Malice4you

No, you can't. My ex loved my Savage 93R17 TR and claimed it was hers. So for a two+ year period, I only got to shoot it if I went alone. My ex was short enough to fit under my chin, and the same setup on my Savage worked for both of us. Same for other exes/friends, my bolt guns never gave em problems. The guns may not have been ideal for them, but they adapted and shot them fine. As for actual question, if it is a fixed, non-adjustable stock, it may be an issue, depending on how similar or dissimilar you two are. If it is a bolt gun, maybe consider a stock that can adjust to both of you - comb and LOP (or even a chassis with buffer tube attachment so you can use AR stocks like PRS)? Use a paint pen to color code your individual preferences? Or get her her own. No one has to share then! 2x rifles, 2x scopes, 2x more mags, 2x more ammo, 1/2 the space in the safe, 2x more cleaning, etc etc etc

HD265 Linear I did some more research after posting this (always the case) and have found some aftermarket stuff - hopefully decent quality. Last time I looked, I think I only tried a few sources and gave up when most of the results were for totally different models (and different shapes). I do wish search results were smarter sometimes. I didn't really think of the cushions as consumables, but makes sense now that I think about it. I was thinking leather because of the really nice, supple soft leather used in some of the gloves I have....where IMO it would be as comfortable as the pleather they use, but be more robust. The foam inside might disintegrate like mine now, but that's years down the road. The super thin fake leather surface delaminates from the fabric backing (apparently a common problem for the cushions), and it just looks bad and is a minor irritation. thanks [edit] - Results returned were different on chrome than on firefox on the same PC. Also, someone on ebay is selling a new pair for $400....

I have some 10? year old Sennheiser headphones which are still working wonderfully, but the earcups and headband padding is going downhill. The headphones are discontinued, so parts are no longer really available for this model. I was wondering if there are even people out there who can do this kind of work for reasonable prices these days, and if so, where to look. While the Sennheisers i own are not the most expensive headphones ($180), they were not exactly cheap either, so I would like to get more (better) life out of them. If custom leather work is too expensive, I will keep looking for factory replacement parts, but I'd much rather have some nice soft leather cushions than thin crappy pleather (really Sennheiser?) which will just delaminate and tear again. I use these things most days at work, and often for hours at a time, so comfort is a big deal. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Sounds like an FFL who is talking out his ass and making up laws. Would be ironic if the same FFL then modded mags in a non-compliant way. 15 rounds is still legal today. Probably won't be a year from now, but today, they are. There was at least one proposal for 5 round limits, so why not pin everything there while he's at it? Half the stuff that takes 10 or 15 (or 30) rd detachable mags has more than one evil feature if you look at proposed laws, so if he is worried about the future, why even transfer anything evil at all? Or we follow current law, have fun while we can, fight while we can, and worry bout what happens if or when it happens.

Personally dislike laptops, but if that works for you, by all means, go for one. I would never pick Apple (anything) because I've always disliked them, but again, personal preference. My desktop with a SSD is as fast to boot up from power off as resuming Windows is on a HDD based laptop. I'd suggest something like a mini PC, connected to a TV. Wireless keyboard and mouse. Maybe supplemented with a tablet/ipad. https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=Property&Subcategory=10&N=100019096 600014723 601190658 601190663 601190668 601286690 601304715 601310877 600014730 601190659 601190665 601190660 601286692 601304710 601310873 600014733 601190673 601190677 601190683 601286691 601309551 4814 600537266 601115220 600528688 600015154 600015149 600015155 600015158 8000&IsNodeId=1&IsPowerSearch=1 Hopefully the link works with the search options I selected... Plenty of mini options out there

Hijack away @Mrs. Peel We all know every thread drifts, and I got my answer. Plus I'm always down for talking about .22s For a semi-auto .22 rifle - really hard to beat the versatility of a 10/22 - there are roughly 2 million options and variations and configurations available. If you want a takedown sporter barrel model or a heavy barrel precision gun or a G36/SAW/P90 "clone", there are options. For cheap bolt guns, hard to beat a decent Marlin or Savage IMO. For under $200, a basic Marlin is a nice gun. Mine has easily over 8k through it, and still shoots great. The Savages I own were a bit more expensive, but are great shooters. Probably even more options for bolt guns than there are 10/22 configurations, and most of them are probably decent choices. I'm still salivating over an Anschutz...one day I'll own one (or a few, knowing me)

Awesome, thank you!

Finally seem to have motivated myself enough to start doing the workbook for getting a hunting license. Honestly, my main purpose is for use of the WMA ranges and a few other minor benefits - I will not be hunting whatsoever. My primary interest is in using .22LR and .17HMR bolt action rifles on the rifle range, and occasional use of the shotgun range. Looking at http://www.state.nj.us/dep/fgw/hntlicfe.htm I see a "rifle permit" with an extra $10.50 fee. If I plan on using the Clinton WMA rifle range, would I need to add this when I get the actual license, or am I covered for WMA rifle range use with only the resident hunting license? Thanks

I'll answer your 5 questions 3 sir! I'll answer your 3 questions. Magazines are different. The sp2022 mags are slightly thicker and wont fit at all into the 226, and while the 226 mag fits into the 2022, the mag release cut is in a different spot and locks in place too low to feed. Never tried a 229 mag, but I assume they are like the 228, which (some?) can take 226 mags. Woulda been nice. Controls are similar, not quite exactly the same, but close enough most sig users wouldn't/shouldn't have any problems. 2022 controlls are more ramped and give a slightly better purchase, but also sit slightly lower and a poor grip might engage the slide stop easier on the 2022. Can't say I have had a problem on a classic or a plastic sig i've handled yet though. A generic enough holster is compatible, like the sig branded OWB one that fits from Mosquito through p22x models. From memory, the 2022 is slightly thicker on the slide. I haven't really tested anything beyond a serpa, and I don't recall the two working well in the other's holster. Parts, only rail mounted stuff, maybe sights, and possibly certain internals (like springs) could be common between the two. Seems like Sig wanted something different from the classic P22x line for their first polymer pistol, but I kinda wish they had figured how to make a polymer p229(ish) - woulda been nice to share mags, holsters, etc., and tap into existing owners and parts. That said, 2022 stands perfectly fine on its own as a distinct pistol.

Sig 1911 TTT Sig P226 9mm Sig Pro 2022 9mm Sig Mosquito

Mine (gsg 522 sd) isn't very reliable. It is a huge pain to fully clean, and it doesn't like getting dirty, so you have to clean it often. When it runs, it is a really fun gun. But as soon as it gets dirty, mine will start to have problems. If you get one, run the cleanest burning HV ammo you can find. Pick up real HK push pins. Replace the stock. See if you can find the old style HK-style parts kit GSG made. That way it at least looks cool on the bench where you toss it in disgust after it decides to not fire a bunch of rounds in a row. I have a love/hate relationship with mine, as you can probably tell. If it had all these problems but was easy to clean, i wouldn't care. But disassembling the damn thing - i'm sure there are videos out there, watch one before buying, and realize you'll be doing that every couple hundred rounds if you want it to run reliably.

Was without power 150 hours, and didnt get internet back til 2 hours ago. Having a generator is great, until trees fall on the road and wires at both ends of your property and remove any way of driving anywhere for 3 days. Or getting more gas. Over 20 trees down within 300ft of the house. Fuck winter.

I'd planned to get a Glock 20 with my last permit, before Newtown happened, but got convinced to go for the Glock 23 instead. Not sure why I didn't go for the 22 since I was looking for the 20, but I love my 23. Getting ammo for it was never really a problem, compared to my 9mm and .45 - though I didn't buy a lot of ammo for it for a while. I bought the gun a few hours before finding out I was being laid off. I remember seeing .40, .357sig, and 10mm available locally throughout the panic. I still want that Glock 20 Gen4 for whatever reason.

If you have a tripod and an SLR, bracketing may help for a static shot. You can tell the camera to under- and over-expose by 2 or 3 stops and photoshop can combine the results for you. Some cameras may have a similar functionality called HDR (high dynamic range) built-in, but it should be a steady shot. Any movement of the camera will likely make the results unusable. if possible, shoot in RAW. If you can figure out how to overexpose a shot, then take an underexposed shot with your camera, I would trust those more than built-in HDR on some cameras I have seen, buy try as much as you can. You can also buy what is called a graduated ND filter, which is kinda like a car windshild with the tinted glass up top. It darkens the sky a bit, while the lower 1/2 or 2/3 is exposed normally. You can try the flash, if you can only take one shot, it may be just enough to brighten dark areas, but until digital has 18+ stop range, I don't know we are going to get those shots without something being too bright or too dark. Meter for what is most important to you. I mentioned RAW before - all SLRs should have this, certain higher end p&s cameras do, maybe even a few cells do too. RAW allows FAR more editing capabilities after the fact. I was taking pictures of Corzine at CCM once, where they used atrocious lights, and I had set a camera to JPG and forgot to set it back to RAW. JPG files are final once it is written, so white balance was set wrong. I reviewed the pictures and realized my error and switched back to RAW, so the rest of the shots were fine. It took 30 minutes to recover the first few shots I needed. RAW shots take about 3 seconds to decide if tungsten or custom looks better. Beyond that, JPG can be 'fixed' up to maybe a stop of light, while RAW can be fixed 2, maybe even 3 stops before getting unacceptable. And RAW doesn't lose quality each time you save the file, unlike JPG. In other words, a single RAW shot of your sunset or out the window might be doable with help from photoshop. Not ideal, but good enough. Bracketed RAW at -3 and +3 stops (or even more extreme manual settings) shot on a tripod or immobile object would be the best outcome and what I would try if I did not have any decent strobes.

Thanks, glad it wasn't for nothing. I'm a relative newbie - I started with digital (was the first kid in my school to own a digital camera - a little Agfa, did 1024x768? resolution, and only cost $300 - $400, back in 1998ish), went to a digital SLR by 2004, and I'm currently at 6 Canon bodies and 17? lenses from 12mm UWA through 800mm f5.6 supertelephoto - I'm a fast glass junkie. Still love my 400mm ƒ2.8L IS and 200mm ƒ1.8L best. My first serious paying gig was January 2005. I later worked as a freelancer for both a yearbook company and for North Jersey Media Group for a number of years. I also used to work in a camera store. These days I only shoot as a hobby - and even then, not too often. I tend to shoot birds, landscapes, models, the occasional product for the company, and whatever other things appeal that given day if I actually go out with a camera. While I'm a Canon camera shooter, I do have 4 Nikon riflescopes, so I can say I shoot Nikon too...:D

What kind of backlighting light source? I can usually control where I place the subject. However, for situations where you can't, the brighter light prevails. Unless you have 1600+Watt strobes ($$$), you're not overpowering the sun lighting something, but if you have those cheap 1kW work lights and a diffusion panel (far away from those damned hot lights), you can probably overpower many other (back) light sources. Or LED workshop light strips are about $30-40 at HD/Lowes and put out 3k+ lumens before diffusing/bouncing. You always lose light with diffusing or bouncing, but again, most 60W bulbs are under 1200 lumens. If you only want the subject to be backlit without any direct front lighting, that's getting into manual camera settings. Might need to do some spot metering or bracketing to see how things come out, and go from there.

If you are looking to sell something, review something, ask for information on something, or show off your new toy, you're likely going to take some pictures. This is a by-no-means-exhaustive guide to get you started in the right direction of taking quality photographs. (Think more documenting, less artistic.) Most of these tips apply to any camera from a cell phone to a DSLR. You may have to adapt the concept to your specific equipment, skills, and situation. Best bet - read this, then experiment and expand on these tips on your own. If you have questions, there are more than a few photographers on this forum. If you are the TL;DR type, here's the gist of this: MAKE SURE YOUR SUBJECT HAS PLENTY OF LIGHT ON IT, BUT DIFFUSE YOUR LIGHT - A LARGER LIGHTING SURFACE AREA IS BETTER, and KNOW EVERY CAMERA HAS A MINIMUM FOCUS DISTANCE AND NEEDS DECENT CONTRAST TO FOCUS. Oh, and CHECK YOUR SHOTS ACTUALLY CAME OUT BEFORE PUTTING EVERYTHING AWAY. /TL:DR For the rest of you, thank you for reading - I know it's a bit long. There are two things I see that bug me in countless posts online, be it here, ebay, some enthusiast website, or wherever. First annoyance is poorly (or totally un-) focused shots, and the second is poorly lit shots. I'll cover lighting first. ____________________________________________________________ Photography is essentially the process of capturing light. When trying to clearly show the subject, a brightly lit area is typically going to be better than a dim dungeon lit by one bulb. Many cameras automatically adjust the ISO (sensitivity/"film speed") and introduce significant grain/noise in dark areas, ruining quality of the photo. Furthermore, poorly lit subjects will mean your camera must expose the picture for longer, leading to your movement blurring the picture. That said, a small, bright, focused light can be worse than a larger, dimmer, diffused light source. Your camera might use the onboard flash in darker conditions, which is almost always a poor choice for things as shiny as guns (not to mention produces poor quality lighting in general). Whatever your light source, you will want the majority of light behind you (or at least behind the lens), facing away from the front of the camera lens, unless you want a silhouette shot. The goal is a BROAD, EVEN LIGHT. The larger the surface area of light, the better off you are likely to be. You can use a few cheap tricks to help your lighting. If you are shooting outdoors: -Under direct noon sun - don't. Find some light shade and shoot there if possible (think under a gazebo or overhang or porch - somewhere that's still bright, but not under direct sun) If not available, wait for a cloud to cover the sun if possible. -Under cloudy/overcast sky - this is actually better lighting than direct sun because the entire sky is essentially the light source -You may still want to use a flash to soften harsh shadows under certain circumstances If shooting indoors: -Shoot near windows letting in lots of light during the day, though not in direct sun if possible (thin white blinds may work great as a diffuser) -Shoot near windows letting in lots of light and use a light bounce to increase area lighting or to light your subject itself - a light bounce could be a large white piece of cardboard/foam core or a reflective solar window blocker for a car windshield, placed in the direct sunlight, used to bounce light to the ceiling (general lighting) or onto your subject (making just that subject brighter, works best if someone else holds the bounce to direct the light for you). -Turn on ALL the lights in the area you're shooting if sunlight isn't an option - if your kitchen has 3 sets of 4 lights, turn em all on so you have 12 lights on -Add light - we probably all have some bright flashlight or portable worklights available, turn them on and add some diffusion to soften the light. I often use a piece of printer paper taped to a flashlight to give a larger surface area of light as a secondary light source (either a flat piece, or more like a bonnet with both ends of the paper taped to the flashlight). -On-camera flash can and should be diffused too if you must use it - wax paper or plastic helps diffuse the light. Imagine a pipe clamp or omega-symbol-shaped ( Ω ) piece taped around the flash to increase the light's surface area. Just be sure to not cover the camera lens, or you may get lens flare or other problems, especially on cell phones where the flash is millimeters away from the lens itself. For all shooting: -If you only have one light to shoot with - diffuse it. There are two good ways to do so - something the light must go through (wax paper, thin fabrics, tupperware, thin white garbage bags, etc), or something the light is bounced off of before hitting your subject (cardboard, foamcore, thicker fabrics, large storage container lid, even printer paper). Either way, make sure to give the light at least a little distance to spread out before diffusing it - you'll have a larger surface area that way. -For details, don't just shoot with the light directly aimed at the detail. Experiment, but try angling the light 45° offset from the subject so there is some shadow in the detail - it will stand out much better this way. I will often use a diffused flashlight for this type of work if I don't want to get a large setup out for a single shot -Hot spots are super bright spots where light has not been diffused enough and shines directly at the lens, causing areas that have washed out white spots with zero detail, and may cause underexposure. Be especially careful of this on stainless/nickel guns, though you can get this on any super shiny surface (including backgrounds, optics, and blued guns). Most often caused by the sun or camera flash -Remember backgrounds matter, too. Shiny surfaces like marble countertops may reflect light back and cause hot spots and inaccurate exposures, a black background may make your subject not stand out enough (and the camera may overexpose the shot). A cluttered background may be distracting from your subject too. -If the only possible way to take a picture is under dim light (sorry cell phone cameras, you're not gonna cut it here), use a tripod and slow shutter speed with a remote or delayed shutter release to expose the subject for a much longer time - it might take seconds to get a proper exposure, so don't move the camera/tripod, or even walk around behind the camera -Raise the subject off the background if possible. If you can evenly raise the subject off the background an inch, you can diffuse shadows a bit, especially with lots of diffused light. Any small objects (that won't shift) that you can hide under the subject to raise it will help. -Don't forget about your own (or the camera's) shadow. The larger the surface area of lighting, the less your shadow will show up. The more direct and pinpoint the light source, the harder and darker your shadow will be. Think noontime sunlight vs florescent office light. -You should notice I keep saying reflective surface or white ____ when talking about bouncing light - there is a reason for this. The most ideal colors are silver or white, though lighter greys or gold can also work. Other colors will not bounce light as well and/or will add unwanted colors to your picture. Don't use a mirror as a bounce, except when used to add indirect lighting (such as directing more light onto the ceiling). Remember, the goal is a large, broad, even, diffused, soft kind of light. A white ceiling with lots of light directed on it is potentially many square feet of bright light, while even the external camera flash on an SLR is only a few square inches. A cell phone camera flash can be measured in square millimeters. Did I mention diffuse your light? ____________________________________________________________ OK, onto focus. Cameras need CONTRAST to focus. Without enough light, a camera probably can't focus anyway, so that's why I covered lighting first. ALL LENSES HAVE A MINIMUM FOCUS DISTANCE. GETTING CLOSER TO YOUR SUBJECT IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER! I see so many pictures where someone tried to get too close to capture detail and failed miserably. With ~90% of cameras and lenses, if you are closer to your subject than 3" away, you're probably not going to get focus on the area you want in focus - if anything. If your camera cannot focus on the subject, try these things first: -MOVE BACK (you are probably be too close) -Get better/more light (try angling the light source a little differently so there is increased contrast the camera can grab focus on, and make sure no light is shining directly into the lens itself [see hot spots above]) -Try focusing somewhere else on the subject (i.e. a full stock AR doesn’t have much detail on the stock, but the receiver or rail or handgrip probably has a lot of textures/details, which means contrast the camera can grab focus on) -Clean your lens (especially cell phone cameras, bright light hitting a dirty lens full of fingerprints and dust can't focus as well as a clean lens) -If on an SLR, make sure you're not set to manual focus (some of those MF switches are easy to hit) If your camera has optical zoom* and you want to get more detail, it is often better to step back and zoom in than it is to just get closer with the camera. Be aware certain lenses change their minimum focus distance when zooming. SLR owners - while your camera may have a macro mode, unless your lens is designed as a macro lens, you are only changing settings of the camera, NOT allowing a closer minimum focus distance. *Optical zoom is what the camera lens itself can do. Digital zoom is interpolation beyond whatever image you'd get at the highest optical zoom. Note that digital zoom is crap. YOU ARE NOT 'ZOOMING" - YOU ARE CROPPING. Only use it for times where you don't want to do any cropping after you take the picture. As of writing this, very very very few cell phones have any optical zoom whatsoever, only digital zoom. Select where to focus. Many cameras allow you to select the focus area. Many cell phones will allow you to tap the screen where you want to focus. A P&S camera will usually show you where it is focusing if you halfway-depress the shutter button, same for most SLR cameras, but you can almost always select which specific focus point you want to use on an SLR. Some cameras have the option of zooming in (during live view) on the focused area to preview the exact focus - especially useful if on a tripod. Just remember to pick areas that have enough contrast that the camera can achieve focus. With decent lighting, your shutter speeds should be adequate enough to prevent your own movement from blurring the shot. If you must shoot in poor light, you'll have slow shutter speeds, which introduces blur. Holding a camera at arms length is the absolute worst way to take a picture - you want as much steady, sturdy support as you can get for a clear, sharp shot. A tripod is best, but make sure the camera setup is not too heavy so that the camera doesn't tip over. If the camera/lens has it, image stabilization will likely help for marginal shutter speeds. Resting an edge of the camera (NEVER A LENS BARREL) on a sturdy surface will help. If nothing else, take your non-camera hand and grip your opposite shoulder (making a triangle with your non-camera arm and back), and then resting the camera inside the ^ formed by your arm - even better results will occur if you can sit or lean against something using that method. If your camera has it, use a continuous shooting mode and hold down the shutter release for a few shots in a row. Much like jerking a trigger screws up your shooting, jerking the shutter release screws up your....shooting. Resting my camera in the ^ of my arm, leaning against a wall, and using burst mode has gotten shots I could absolutely never have gotten otherwise with the gear I had with me. You'll have a lot of terrible shots you have to delete, but it can be worth it. ____________________________________________________________ One other general tip before you go: CHECK YOUR RESULTS BEFORE YOU PUT EVERYTHING AWAY. I'm ashamed to admit that I've screwed up this basic step more than once, and it takes way less time to check your pictures came out how you wanted than it does to set up again and put away everything two times. ____________________________________________________________ If you keep these tips in mind when shooting, your pictures should come out much better. With some experimentation, they should be very easy to implement into your photography, without adding much time to however you typically set up to shoot now. Quality photos increase the quality of almost any content you are posting. They can be helpful for people needing reference photos, make your items look that much better when you want to show off, or help you when selling items. I flat out refuse to buy from private sellers using terrible photos - I always suspect they are covering up something. Quality photos also may help you out in case someone claims damage that was not there when you sold the item. Good luck and happy shooting! -Malice

When I first started shooting, I would regularly go through 1 to 2 bricks of .22s a session, on my own, mostly with a bolt action rifle, plus probably at least a box or two of 9mm. I'd typically go about every month to 1.5 months. Hours of shooting cost $35 (2 bricks of .22) plus a $10 lane rental for the day. When I was done, the ground around me was littered with more spent casings than all but the most outrageous Hollywood blockbusters. The place I shot had pieces of wood hanging on ropes, usually 9 pieces per lane, and I would shoot away chunks of them from the bottom up. I had to switch lanes at least once because I ran out of wood to shoot. I really miss reactive targets - shooting those wood chunks was hugely fun. I still spend the vast majority of my time on rimfires at outdoor ranges. While I still enjoy a good mag dump, I have slowed way down from my early days. My last range trip, I brought only two .22 bolt guns, went through about 200 rounds between the two, and was there about 2 1/2 hours. Other times, I might spend 4.5 hours on the range; 60% of my time on precision rimfires on the rifle range (likely 100-250 rounds), 10% on centerfire rifle on the rifle range (likely 20-80 rounds), 15% on plinking rimfire on the rimfire range (including .22 pistols) (likely 100+ rounds of the cheapest crap that will run), and 15% on centerfire pistols on the pistol range (likely 50-150 rounds). I'd say outdoor range, bare minimum for me is 2 hours, maximum of around 5 hours Clays - I almost always end up being late for NJGF outings, so I'm usually only there ~2 hours and 50-100 rounds downrange I've only shot indoors once, for an hour, and dunno if I'd really care to go back- there was an overwhelming feeling of having to rush. I'd rather spend the money on ammo since I already have a year membership at my outdoor range, and don't feel like I have to rush the entire time.

My serious .22 wears a SWFA SS 16x42 30mm tube. Quite impressed with it so far. Only complaint is the turret clicks are a tad more mushy than Id like. My .17hmr Savage wears a Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40 1", also a very nice scope. If memory serves me, both were in the $300 range. Another .22 wears a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire 4-12x40 BDC. Decent scope, but nowhere near the level of the previous 2, which I would expect since it was $130 or $180. I have a BSA sweet 17 3-9x40 which was decent for the price. Probably the nicest super cheap scope I have. Simmons 4x32 and 3-9x32 are dirt cheap scopes and at/under 3x or 4x are fine and clear enough for shorter ranges. Not a fan above 6x. Worst scope I ever wasted money on was a Tasco 6-24x40 for around $90. Might be passable under 16x, but anything more, you might as well put some layers of saran wrap in front of the lens. I wanted something I could use as a pseudo spotting scope for .22 bulletholes at 100 yards, but the scope was so blurry you couldn't make out any useful details at 24x better than a good 14x or 16x scope.

When I was far younger and dumber, I'd gone past the police range in my town and found a spent 9mm or .40 casing and brought it into school. Teacher saw it and I got a "don't bring that in again" lecture for a few seconds. That was the end of it. Then again, I also used a knife in school in front of the vice principal and a cop without them even saying a thing. This was back in the good old days... The distant-past, long-forgotten years of ~1996 and ~1998/9? I also had a spent casing in a jacket pocket I wore to jury duty, which I didn't even notice until I was leaving the courthouse. It somehow managed to go into a pocket, then into the finger of a glove. That probably would have been an awkward conversation with the court officers. ...Apparently me and spent casings are a bad mix.

There are very few times I get extra warranties, but tire road hazard warranty is one I always get. I have replaced 3 or 4 tires under warranty, while the added cost was maybe that of 1 extra tire over all the tires I have purchased. Won't help a bent rim, but softens the blow to your wallet a little.

So in another thread, there was a quick discussion about the possibility of a rimfire shoot at Clinton. Since I don't have a hunting license, I'm not sure of regulations. (I know rimfire rifles only, no handguns, and obvious 15rd limits for any semi-autos. Beyond that, not sure.) I figure it could be useful for someone who might want to try a few different rimfire options, or maybe for wives/kids who might be intimidated by bigger calibers. I've got the following I'd be happy to offer up Savage Mark II BRJ .22LR bolt action with 16x SWFA SS scope (which I only run target/match ammo through) Savage 93R17TR .17HMR bolt action with Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40 scope Henry H001 .22 S/L/LR lever action (with/without BSA 3-9x32 scope) Marlin XT-22 .22LR bolt action with Nikon Prostaff Rimfire 4-12x40 scope GSG522SD .22LR HV semi-auto mp5sd2 clone with 4x ACOG knockoff A few have either new scopes or have had scopes moved to a different rifle, so I'd want to get them zeroed before this happens. Anyone have any interest? And if so, who has a license? Any thoughts/suggestions welcomed...

I've got the following I'd be happy to offer up Savage Mark II BRJ .22LR bolt action with 16x SWFA SS scope (which I only run target/match ammo through) Savage 93R17TR .17HMR bolt action with Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40 scope Henry H001 .22 S/L/LR lever action (with/without BSA 3-9x32 scope) Marlin XT-22 .22LR bolt action with Nikon Prostaff Rimfire 4-12x40 scope GSG522SD .22LR HV semi-auto mp5sd2 clone with 4x ACOG knockoff A few have either new scopes or have had scopes moved to a different rifle, so I'd want to get them zeroed before this happens.

You know, sorta sounds like we need a rimfire shootout in Clinton sometime. I've got a few I'd bring out, but no hunting license. At least we wouldn't have to be concerned with throwers... What restrictions are there for rimfires besides rifles only? Any .22 S/L/LR, 17HMR, .17 HM2, .22 WMR, .17 WSM, right? Any mag restrictions besides 15rd for semis?

I'm sure there are plenty of compliant models online then, pay a transfer and you're GtG. Sub 6c/rd ammo is out there. Might not be 3.4c like a few years ago (at least not that i have seen), but still cheap. Order by the case, maybe it will get down that low. Just don't get into match stuff. I bought a single box (50rds) of Lapua Midas+ that was the same price as the cheapest brick I ever bought...I'm glad my rifle didn't seem to really like it any more than the cheaper Center-x. 34c/rd for Midas+ rimfire, and that isn't even the most expensive stuff.