when_shtf

Yes, on the older 4X4's you need to roll backwards to unlock the front hubs after engaging 2WD.

If you go to del-ton.com you can spec-out your own compliant upper. I have one on order.

There was a period of time where the citizens were actually the "rulers" of the states. Now, We The People refer to our elected representatives as "leaders" and "rulers". How did we get this up-side-down?

Just to close the loop in case anyone searches on this in the future... The stainless steel brush did the trick. My cylinders still don't look anything like the S&W cylinders in Malsua's photo (post #24), but all of the carbon is out and .357's now extract. Even though I cleaned the gun after each use (with a bronze brush) I think that the cylinders got carbon fouled over time to the point that I couldn't eject the .357's. That's why I suspected the Federal rounds...it just happened to occur with a new box. I now know that it would have happened with any .357. I'd still like to have the cylinders honed, but for now I can fire, and eject, .357's once again. Thanks to M4BGRINGO for suggesting the SS brush.

If you're looking for a shop with a great store front (things to see & touch), Sportsman Rendezvous in Flemington is a great store. Good prices, selection and nice people too.

Yeah, I agree that a .357 is a great first handgun. You can shoot inexpensive .38 Specials all day long and impress yourself with more potent .357's when you feel like spending some money.

For sure. It's always good to have a spotter when shooting a new gun.

That's not the guns fault It may take a trip or two to the range to connect with the gun. The M&P 22 is a fine handgun.

If the store owner doesn't know you, then the FID is a good first step to establishing credibility.

Thanks Vlad. I had your virtual voice in my head as I made my decision.

It's usually cost prohibitive to power the entire house with a portable generator. In order to properly size the generator to your needs, you need to determine your emergency requirements. While it's understandable to want to run the refrigerator and the family room, don't forget to include the heat (boiler or furnace), DHW and if you have a well, the well pump. If your DHW is an electric source, a 5 to 6Kw generator will not be large enough as the DHW heater will consume 5Kw by itself. I have an old 5.5Kw from Sears (Honda engine) that I purchased over 10 years ago. It puts out a very "smooth" 240VAC. Some of the less expensive models put out a "lumpy" 240VAC (ranging from 210 to 250VAC). To me, this is the most important feature. An auto governed unit is not desirable. On the surface it sounds like a great idea (low rpm with no load, high rpm under load) until you start popping breakers because the in-rush was too great for the unit to respond in time. Regarding reliability, even a good unit can fail early in the hands of an inept owner; and a "value" unit can last decades in the hands of someone who is willing to give it some TLC. Fuel must be drained when stored. Oil must be changed as required. I store my generator in the garage, out of the elements. It looks the same today as the day I brought it home. Northern Tool (http://www.northerntool.com/) is a good place to shop. Don't forget to budget for a sub-panel, 10/4 cable and a 240VDC outdoor hook-up.

Thank you everyone for the discussion on the M&P15 Sport. While I do like the rifle, I decided to build (more accurately assemble) my own. I think the M&P15 Sport represents a good value in the market for a buy-n-fire AR, but in the end I believe there is better value in assembling one from a competed upper and completed lower. Here's what I ordered: Del-Tron 16" Light Weight Custom Upper -$480 (plus 25 shipping) (1x9, Chrome Lined Barrel), including bolt & carrier,CAR hand guards, Phantom aggressive end Comp/Brake (pinned & welded), flat top upper with M4 feed ramps, charging handle & CAR gas tube New Frontier Armory LW-15 Polymer Complete Lower - $99 (includes shipping). I was looking for a Plum Crazy lower and discovered this one. After the rifle is built I'll have to get it into the hands of an AR expert to get their opinion. Magpul GEN2 MBUS Rear Site $47 MTN Armory 15/30 Polymer Pmag's $17 Each (I got 3) I have about $665 (including shipping) into this AR before fees. The lower was shipped through Jim Flynn and he charges a $35 transfer fee and $15 NICS. So for about $715 I got a custom AR. Assembly should take 3 minutes, 5 minutes if I drink a glass of water during the process. With the lightweight barrel and polymer lower and magazine, this should be a very light rifle. I'll start a thread when it's all together. The upper wont be here for 4 to 6 weeks. I can't wait to shoot it! Once again, thanks for helping me decide on the correct path (for me).

I just ordered 25 boxes of Herter's .223 from Cabela's for $4.49 per box. This can be combined with a ONE PENNY shipping deal. You just have to order clothing or footwear at any value. The shipping code is "32PENNY". Shipping deal ends March 6th. The ammo deal happens at Cabela's on an hour-to-hour basis.

I just looked at the specs of the Citadel M-1 carbine. The specs are no different then 1/2-dozen semi-auto 22LR's on the market. Cool weapon. I might just get one in black.

Truth. I would have left and never participated in that firing line.

I purchased 1,000 rounds of Winchester M-22 at Dick's this weekend for $49.99. Not bad for a local price.

I hear your question 5x5, but I ain't answering it. Farmers can get as many as they want with whatever they have.

Ah, another of your own property. Man, my part of the state is very different then most of where y'all live. We walk around with rifles from home to neighbors property. It's just not a "strange" thing to do. I see neighbors walking down the road with rifles to other hunting locations all season long. I've never heard of the Troopers giving anyone a hard time. I can see how those of you in "the 'burbs" have to live under different conditions, but quite frankly, I'd just move.

Why wouldn't this example fall under "another residence"? I'm not catching the difference between driving to another residence or walking .000001" across the property line. If this is breaking the law, then I've been a felon for most of my 49 years.

Wow, a lot of great ideas. I'm glad I asked. First, regarding the size. I have a unfinished 2600 sq.ft basement, so there's no need to be stingy on the size. I'm going to increase the size of the room to 24x24. Originally I was going to place the gun room next to a food pantry that I'm also building, but now I'll just make it part of, or a room within, the pantry. By going to 24 x 24 I now have three walls that are impenetrable (unless they bring a track hoe) and I only have to build one 24' reinforced wall. Regarding the strength. If someone comes to my house with the specific intent to break into this room, more then likely they will bring whatever is needed to gain access, regardless of how it is built. I'm trying to defend against the opportunist that isn't traveling with a chain saw, saws-all or sledge hammer. I could build the reinforced wall out of block, but I really don't like working with block, bar and cement. I've used aluminum studs in the past and I just can't see how they are stronger then 2x4's. I think I will build using 4x4 6" O.C. That, with the plywood, steel mesh and drywall; well that will slow down just about anyone. I'll also use the mesh/plywood/drywall sandwich on the ceiling. gimmemym1, your room looks great. I especially like the use of slat board - that will be going in my room as well. The door & lock will take a little more research. I like the idea of turning this room into a "safe room", being able to lock it from the inside and using a peep-hole to see who is outside. Having locking bars are a real good idea. I'd also like a lock that engages the ceiling, floor, and both jambs. I don't want an electric lock as this has to work without power. I'm embarrassed to admit this, but this is my "prepper paradise" (I'm not an over-the-top prepper, but I do feel as though I have a duty to protect my family). In that regard Adam, I agree that the less people know, the better. Please keep the ideas flowing. The room can always get better.

I'm going to build a 6' x 12' gun room in my basement. By building it in the basement I have two impenetrable walls. Here is what I'm thinking for the other two walls: 1. 2x4 studs, 6" O.C. 2. Drill 1" bores in the studs every 12" and insert steel bars horizontally 3. Sheath both sides of the wall (interior/exterior) with 3/4" plywood with 1/2 drywall overlay 4. Sheath ceiling with 3/4 plywood, cement board & 1/2 drywall 5. Steel door with hidden swing pins and a BAL (big a** lock - TBD) I'm not trying to build a safe, but a room that will take considerable effort and machinery to penetrate. I will keep my guns and ammo in this room and install a dedicated workbench for cleaning & gunsmith type stuff. Any other suggestions?

I love my .357M. It's just an honest weapon that will never let you down. Nice photography. Is that your day job?

No worries. My high school had a rifle team as well. I graduated in '81...everything was better then.

I ordered today 3 of the MTN Armory 15/30 Pmags @ $17 each. They are having website issues, so if you want to order from them, give 'em a call. Always nice talking to people from Montana.

I've been looking at the Leatherwood CMR for my AR build. http://hi-luxoptics.com/product/riflescopes/tactical-scopes/cmr-series/ Check out the MAC video at the bottom of the page...that guy could sell ice to Eskimo's. The street price is in the low $300 range. Works as a red-dot as well as a 4x scope.