JackDaWack

I keep almost all of my mags full -1 round. And i keep stock mags empty that aren't used.

What a C*nt! Apologize my ass. We didn't do anything that warrants an apology. Sick of this garbage.

Where are you located?

Sorry that was too the OP not YOU!

They don't have any rifle's, so they buy sub machine gun's? Great idea! I would take a carbine over that.

"Do not focus so much on parts as you need to focus more on basic knowledge....prior to starting....." +1 You shouldn't even be thinking about buying equipment until you have a thorough understanding of the process.... We can talk brand names and quality and gear all day. Don't make a list just yet, get some good re-loading literature, figure out what you want to get out of your custom cartridges. Do you plan on doing pistol and rifle? The more you know about reloading the more focused your list of equipment becomes, and you want something that will serve as an investment. You can always use a single stage press, even if you upgrade down the road to a progressive you will probably still end up using it from time to time, especially if you load rifle.

Personally i wouldn't bother with one of those.... I would get a high quality scale(if you dont have one) and a Hornady power measure or something similar. Not sure which powder measure your using but typically its the type of powder that creates inconsistency if everything is properly clean, usually stick or flake powder, and certain powder measure's handle it better/worse. What powder are you using? I also fear scales and trickling and the drift effect, if your going to trickle on a scale you better make damn sure it can handle it. Not to mention these scale can take a while to actually measure out. I use a gempro to calibrate my hornady powder drop, and it throws very accurately. I never trickle on it although it can, i always re-set the stage when i add weight. First things first, make sure that powder drop is dry! I've herd people with similar issues getting powder stuck in the drop tube which leads to throwing a light load and then a heavy load. The measuring insert can be a hassle too if its the wrong size. Too big and you maximize the surface area contact of the powder and cylinder wall, which can cut the powder inconstantly. So use the smallest insert possible.

Did any of you guys send in for the bullet rebate? if so what was the turn around? I have 4 rebates between the press and dies i still need to mail in.

Not to mention the updated 37. We also sold a bunch of f-15's to Saudi Arabia, 30 billion in planes and parts.

Nothing states anywhere in NJ that a magazine has to be empty. NJ states no loaded firearms for transportation. Your clarity will be cleared up when you forget who ever told u other wise. Do what makes you feel comfortable, i transport most of my mags full in my ammo bag. If i take a rifle out i usually throw the empty mags in the case with the rifle.. to save space. I wouldn't transport loaded mags directly with the firearm, but that's just me.

just by changing from a carbine to mid length gas system should have lowered the overall pressure. So my intuition says that if it was too much gas, then you would have at least had the problem prior to switching barrels, it should have actually been worse. So my gut says it's either the ammo or the extractor.

citizens arrest? I guess if your on your property you would be OK, but remember you have a duty to retreat to your dwelling and If he decides to run you cant really leave your property with a gun..

Also, make sure your plates are ez-ject plates! They allow the spring to drop i believe so the finished bullet can slide out.

If it's EZ-Ject, the old ejection system is gone. It is the only part they changed i believe.. They throw updates as loose paper in the manual. So they are probably using up the manuals they already printed. The new eject system is actually nothing more then a few strategically cut places on the shell plate and below it, there are no parts for it.. What accessories did you get? sounds like your setting up an auto loader..

For $400 i was able to pick up a used 26" wingmaster in good condition, AND a 20" barrel. IMO a much better option then a new 870. From my person interwebs research any 870 is more reliable then the 877.

Wow, electrical tape? not even teflon tape? If you manage to wrap the threads with electrical tape and are still able to thread the nut on there is something seriously wrong... and IMO no thread lock in the world would fix that. You need a tight thread contact for thread lock to work.. Don't the 870's have a ball bearing channel lock?

Don't get me wrong, i'm not trying to debate the effectiveness of the process. But braking in a chrome line barrel means polishing it, The supposed accuracy gained from braking in a barrel is from smoothing out micro sized imperfections. Not necessarily removing tool marks, a decent barrel should be lapped. If the idea is to polish then scrubbing the inside of the barrel could be a bad idea.

I was under the impression that embassy's are built on land governed by that country..or in some fashion. US has very little jurisdiction when it comes to foreign embassy's if any even on US soil, since technical the US doesnt own the land they are built on.

http://www.huffingto..._n_1880348.html This one takes the cake. Just plain dumb.

I think you hit it all right here.... high quality chrome lined barrels will suffer much less.... however, cheap ammo through a 500+ dollar barrel? wouldn't even bother. Although, i dont think anyone, or majority, even thinks about putting cheap steel through a noveske barrel or such. Since the general consensus when purchasing a high end piece of equipment is to get high end results. I've been looking at there intermediated 18" barrels for my next build. Putting steel ammo through it would defeat the purpose of the rifle. Most barrels that are chrome lined, have a chrome chamber, but just make sure. As steel cased ammo will wear that down faster then brass. scarring the chamber can be a big issue, and steel cased ammo already seals the chamber less adequately then brass. Properly braking in a barrel means shooting 1 bullet at a time and thorough cleaning after each, move up to 3 shots and clean. It's not a period of time, like the first 500 rounds through the rifle, its a process. Your removing the left over bits from machining the barrel, basically deburring it. You don't want something too hard or too soft, it's best done in a very gradual process.

You would love this thread then.. Some guy is putting together a mold for a huge scale f14. I've been following it since 2009. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=147936

If i recall the f-15 has never lost a dogfight. 2mins is considered a very long dogfight, and most pilots are extremely fatigued by this point, just goes to show how insane these planes are.

Their LAR-8 has always had a long wait since it was released a few years ago.... they just don't make them in the same volume as the LAR-15. The wait time is dependent on the model. http://www.rockriver...category_ID=452

OD is less then .750? or it is .750? Not a big fan of the way it looks flush, so i would probably hate a reverse step comp. Definitely helps if you plan on changing things up.

Wow, Relax.