Screwball

Agreed... if you can remove the rivet in a free state, you can do it in NJ. Equates to not being permanent.

I’ve personally spent well over $1,000 on 15 rounders... whether factory (usually a few dollars more than 17 rounders) or modified (have to pay for the work). I even bought a .40 M&P Pro specifically because the magazines hold 15. That number also doesn’t include the $450 FBI 10mm 15 round magazine... If someone really wanted to push it, I’m sure it could be overturned easily with receipts of costs. You force people to spend more, then make them go with a lower capacity, and make those magazines, that really have no resale, illegal. Or decide they will include Mini-Shells as the count of capacity. Then, you are down for two counts.

I actually do... Being nobody stated anything about exemptions prior to my post, and the fact you specifically stated “firearm...” opposed to “semi-auto...” or mentioned anything about exemptions (your post was quoted, if you need to look back). Hell, I even said that I’m out of state with just an iPhone, so not really in a position to research proposed legislation. Maybe you should double check your posts, as that post of yours I quoted put in more confusion to this thread than anything else (and there was posts early on talking about paying $50 to get a 60 round drum). I am glad there are members that actually read the proposed legislation, and clarified your misgivings. I think you’d be better off with that then worrying about my career path. In regards to the Henry 1860 copies being not common... how about 1866/1892 copies? Depending on barrel length, you can go over 10 rounds. Was also pointed out the KSG, as you wrongly used “firearms” in that post. The Air-Service M1903 magazines go over 15, and were legal prior to this stuff... as well as Mauser 98s with Trench Magazines.

Florida is a nice state to visit... but unless you have an out of state pension, you cannot survive down here. My sister/brother-in-law moved down to Deltona somewhere in the 2008 timeframe. He worked Florida DOT, which was incorporated into Highway Patrol. Was going to go for Sergeant, and his salary was less than most people in NJ working at a fast-food restaurant. They moved back to NJ, and even with the higher costs of living, they are doing A LOT better. In regards to politics, I’m down in FL now, and have had my LCP on me the entire time. Problem is that when your conservative group is made up with retirees, it doesn’t take more than a few years for your demographic to change drastically. I mean no disrespect for older members, but the youth of FL doesn’t usually have the same viewpoint of the “greater” generation (not to mention that a lot of FL residents have another home up north). As time goes, more of that generation pass away... and demographics shift. Then you get this Hogg and his friends running the state within a few years.

Just going by info read in the thread. I’m in FL, with just an iPhone. Kind of difficult to read that far into it. If I read a post that specifically says “a firearm,” that is different than “a semi-automatic.” Maybe we will get down to the breakdown of the legislation in the next few posts, as there has been a lot of different views of it since the OP.

While I was not there (about 1,000 miles south in FL, which I’m heading back either Wednesday or Thursday), I would like to know some of the answers to capt14k’s questions. I mean, I really don’t have to give a s*** about it, as I’m out of NJ in the near future... but I would like to support groups while I’m here, who are working for our rights. I’m not going to just write of GOA or SAF because of a post here... I want to know why they weren’t there... whether their fault or those that setup the event. It isn’t completely to assign blame, unless they were aware of the event. If not, it should be brought up and those that set it up should learn from it... or have someone else set things up. These really shouldn’t be a popularity contest, and the best organizers should be at the helm. These other groups also have resources. In regards to the NRA... I’m a life member, but they really have a lot more to do for me to trust them besides going to one event. Likewise, the Mom group presence should have been considered. There are only so many available seats... who cares if that many people weren’t at the march, that really wasn’t covered correctly, anyways? People camp outside for days to get a new iPhone... I think filling those seats have a little more importance. And I will definitely agree on the scheduling. Even if I was in NJ, I wouldn’t have been able to take the entire Monday off... which usually is one of our busier days, and with my boss out of NJ, I would be expected to be there (getting away to help my fiancé come back up to NJ was a hard enough fight, and required me to put in a lot of work prior to leaving). If it was a Saturday or a Sunday, I work Saturday... but easier to get off. Have your main event a day or two earlier, then get people who could make it on Monday come, do a basic march, and get asses into seats... Whether it changes the outcome of voting or not, did the event yesterday stop anything? Did the event get wide publicity? I would never call 1,000+ people assembling a failure... but if gun owners in NJ really want to fight this assault, going to need to refine the tactics. If not, hello CA style gun laws.

Thanks for the heads up... But still will just take the gun out of state instead of giving NJ $50. So glad I didn’t get into a job that required me to stay here for 25 years. [emoji867]NJ

There are plenty... I have two; Marlin Model 60 and a Uberti 1860 Henry. I got to get a calendar and see where 180 days puts me. Because if I’m in FLETC, I’ll just drop anything affected to my godmother in PA before I leave. That Marlin is a gun my father bought me, which was my first gun. Wouldn’t modify it if I had to, and no way in hell would I hand it over. Not giving NJ $50 to keep a gun that is already legal. Kind of annoyed with the rest, as I was hoping to sell my 15 rounders to guys here, since I’m going to buy the right capacity magazines when I move. Colorado’s laws are pretty much disregarded, so likely no sales there. Glad I had to spend so much for 15 rounders, and the only ones I’ll keep are my M1As (sit a little lower than the 20s my cousin uses with his SOCOM in PA).

FL now requires a L/E agency to do it...

Slipping... [emoji107]

14” in Howell... and that is not counting anywhere near the 3’ piles that fell from the solar panels on roof. NM/TX looks better with each passing day.

I have a GSG5... pre-lawsuit. Love the gun. But I also swapped furniture out for H&K parts, so it is freaking heavy (MP5 solid stocks are heavy)! While I had no issue trading my 10/22 Takedown for my TAC-14, don’t think I could get rid of the GSG5. H&K slap is just too much fun (I do have a buffer to protect the handle).

Got a call from Mark... new switch housing/module is being shipped. Had me send him an email with my info to get it out to me. Didn’t question him on it, but I’m actually excited to get it in hand to see what is being sent... as well as what I’m swapping out. Should get it by the weekend, considering Streamlight is out of PA (think a few minutes from Oaks). Will be posting pictures and hopefully confirmation that the flicker is fixed. If it comes this weekend/early next week, might be pushed back a little bit. Driving a truck down to Florida for a client of my fiancé, then driving back with her/dogs/whatever crap that didn’t go on the trailer with the horses. No holster for the TLR-7 (plus, I want to practice with it more before using it), so that won’t be my carry gun for the trip.

Didn’t get a call, but did a little more investigation... Inside the light, there is a spring on the bulb side, but nothing on the inner terminal (positive). I can’t see the slide or dry-fire causing the battery to jump... but I guess anything is possible. Looking at it, I figured the switch was a self-contained unit, and had all the components other than the bulb and battery. The way they did the switch design is very interesting. In my pictures, you see the rubber switch assembly. All it is... a rubber boot. Think the rubber button plate for a remote control or a car remote. There are two disc pressure points on each side of the control board, which is like a cube coming out the back of the housing, and the rubber boot allows for it to be activated by push in or forward. The thing that struck me was how lacking the switch boot is... and held on with three screws. It sort of looks like those boots will be swappable, making remote switches easier to install. I’m actually hoping for a toggle setup, like the older TLRs, but I think Glock pressure switches will likely come out first. Depending how it fits in my holsters, I might consider something like that. Have one for my M&P to use with my TLR-1s, which I like... but rarely use. In regards to the upgrade, no idea on how it is a user install. Shy of the boot, everything else looks soldered in. Unless they are going to give a disk with a spring to shove in front of the battery... I’m stumped.

Completely agree... but a P229 magazine will not fit in a P226. Why I mentioned the vice versa part... because they are only one-way compatible. Similar to Glock 19 magazines cannot fit a Glock 17.

They have been around for a few years... heard both good and bad reviews of them. But that isn’t a bad price. Personally, if I want a non-hollow point for a specific reason, I look at Hornady loads with their FTX bullet (from the Critical Defense/Duty line). My go to ammo choice for my LCP.

Little asterisk to that... but to also point out, Compact magazines can’t fit in Full-Size guns (speaking to the “vice versa” part). They are too short. 9mm magazines were actually different from the .40/.357 magazines for some time in the P229. You couldn’t fit a .40 magazine in older 9mm P229 frames. Forget the story about the P226, but they used the .40 frame for 9mm pretty early. SIG eventually started the -1 or E2 frame/magazines (I’ve seen both labels, but SIG has made the switch... so, all new 9mm P229s are built on a common 9mm/.40/.357 frame). These slightly wider magazines have a capacity of 15 rounds, where as the older P228 9mm based magazines were 13 rounds. But both are labeled P229, with the exception of the older ones having P228/P229. Old magazines fit in the new 9mm frames, with slight movement in the magazine well. But new 15 round 9mm magazines DO NOT fit in the older P228/P229 9mm frames. Not an issue if you buy a new P229, but if you have an older model or a P228, can be a little frustrating. Add in MecGar doing 15 round P228 magazines (old dimensions, different follower/spring design to fit extra rounds), definitely something to remember when buying magazines.

One of these? Think he said the same about mine, as well. Gives me a rail on a gun that I don’t want to install a permanent rail on... screw looks. [emoji41]

Weaponlights, we are on the same page. Handhelds, I still prefer my Surefires. Now we just got to fix your shotgun brand, and you’d be good. [emoji23] It’s actually a feature, and even though I thought the same, I’m thinking it really is a feature the more I look into it. Ever have a multi-mode light on a long gun, like a Surefire 6PX Pro? Recoil can cause the spring against the battery to jolt the battery so the light acts like you pushed the button (toggling the modes; the battery disconnects from the light momentarily). Most designs alleviate that by adding a second spring on the other side of the battery... which you are correct about it being a connection issue. They put in a software component to stop that movement from shutting the light off completely or switching into strobe (if activated). I didn’t check the inside of the battery compartment, but I do know there is a spring on the lens end. Whether it is too sensitive and goes off while dry-firing/slide release, or a major design issue (actual battery jump), I’ll have to see what the fix is. Mark from Streamlight told me it was 4 milliseconds power down, where as your eye recovering from the muzzle flash is about 7 milliseconds. While shooting, likely will not notice the turning off... but he understood that people want it resolved. I didn’t go into how many Streamlights I own (4 TRL-1s, 1 TLR-3, 1 TLR-6, and 1 TLR-7), but he treated me like I was his only customer, which I actually appreciate. Had a crappy experience with Surefire C/S, so it means a lot to me. Fix will keep the light on, but still retain that software. Not an electrical engineer, so no idea how it was done. If the fix is user serviceable, I’m guessing there is a part swapped. Is it a second spring on the switch side? Maybe, but if it fixes the flicker, I’m down for it. Supposedly, people on AR15.com fixed it with a rubber band. Since there are people interested, will post up what the fix is, and compare the parts to see what they did. While I felt the same way about their testing, definitely respect them for fixing it. I think compact lights just are not lucky. Look at the XC1 and all of its original issues. Keeping confident that this is the fix, especially since I ordered/paid for holsters to fit my 30S with this light. I really don’t want to go back to the TLR-3... being 500 Lumens, in a smaller package, is better than 125 Lumens.

This might sound choppy, but I’m combining a few posts from other forums to make this thread. I feel it is definitely part review, part PSA, and part recommendation. So, I got my TLR-7 in the other day... If you buy one, check and see if the E-ring is installed. Don’t know if Streamlight doesn’t put it in so you can swap the key, but never had to install one on any of my other lights. Two come with it, as well as the tool to install/remove them, and the keys. Figured I’d mention it, as I unscrewed it all the way when I was looking it over. The screw isn’t finger tightenable anymore. I do like it is flush, but a nickel is probably your best tool for the light. Definitely have to thank Medtronic for instilling four years of carrying a nickel for the battery compartment of my insulin pump, then switching to a design on the belt clip. Guess I’ll just keep a nickel around for my TLR-7, especially if I carry it. [emoji41] Output is pretty good. My old light on the 30S was a TLR-3, so it is a big jump in Lumens. I also like the front battery loading, which likely would be beneficial for those going with the TLR-8. The lockout is nice, but it is just something I doubt I’ll ever use. Waterproof... it is nice, but never had an issue with the older designs that weren’t. The switch... I’m definitely up in the air on. It isn’t the traditional Streamlight switch that I love. But I was looking at the XC1, due to size. Hoping this switch will do me well, but I do see some potential issues. I unlocked the strobe feature, and wasn’t sure how to in the instructions. I thought you had to turn the light on/off ten times, whereas you just hit the button quick as s***, and hold on the 10th time. When I was trying to turn it on/off, I did notice myself outrunning the switch (didn’t turn on/off when it should have due to press). Something I need to train on the light and see if it is an issue (doubt it, as the switch to strobe didn’t cause any issue), so just something to consider. My other concern will be holster interaction on the switches. Remember, you can push the switch forward or in to turn the light on. Pulling out of an holster can at least do the forward, and would likely be quick enough to turn the light on constant instead of momentary. With that being said, here are some comparison pictures. My old light to the new... both I put the end of the frame at 3”, for reference. If you have a TLR-3, might be able to get some comparison before buying. And some to show profile on my 30S... One thing I hated about the TLR-3 was how it was positioned. You have three keys, and the one for the Glock had a lot of room between the light and the trigger guard. The TLR-7 is pretty damn close to touching the guard. Plus, you have six keys to figure out what will work with your gun. The one installed from the factory fits Glocks (UNIV-1). Fast forward a few days (actually yesterday when I found out about it), and I’m now unhappy with the light... but it likely will be taken care of. Flickers on dropping the slide, as well as when dry-firing. On AR15.com, a member contacted Streamlight. Said it is “anti-bounce software,” which powers the light off when a bounce is detected (for 4 milliseconds). Done to prevent the light from changing modes/shutting down. Contacted Streamlight earlier today, and played dumb. Wanted to see what they are telling people when questioned. Left a voicemail with the service manager, but was promised by the rep that transferred me to him that he will get back to me. Not going to keep a light that does that. Don’t get me wrong, it isn’t likely something that is going to be noticed when firing, but I don’t want it occurring. I spend $115 for the light, and $100+ on holsters for my Glock/TLR-7... I want the thing to stay on. Received a call back from Mark a little bit ago, confirmed what was posted on AR15.com. Told me that they are going to try to ship an upgraded part that the user can swap in themselves. Said might be completed by the end of this week, but possibly next week. Will contact those who report the issue, and let them know when they can expect to move forward with repair/upgrade. Also confirmed that the lights are good to go for shooting, just the flicker will be present until upgraded. Will add that they are actually one of my top companies that I’ve ever dealt with in regards to customer service. Will be a Streamlight customer for life if that is what I can expect from them. If people are interested in this thread, I will post what comes from this upgrade. If not, click the video above... I am going to keep the description in that up to date with everything that occurs until my light stays on through dry-fire practice.

Finally got my new barrel... Suarez International barrel. Skipped the porting, as it would be right along my TLR-1. Chinese barrel, but they do a good job of cleaning it up. Really like the gold bead, and the rib really makes it easier to sight. The first barrel I got had the extractor cut in the wrong place, so couldn’t close the bolt. S/I handled it the best they could. Was going to open it up, but they made the decision to go with a new barrel due to how far it was off. Unsure what I’m doing with the OEM barrel. Gun will be going to Robar, but unsure on if the second barrel will be sent along with it.

You mean the training tips during your session? Afterwards, if you review the data, touching the section of pie gives more info.

My P938 SAS... eventually will be getting it fully done in NP3 Plus, but want to get the round count a little higher before I do it. I also have a German P228, but don’t think I have any pictures of it. It looks like a P228... got it after I interned with the NJSP, being everyone gave it such high praise. Want to get a P7M8 for the same reason.

I use Hoppes gun oil, or SLIP-2000 EWL... depending on if the gun will be used more regularly. But for lube, I been sticking with light Shooter’s Choice grease on most of my guns... including carry guns. Just find it lasting better than oil, so when I actually fire the gun (usually practice), it is present. The main use for oil on my guns is my AR bolts. Most of the guns that I have to worry about rust I have done in either NP3 Plus or CPII. Still have to care for it, but little more forgiving than bluing. But both of my safes have Golden Rods, desiccants (pull out when not needed), and Safelert to monitor conditions. If something goes out of normal, I can fix it pretty quick. Usually a few degrees warmer inside the safe, and running in the 30% humidity range.

I joined, as well. I’ll start using it more once everything calms down here.