JackDaWack

That's the one i wanted, lol. II believe these are the new Lithium packs/tools. I also have no idea if they are truly 18v regulated or if they picked that for a nominal charge. Like i stated earlier, lithium cells are 4.2 volts each.. these are 5 cell batteries, which puts them at 21 volts fully charged. Why they market them at 18v? i have no idea, but they are running the same power source as the 20v tools from dewalt..etc. I purchased the 60v dewalt sawzall, this may be the next step in cordless power tools, but i still haven't figured out if i'm getting that much more power from it. I do like the cross compatibility with the battery and the 20v tools.

Some food for thought.. ALL of our prints are in A NJ data base... When you go to the range, all of your spent casings have your prints on them. Break out the tin foil! What's to stop someone from relocating that brass to a crime scene?

I think a brain would have served him better than range time.

Can you fit your home in a vehicle?

That doesnt make any sense.. lipo cells are 4.2 volts Max per cell. A nominal charge of 3.6 volts is nearly a dead lipo battery, they should never be drained below 3.4 volts for longevity and stability of the cells even is 3v is the standard. This means at about 18 volts, a lipo is nearing dead. Most 20v power tools have a safety feature that have low voltage shut offs. If you tried an 18v in a 20v, it probably would barely run at Max voltage. So they are in fact more powerful. In my RC cars/trucks/planes, my lipo cut off is at 3.5v. A NiCd with the same number of cells won't even have enough voltage on full charge to peak over my cut off. Lipos never indicate their Max voltage, 20volt max is actually 21volts max. Lipos also clearly hold more AHs, which means they maintain a higher voltage for a longer period of time. Size and weight are also noticeably better. Since the tools are designed for 18v and 20v respectively... The voltage is close enough for dual purpose since the electronics aren't that sensitive. However, more sensitive electronics would not have the same comparability. Most often, these devices that allow interchangablity have voltage regulators and are not backwards compatible.

If your going tit for tat on parts.... that kinda says a lot... But this has nothing to do with what I was saying... If you want to build Noveske rifles, go for it... wont hear me say nuthin bad about them...nor will i tell you how to spend your money.

Anything in the NYC commuter area will be. Bergen county, passiac and South to atlantic.. Luckily me and wife only commute 30 mins to work from Sussex where our money buys 3x the house + property.

I fully agree with the both of you.. Spares for spares, and buy what you need and that which will serve you well. I just cant get over this "don't be poor" comment, then the guy doesn't even buy a KAC that HAS the increased reliability/durability over the others... Piecing together a Noveske is no different that piecing together most quality AR components today. Personally i think you could get better results for the money going a different route, using parts like a JP matched enhanced bolt and barrel.

I fully understand the point of quality gear that, like the KAC, produces a proprietary system that increased durability and reliability. JP makes a similar enhanced bolt that has some of those features you can add to any system. Some of the draw back is the proprietary system itself and the obvious cost. IF something does break, you can find yourself with out any weapon, or a very expensive fix. Now what I DO NOT understand is this notion that a Noveske has anything to offer that most quality AR parts don't offer already. It's also a little asinine to start making cost comparisons if your getting gear at list price. When it comes to optics, there is no substitute for proven success and long time track records. Producing good glass will never be cheap, and creating solid beefy electronics requires a high degree of engineering. But keep it mind, deciding to pay an extra 150-200 bucks for an optic is much different than a few extra grand.

It's one thing to retire to a nice cheap place, your rather insulated to the issues that come with the economy and jobs. Yes Maine is pretty nice, actually very nice... along with NH.. After looking into the places that I would like to live, they either don't have a job market for myself and wife, there is little job security in a recession, or the jobs pay significantly less negating the cost of living difference. If you run a business, you also have to factor in that services are inflated in NJ, thus you will most likely pull in less money for the same level of work... The other issue is that most products do not cost any less based on location. So what is cost of living? what actually changes from state to state? It's primarily just taxes and insurance... will any differences off set those costs?

Werd.

All of my cordless tools are Dewalt 20v or 60v..... The flex volt batteries are awesome. I wish the XR series came out when I started buying all this stuff, but that's my go to now for new power tools. With that said, if this is for commercial use or for lugs on a vehicle I would go with Milwaukee. You're looking at a 500 dollar tool though if you want something break free a 120ftlb lug with relative ease. I personally use air tools for that stuff cause the affordable battery powered stuff is always lacking in power. I got a 30 gallon tank and some tools for the price of the milwaukee I wanted. If you're going to use it a lot in a day, you will rip through batteries. My 20v DeWalt grinder on the 5ah battery lasts about 30mins of continual use.

If you can't reach 911 due to communication systems being down, then you can't contact anyone.... If you need outside help at that paoint, you will have to physically make your way to it.

Mossy Oak Pink.... You might as well learn now, your opinion < her opinion.

Estrella ordinance Midwest PX Both member here who sell modified mags through their shops.

I wouldn't trust being safe from the law unless I had found a way to make it so you had to drill the mag release off. Add in constructive intent for an actual assault weapon if you have a standard mag release... too sketchy.

So you plan on welding that thing on?

It cannot be detachable...wtv that means.

Well, do you always know who you are buying a gun from or selling to? Would you risk going to jail over a few bucks? If your talking friends... Maybe that's different.

Fire arms owners information is legislatively protected in NJ it's a personal privacy exemption.. So no, you can not OPRA request it.

You need a license to hunt, you don't need one to "tag along". If you touch a weapon you are considered hunting. A hunting license is not something that permits you to use public land, like a wma. Although it does allow you to Target practice at a wma since you are "educated" in safety. A hunting license certifies that you passed the hunting education course and understand the rules and regulations, and safety procedures for bow, rifle and shotgun. It also allows you to purchase the neccesary tags and tax stamps for specific game. Their is no "half license" you do however need to qualify for each weapon separately. Shotgun, rifle and bow. But you don't need them all. Shotgun and rifle are basically now done together. Bow requires actual marksmanship. There is a lot to hunting the just getting a license. If you want to hunt water fowl you need the firearms license, hip certificate, state and federal waterfowl stamps. For deer, it depends on where, when and what. Phesant has another stamp for public lands. Etc. Please keep in mind, hunting is not something you just wake up one day and walk into the woods and do. It takes a good amount of skill and preparation to be successful. Otherwise you end up hurting yourself, someone else, or wounding an animal. Best case scenario... You waste your time. Most education courses will be shut down for the winter until it gets warmer out.

Geissele is very good stuff. I don't believe they actually make lower parts kit though. It's a fricken roll pin, just pinch the damn thing.

I would attempt to modify the pin not the lower. The rolls pins should squeeze at the end, or even file off a bit to get it started. Sometimes they are hard to get started, but go right in with a punch

Oh trust me, I put butter on everything! I don't look like it... But I'm sure my arterias don't appreciate it I might have to pass here tho... Does it stay in solution?