Scorpio64

I have a 1000 Amp 18Ah jump box, I'll bring it with me as a backup, just in case.

How many throws can you get off a fully charged battery?

Don't think I've seen pyracantha gnawed on either. My dad planted that under my sisters window. Kept away all kinds of animals.

I like to play hard to get... But I'm really a pushover.

You can put me down as a definite maybe probably. I bought a case of #8 and a case of White Flyers and will bring my Browning Citori and maybe my trusty old 870 which I have not shot in a long while.

Well, Murphy has made it pretty clear that he intends to enact some new "common sense" laws once he's in office. Ditching reloading because picking up brass is a bother is kinda lame. There's a bunch of ways to manage spent brass with catchers, screens or a brass wizard and marking your brass. I can understand if you don't like reloading in general, don't have the time or space or any of a number of good reasons. But picking up brass being too much of a hassle, c'mon.

Oops. My bad. Apparently Ruger went with the classic dovetail on the RA Rimfires. A trivial detail to the OP but incorrect none the less. However, this raises an opportunity to bring up another point. Their Target model comes with a factory installed Picatinny mount that slips over the 3/8ths dovetail. So, if you have a drawer full of Picatinny style rings, you can always get a dovetail to picatinny adapter. The only caveat is that it will raise your scope by about 1/2 MOA, depending on the thickness of the adapter. If you are using a scope with a big honking objective bell, it wont matter much.

Many bolt action 22lr rifles have a 3/8ths dovetail scope mount milled into the receiver. The Marlin 25/25N/25MN all have the dovetail. Some 22 rifles, like my Marlin 39D, are tapped to mount an optional dovetail rail. 3/8ths dovetail mounts and rings are usually referred to as rimfire or air rifle mounts and rings as they are the only rifles that still use that type of mount. Weaver and Picatinny mounts can be found on newer 22s, especially on semi-autos, but also on newer 22 bolt guns like the Ruger American rimfire.. Do not confuse the newer style mounts with classic dovetails. Here is a link to Midway USA's rimfire and air rifle scope rings. https://www.midwayusa.com/rimfire-and-airgun/br?cid=8589

Home Depot.... Husky torque screwdriver....$60.00 Pick up a tube of BLUE loktite if you don't already have some on hand.

I put a Magpul M-Lok swivel stud on my SPR to mount a bipod. It is very solid.

Yanno, you can always wrap trees and shrubs in burlap for the winter.

There, I fixed that for ya. Even though your post has nothing to do with the OP, I took the time. You're welcome.

Rutgers has a pretty extensive list of plants rating (grading) their deer resistance A,B,C,D. https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deerresistance/ As far as how late to plant. You can pretty much plant any time the ground is workable. It somewhat depends on what you are planting. Generally, I don't plant trees or shrubs any later than November but have planted conifers in December. When plants go dormant in the fall, they concentrate energy into root growth. As long as you plant 6 weeks before a deep freeze, you should be okay. Just make sure you plant 'em right.

You may not even need to roll. It's not an automatic thing, case by case basis. If you see lumps in your yard after the spring thaw, then roll it.

If your soil is compacted, rolling is the last thing you want to do. You would only roll in the spring when the ground is soft. Ice expands, right... If a lawn gets saturated with water from snow or rain, then freezes and thaws several times it causes heaving. .I would only recommend rolling if your lawn becomes uneven after the winter.

If your lawn is growing that fast I can only assume this, but my guess is you are watering it every day and putting down a lot of fertilizer. That, or you have a severe case of OCD. Let's talk about NPK. 1) Many fertilizers have a huge nitrogen (N) content but are low on phosphorous (P) and potash (Potassium -K) content. While a high N will make grass green up and grow fast, it causes the growth process to put too much energy into growing grass blades but neglects the root system. A balanced fertilizer should promote root growth and plant health, but who needs all those roots when the lawn is watered every day. Whenever there is a drought, those are the first lawns to go dormant and suffer from diseases. I see more moss and fungi on lawns with expensive sprinkler systems than anywhere else. Embrace your inner hippie and water less. It will promote more vigorous root growth and deeper roots. It will make your lawn more drought resistant in the long run. A deeper root system is more self sustaining. You can test your roots by simply trying to pull up a handful of grass or cutting a small patch of sod to see how deep the roots are. If the roots are 2" long or less, you are definitely over watering. A healthy root system should be 3" to 4" deep. Along the same lines of flower power, peace and love, I'm also a fan of organic fertilizers. I'm not talking about spreading cow pies all over your yard. Organic fertilizers are sterilized and pelletized and smells less offensive than fresh mulch. Organics have a lower ecological impact, are very unlikely to burn out a lawn, safe for seedlings, completely safe for pets and chicks dig it. The only downside to organic is it's more expensive, which I'm sure is no surprise, and you have to apply it more frequently, which makes it even more expensive. Full disclosure. I do not always (or even typically) use organic on my own lawn. That shit's expensive. Typically, I use a time release fertilizer in the spring and in the fall. Bada bing, bada boom. Anyway, I'm getting side tracked..... Just cut the grass as low as you can before you overseed.

That's another thing people don't do much anymore, roll their lawns. Back when I had my own landscaping company I used to roll problem lawns when they got soft after the winter thaw to even out the heaving from freezing. It also flattens mole tunnels. I would also roll a new lawn after the seed was put down. The guy I work for now doesn't do that. If you have high spots you should probably shave them off with a spade and a landscapers rake. If the high spots are really bad, like mounds of dirt or construction vehicle tire tracks, a box scraper will do the trick. Conversely, if you have low spots, fill them in with top soil.

Scalping.... Mowing at the lowest possible height, cutting the grass as short as safely possible, giving your lawn a crew cut. Don't put the mower blade in the dirt, just cut the grass really short. Think of it like this. Cutting the grass short enough to putt on.

We have been using Jonathan Green (local NJ seed grower) Ultra which is a mix of tall fescues, Kentucky bluegrass and perennial rye. It's an attractive all purpose seed mix for cool season growth, drought resistance and can handle moderate foot traffic. If you have lots of kids (or parties) in your back yard then JG Original may be a better choice for the back yard. If you want to be super lazy, you can order the seed on Amazon. Many landscape nurseries and local lawn and garden shops carry JG products. To find a supplier near you, use their store locator. http://www.jonathangreen.com/jonathan-green-store-locator.html Something I forgot to mention earlier in the thread. Don't forget to scalp your lawn before you begin the seed preparation process. If you are seeding the whole lawn, scalp the whole lawn. If you are spot seeding, just scalp the area to be seeded. Set the mow height the lowest you can without having the blade(s) hit the ground or surface roots. It's going to be another 4 to 6 weeks before you can cut your grass after seeding. Plus, the clippings help the soil retain water and add nutrients.

The range is "closed" in regards to shooting clays. Basically no skeet or trap allowed. Rimfire rifle (no pistols), muzzle loader and shotgun with buckshot and slugs are allowed. With that said. I've seen broken clay pigeons and 7.5 hulls all over the place there.

JP makes great stuff but I think you are paying more for the name than the quality. The click adjust system on the JP may be helpful but not necessary if you have a torque screwdriver. I put a YHM two piece with flip up sight on a flattop M4gery, 300 rounds and not a single issue. Obviously there's a huge difference between a bad gas block and a good one but I don't think there's that much difference between a good one and a really super duper good one.

Key words... Any firearm MADE FROM..... MODIFIED....ALTERED.... If it came from the factory with a stock, It should meet the federal criteria. If it did not come from the factory with a stock, and you add one, that is a grey area, as that may be considered a modification to the original firearm as manufactured. I understand the law as if it came as a box set, you're golden. If it came rom the factory as a stand alone and you add any kind of stock after the fact, you're boned.

QPQ barrels certainly have the potential for great accuracy but I think you will find more match grade offerings in stainless. Also, while 18" should do well,I can't help but think 20" is better suited to .308, especially if you will be shooting heavier bullets that typically use slower burning powder. Really, there will not be a tremendous difference between 18" and 20", but you are building a precision rifle so even the small differences count.

Yes, back then all they had was pulverized lime, the same lime used on baseball fields. You could always tell when someone used a drop spreader and got lazy doing it. The lawn looked like a green zebra. Nowadays, pelletized lime is more common, broadcast from a spreader and more uniform in coverage. The only problem with broadcast spreaders is they throw whatever is in it everywhere. Not a wise choice for weed killers.

You don't need the overseeder. Just a slicer and a spreader will do.. Seeding a lawn with just a spreader, no other mechanized gadgets, can absolutely provide good results under the right conditions. A slicer will always provide the right conditions. Since you mentioned pH... NJ soil is acidic almost everywhere. Lime is way underutilized here. I remember as a kid in the 60's and 70's almost everyone Limed their yards. Hardly anyone does it now.