FishNJ

Put my first AR Lower together the other night. Started tinkering and was done before I knew it. I built on a Spike's Tactical lower, which is factory tapped for a 4-40 set screw to secure the Takedown spring/detent. This makes it much easier to install the receiver plate and buffer tube. I definitely recommend getting a 4-40 tap and set screw at the hardware store and doing this mod during your build. just trim as much off of the detent spring as the length of your set screw - 1/8" trim for 1/8" set screw...

Ditto. I can pick up a lower in NJ for under $100 any day of the week. Dont get me wrong, the PSA is a nice deal, but as soon as you throw the FFL fee on it, its the same price.

Palmetto doesn't have the established rep of other companies, but everything I've read and seen says that they have a good reputation and are putting out a great product at a competitive price. If that weapon has all of the features you want, its a great buy. It is carbine (not midlength), has chrome lined barrel, 5.56 NATO chamber, Giselle trigger, and an optic... Keep in mind you wont get the 30rd mag in NJ, and you will have to have a different muzzle device pinned and welded. If you purchase a different compensator/brake from PSA when you order the weapon, they WILL install and pin/weld for you if you put a note in the order details/comments. I've asked. PSA may also pin the stock for you if you tell them what position you want. If you want to change something like the optic, handguard, add a rail, etc. then you are adding additional cost, and the bargain is less...

So after months of virtual research and hemming and hawing, I finally took advantage of the Black Rifle Friday sales and ordered the parts for my upper last night. Got the 16" Midlength SS410 upper with Ionbond black coating from BCM. I am really excited about the 1 in 8" and 5.56 NATO Match chambering. Should be very accurate with everything from 55 grain and up. Also ordered remaining accessories, so all that remains is a lower. Build List so far... BCM SS410 16" Midlength Upper Receiver Group with Ionbond. BCM Bolt Carrier Group BCM Mod 4 charging handle Magpul MOE handguard Magpul MOE stock kit with receiver extension and carbine buffer JP Tactical Cooley Compensator I went with the JP Compensator because it says that it is 0.750" OD, with should still allow removal of the FSB after the brake has been pinned and welded, without having to remove the muzzle device. Was planning on getting a Spikes lower with Enhanced LPK. Also need to pickup some 15 round PMAGs and was looking at the A.R.M.S. 40-A2 rear sight. I'll keep the post updated as everything comes together and try and get some gun porn photos in the thread. Hope you all had a happy turkey day. FishNJ

i just picked up an MK III stainless bull barrel with plain black grips, no 10103 i think. i was originally after the 5.5" hunter with fluted barrel, but decided that for the extra $120, i could probably dress it up the way i wanted, and have some money left over.

looking good. i am putting my shopping list together to build my first AR as well. i was looking at the Samson Evolution rails as well. where did you find it for $80?

cutting or a press is about all you have left. heating/cooling at this point is going to expand/contract the barrel together with the gas block.

1. Application type: New FID with 1 x pistol permit 2. Police Department: Bernards Township 3. Name of the person you dealt with at the PD: dont recall, Records dept. 4. Time taken to issue FID and/or permit: References contacted within 2 weeks of submission, Fingerprinted 7/18, Issued on 8/17. (Sagem Morpho appt was 3.5 wks out, no fault of BTPD) 5. Documents required by the PD: Standard Docs + BTPD basic personal information form 6. Notes - Smooth as could be.

I've been looking for something like this, for your exact reason: Once pinned, you can still get stuff on/off the barrel later on. And affordable. The other place I found was www.peaktactical.com They have some nice stuff too, little more variety.

this. 4 equidistant spot welds brake to barrel, or 50% circumference weld brake to barrel is also acceptable.

if you like the 1911 style, browning has a 1911-22 that is 7/8 of full size or so... not sure about weight. colt/umarex 1911-22 is full size but lighter weight.

not sure where you are located, but Efingers in Bound Brook has a Walther SP22 on the shelf, first one I have seen. The P22 is nice and compact, my wife has small hands and liked it. Sig Mosquito is a little bigger. My buddy has a little Taurus 22LR revolver that is compact too for a lower cost alternative.

"Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over." bottom of first page... from ATF website http://www.atf.gov/publications/download/p/atf-p-5320-8/atf-p-5320-8-chapter-2.pdf the weld and silver solder are only accepted for a true barrel extension. see page 21

I see it as those 3 methods are the only defined legal means to permanently modify a barrel, for whatever the criteria are including length. For NJ, to permanently modify a barrel such that the threads were out of question (in the same way one would want the length out of question) these 3 methods still apply, and are the only defined acceptable methods. Any other method would be in the hands of the court, and i'm not sure it's worth the effort to find out what they think. As you said, the pin with TIG is the least offensive, and most popular.

like I said, this is my first AR, so it will probably end up being a jack of all trades. this will be a step through the AR door, that will help me figure out what I ultimately want, while still being a useful piece in the lineup. mostly for punching paper and practicing fundamentals at the range. JIC/SHTF/Zombie hunting if it came to it. i dont compete, probably not going to hunt with it, i'm not LEO or Military. i enjoy building things and tinkering, and knowing i have about 50% more than i really need. I dont see a big difference between 16.1" and 17.5" finished lengths when the compensator is on, so I tend toward the 16" middy. I dont think I need uber light weight, although its a nice-to-have. I tend to prefer accuracy over manuverability, to a point, hence the 16" middy over an SPR/Varmint rifle. I plan to start with Iron Sights, and eventually add a magnified optic of some sort down the road, either red dot with magnifier, or scope. I might add a FF rail down the road, which I think would benefit the SS barrel more than a CHF/CL. am i thinking straight?

so everything i've read says there are 3 federally accepted methods of PERMANENT FIXATION of muzzle devices: - braze with silver solder with a melting point of at least 1100 deg F - blind pin and weld - tack weld directly to the barrel with 4 equally spaced spot welds, or a weld of at least 50% of the barrel circumference i would imagine that these apply for NJ AWB as well to comply with the "...threaded barrel capable of accepting a flash hider..." part so i'm not sure that pinning and loctite, or 500 deg SS would cut the mustard if push came to shove, right?

thanks. everything i've ready says people have been pleased with it. one more thumbs up doesnt hurt. i think thats where i am pointed for now, unless i can be convinced otherwise.

appreciate the comeback. thanks.

Dan - thanks for pointing that out. a ALL - what kind of accuracy are you getting out of your 14.5" ST LWT? Are you pleased as punch, or do it differently next time around?

yes i am aware of the need to permanently affix any non-flash hiding muzzle device, and that the barrel must be a minimum of 16" to avoid NFA stuff... I have done plenty of reading and have a good understanding of the do's and dont's within the laws. thanks for the reminder though. even though a BCM 14.5" was not one i was considering, i do know that it is offered with several options for different devices permanently attached by them, including the FSC556, which will make it the minimum 16"... additionally, JETAgent has GENEROUSLY offered to tack the muzzle device for me if I do the set screw pinning, and final clean up, so it appears that the compensator is no longer an issue to consider.

wow, thanks for the offer. that sounds great. im in basking ridge, plainfield is certainly close enough also. guess i have a path forward now to start ordering parts! i'll reach out to you by email/pm when i'm ready. thanks again.

Pinning/welding is clearly the more popular method. I am mechanically inclined, and can drill/tap/setscrew the brake in place, but have no access to welder to top it off. Has anyone silver soldered / brazed their brake on? Wondering if this is easy enough to do at home, with an Oxy/MAPP torch. Ive seen some photos of discolored barrels. Anyone have any experience? thanks

I'm finally getting around to building my first AR and can't wrap my head around the realistic accuracy of 14.5" or 16" CL uppers against SS barrels. Will be pairing with a Spikes lower with Enhanced LPK. Basically will be a range toy. I've basically narrowed it down to either Spikes Tactical / Aim Surplus Elite midlength uppers in either 14.5" or 16" $500-650 Palmetto State 16" SS416 chambered in .223 Wylde $450 w/ MOE or BCM 16" Midlength SS410 with NATO Match chamber $775 when all is said and done I tend to lean towards the PSA stainless, as its the lowest cost and SS, but then I have to add a Comp and find someone to weld it for me. PSA said they will do it if I order one with the upper, but all the have is the YHM Phantom that I'm not particular keen on... (Prefer Dynacomp/FSC556/Rainer XTC) Next in line is the Spike/AIM 14.5 since I can it all done with the welded comp. Downside is I lose a little velocity... real world implications? and it ends up being the same length as a 16. If I go the 16" route, still have to add comp and pin...Upside-it will match the lower and be a complete ST build... BCM is in there as the ideal upper, proven, etc, but also most expensive, and I still have the compensator issue... I'm sure some of you faced the same set of questions. Where did you end up and why? What is the real world accuracy of the ST Elite CHF Uppers from AIM? What is the actual added weight of a SS barrel? And is there ever really a chance of wearing one out? I just need a good kick in the pants to send me one direction and I'll be on my way... Thanks fellas.