High Exposure

If you are using a gun built to the Technical Data Package, which includes a mil-spec receiver extension including an adjustable stock that you can fully collapse to help support the receiver extension when mortaring to clear this malfunction type than I agree. However, when using a receiver made to commercial specs or to mil spec tolerances but with commercial (inferior) materials, you can throw the "made for combat" comparison out the window for you are now comparing apples to something that only looks like an apple. Since in NJ, the ability to collapse a stock is a no go, unless you have a purpose built and designed fixed stock (such as an ACE, A1, A2, Sully, PRS, etc) or a carbine stock pinned all the way closed on a mil spec receiver extension you have great potential to run into problems. Because of this, having the stronger mils spec extension can make the difference between clearing you malfunction and dead lining your gun. I have seen many broken and chipped stocks (which may be uncomfortable to shoot, but the gun will still work) and many bent or broken receiver extension (which is a total show stopper) occur when mortaring a rifle to clear this type of malfunction. The TDP is the TDP for a reason. It works and is produces a weapon that is built for the harshest conditions. It mandates not just tolerances but manufacturing processes, construction materials and QC checks for every part of the gun. Ignore them at your peril, but don't get pissed if you subscribed to the "parts is parts" philosophy and purchased a cheaper - both in quality and price - receiver extension/BCG/rifle and it does not perform to your expected standards. Difference between a mil spec and commercial spec receiver extensions:

Not all gas blocks are created equal. The AA Piston kit gasblock does not need an extended front sight like most railed gasblocks do. The rail on the GB is the same height as the flat top on the receiver. While you can use a standard folding front sight, a Magpul BUIS is NOT a good choice. It has the potential to soften the plastic making you lose zero. Spend some dough on a decent metal sight and you will be much happier. As far as mounting the BUIS on the VLTOR riser I do not recommend it. The extra height may make co-witnessing an optic difficult as well as making your cheekweld less comfortable and less consistent degrading accuracy. Mount the rear sight to the flat top at the rear of the VLTOR rail and the front to the gasblock. This will keep everything standard and make zeroing and adjustments easier. One consideration is when you decide on an optic make sure you purchase a mount that is the correct height for the VLTOR rail. Good luck.

Be patient. Save a little longer. Buy an Aimpoint PRO. Realize it was the best purchase you ever made for your rifle. Thank me later. Buy cheap buy twice, buy once cry once.

Incorrect, they are not all constructed the same. The Surefire 123s (as well as a very few other name brands) have a built in circuit breaker that helps to prevent the issues you are describing. This is why they are preferred.

I would argue it was prior to June 7th, 2008.

2 pack of Surefire 123s at Lowes - $4.30

http://info.publicintelligence.net/FBI-LithiumBatteries.pdf Don't buy cheap batteries. Saving $0.50 per battery ain't worth a $100 light or serious injury. I use only Surefire batteries bought directly from Surefire.com, with occasional re-supply from Lowes to top off the stash. Avoid 123 batteries from the camera store or film section of the pharmacy as they are designed for a quick surge/burst of power like you would need for a flash, not for prolonged use as you would want for a flashlight.

^^^ Do not follow this advice! As stated prior, follow the procedures spelled out in your SOPs and Rules and Regs. Read them and become familiar with them. Typically a supervisor (Sgt, Lt, Capt) does not have the authority to authorize this or defend the decision. Speak with your agency legal council and follow their opinions.

A magnified optic will let you see better, it will not make you shoot better under any realistic conditions. At 100 yards and in I am faster and more accurate with my T1 than with my T1 and a magnifier. The magnifier does allow me to make target ID of Friend/Foe faster but slows me down as I am looking for the "perfect" dot placement. My advice, spend the $$ you have set aside for the magnified optic on ammo and take a class from a reputable instructor. If you are dead set on magnification, a 3x in a FTS mount is the way to go for a multipurpose carbine (CQB - 300 yards vice a designated long range weapon system).

Dude, these are questions you should be asking your Supervisor or agency legal council. Your agency should also have rules and regs as well as SOPs governing these topics. You should make yourself aware of them and become familiar. You should not be soliciting legal advice on this topic via the intardweb. You are showing your a$$. Knock it off. ETA: Additionally, read this and try to heed the lessons within: http://www.birdsnest.com/garcia.htm Judging by your post it will do wonders for your career.

(609) 882-2000 Call this number. Extension 2060. Ask them what their opinion is. Report back.

A.R.M.S. Mounts: helping terrorists walk away unscathed since 1980! Seriously, If you find A.R.M.S. is the answer, ask a different question. Their mounts are weak/soft and do not hold zero well. They break often under normal use and are hated by most of the guys out there that are forced to rely on ARMS gear. Not to mention the fact that, IMO, Dick Swan's business practices leave a lot to be desired.

If you want flip up: Troy if you plan on using it often. Magpul if you want it as a truly "Oh Crap!" backup. Another option that I have tried and liked is the GG&G MAD sight (Which does have the capability of setting either aperture up as the primary) If you want fixed: LaRue or C4 Diopter BUIS. Whatever you choose, avoid ARMS products at all costs.

I think you are over-thinking it at this point.

I personally see no reason for the expense of tritium sights on a fighting long gun. If it is dark enough where you can not see your sight outline, you need a white light for target ID. Once the while light is on, you can see your sight outline.

Gotcha. I use an Insight MRDS on my issued MP5 instead of an Aimpoint.

Keep in mind the weight difference between the Troy rear and the MBUS rear is only like 0.4oz (if I remember correctly).

I see no difference in times or accuracy between the PRO and the T1. IMO, with both eyes open the diameter of the tube becomes a non-issue as far as field of view is concerned. The OEM mount on the PRO is modular. You should be able to take the riser, the section with all the holes in it, and remove it using an Allen key. This lets you attach the optic directly to the mount using the shorter screws that were in the box the optic came in, giving you a low mount suitableb for shotguns, AK variants, and the like. Edited to add response to Vlad.

I have seen no advantages to the diamond head type sight picture over a traditional ghost ring sight. The Magpul offering is excellent for the price and I have them on a few guns. I feel they are adequate as a sight to back up a quality optic like an Aimpoint. If iron sights were my primary means of aiming or they were backups to an inferior optic and thereby increasing the chance that they will be deployed often and regularly, I would spend more money on a more robust setup and maintain a standard A frame gas block front sight with either a Troy flip-up rear BUIS or the Centurian or LaRue Fixed rear Iron sights. Depending on the height if the block you may need a front sight built specifically for a railed has block. Some are not tall enough to be mounted there if the gas block's rail is not the same height as the flat top on the upper.

I have 3 T1s, 2 PROs, an M4, an EOTech, a Trijicon RMR and an Insight MRDS and I prefer the T1s hands down. Do you prefer the length of the tube or the diameter of the PRO over the Micro?

I have bought and used a lot of optics designed for CQB - Midrange engagement. The Aimpoint Pro is hands down the best optic out there for engaging targets inside 200 yards with the T1 being a close second (if they were priced the same the T1 would be a better choice as it is significantly lighter and has a smaller footprint). You may find something cheaper, but nothing out there that is a better value than the PRO.

This is the way to go.

Do you want fixed or folding BUIS? I am not a fan of fixed rear BUIS but I do like a standard A frame front sight assembly on my ARs. In the event of a primary sight failure it is one less thing to do. It also lets you use the body of the dead optic as a large "Ghost Ring" that you can get pretty good with inside of 10 yards or so with a little practice. (it should be noted that I prefer a lower 1/3rd cowitness over an absolute cowitness an any AR set up for social purposes) This however is all a non entity as of yet as I have not had any of my Aimpoints die on me. Other than times I have purposely turned it off for training or attended a class where it was Iron Sights only, I stick to the optics. I have a mix of Troy and Magpul folding rear BUIS. They both work equally well but I have a lot more rounds downrange through the Troy that the Magpul sights. I recently shot a carbine equipped with Centurian Arms C4 Diopter sights: https://www.centurionarms.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=115&Itemid=137 Essentially HK MP5 rear sight set up to be used on an AR. If I was going to use a fixed BUIS this is what I would use. Very fast and accurate.

If this is the optic you plan on using on the weapon you have designated for HD keep your iron sights or get a set of BUIS, you are going to need them. You spent money on an a quality Carbine. Why go cheap on the optic?

How'd that cop fire the pistol with his finger off the trigger and how did the action unlock to eject a casing with a projectile still in the barrel?