Malice4you

Well, if someone is the "cheating with a stripper" type, this might be a good way to explain away the glitter all over em...

Screw it, I'll necropost. It's a shame the only active(ish) threads are ARs/Glocks/Berettas. I like variety.... Savage Mark II BRJ .22LR, with SWFA 16x42 SS in Weaver 30mm 4 hole medium rings, Harris bipod, Apachee trigger upgrade, and Pure Precision bolt knob. Since I got this thing a year and a half ago, it has been the go-to rifle for me virtually every range day.

Heres the easy guide to getting your CCW in NJ. Shhh, don't tell anyone though, don't want just anyone to get one! Are you rich? Are you powerful? Are you politically connected? Are you currently dead? Are you, by name, currently and publicly on ISIS' "most wanted dead" list? Have you (or are you currently) been kidnapped by angry bikers because you acidentally scuffed the bike belonging to Skullbasher (the biker gang's leader)? If you answered no to any of those questions, then you will not be getting a NJ CCW. If you answered yes to *all* of the above questions, you might qualify. However, there IS another way in NJ. You can carry concealed in NJ all the time - without a permit - as long as you are committing other crimes and/or have a criminal record, then it is apparently just fine!* *Jail time may still occur, YMMV, not responsible for loss of life/family/friends/freedom/time/job/legal fees/money/guns/etc, i am not a lawyer, etc. Does not qualify for legal NJ gun owners.

I've got a Savage Mark II BRJ which features the original boyd's wooden stock that came with it. I have an Apachee trigger mod in the rifle, set to roughly 16oz trigger pull. Rifle is capable of sub-1" groups at 100yds when I do my part and feed it decent ammo, and I've gotten sub-0.7" groups fairly regularly lately with Lapua Center-X. I can't afford an Anschutz rifle yet (though I've found a few that make them realistic options much sooner than expected.) In the meantime, I'm seriously thinking of getting the Savage rifle action bedded and hopefully get that last little extra bit of accuracy outta the rifle. I'm not quite prepared to go to a chassis system just yet. I'm thinking of bringing the rifle somewhere to get it glass bedded - I'd rather have someone who does this regularly do it than do it myself. Does anyone have any experience with anyone who would do this properly in Northern NJ (I'm in Morris County) who I should look into? (and any ideas of rough cost?) Thanks! I've found Artisan Gun Works in Andover (unknown pricing), and The Shooters Corner in Lake Hopatcong (apparently $200?) so far, but always open to suggestions or reviews. Side-question - when a rifle is booked into a gunsmith's books, you don't have to do a NICS again when picking up, right? Would be annoying to have spend an extra $15.

Not sure if you mean qualify as in say pistol shooting qualifications or as in belonging to a range, but if you mean the latter, if you're current on your efga, you should be good far as I know. https://www.efga.net/about/

A clear plastic bag to work inside or at least a damn clean area where those %^*$ing parts will be easier to spot if/when they fly. And tape on tools or around strategic locations for less chance of marring. I followed instructions from ARFCOM (I think) and even my first one really only took 30-45 minutes going really slow and paranoid. It feels more intimidating that first time before you do one. After you're done, you question both "why was I so worried about this?", and "why didn't I do this way sooner?" Good luck

From memory (XP days), you allow it to reactivate and no problems - took all of a minute if that. As long as you still have other hardware you had in the system when it was originally activated, you *should* be fine. I think they look for things like MAC address, HDD serial #, and various other hardware attributes. In theory, IF it gives you problems, can always call and explain the manufacturer sent you a replacement motherboard, and you may have to read a super long string of characters over the phone, but even that was only a ~10 minute max process when I have had to do something like that.

I just can't recall ever having seen a bios screen say anything about a change in memory before, but i also never buy prebuilt systems, so I suppose it might be an HP "convenience" feature for people who bought memory upgrades or went in for service. Thats the only reason I asked. I have changed enough hardware on a system in a short period that windows itself wanted to re-up its activation, which I might have expected here. I think something like video card upgrade, additional ram, and an extra hdd were enough changes that windows thought it was a different system, though that was back in days of xp. I dunno if newer a newer OS is smarter.

Hope the new mobo solved the issue for ya. What do you mean by alerted to change in installed memory? Does the mobo not handle as much memory? Just curious. And it's great how far video processing has come. I remember the fist video I ever tried to edit in Premiere. Was a short ~4 minute 640x480 video. Render time on a Pentium II 266 was somewhere around 24 hours. And then the video didn't work anyway. Wonder how many seconds it would take these days on even my wimpiest of systems... First video stream recording (live TV) I did was on a 500MHz system, and any kind of fast motion caused the video capture to stumble and hang up for a second or two because it was so close to the edge of unusable - long before hardware acceleration of encoding on video cards.

I hope there's at least one person who lives in the town who posts a quality picture of the yellow card online so that they can be copied and counterfeited. (Much like a picture I've seen of a proud mother holding her kid's first credit card. Including the card number and date in the picture, clearly legible...) I'd love to see 15,000 cars with yellow tags in the town that day... Maybe have people hand them out just over the border in a neighboring town. Also, I hope the town's instructions for placing them in a window is somehow illegal - something like tape it to your windshield, and other towns start giving those drivers (with the tags) obstructed view tickets.

At least no one will mistake it for a gun...

Well, that is promising, and I hope it is as simple as reseating RAM. As for caps, almost any of that style can go bad under the right (wrong) conditions, though specific years and batches have been far worse than most.

Don't wanna spoil anything, so someone I'll call Varth Dader coming back to life and killing everyone was unexpected. The 30 minutes of blank screen (ok, just a field of stars) after everyone died was unexpected, too. I have zero idea who they bribed to get the pg13 rating with that gratuitous Rey scene, but they gotta throw in stuff for the adults, and I thank them for it. Saw it Thursday too, and I was quite happy with it. Then again, i have enjoyed iv,v, vi, vii, and viii, plus r1. I find it funny that the actual Disney movies feel far less Disney than I/II/III, which I wish I had the skills to edit down to one movie and eliminate most of the crap in them and make into one I can stand watching - I watch everything in order before each new one comes out. I am sad I have to wait months to watch it with my surround system, theater sound setups don't usually sound all that great to me - usually overdriven and a bit too much treble for my tastes.

Initial thoughts were overheating, psu, or bad capacitor. Look for cpuid (i believe) HWmonitor and install, see if anything is spiking to unsafe levels or if any fans are at 0rpm that should be spinning. If you look up the cpu, you can find thermal specs from intel. Not sure of what options are in 10, but control panel > power options - take a look it isnt set to any stupid settings. Check that there isnt a cable in any fans, or a covering of dust blocking any heatsinks. The above pics are helpful. Look for that, but also look if any caps are at an angle other than perpendicular to mobo. Sometimes they go from the bottom instead. Anything like that is gonna cause problems.

Something else I forgot to mention, a lot of programs have a basic (easy) install and an advanced/custom install option. I would suggest for almost all programs to use the advanced install. Both do the same thing, but there are usually more options available on the advanced, such as not installing the ever-soooooooo-useful-you-guys-really-just-try-it free toolbar that is automatically installed by the easy install option. You can usually just click next next next on advanced install, but you can select/deselect options you might want or not want. Sometimes this allows you to bypass the free nagwar....errr...trial of software and just use the free version from the start. If you don't understand something, look it up online. I have seen so many computers loaded with extra crap no one wants because of stuff like the easy install option. On a somewhat-topic-related note, avg free for android 6.8.3 has been seriously draining my phone battery since it was updated about a week ago, 20-30% of daily "use" going to avg. I'm not the only one, according to recent reviews of the app. If you use it and get shit battery life, check if avg is using hours of cpu time...

All the antivirus software out there is bloated, resource hungry crap these days. Norton was first i noticed to balloon with a million useless extra 'features' but these days, they all have so much crap in em they seem to be viruses themselves. Sure slow down a system worse than some viruses... I currently use avg on most of my systems (win7 tho), both paid and free. Even the paid one has "features" they expect you to pay more for to unlock, which is bullshit. I have used avg, kasperski, panda, ca, and probably others I am forgetting over the years. All will miss stuff, none are perfect. Microtransactions in antivirus is coming, Im sure - can't wait til they decide deleting a virus is only $1.99 each, or $29.99 for unlimited virus removal for a month...if it works for games and malware, they will try it... Be smart, use a decent browser, run adblock and noscript, and add malwarebytes to your scanning and you should be ok for most things. And don't allow anyone on the computer you don't need to. It amazes me how quickly some people are capable of fucking up a computer...

Usually 2 - same as right now. And everything into one text. Unlike an ex. Who would text Like this And this And a little of this A few words Then get another text And it drove me Up the wall Because really Is it that hard To just wait 2 extra seconds To think of what You want to say And add it? You get 140 characters...

While I wish there were no restrictions, but living in reality, I wish burst were somehow a less regulated and realistically attainable feature. Say post 86 burst were somehow legal, or new manufacture burst could be a thing, without being military/LE/FFL...hell, turn it into a stamp thing if they must, as long as there is a growing supply instead of a group that can never get bigger. One can dream... That said, being on ranges with some people is scary enough without them being able to keep their booger hook on the happy switch and keep firing as they can't properly handle their firearm... the g18 got pretty rambunctious...

Agree with much of this (that I have knowledge of). Nothing ruins watching a movie or tv like having the worthless, tinny TV speakers putting out the audio. Don't skimp on speakers. The home theater in a box systems usually have tiny speakers not much better than the TV speakers (5 or 7 crappy speakers isn't really any better than 2 crappy speakers...) I am partial to Definitive Technology speakers (i've got 10 so far.) I dunno your budget, but they hit way above their weight class, and many reviews say they rival speakers 2 to 4 times their price. BP6B and studiomonitor series should be relatively affordable. Definitive also has a theater in a box system which I imagine would be quite decent. Best Buy Magnolia may have some to try out - you would be amazed the sound these fairly small speakers can put out. I have run Yamaha and Pioneer amps and been very happy with them, though now that I have a 4k tv, i am considering an upgrade since what i have only supports full hd. I would rather (and do) run a great speaker setup with a so-so TV than an excellent TV with crappy audio.

Nice. Works well for that knife. Amazing how much the flat grind changes the look of the enduras... Btw, you're missing a screw on the clip.

Good tires may be the difference between almost having an accident, and having an accident. Do not skimp. It scares the hell outta me there are people who drive around on those buy 3 tires for $100 get one free kinda deals... I would consider the tire road hazard warranty. I have gotten them for every tire I've bought for years, and I've had to use them 3 or 4 times, while only adding $10 or 15 a tire. Besides NJ gun laws that suck, NJ roads are also pretty shitty.

Everyone seems to want smart TVs these days. I don't particularly want the TV to be smart, since I have computers, xbox, cable, and bluray hooked to the tv (and/or receiver to tv), and the nest of wires (and pile of remotes) for everything doesnt bother me. I will say certain HDMI versions support ethernet over HDMI, so if there is anything networked hooked via HDMI, I suppose it is possible for the signal to get out to the net, but unlikely. I thought it was strange to have an end user license when I got my new tv...nothing about a mic or recording in there though. I would bite the bullet, and just make sure you go through the settings to disable features you dont want.

I tend to prefer going on my own most of the time, mainly because it allows me to go at times when there will likely be the fewest random people at the range. The most important advice I can give you is this: If your gun ever jams, make sure to throw it over the wall a few times. Sadly, that IS the private range I belong to...

$40-75 knives can have decent steels, decent grip materials, and decent build quality. Some companies make better quality stuff than others do at that price point. There are a lot of companies putting out mediocre products around that price point when compared to others of similar prices. There are a lot of 400 series stainless, AUS6, AUS8, 8Cr13..., etc blades priced similarly to VG-10, H1, CPM-S30V, ATS-34, 154CM, or ATS-55 blades out there. Sometimes, you can even find some of the cheaper 'supersteels' at the higher end of the price range (I've gotten ZDP-189 for under $80). If properly sharpened, a less expensive knife will likely last many years, though it may not last as long under heavy use. At the $200+ point, you typically are getting significantly better steel, better/fancier handle materials, better build quality, better heat treatment, more exotic lock mechanisms, and/or possibly something of limited production or even basic 'custom'. One of the biggest things about a good knife is the heat treatment - even a good steel with a bad heat treatment won't hold an edge well. I haven't kept up with a lot of the newer expensive supersteels, but you may find stuff like CPM-S90V, ZDP-189, CPM-M4, Elmax, or D2 in these knives, or at least stuff like CPM-S30V. These steels typically will hold an edge for substantially more use between sharpenings. Fluted or anodized titanium, carbon fiber, exotic woods, or other special scales may be another part of the cost. These knives also tend to hold a value better than those of the cheaper, mass-produced knives. If these attributes are worth the extra cost is up to you.

Been happy with my LC9S pro. I was expecting a lot more kick for such a lightweight gun, but I was pleasantly surprised. I will say I have the pinky extension on all my mags, since I have larger hands. Weight when carried OWB around the house, I forget it's even there sometimes. I gotta get an IWB holster, but seeing how I still don't have a CCW permit for anywhere, it hasn't been a high priority.