. Use it as directed and vacuum out. The goal of this is to get the stickier bits of tobacco smoking (i.e. tar) out of the upholstery and stuck to the crap you vacuum up. 5) If you have a cabin air filter, REPLACE IT. It's full of that nasty shit. If your setup gives you access to more of the duct work, vac it or scrub it, pretty much anything you can do to clean stuff in there is a plus. If you are feeling bold, or you just know how to do it and it isn't hard, You can pull the fan for some decent access to the HVAC system in a lot of cars. 6) HEAT. This is less smoking specific, but more of a general de-funking thing. Lots of stinky things break down with heat. Take advantage of summer park that sucker in direct sunlight and bake the shit out of it. Even better, leave it running for a bit with the heater on if you can to make it worse. 7) Commence with re-stinking the vehicle. I've had good luck with leave in carpet deodorizers. I personally like the carpet fresh no vac foam called "super pet". It's a pretty amenable "clean" smell. I've even used it in the vents. I've also used the febreze "new car" scented stuff. Which works too, but I suspect that shit impairs your sense of smell rather than magically making odors go poof and too much can give me headaches.

The e-brake bit only helps if your car doesn't use the disk brakes for the parking brakes.

Well its ted. They have to kill a non throwaway character. The originals left are rick, coral, Maggie, Carol and Daryl. It won't be one of them more than likely. Tier one add ons left = michone. All the rest of the "core group" probably have 32 minutes of screen time to developing their characters so you care if they die. Outside of the major action this season, we have been watching the writers doing make up assignments for work they were to lazy to do the first time around. So they can claim a major character is killed off. That's my gyess. Unless they want to kill off Jesus or Ezekiel, which we'd probably care about more than any of the core group seat fillers.

I think taking the perspective that it is like a house and any trespassing is a breach of the property is not the right perspective for a publicly accessed facility.

To add to this, my mom was referred to them for issues with her wrists probably about 35 years ago by another surgeon who punched out of her case for being above his head.

The first series of minisodes in a plane were ok. It was simple and you didn't really have to remember the details to know what was what. The tunnel one is meandering with too many people, which makes it suck given the format.

Aluminum isn't really an appropriate material for a comp. If it is advertised a eliminating flash, it's probably not a good idea to use it here.

I'm pretty sure it's just some folks OCD about a loaded mag having the top round on the right side of the mag. when the AWB sunset occured, I converted some bushy 10 rounders to "15 rounders". Not wanting to make 16 rounders, most of them held 14 rounds. There were just some folks that caused inappropriate amounts of agita with becasue the top bullet was on the wrong side when full. When I explained that they weren't all the same even despite looking the same, you would have thought I killed their dog or something. Some folks are just walking talkin piles of bad-assery until their shit isn't lined up just so, and then it's the end of the world or something and you are a monster for not having it rustle your jimmies appropriately.