Scorpio64

Not that you need this, but this is what a real overseeder looks like.

No, you silly wabbit. Aerate if needed, slice, seed and slice some more. Water. You will get some grass to come up this fall, but in the spring time it will explode. I always give my customers a money back guarantee. Not one has taken me up on that. Ever.

Take my advice, don't take my advice. It's your time, money and sweat. I've been restoring and establishing new lawns for over 20 years.

Most Home Depot and Lowe's rental centers have slicers and core aerators.

In that case, you need to core aerate and slice. If you put the seed on top of the soil, the first heavy rainfall will just wash it away. You will have fantastically thick grass at the silt barrier though. If you aerate only, some seed may fall into the holes but you won't get nearly the percentage of germination you would using both machines.

If you mean a spike aerator, they are virtually worthless. A core aerator is marginally more effective when seeding but keep in mind, aeration of any kind is not intended for the benefit of seeding. Core aeration is to "loosen" compacted soil. As the holes cave in on themselves, the surrounding soil becomes less compacted. You only need to do this on high foot traffic areas, like on a golf course or soccer field. The only other time we haul out the core aerator is new construction where the soil has been compacted by heavy equipment. A slicer is like a dethatcher, except the blades are fixed and slice grooves into the soil.We use them a lot when seeding. You go over the area to be seeded twice. Once at a right angle to either the street or side yard, then again at an oblique angle, usually corner to corner. Spread the seed with a spreader, and then go over it again with the slicer just for good measure. An overseeder is sorta like a slicer except it weighs about a thousand pounds (over exaggerating) It is the cadillac of seeding methods. It slices the ground and behind the slicing blades are concave harrows that the seed is dropped into and literally planted into the groves. Pros who do a lot of seeding use overseeders because you only use about a 1/3rd of the seed, and good seed is like, really expensive dude. If I was you, I'd rent a slicer for the day. You will get much MUCH better results. Remember, DO NOT LET THE WEE SEEDLINGS DRY OUT. Keep the area wet at all times. If you don't have in-ground irrigation, you can buy a programmable timer or two at HD or lowes and have it go on for 5 or 10 minutes every half hour.

This is the week to do it. But honestly, we seed right up until October. Ya gotta put it down now but all the real magic happens in Spring. Unless you use a slicer or an overseeder, you are basically just feeding birds.

If there are any proof marks, please post pix of them.

Nein comrade. A bare muzzle will allow more gasses to escape in a fatter 360 degree pattern, (basically a wider muzzle blast) because the hot gasses are still expanding, while a linear comp is concave or recessed with a wall and ported to direct more gas upwards and forward thus causing a bias which will push the barrel down and direct more of the muzzle blast in one direction, down range. Kinda like a nozzle. A compensators main purpose in life is to mitigate muzzle rise. A linear comp does that but is also engineered to focus the rest of the blast in a linear geometry. A little known fact is that the original three pronged A1 muzzle device and the A2 birdcage are primarily designed to be compensators and were identified as such in the original mil-spec. They were not called flash hiders. Everyone calls 'em flash hiders because it sounds like something stealthy that dems feel the need to ban. The flash hider aspect of the device was a secondary, but important design feature. The bottom of an A2 birdcage is not slotted, this forces more gasses upwards and also reduces dust signature. While the sides and top of the A2 are open, the gasses are not compressed when exiting. Compare that to BCM's Mod-0 A2 style comp/brake which has an exit aperture just slightly larger than 5.56 mm that forces all the gasses out the sides. In my opinion, the A2 Birdcage is the nearly ideal muzzle device. It was very thoroughly thought out. Mitigates muzzle rise, reduces dust signature when shooting prone and distributes non compressed gasses (the fat fireball) to lower flash signature. Another example of compensation can be found in magnum handguns that are ported. You will see that the vents are only on top to control muzzle flip. Unfortunately, with a 357 or 44 magnum, you will still get a hella lot a fireball. But at least you can still stay on target.

That is not strictly true. In spite of my disdain for brakes, they do have a legit purpose in competition. Even the muzzle device manufacturers are recognizing the annoyances they cause and are now offering add-ons to direct blast downrange like a linear comp.

nope. the only thing that is illegal is a flash hider. A2 style, three or four prong style are the most common flash hiders but if a product indicates flash hider properties, it's probably illegal.

In NJ it is virtually mandatory to attach the loudest most obnoxious brake you can find. Bonus points if it can knock objects off the tables to your left and right at the range. You will make many friends that way. If you want to be a total wuss you can get a linear compensator that directs muzzle blast downrange. The most pathetic of all is a $2 thread protector. If the 3# of recoil energy is just too much for you, then yes, you definitely need a muzzle brake. Just to be clear. The purpose of a brake is to mitigate recoil. A compensator is to mitigate muzzle rise. Most muzzle devices are a hybrid of the two features.

I went to youtube and just looked at a bunch of videos for front loaders. My search for schematics was polluted with a bunch of BS from some BS phishing site so I kinda struck out there but did see a few legit diagrams that indicated fuses.

Just did some cursory research, could not find a Duet diagram but did find that every machine has a fuse "module". Try calling Sears parts department (not the 800 #) at your local Sears. They are pretty good at having replacement parts for appliances. Just ask if they have the fuse module, of course once you find the model #, and see what they say.. The videos I watched showed the fuse module located at the top of the machine. If it's the fuse, it should be pretty easy to replace. There are 4 or 5 screws that hold the top cover on. If you can get to them and remove them, you may find a wiring diagram under the cover.

I'd be very surprised if there was no fuse. In my experience, just about every electronic device with a printed circuit board has one. It may be soldered directly to the PCB, and not considered a "user serviceable component" and therefore not listed in the manual. The model # can probably be found on the back of the machine too. What brand is it?

It probably has an internal fuse or breaker. You can find the wiring diagram online to find where it is. We just bought new washer and dryer a couple months ago, I hate the washer, I think it has become sentient and planning to take over the house. It sounds positively evil.

Both are fine in NJ. No worries.

Going today at noon to sight in two rifles and get some trigger time with the SPR.

He definitely had The Right Stuff. Great actor

Yanno, something else to consider. You don't need a 12Ga to have a decent HD gun. 20Ga will get the job done too. May be more manageable for the wifey too.

Shotgun with 18'bbl, not a good range toy unless you are a masochist. 5 rounds of 00 buck and I'm done. Great for HD though. Unless you have a physical limitation, stick with the tried and true pump action. Lots of options for ammo, reduced recoil, short shells, less than lethal, etc.. AR-15 , with the right ammo, it can be a good HD gun. Though many indoor ranges are allowing AR's, you have to buy their ridiculously expensive frangible ammo. Pistol caliber carbine, in my opinion, the most versatile for HD and range toy. Ammo is cheaper, you can shoot it at almost any indoor range, will still be fun at the outdoor range, manageable recoil, less flash since pistol powder is designed to burn up fast in handgun length barrels. Bonus; If you have pistols, you may find a carbine that uses the same magazines. The only drawback, when compared to an AR, is less accurate.

While the topics you are looking for come up time to time, we don't really have a dedicated section like that because hardly anyone from a free state moves here. At least not willingly. If you can't find what you are looking for using search, just ask in the appropriate thread and you will get more answers than you can shake a stick at. Welcome to the forum

As best as I can tell, the BRJ model does not use a match barrel. This doesn't mean the rifle does not have the potential to be very accurate, it just means the chamber and bore specs are a little different. Match grade ammo is designed specifically for match barrels and all other 22lr ammo, (premium, standard, bulk) is made for a standard 22lr chamber. There's actually a lot more to this but I don't want to get lost in the weeds. Ammo for semi-auto is a whole other ball of wax and not relevant here except that you probably wont get good results with bullets shaped to feed better in a semi-auto. Most accuracy issues are a result of bullet deformity that occurs at the factory or in the rifle itself. You can check for deformation by cycling live ammo through your rifle. SAFETY FIRST, safety on and keep muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Cycle 5 rounds of each brand/type of ammo and inspect the bullets. Sometimes the bullets get scraped or dinged as it moves through the action. Cycling ammo will tell you if that is happening. If bullets are getting deformed as they are stripped from the magazine and travel over the action, you can get around this by single feeding. If they are getting damaged as they are chambered, then that ammo is no good for that gun. It's a bad match of bullet diameter and chamber. Some 22s will give good results to 50 yards and then around 60 to 70 yards the groups may fall apart. you could be getting 1' groups at 50 yards and 4' groups at 100. This is because of the typical 1:16 twist which is kind of slow. Even the most minor scrape or lopsidedness of a bullet will become more of a problem as the bullet slows down and yaws. First, try the cycling test to see if the bullets are being tortured. Next, try single feeding. You can also try fouling the barrel. Many barrels will shoot lousy with a squeaky clean bore. Conversely, they will also shoot lousy with a heavily fouled bore. You want just the right amount of fouling (sometimes referred to as leading) to smooth out and fill in the gaps and imperfections in the rifling. Also, check the crown. If it is even slightly dinged or scratched, it can have a very bad effect. This should be a good start on helping close those groups. Most of the info above is derived from an extremely well written paper by a retired gunsmith that goes by the handle Iowegan. Unfortunately I was not able to get permission to post his paper here. If you want to read the full paper just google the guy's handle and you will find what ye seek.

What is the complete model# of your rifle, FV-SR, TR, BRJ etc.?

Whelp, my blood work came back. It was negative for Lyme disease YAY!!! But, it came back positive for Rocky Mtn Spotted Fever. BOOOOO!!!! I start a 21 day course of antibiotics tomorrow. It's unclear whether I got it from a deer tick or a dog tick.