Screwball

Nope... alloy. The only plastic is the actual grip. Think S&W 3rd Generation grip.

Really, the 9xA1s did it in. You have a pistol with two grip options (regular and thin)... whereas going with a traditional frame allows standard grips. Plus, it looked out of place for the 92/96 line. If they managed a polymer frame... it might have had a chance. The 90-Two was a good pistol for Beretta, since the buffer system allowed for .40 to come back after dropping the 96 (came back with the 90-Two, then the 96A1).

I have an old Disney stainless watch... which I picked up in Florida back in 2001. Sat in my safe for most of that time, unless I wanted to wear a watch for something. Just had it cleaned up, and new battery/seals installed... since I’m going on a Disney cruise. I’m not a watch guy. I tend to break stuff, so try not to wear them. I have be using a Fitbit Charge 2... which I made sure I got the extended warranty for when I break it. [emoji6] Use my phone for time/date. I know, sacrilege.

Nope... discontinued around 2012, if I remember correctly.

Here is the original thread I posted about the light... current lights should be squared away in regards to the issue I mentioned/recorded on that video. https://www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/90329-streamlight-tlr-7-awesome-then-crappy-and-back-to-awesome/ Personally, I like the TLR-7. It is a good compact light, and leaps/bounds better than the TLR-3 I used prior. If you do get it, go over to Pistol Forum... as there have been two other keys 3D printed for them (if you have a specific request, you can contact the guy with measurements, and he will develop it if possible). For a full-size pistol, I prefer a larger light. I also prefer the paddle controls. I accept the different controls on the TLR-7 because the light is 500 Lumens, and fits the 30S well (there was talk about different controls being offered, as they are basically a boot held on with screws). Larger lights on full size guns are also easier for holster availability. Makers are starting to support the newer Streamlights, but the TLR-1 is still a standard. I know that the lens being behind the muzzle is what most people look for with shorter lights on full size guns, but I personally don’t worry too much about it. Lights still get dirty. Cleaning isn’t that hard, and people have multiple tips for it. Compact weapon lights usually have a drawback. My TLR-3... it wasn’t that bright, and was a little bulky. The TLR-7 uses different controls... and that is pretty much it. If Streamlight does offer different controls for it... specifically paddles... I’d recommend it across the board. Until then, I still run TLR-1s... with the TLR-7 on my Glock 30S (the TLR-1 does fit on it... but it is a carry gun; size is very IMPORTANT). My TAC-14... TLR-1. My CZ SP-01... TLR-1 (also have holsters made for that combo). My Beretta CX4/PX4, KelTec SUB-2000, Ruger SR1911 (with Recover Tactical grip), S&W M&P Pro (with pressure switch), and .45 D/I AR... all get a TLR-1 if a light is required. Only one that the TLR-7 doesn’t fit is the M&P Compact (it attaches, but trigger guard cants the light).

Look into the Japanese Type 11... they made a hopper system where clipped ammo would be fed into the gun (30 rounds). It was 6.5mm, but unlike the other light machine gun (similar to the Bren gun), there wasn’t a 7.7mm version with a hopper. Magazine was looked to be superior than a hopper. Problem is going to be what happens to the clip? The AR wasn’t designed to feed from a stripper clip, and allow the clip to be ejected through the action. Magazine well and ejection port are at a right angle, and you have a bolt to contend with. For the original design, definitely get a plan together and check to see if it is good to go with NJ law. Personally, isn’t going to be a concern of mine in the near future, but it is nice to push things like that (until lawmakers see it as evil, and it gets banned with legislation).

Post 85 is a shot of it on my Glock 30S. For reference, it would look similar to a Glock 19. What would you like to know about it?

I have a coworker that lives in Point Pleasant (right on the corner of the north side of Route 35)... was a year or two back, but came downstairs to find a random guy sleeping on her couch. Woke him up, and made him get out. A few hours later, she had a knock at the door. The guy came back to apologize. Was drinking the night before, and actually thought he was home, sleeping on his couch. She didn’t lock her door, which is more how she acted prior to this situation occurring (now she locks it every night... at least what she says). He lived just a block or two up. Let’s say you take your thought process and apply it to that situation. You have a long day, and forget to lock the door... or are sick, and a family member is supposed to do it, and doesn’t. Whatever the reason, the stars aligned and the guy staggers into your house. While a drunk walking into your house is not something most people expect, is that an imminent threat? Sorry, but you aren’t going to win that argument, even if you had Johnnie Cochran representing you. Your life (criminal charges), as well as your property (civil liability), are on the line there. Just because there is a shadowy figure in your home, doesn’t mean you are free to mow them down.

Define used... I’ve carried both of those setups numerous times, as well as the Glock with a TLR-3 and my P938 with TLR-6. Personally, hope I never have to use them. But if it comes down to it, they will all do the job. No role playing. To add in, I’m thinking your “purpose built weapons” were along the lines of your AR example (with the $15 light). I could show my 870 Police, with that Insight M3X, but the other two pictures are more on topic for this thread. I really don’t do things to defensive firearms for style points... I tend to save that for other firearms, including surplus. Just got a 6x PU scope for my Mosin... which joins the USMC M1903 sniper reproduction I have. I have a SGS copy compensator for my 92 Brigadier Inox. And of course my soon to be banished 15 round FBI magazine for my S&W 10mm. My carry guns might be plated (NP3 Plus and CPII in those two pictures), but function is important (not rusting due to battery acid sweat). Just remember, day and night are roughly half of each day. Seeing a target at noon is usually easier than midnight. But criminals do like to gain the upper hand, which includes using darkness to their advantage. My only carry gun that doesn’t have a light on it is my LCP... which is size limited. But if they made a light that didn’t make the profile too much larger, I’d have it by now. For practice, I recommend that definitely. It is hard to do live fire light practice... but it is somewhat possible (doesn’t need to be no-light, just shut the target spotlights in your lane off). I also recommend clearing your gun, and seeing what the light does in your house on a normal night. See how much spill you get. See what reflects light back at you. See how far out your gun is sitting to illuminate certain areas. Physically shooting the gun with the light is only part of practice.

My first weapon light was an Insight M3... years back (2009ish). Converted it to LED when they offered it, and I think I also bought a M3X (LED from factory) prior to any other light (exception possibly being Insight’s compact light... like TLR-3 sized; forget the name). Got into TLR-1s, and also picked up an X-300. Sold the Surefire, as I preferred the toggle setup on my Insights and Streamlights. Probably in the ballpark of 12 or so lights... which includes other designs over railed pistol lights (Scout setup on my Tavor, LaserMax on my J-frame, TLR-6 on my P938). New favorite is the TLR-7 on my Glock 30S... even though it has a different switch setup. In regards to need, same can be argued like that red dot thread. I don’t need an Aimpoint, just like I don’t need a TLR-1... but I have both because I don’t plan on either failing anytime soon. $15 lights may very well work... but I really don’t have the need to try them. I have two Surefire handheld lights within 5’ of me right this moment, and I know either will work if I grabbed one right this second. That is what that $100+ bought me. I’ve done the cheap light game years ago, whether one I leave in my trunk for emergencies or one I use at work. $15 to $30 lights don’t hold up for the long term... and I don’t abuse my stuff. I think the cheapest light on any of my firearms is a Surefire 6PX Pro on my main AR (believe it is that... they did something with the model numbers between the time I bought it an now, so forget which one). Not the current 600 Lumen model, but the older 200ish version (with the low 15 Lumen mode). IWC mount puts it right next to the gas block for the AA piston... so it gets a crap ton of carbon on it. Think that is going on 9 years of use. 100%, with the only issue being batteries on their way out only allow the low mode, so if I don’t get high, it is time to change.

If you are looking for something specific, Liberty Tree Collectors. They might not be the cheapest, but I have a few frogs and magazines I couldn’t find elsewhere. eBay is another good spot... again, if you look for something specific (my folding Carcano bayonet, which I got for my Oswald reproduction, was off there).

Only thing I can post up... Ishapore 2A1, and matching bayonet (Ishapore No1 MkIII). I considered getting a wrapped No4, but the kill for me is .303. Personally, I don’t want another rimmed cartridge... 7.62x54mm, I got enough of. Maybe when I move/start reloading, but they really don’t appeal to me for that. I like the 7.62mm version. You get the benefits of the pattern, an extra two rounds in the magazine, and a better cartridge. If I look for another Enfield before .303 is on the table, I’d love to find a .410 Musket. But if I go that route, I’d want it converted to .410 shotshell over the Musket load... for ease of ammo sourcing. Plus, that allows the bayonet to work on either rifle... and be somewhat correct (Muskets were converted No1 MkIII).

Listen to that same guy...

I did get the insurance, but more because if I didn’t, CBP will call and say they want me to be at FLETC the day prior to the cruise. 56 days! [emoji41]

I obviously didn’t... booked a cruise for the first week of November.

They still try to do it... where I shot last week.

Yea, a 5.56mm inside an indoor range isn’t fun. More so inside one of the booths. Was shooting mine last week to try out the new buffer setup, as the stock JP recoil assembly wasn’t locking the bolt back on empty (going from three steel to two steel/one Tungsten weights solved it). I usually use Surefire EarPro at the range. When I shoot an AR, I just toss ear muffs over them. Lessens the concussion, but you still notice a difference over a shotgun or handgun.

I can say almost the same about an optic that has only been out for a month... because in truth, that Primary Arms one only started getting in people’s hands at the end of July. Aimpoints have been going strong for years (even in my inventory for that length of time; think my first PRO was picked up over five years ago). That is worth a “C-Note” to me... if not more. I’ll also add, and if you want to confirm it with the Primary Arms thread in their Industry section on AR15.com, the lower cost also is due to lesser grade aluminum being used (page six, if the posts per page line up with mine). One person asked, was told 6061... and Primary Arms said for $250, you aren’t getting 7075. He also said they sell optics made with 7075... and linked a picture of an ACOG (saying for $900). Kind of shoots down your claim when that comes straight from the people selling them. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Industry/1x-Prism-scope-/325-285110/ Don’t think the cat is out of the bag now, as Holosun has been on scene for over two years. Hey, if you want to invest $240 in an optic... that is all good. Nice part about living in a capitalist country. But same token, you aren’t going to see people using Primary Arms because it is better than Aimpoint at this point in time (again, capitalism). It is being purchased strictly due to price. I predict you likely are going to have another two years or so before QC gets them squared away to a point where that original claim can be considered. Money can be saved in a multitude of ways. Can physically save money for a purchase, as setting it aside until you accumulate enough. You can also do that at a lesser rate, and buy a mid-grade product. And lastly, you can go extremely cheap. As you move down in price, chances for problems increase... not a terrible thing, but something that needs to be accepted. Primary Arms is in that middle grade, and flea market junk is in that lower one. What needs to be figured out is what part of that section it fits in, and further more, does the buyer feel comfortable putting their money towards it. If you are just going to the range, your needs are very different than someone mounting it on a duty rifle. You also don’t normally see the competition world using them, as they go with equipment that lasts. That isn’t a knock at Primary Arms, but it is keeping it in perspective.

In regards to not needing batteries... it is similar to saying you have an illuminated scope, and running it without the illuminated reticule. Yes, you can run it without batteries, but why? Batteries, even if you consider this red dot (CR2032), are usually the cheapest part of the equation. I have been keeping track of mine among all of my optics, lasers, and lights, and try to change them regularly. In regards to spending money on a name, that one you are talking about is $240 on Amazon. That is in the realm of a used Aimpoint CompM3... for maybe $30 more. While you might have an argument about spending $500+ on a name, $30 is not a big deal on something that A LOT of people trust over something that really has only been in people’s hands for a little over a month. https://clydearmory.com/agency-trade-in-aimpoint-compm3-2moa-with-gg-g-mount.html And that is from a regular source. AR15.com’s EE can net you one maybe a little less, if the person is going with something different. All depends on how long someone is willing to wait for a good deal. I will agree, some optic choices are crazy. My Leupold Mk4 scope was $899, on a Black Friday sale. A lot, but I’ve seen similar optics go A LOT higher. I went Leupold due to the early 1990s one that was on my Remington when I bought it... and how clear it was (Mk4 is just as clear). ACOGs definitely are priced up there, but also need to consider the material used to construct it. For price, a lot goes into glass, QC, and even specific design elements for the product. Comes down to is if the buyer is willing to pay for it. Some are ACOG guys, others are Aimpoint Micros. Some are PROs. Some are SIG/Holosun. And some are Primary Arms. The only real problem is when you start going into the no-name airsoft stuff or Chinese copies being passed off as Aimpoint or something else. That being said, Chinese isn’t automatically bad (the Primary Arms one is made in China)... just depends on the QC being implemented. I personally liked it when Holosun, and then SIG, started putting out decent, less costly options. I feel the same with this Primary Arms one (hesitation aside, will mention my opinion at the end). The better the lower end gets, either Aimpoint/Trijicon/Leupold needs to lower their price to compete, or make it better. Long run, better for the consumer. No way would I ever be upset for that. I’ve had my Aimpoints for a few years... one I bought new, one was lightly used, and one unused, but in an open box. I’m not getting rid of any of them for a Primary Arms red dot that just came out (I rather see some track record before I invest over $200 in something). If that red dot works out, still no real reason for me to swap my Aimpoints. Overpriced, well that depends on the buyer. If I grab a PRO for $375, I do not feel that is overpriced. It is a quality optic that will last. Obsolete? How so? Because as a sighting system, an Aimpoint isn’t any less obsolete than any other red dot. Nothing that Primary Arms red dot is doing hasn’t been done before, or is a far enough jump that you’ll find Aimpoints being sold off for $100 because of how useless they are. I’m all for hearing about new stuff, even if from companies that I regularly don’t buy, but let’s not get too ahead of ourselves and act like SOCOM is buying these instead of X. Maybe this red dot turns into something along the lines of sliced bread, and it works out about when I decide to toss a red dot on my SUB-2000 (whenever MCARBO releases their mount), it could be an option. Or SIG (like the warranty, but I am also looking into one of their rangefinders... and my father likes the Romeo that I bought him for Christmas a year or two back). Or even a used Aimpoint Micro. Well, maybe scratch that last one... and likely the Primary Arms. And neither has to do with a price or name reason. I hate Micro sized red dots. For me, looking through such a small tube is a hinderance. That is why my Aimpoints are all off the larger tube line. I’ve shot an AR with a T2, and wasn’t a fan. From the numbers I’m seeing, the Primary Arms FOV is even smaller than a Micro. If I’m going that small, I’ll do something along the lines of an RMR... not strictly for quality, but the actual design difference (non-tube over tube).

Actually, incorrect... Same distance, just less gravitational force acted on the bullet. If you have a cosign indicator on your rifle, there isn’t a positive or negative side... depending on what you get, either an angle or percentage (I prefer percentage, as it is one less step when you are calculating). Example, you are shooting at a 30 degree angle... means your cosign is 0.82. If shooting at 300 yards, you shoot for 246 yards (put that in your scope, opposed to 300) That is either uphill or downhill... no difference.

Federally, the M2 receiver is a machine gun, whether it is setup for full-auto or not. Some were sent out as surplus, converted to semi-auto, then shipped back here and sold commercially as regular carbines. ATF believes once a machine gun, always a machine gun... M1s did have some M2 parts installed. However, the ATF states that a M2 kit is comprised of seven parts. If you don’t have them all, no harm/foul. Have them all, whether installed or not (even without a M1 receiver present), you have a machine gun. https://www.atf.gov/firearms/firearms-guide-identification-firearms-section-1#M-2Carbine NJ law, they really don’t go into detail why. Probably part with the riots, part with being able to convert easily to full-auto (criminal on the Federal level, anyways... but probably “feel good” law), and part being how easy it is to cut them down (another Federal law, which correctly calls it a SBR opposed to NJ... which lists such weapons as SBS [emoji849]). In short, they are illegal in NJ, unless you had it registered as an assault weapon in the early 1990s. Cannot be transferred, even with inheritance, to anyone in NJ. If there is a new M1 Carbine put out, without that stamped on the receiver, I’d wait for a letter like the M1A/Colt Match Target or Shockwave/TAC-14/BAT DT from the NJSP/AG before taking that chance.

You might see some more variation in slide offerings over the next year or two... if they win the CBP trials. I want them to win as I think it is the best pistol currently out there (saying that with the contempt I have for SIG with the “upgrade”), but it is one of the larger L/E pistol trials to ask for optics ready sidearms (think specifically asked for Leupold and Trijicon). The SIG P320 likely has the momentum to get optics on handguns a standard out of all the other platforms, due to their popularity. I bought my father a SIG red dot (whatever one mimics the CompM4), so have no background in them other than that. They did buy into Holosun for them, produce them here, and up charge/give their warranty... but I do agree, if I’m buying something, going Trijicon RMR. And I’ve heard a few people say they have run their SIG optics hard without issue, but rather pay for the proven standard. For model, I’ve heard a lot of praise for the Carry. If I was jumping in (still in NJ), I’d likely go with that or the Compact. If you rather the opposite grip after shooting it, change out the frame and have the other model. Minimal costs over switching to a different slide length.

Just get the setup most useful to you, in the caliber you want... if needs change, get the grip/slide combo at that time. I really didn’t look too far into the one that is optics ready, but I think that will be the choice for my next gun that’s available with it. That has a lot of momentum behind it, and I think it will force red dots to come down it price.

Nope... other side is flat, as well. If you browse Amazon, some listings have both images. The outside of the holster is sort of sticky, which is supposed to both keep it from moving in the pocket and keep it in the pocket during the draw. Like other pocket holsters with the hook to catch the edge of the pocket, the end with the magazine works similarly. Retention of the holster is enough to keep the gun from falling out (think more due to length of the gun inside), but it isn’t to the point where it is stuck on the gun when you draw. Only carried it a few times (if I’m putting a gun into a cargo pocket, usually bigger than the LCP), but between that and practicing, never had any issues like you ask about. If you do try it out and have the holster pull out with an empty gun/magazine... try to find some weighted dummy rounds to make it more realistic (spare magazine should help anchor the holster in the pocket).

I saw it... but still have to get a pistol permit. Might only be a few dollars... but rather not give money to NJ. No issue giving you money for it. [emoji6] I was going to get a blank permit to frame with my FID to hang in my office (right next to the Lakewood police report where a resident stated he was day-dreaming when he hit me, and no tickets written). But might just try to keep money away from this government.