45Doll

I like mine. I didn't buy it to carry it. HD and target. Lightweight, balanced, gold dot sight, fun to shoot and a good trigger. At least for me. The cylinder hand broke on mine within 100 rounds, but S&W took care of it without charge. Still shooting well. I preferred this over the Miculek version because I like the Hogue grips and didn't require the stainless look. The light rail was a bonus. .45 ACP. What's not to like?

This link is a story about how Colt, led by a man who apparently doesn't understand firearms or their culture in America, managed to miss out on the biggest bulge in civilian gun sales in history. And to think this is the same company that made my beautiful 1978 factory tuned Python. http://townhall.com/tipsheet/townhallmagazine/2014/08/09/live-by-big-government-die-by-big-government-n1876879

Golf: If you join GSSF, do it for two years or more and get your Blue Label purchase coupon immediately. Worth a significant discount on a Glock. You get one for each year of membership. If you join for only one year, you'll have to wait until you renew for your first coupon.

Here's Glock's requirements; I left out a couple: AC - Armorers course (1 Day) Learn how to safely use and maintain your weapon in a one day (8 hour) class. (To be eligible to take the Armorers Course you must be an active law enforcement or military officer, private security, GLOCK Stocking Dealer/Range Program Employee or current GSSF member.)

You must either be LE or a member of the GSSF to sign up. I thought it was worth it.

Here's the link to the latest story and comments: http://www.nj.com/south/index.ssf/2014/08/atlantic_county_judge_rejects_philadelphia_womans_bid_to_dismiss_gun_charge.html There was one comment I thought was instructive. "This case will pointedly clarify the idiotic essence of the gun control zealots' strategy. Rather than focus on actual deeds that are 'mala in se', they are obsessed with creating 10,000 'mala prohibita' laws and regulations to placate their real (and irrational) fear of guns. Not violence. And not violent people. This woman commits no actual physical offense on or to anyone. She does no harm, and causes no damage. She simply fails to investigate and then navigate the maze of ARBITRARY GUN LAWS AND REGULATIONS constructed by the hoplophobic Democrat legislators in NJ. And then the persecutor (sic) (a Democrat?) goes AH HA! WE'VE GOT YOU!!! Notice that the persecutor (sic) says this must be a deterrent for similar activity. Which activity? Not successfully navigating the mine fields of NJ law. So we're going to slam her in jail for three years and give her a lifelong felony record for being ignorant. And that's how to prevent violent crime!" This is why NJ gun laws are completely ineffective. The concentrate 100% on creating 'mala prohibitum' circumstances to catch law abiding citizens in legal traps, rather then remove actual bad-deed-doers from our society.

I've wondered if there would be a premium for my factory tuned model. I've never shot a 'stock' Python so I have nothing to compare it to. I'm no trigger expert, but pulling the double action on mine is like pulling a dull knife through a stick of 60 degree butter. I can't discern any delta in the pull from start to ignition. The single action is ridiculous.

Do you remember what you paid for yours? I think mine was around $400, a little more expensive at that time because it was factory tuned. Next time I'm in the deposit box I'll have to look and see if I have the receipt.

Hey BH thanx for that pointer. My DVR did catch that (must have been a new show) so I watched it last night. Quite a story. My first handgun in 1978 was a Royal Blue 6" that was factory tuned by the Custom Shop. Bought it at Leslie Edleman's on Route 22. Yes I still have it, and no I won't sell it!

Read my post in this thread: http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/41324-filling-out-ogam-exemption-form/?hl=exemption You need both forms filled out. One is for you, and one is for the seller(s). You must have all serial numbers for the guns you want IN ADVANCE. Send the completed forms directly to the NJSP in Trenton. That way your local PD can't hold them up. http://www.njsp.org/info/forms.html#firearms SP-015 and SP-016. (And the additional form pages if you need them.)

"Too good to say no to"? If you are talking career valuation, that's for you and no one else to decide. And you'll need to put a value on it. If you are talking money, then you need to do what I should have done some years ago. Take your current NET (repeat, NET income) in Indiana and compare that to what your NET (I repeat NET) income will be in NJ. Please be sure to include New Jersey: Property taxes Income taxes Commuting costs (and TIME! How much will you make PER HOUR at this new job INCLUDING YOUR COMMUTE) Cost of leaving NJ when you do (Yes, it costs to leave if you own a house) Cost of living period. Cost of housing. And if all that comes out WAY in your favor in NJ, then consider all our gun law limitations. I'm not kidding or exaggerating. DO THE ARITHMETIC AND INCLUDE EVERYTHING! I failed to do this many years ago, and made several uniformed and bad decisions. But I was young. The job may NOT be too good to turn down.

As we've seen the last two years, we here in NJ are frequently caught up fighting fires with our legislature; trying to keep the next inane law from passing. Or how to keep our own butts out of jail. Consequently, I think many of us lose sight of the big picture. Gun control in this country is a long term project for the left. When we get caught up with all the short term issues and neglect the long term vision, we set ourselves up to lose the war, no matter how many battles we win. So read this article that (I think) lays out the full project plan for the left. And consider what action you could take to ameliorate it. http://libertycrier.com/roadmap-for-gun-control/

Between my wife and I we've shot over 1K rounds each of remanufactured 9mm, .40 and .45 in semi-autos with no issues. Glocks, Sigs, FNs, M&Ps, H&Ks and Walthers included. I won't count the .38 and .357 revolver rounds. While I can't say neither of us had one single issue in those thousands of rounds, there certainly was no glaring failure rate or other issues that would distinguish their reloads from factory new. (PMC, Federal, Aguila, S&B included) I wouldn't be too quick to write them off. Their price/value ratio is too good. As many others on this board have noted.

My wife an I once spent a New Year's Eve at Pocono Palace in the 70's. My two takeaways: I felt guilty running probably 200 gallons of hot water into the heart shaped tub to fill it. If you and your significant other want to broaden your experience sometime, spend a night in a round bed made with square sheets.

Always send the two forms directly to the FIU in Trenton. Once they approve it and return it to your local authority it's a done deal. If you give it to your local PD, who knows how long they'd sit on it? It is perfectly legal to send it directly. The local PD is only a pit stop.

My MHEs were always sent directly to the NJSP firearms unit, and returned to the issuing authority which is my local barracks. They were never sent directly to me . I'd check with your local PD, and if they say they don't have it call the NJSP firearms unit.

It was put up on the home page 35 minutes ago. http://www.nj.com/politics/index.ssf/2014/07/poll_was_christie_right_to_veto_nj_gun_magazine_bill.html#incart_river

I just called too. This weekend I will write him a letter.

Glock 19, Glock 26 and M&P Shield 9mm should probably be part of your review.

True Vlad. Also you too Howard. I guess I was only trying to address the cost of the lease. Or in other words, how much are you willing to pay to use a car each month? Regardless of someone's views on all the other personal variables mentioned, if you're looking to lease find out what the total cost of the lease is and use that to compare one lease to another. That won't affect whatever other personal requirements you have, but it will tell you what lease is cheaper, what the true cost per month will be over the term, and allow you to compare that to your own used car information and costs. Again, I was just shocked when I realized it cost me $285 per month to drive that Intrigue for 13 years. I thought it would be much lower. I made a false assumption that buying new, totally caring for the car, and driving it for a long time would be the most economical. And it is more economical than leasing a new $30,000 car for 36 months. But, in my view, not THAT much more. When the current lease is up I may look seriously at one of the $169/month specials somewhere. That would mean the total lease cost would come in under what I was paying for my Intrigue. IF I'm willing to run around in a bare bones whatever.

I hear you Vlad. My only other comment is that when I calculated that I actually spent $285 a month on that Intrigue for 13 years I was shocked. I thought the cost would be much less; but it wasn't. And my records for the car are accurate to the penny. The other interesting thing is that in the last three years of my ownership, I spent HALF of the Intrigue repair and maintenance money, including a new transmission. BUT, if I had sold the car at the 10 year mark to avoid that extra 50% cost guess what... my monthly cost would STILL have been $285!!! Primarily because the original price would have been spread over 120 months instead of 163. So if I leased a new car at a total lease cost <= $10,260 (285 x 36) I would be spending less than I spent on my Intrigue, but driving a new car. (Although certainly not as nice as that Intrigue was.) My bottom line is: there's no substitute for doing the arithmetic. That exercise shattered some assumptions I had made.

J&J is right. I amend my original statement. Not enough who give a damn enough to do what's required to maintain our rights in the long run.

Not enough.

To me the total cost of the lease is the number that counts. That number is of course affected by the down payment, term of the lease etc. But if you want to compare apples to apples, you must use the total cost of the lease (capitalized cost, gap insurance, taxes, fees etc.), especially if comparing one lease arrangement to another. My 'monthly payment' is $357.39 on a 36 month term. But the total cost of the lease divided by 36 is $458.57. Quite a difference. I consider the 'total cost of the lease' to be the adjusted capitalized cost minus the value of the purchase option at the end of the lease. Whether or not I exercise the purchase option is a separate decision. I don't bother with mileage calculations as long as I'm considering similar vehicles. But don't discount the cost of insurance on a new car versus a used one. That is usually a significant difference, and the leasing company will require you to protect their property completely. Just for reference, I bought a brand new Olds Intrigue in 2000. After 13 years and 165,000 miles the true monthly cost to own that car (purchase price, mainentenance and repairs less the resale price) was $285 a month. That number gave me a feel for whether the upcharge to lease a new car was worth it. I'm effectively paying $174 a month extra to drive a new car rather than my 13 year old Intrigue. That was the decision I had to make. One other thing. When you own a car and have a bad accident and serious repairs, that fact bites you at resale time. If you lease a car and have the same accident, at the end of the lease term you walk away and it's the leasing company's problem.

None of this matters. Like Hillary, I've been dead broke.