Screwball

Take a look on eBay... I’ve found quite a few parts for surplus parts on there. Good thing is there is a bayonet. Those are an odd size.

I’m still liking the TAC-14, but will add that Remington finish is BS, as well. I’m not sticking with it. I have a vent rib barrel, but had to go back to S/I to have the extractor cut modified. Guess they use Chinese barrels, and the extractor met the lower edge of the cut. Once that is done, might send the original barrel to have the chamber polished (see if I want a two barrel gun), and considering options on the sights for the vent rib. Either considering a night sight bead, or a mid bead with a larger white bead. Once all that is finished, going for NP3 Plus (unsure if I’ll do the both, or sell off the OEM one). Going to update in that other Shockwave thread... whenever I move forward.

Whether it is or it isn’t... are all your shots guaranteed to be within seven yards? The longest shot in my house is down the hallway; ranch with bedrooms on one side of the house, kitchen/laundry room/den on the opposite side, with a living room in between. A common shot with someone coming into the line of sight at the end of the hallway would be at least double your range. If someone decided to walk in and hug the wall that the wood burning stove was on (not common, as the kitchen setup would make it not as likely... but could happen), it would be close to triple your distance. Would be a little longer than triple the range if I decided to sit in the bathtub of the bathroom at the end of the hall. Likewise, if someone came through the living room, it would be anywhere between seven and ten yards (there is a couch on the wall nearest the bedrooms, which would likely push someone at least that far out). The only way someone could get into my line of sight within seven yards would be climbing on the couch and jumping out into the hallway. While people can choose whatever they want, and should do their own testing, I’ve done mine. My PDX1 keeps the three 00 inside a torso within all ranges I need it to. And a slug isn’t just going to piss someone off, if it gets further out. Dick Cheney’s hunting buddy is a prime example of that... I’ve yet to see compelling data that birdshot is anything other than a load for birds (live and clays). If it is the same as 00 within seven yards, no reason not to go 00, in case your engagement distance extends further. If you live in a place that you have to worry about over penetration, I’d really rethink the shotgun as your go-to firearm (maybe a pistol with frangible ammo). In that case, if I had to shoot someone, I’d rather have something that can do the job the entire distance than something that could just piss them off at a likely common distance in my home (we have an alarm/dogs for a reason, and that spot in the hallway is my position to keep an intruder away from myself/my fiancé).

I have a Spikes .22 upper, and used the chamber adapter from their’s on a CMMG kit. Very happy with the outcome, as it has a Lothar Walther barrel that can shoot the nuts off a fly. However, they were pricey when they offered them. In regards to a conversion, you have a 5.56mm AR already? If so, and just for limited use, I’d just get a CMMG conversion kit that utilizes your upper. Two heads up... don’t shoot a ton of .22, then go over and shoot 5.56mm right after. Lead build up will need to be cleaned, but no idea on if the lead moves up into the gas block/tube. Never had to deal with it, so never looked into it (would think just the barrel, but something to look into). Second, if you have a forward assist, opt for the kit that has the bolt insert to work with it. The forward assist on a 5.56mm isn’t something I put down as hugely needed (all my ARs have them, but because they came configured as such), but on a dirty .22, it is such a nice thing to have. I’d also say get the CMMG anti-jam charging handle. My Spikes came with a standard charging handle... you will love not having to get a case out from between the charging handle/bolt.

Colt originally patented the clockwise rotation, which is why people felt it was a better design. If you rotate clockwise, the force on the cylinder in a normal opening design (swings out to the left), pushes the cylinder into the frame. If you stopped movement of the cylinder, it would cause the crane to push against the frame. Likewise, a counterclockwise rotation... if you stopped the cylinder from spinning, it would open the cylinder by forcing the crane to the left. S&W’s answer to that was having the ejector rod lock up at the barrel end. From a design standpoint, clockwise rotation is better... but with modern designs that have been working for YEARS, both work. If you want to look into it, C&Rsenal on YouTube is doing videos on WWI small arms. They did an episode on a Spanish K-frame copy, which I believe went into that... if not that, one of the Colt episodes that followed it.

My lightest AR happens to be my .45 D/I... Macon Armory upper, built off a Spikes lower. Runs a CompM4s. Started building it as a rifle for my ex, being she had medical issues resulting from a stroke (loss of dexterity on left side). Only difference now is I yanked off the BAD lever (was having intermittent failure to lock back when empty). Didn’t weigh with the light (USC magazine was included; no sling), but was just shy under 7 pounds. Is it the same weight as my SUB-2000? No, but that is light enough for me.

Gas piston works, but I’d be more strict for it if you had a specific reason for it to be beneficial... like running a suppressor on the gun. My first 5.56mm upper was a Adams Arms kit, which was assembled by Spikes. If you need to go piston, the AA kit is probably the way to go. When larger name companies were putting out piston systems, a handful went with AA. My first D/I was actually a .45 ACP. But for my more accurate 18” AR, I went D/I. You aren’t going to notice a difference in accuracy with either, judging you get a good barrel. Cleaning... while that was my original reason for going piston, you aren’t considering the piston at the gas block. That is definitely something to worry about cleaning. Really, to go out of your way to not go D/I, I’m not really seeing a good reason with what was said thus far. And this is someone that went piston from Jump Street, and still has it on his main AR. I just don’t feel like changing anything out on it, when it works fine.

Yep... I should just write it out. Abbreviations default to MA on my iPhone, since she is from there. Guess you write it in text enough, it starts to remember it. I specifically opted for NM and West Texas over South Texas. Other option was CA... which no way would I go there. Going into L/E, figured there is always going to be some risk. Thanks. [emoji106]

Have two positions that really comes down to my decision... CBP in Houlton, MA or BPA in NW/West TX. MA is nice, but a little too cold for my liking. I originally liked it because of the area... but might as well try for Alaska, in regards to being out in the sticks. Some of the postings were in “towns” with less than 200 people. After this past storm, I’m done with the snow like this. Going north would be an adjustment, and I know I could do it, but boring and snow that I rather not deal with. Border Patrol is a little more dangerous, but also gives my fiancé plenty of job opportunity... considering she works with horses. With all the push with Trump and that border, I think there will be more opportunity than over the past years. Plus, BP does do a lot with horses, so might be able to find a civilian position that she would like. Pay-wise, I’ll be making a little more going south... with A LOT more room to advance. Had two cousins that went BP... one didn’t like it, became a teacher; other is currently in DEA (worked in San Juan, and currently in Philadelphia). Personally feel it is a better fit for me, considering the Agents I’ve met/talked to (a couple on Pistol-Forum). Cost of living is roughly the same for each. 2nd Amendment is still alive in all three states, so I’m fine with them (that TAC-14 I got may get a tax stamp for adding a stock, along with a SBR/suppressor for a CZ Scorpion). CBP, which BP is part of, needs people up in MA. BP needs A LOT of people on the Southern border. Qualified for both, get the higher grade due to education/GPA, so there isn’t much difference between the two applications... plus, things like medical and polygraph are lumped together for both.

I signed up when they first introduced it... bought a few things from there, but not something I use a lot. I will check on there if there is something specific I’m looking for, but if I’m buying a few things, rather just buy at one place instead of getting the savings. Usually, I’ll save more off DVOR than on it... if you consider larger purchases.

You can make your point all you want, but if it was important enough for you to bring up... I can at least answer it. Don’t like my answer/view, I’m sorry for that. But really, I’ll continue to call it high capacity... as it is correct for the laws being discussed. Reread that sentence you quoted... I compared the “high capacity” argument to the clip/magazine one... then stated there isn’t a correct answer for “this one.” “This one,” which doesn’t have a correct answer, is the “high capacity” argument. You might noticed I continued to talk about that one, and not clip/magazine, after that statement... right? I didn’t ask for it because you misread it. And being I have a very large background in surplus rifles, I am very aware of that. But thanks for the refresher.... [emoji106]

Didn’t take it any specific way... but it reads very clear. I’ve heard people say that same thing countless times. But when it comes down to it, there are high capacity magazines. They are magazines over a specific limit within a jurisdiction... NJ being over 15, CA being over 10, etc. A 17 rounder, as we were talking about, is high capacity for NJ, as the legal limit is 15 for semi-auto firearms. If you have the same magazine in PA, which does not have a magazine limit, it is not high capacity. When I leave NJ and move to NM/TX, there isn’t a high capacity magazine, due to their legislation not having a limit on magazine capacity. The argument about “standard” or “normal” capacity magazines is just something that goes along the lines of “clip” verses “magazine”... just there really isn’t a “correct” answer with this one. It is only brought up between people on the same side, which if anything, turns people away from fighting/standing with you for the 2nd Amendment. As I said... someone who wants to take your guns away isn’t going to give a damn what you call a specific magazine. That just isn’t an argument that will sway their views. It will just go to, “if that is standard capacity, we should just get rid of all guns that use magazines!” Stating that, you are definitely entitled to your opinion. However, with Murphy about to be sworn in... I think the fight should be focused elsewhere.

Removable chokes are nice, but far from something that is the deciding factor for if a shotgun is useful. Remington Police shotguns don’t have threaded tubes. Doc Holiday’s shotgun didn’t have removable tubes. Mireles’ shotgun in the 1986 FBI Miami shootout didn’t have removable chokes. My main home defense shotgun is a 20” 870 Police... improved cylinder fixed choke. I know what PDX1 does out of it, so it is extremely useful if I need to use it in a defensive situation, that I hope never occurs. Being able to change chokes is more of a sporting thing over anything related to defense. And even in something like trap, once you have the shotgun setup, you really don’t change them out between squads. I’ve seen people use it as an excuse, but more likely doesn’t have any effect because the person couldn’t lead the target well enough. The tubes really come into play when you are taking the shotgun outside of it’s effective range. You also need to be mindful of if the pattern will have the energy to do the job at that range (my father got hit with a 00 pellet at about 125 yards from an idiot that hunted with his group for about two days... bounced off his Carhartts). I was thinking about having the barrel threaded on my TAC-14... but considering it is a firearm that should be used within 20 yards, changing out chokes wouldn’t be as much of a help that it would be worth it. Getting a new barrel for it (vent-rib), and not going to worry about chokes. Cylinder bore is fine for the intended role... which is why it is so common on defensive shotguns.

No... because per NJ law, which was being discussed, the 17 rounder is high capacity. It is actually “large capacity ammunition magazine,” but I’m not writing that out each and every time. If you really think that calling it something different will change their views, I’m sorry... but it isn’t going to matter much when the 5 round limit comes rolling up. The only way they won’t vote on that is if less than five comes up. I understand your point, but not making that much of a difference to scold people on the same side about it.

Non-threaded comes with 10 rounder. Threaded comes with 17 rounder. Either have the high capacity one pinned or swapped out. The magazine is a Ruger SR9 magazine... not like it comes with Glock magazines. It just comes with a magazine adapter for Glock magazines.

HGW posted one with a threaded barrel on Facebook... and quickly sold it. So, I’ll take that as either model is good to go, judging the magazines are compliant (the one with the threaded barrel is 17 rounds).

From what I’ve heard, Home Depot/Lowe’s units have a lower QC than ones going to supply houses. Really depends on how long you intend to stay.

We stopped dealing with AO Smith due to their warranty process... While the likelihood of having a problem is low, rather have an easier way of getting it fixed than jumping through hoops while the heater is down.

Wonder how different the design is from the P320... obviously isn’t modular, but if the striker system is similar.

What doesn’t cause cancer? What doesn’t have a chance of lead exposure? Even with that 2014 restriction on lead content in fittings... what about all the fittings installed in 2013 and earlier? I’m personally waiting for electronic cigarettes to be linked to cancer, so the guys at work that stuck with cigarettes can feel vindicated. I personally only drink tap water at my parents, due to their conditioning system (the guy that installed the system puts it over bottled water). We drink bottle water... which will probably cause cancer just the same as PEX (especially if left in sunlight, very similar to warnings for PEX; don’t leave bottles sitting in the car). We don’t drink our water because it is well water with just a basic filter on it... because I was tired of dealing with the iron buildup at the washer. Had it tested, says it is fine. With all the issues with water in central NJ, I wouldn’t drink tap water (well or city) in large volume unless I trust the filtration/conditioning. PEX verses copper isn’t a huge worry to me over those other things. [emoji6]

For the first paragraph, what are you planning on doing? You say to put hot water in a bucket... you’d have to let it drain back down the line. How are you doing it without getting water everywhere? If you really wanted to, you could run a nearby sink on hot (get it to temperature), kill the valve, rig up a supply line to go from the hot shutoff to the toilet shutoff (we have drain guys that do similar setups to flush kitchen sink drains after snaking, to make sure they got the clog), and send water backwards. But that is a little too much work for the current situation. And depending on how much of the pipe is frozen, you might have more of a mess taking it apart (if you shut both valves, the supply lines you rigged up are under pressure, and going to shoot water all over when undone; could be solved by a tee and a boiler drain). If you don’t get it defrosted with the first, you’d want to vacuum the water out of the toilet shutoff, and try again. At that point, I rather have someone thaw it with a machine... unless can’t due to non-conductive pipe.

We have a secretary that is a little slow... I had to call up a half dozen people in mobile home parks that were waiting on us to come to thaw lines that technicians knew couldn’t be done when given the job (we can use a heat gun, but how much do people want us to charge to sit there and do it; reminds me of Irene/Sandy... pumping out basements). This was right before she gets a call for black sludge coming up in a toilet, and asked the homeowner to flush to see if it is a drain or plumbing issue. Our problem isn’t places that never freeze, but how bad ones that commonly do. Had to run another thawing machine out to Eatontown yesterday so the technician could run them inline. In about ten years of being here, I’ve known we could... but never actually saw it done. Have guys doing 16-18 hour days, and still can’t get it all done. We redid the entire house in PEX, which I’m even happier about considering we are leaving (makes reconfiguring the kitchen a lot easier, since I didn’t want to redo a lot from what I’ve already done)... but had the heat redone last year. Did the foam insulation in the attic and sealed the crawl up. With all the cold last night, just got down to 38 in the crawlspace. Even if I didn’t insulate the pipes, I’d feel comfortable with it.

I’m pretty sure what you are going to say... and if it isn’t copper, not going to work. Our company has a stamp that we hand out to technicians, which states we aren’t responsible for any pipe bursts due to that way of thawing. If it was his whole house, and was still going to be cold for a few days... I might suggest it, but not now. All he needs is a pipe to burst in the wall/ceiling. For as much as it stinks, I’d just toss a space heater in there and wait until the temperature goes up tomorrow. For lines to freeze, it has to be well below freezing for a few days. If it never happened before, I’d say make sure the heating isn’t the cause. If it happens consistently, and it isn’t a heavily used toilet, I’d put an access panel where the line comes off for that toilet, toss a valve with a bleeder in, and just shut that down/drain if it is going to be a cold spell.

Probably... just started? For poops/giggles, you check the valve behind it?

I know for a fact CCR won’t plate alloy frames. They don’t strip anodizing, which should be done to plate. Don’t know anyone within NJ. I use CCR or Robar... but prefer CCR due to cost. Robar does my long guns and alloy frames.