Screwball

Had one on my 500 that I sold... light being on the gun is a positive that I wouldn’t want to lose. But if I didn’t need a light, the Hogue forend and Tamer grip are very comfortable. Reason why I put them on mine.

Nope, I’m good. [emoji41] Box magazines and shotgun shells aren’t optimal. A cylinder has vertical strength. So stacking shells in a traditional tube, less of a chance of them deforming. Horizontal pressure, you start egging the shell out. Simple way to prove it... take two toilet paper or paper towel tubes (after done with roll). With one, squeeze around the circular portion. With the other, put one end on the table, and push down from the other end with your hand... one will take noticeably less effort to crush. I personally think that is a waste for Remington. As I mentioned in the other thread, after I take out the dimples and install the extension... my TAC-14 will be 5+1. Big difference is the lack of that huge scrotum hanging below the ejection port for that extra round. [emoji6] Plus, how much are these magazines going to cost? When you are losing a ton of money, don’t try to reinvent the wheel... put that money into QC.

I know they (company doing it for the Mossberg... forget their name, as well) tried, but did say they stopped research into it. Hope they are doing one, being it is options for shooters. That is how I run a light on my 870 Police. Never had an issue. With the handstops (on the TAC-14), hand is forced to be in the right position and moves with recoil. I was considering using the smaller sections from the handstops (needed two kits to get what I have) on my shotgun... but it isn’t an MLOK version of the forend. I wasn’t a fan of the Magpul forend on the TAC-14, and was going to get wood for it (grip and forend). But can’t beat the flexibility of mounting stuff to the gun, without something like the Streamlight (if I remember correctly) rail adapter that fits between the barrel nut and barrel.

I already have a few boxes of that (have a few Remington Reduced Recoil 00), but also have a couple boxes of Remington Managed Recoil Sluggers. If you look at the second picture (last set I posted of the TAC-14), you’ll see a rail on the forend. That’s for the light. I have a couple TLR-1s... just not mounting it until I’m done with the work. Hard to store in the safe with the light on. What’s the name of the company doing it for the Remington? I’m not that interested in Mini-Shells... but would pick some up for poops and giggles with the adapter (if it ever is released). I think the KSG can use them, and likely the Ithaca... but I’d be more interested with them in the TAC-14.

Ray Ray... you are a bad influence. [emoji107] $50 to Wilson Combat for a +1 extension (they had it listed as out of stock, but shipped today; don’t like the large sling loops, so the swivel stud on the end of the extension). $45 to Brownell’s for the tube swage and a 1” scope ring (to fit around the dimples so it doesn’t deform the tube). I guess the bright side is that the TacStar sidesaddle will have a complete reload now, instead of a reload and an extra round (was debating on tossing a slug in the mix).

This should give you a starting position... put the front BUIS (if not an A2 post) as far forward as possible. For the rear, as far back as possible. That gives you the greatest sight radius possible. Now, if the BUIS interferes when folded (charging handle, mainly), you may have to move it slightly forward. I started my Aimpoint PRO right above the magazine well. Got an offset spacer (using all Aimpoint mounts), which put it over the Delta ring. Reason... room for a magnifier. Balance isn’t too different, nor is view... so was an ok change. With the BUIS folded (MBUS Pro), no issue with the exception of flipping the rear up with magnifier in line (LaRue mount, so flips to side of comes off completely; no zero to worry about, so no big deal pulling it off... as it always lines back up correctly). Set the gun up, then toy with it before shooting. See if there are any issues with using both the red dot and the BUIS. Make adjustments before you start zeroing it (might have to make adjustments after running it).

Yep, that 10% of the population is a huge concern for me... oh wait, I’m righty. [emoji6]Honestly, never had an issue running an 870 with my weak hand... anymore than running any other firearm with my weak hand. With the grip on these (Shockwave, TAC 14), don’t think I’d want the Mossberg safety. Ejector? How many actually have broken one? And if it does, Remington can fix it (and will). I do love the military contract winner point... being it was the only entry. Remington wasn’t interested, as they knew Mossberg was going to underbid them. The 870 has plenty of military service even without being in that contract (prior to the trials, and afterwards), and are used in many Federal agencies (CBP, which is the largest Federal L/E agency; USCG; FBI; I believe still in use with the Navy and Air Force). For the Remington company comment, they aren’t the company they were years back, but if you look over the gun, you shouldn’t have an issue. In the event that you do, send it back just like any other major manufacturer Maybe I don’t see it, but if you are arguing quality is so much better with Mossberg than Remington... I guess the bead threads consistently protruding into the barrel is their mark. Never saw a crappy 870 barrel to that point. Come on Ray Ray... you are slipping. Completely missed the dual extractors point. [emoji107] Note to anyone reading, above is all in good fun. [emoji6] Got to joke about these type of threads, since it is a Chevy/Ford, paper/plastic, etc.

Roger that... continue with your Mossberg circle jerk. [emoji6] I had a JIC2 500, which I sold unfired. Not a fan of the controls compared to the 870. The only difference between the 500 and the 590 was Mossberg going to a barrel/tube design closer towards the 870. Yep... superior design. [emoji106]

How does the extension stay tighten down? The original uses the retainer for the magazine, but older designs use the detent that isn’t present in the barrel. I saw some write ups on adding the detent... doesn’t look fun. You have any recommendations of a gunsmith that does the dimple remove without it screwing up the tube? For the tube/barrel length, doesn’t look bad on my Ithaca... Was that directed to me? Because it is a 12 Gauge...

Got pretty much done with it... shy of two things. Not really visible is the stainless follower and Volquartsen extractor. Got two of the Magpul hand stop kits to create that one, put a rail on the forend (for a TLR-1; fits great with the hand inside the stops), and a TacStar sidesaddle (I like them a little better than the other options out there). The next thing I’m doing is probably sending the barrel out to Rose Action Sports, and have it threaded for Remington chokes. Might have him polish the chamber, as well. Second thing will be plating the entire gun. Have a request to CCR to see if they can do it, but Robar will be the second option (they are expensive). Was thinking about having the dimples removed and adding a +1 extension... but to be honest, I rather keep the standard setup.

S&W 642-1, converted to 9mm. CT laser grips, LaserMax weapon light, and Apex Duty/Carry kit. Ruger New Vaquero Convertible, in .45. Had it bead blasted, since polished sucks. S&W 629-1 (.44 Magnum).

Brigadier slide is thicker...

I’m actually tossed up between two classes when I go for a new vehicle... but little different needs. My first choice is actually similar to the OP; diesel 2500 Silverado or Sierra. I would consider a 3500, but still single wheel. Second choice is a diesel Colorado or Canyon. Both trucks would be crew cabs, with as long of a bed without turning it into a pain to drive (not a super short bed that I’ve seen on some Silverados). For me, I don’t have a use for towing. Only application I could see is the move South, but I’m actually considering getting the truck after the move. I am also considering if my girlfriend continues to work with horses, she would have an option for towing a trailer (not getting a long bed, so no fifth wheel; dogs take precedent, so crew cab is more important). But mileage is also a consideration. I’m likely going to be commuting, as I’ll be working on the border... but rather not live that close. That is kind of where the Colorado/Canyon fits in, being they do get pretty good mileage... with decent power. I stick with GM mainly for one reason... my father worked there for 30 years. Employee discount really is worth it, especially when you get something fully loaded. Fords work, but with all the ones I see, older pickup have a lot of rust issues. Being I keep vehicles upwards of 10 years, I don’t like seeing work trucks having a bed rust apart, and friends say that they have a similar rust issue in their personally owned Ford pickups.

I’d go with TheYankeeMarshal.

Didn’t think it was as cool to handle as it was when I picked it up. Got to start setting it up, but what I really want to see is if CCR can plate it. Hopefully it is small enough.

Which state? Florida requires it be done at a L/E agency. If you reside in their municipality, it should be done at no charge by showing proof you live there. You could try calling a local NJSP barracks and see if they will do it.

https://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/receiver-action-parts/gas-system-components/o-rings/barrel-seal-20-gauge-sku767144370-324-27146.aspx It is listed as the same as the 1100...

There were some military Garands converted to .308... but when I was considering a Garand, I opted for .30-06. What it used for majority of its service life. I’m also one that prefers not going with an adjustable gas block, so I just shoot M2 ball or it’s equivalent out of my Garand. I got a NM M1A for my .308 itch. Prefer keeping .308 in magazines and .30-06 in enblocs. My Garand was a Century build, with a Lithgow receiver, Danish VAR barrel (like new), and SA/PB parts. Sent to Shuff’s and had him refinish and add new wood (also check the receiver, which is good to go). The Specials CMP does are very similar, and they will look similar... but you also don’t tend to see big issues with Service Grade rifles. Is it going to look brand new? Likely not, but likely has a lot of life left over (used to be better chances when they had a large amount of rifles). Sight unseen, I’d prefer to get a Special, as it was redone with a new barrel... you know what is coming. But prefer to look over a Garand before buying... like I did with mine. It was priced right for the parts, so walked away happy.

This is the one point where legislation will be an issue with me... I have a Marlin 60, which my father bought me for Christmas back when I was 8. It is legal, and one of those guns I will not get rid of. I also will not be crimping the tube or anything else. As said, this was a present from my father, so it will be passed to my children when they get to the age that they start shooting. If legislation passes while I’m still here, I’ll box all magazines and guns included, and lock them up in a cheap safe at my godmother’s house in PA. Very easy thing to do... and when I make my final move, I’ll grab them as I leave. If legislation passes while I’m at FLETC or before I get settled to move everything down, technically I have contraband in my home. I’m not going to be able to come back to NJ for a few months, so that kind of makes it hard for me to follow laws that I completely oppose. My solution will be lock everything questionable up in the one safe I only have access to, take both keys with me, and when I come back, make the move as quickly/easily as possible. I just don’t like the fact that one day, my property is legal, and the next, I’m a “criminal” due to some a**hole’s agenda. I’d have to see how it goes, but at least I’d be exiting the state as Federal L/E.

Yes... typo. And no... why do I want a Faux suppressor? I wish I could have done something with the one on my GSG-5 to make it look halfway decent. For me, something that doesn’t really work is pointless. It is why I don’t have pinned stocks... as I rather something that wasn’t modified to be legal. The people that put the fake selector levers on M1As is another one that is just bothersome to me.

Hell no... Unless I look up 522r, and thread the barrel for a suppressor when I leave. Barrel shroud... that is so early 1990s.

My Glock 30S... Like it for being a 19 in .45. Plated by CCR, nothing major... extended slide release, Pearce parts for the 10 rounders, and pretty much keeps my TLR-3 on there. And the Striker Control Device (Gadget), which I had matched to the gun. Wouldn’t attempt AIWB without that.

Think the stock and receiver are new... everything else is refinished USGI (unless SAI got foreign surplus, which is possible; Century got PB parts). Sorry, but how is looking for a date/manufacturer on the barrel complicated? Most parts have lot numbers on them, but the main parts usually have marks from manufacturers (SA, HRA, PB, etc). Also, barrel wear is another thing to consider. If it was a surplus barrel, it might have a little more to a lot more wear than my VAR barrel. It will still shoot well, but lower numbers equate to a less shot barrel. If someone is really looking for a shooter, can be a big disparity in price right there. From what I see, I’d put the rifle anywhere from $550 to $750 (because I don’t know; good barrel, higher end... less good barrel, lower end). Ammo... I’m very bad with what surplus ammo goes for. My 1,000 rounds of LC and Iranian works out to about $0.68 per round... back before ammo went crazy. If I use that price, about $475 for ammo (I don’t think bandoliers matter that much, unless you have sealed cans with them). I definitely will say get someone with better knowledge of surplus ammo values. But you are likely going to either have it sit for a while and maybe get someone with money to spend, or you are going to have a guy that knows Garands pick at your price for the things mentioned. Firearm sales are pretty stagnant right now. Also, that estimate I gave was a tad higher than my Century gun with an awesome barrel (wood was crap, and the Lithgow receiver is a turn off). Personally, I’d probably go lower end due to the stock with the engraving. Do you have the box that goes with it (believe they were wood)? Might get a few dollars more for that, if included (kind of like Mosin crates). My rebuilt Century rifle is likely a better rifle, and if you’ve shot yours, in better condition. No pissing match, but had it rebuilt and restocked... with a pretty much new Danish barrel. Even if you don’t want the forged/cast debate, it does have an effect on value. Even though Shuff looked at mine, nobody is going to pay $800 to $1,000 for my rifle... unless I toss in my 1,000 rounds. If they did, they didn’t do any research and are buying it because they want a Garand. SAI guns are in a similar boat, because people see SA in SAI, and think it is the same Springfield Armory. That goes into my estimate.

Agreed... when I bought my Century build (Lithgow receiver, VAR barrel, Springfield/PB parts), I paid what I thought the parts would be. Got lucky on the receiver, which Shuff gave it a good to go. Barrel is pretty much brand new. New wood, rebuilt... more/less, a new rifle. Need more info.