Scorpio64

Look for wear on the right firing pin hole. If it was used a lot, the hole may be oblong which will cause light, indirect, firing pin strikes. I had a 311A like this, 9 out of 10 times it would fire, made duck hunting more a game of chance than skill

I got me a boat that's prone to sinking.

Energizer plug in rechargeable power outage activated flashlight. Not fancy but they just work. An automated back up battery powered lighting system is cool and all that but for regular schmoes like me this little $9 doohickey does the trick. Plus. I can take it off the wall, to get to my genny, without causing a hundred dollars worth of damage. btw, the link goes to a device that uses NiCad batteries. Man, NiCad is, like, soooo 80's.

I know that the normal laws of the land usually don't apply in the DPRNJ, but... I thought it was already determined that a loaded mag was not the same as having a loaded gun and that magazines, in and of themselves, were not firearms. Think I read that in a thread about loading mags to save time before going to the range. As long as the mags and the rifle were in separate locked containers it was (technically) all good. ie, rifle in trunk, mags in a bag in back seat, or something like that. Naturally, I don't want to be the test case for this so I follow Nappen's advice.

An old laptop (P III or better) with a decent webcam and the usually free (but basic) security cam apps can and will work inside a window.

I went to the store and panic bought milk bread and eggs and bought more mre's then bought more ammo on-line when I got home......what?....don't look at me like that.

The Vortex Venom is on the top of his list. Seems like a good sight, has a pretty wide fov.

Got some more info from him. It's not MOS compatible, does not have the two torx screws. He's not keen on getting it milled so we'll have to work around that.

Trying to help a friend with his RDS questions for his G17 gen4. He only has factory sights as of now. I'm reading up on the MOS mounting system. Other than that, I'm clueless. Is there anything y'all can add to help out with this project.

After looking into the "20 MOA" bases I cant really say that's what I have, per se. It appears, if i've read the articles right, that the bases on the 20moa bases are canted to accommodate certain reticles in extreme long distance shooting. My riser and rings are not canted. The farthest I'll get to shoot for a while will be 300 yards. I know these tight tolerances i'm aiming for wont make much of a practical difference right now. tbh, i'm not even that good a marksman yet. But still, I do love messing with numbers. I will probably get myself a chrono for x-mas. I'll need/want that for when I get into reloading. I'm using PPU .223 75gr OTM mostly and according to reviews, the velocity seems to be pretty consistent.

As it so happens, the Leupold Mk 1 cantilever base plus the Weaver rings do add up to almost exactly 20MOA. 1.044". I know this is splitting hairs to many people but this is how I do things. Shooting is not just a sport to me, it's also a science. I enjoy both aspects.

There is a lip under the BAP which adds an unknown value. The 1.250 figure is close, but it does not account for (subtract) the lip under the BAP.

BINGO! I just bought a Leupold Mark AR mil/mil scope for my SPR. Will be learning how to use a ballistics calc and all that jazz.

I've seen that pdf. The problem is, the measurement (1.875) is taken from the outer diameter of the barrel attachment point. Id need to know the receiver wall thickness, subtract that from 1.875 and then subtract .50 from the one inch diameter of the BAP. So I'm still unclear about the measurement. Edit: Correction. 1.875 is the measurement from the top of the rail to the bottom of the receiver where it mates with the lower.

Just mounted a new scope and I'm trying to be a little more "scientific" with this one. I need to find out what the centerline of bore to top of A4 rail is. I have found two measurements on-line, one is 1.250 and the other is 1.215. Can anyone verify which one is the correct measurement.

Come to think of it, there was a guy at Gene's last month looking to sell a Kreighoff trap gun. I believe he was asking only $17,000 for it. Thousands in savings, a real bargain.

I'm going to have to just go ahead and agree with you there Smokin50. I had been shopping around for about a year, not very seriously though, for an O/U to get back into trap shooting. One day I was at Salomon's on other business and asked Gene what he had in the way of "affordable" O/U's. He handed me the Citori Lightning and I immediately knew it was the one. The LOP and balance just happened to be right for me, but only by coincidence. The first time out with it, I shot a 16, 19 and 21 respectively. Not fantastic scores by any stretch but very good scores for someone who had not shot trap in 20 years. Figure out your budget, then go out to some LGSs and get some scatter guns in your hands. When you have the right one for you, you will know.

I bought a lightly used Citori Lightning off Gene Salomon's rack back in March. It's a very fine gun.

Okay, so let's assume my scope magnification values are actually 4-12 power, not the rounded off retail packaging values found on many scopes.. If I zero the scope at 100m on 12 power, then dial it back to 6, and move the target out to 200m and hold the crosshairs on center of target, where will the poi be? Will it be one dot under the crosshairs? one dot being 1 mrad which should equal 10 cm under the target center. btw, the scope i'm currently looking at is a Leupold Mark AR 4-12x40AO. Oddly enough, the actual power of the AO versions in this scope line are the actual power. Yanno... the more i think about this the more i'm thinking i'm going to go with a moa/moa scope instead. the conversions are killing me.

Yep.

Have your buddy lease you some storage space. Like, i dunno, a guest room or a closet. You will need to check local laws/codes for subleasing property in owner occupied structures. Especially if it is not his primary residence.

Modern tactical scopes are very new to me, I dunno if my terminology is correct but here goes. If a sfp mil dot (or moa) reticle is only "correct" at it's highest magnification, for example a 4-12 is only correct at 12x, would it be safe to assume that two dots at 6x would be equal 1 mil?

On the recommendation of High Exposure, I bought an ADM QD mount and lower 1/3 riser for my PA mini red dot. It is extremely solid and maintains zero. The first time I took it to the range I detached and reattached it after every mag, I think I went through 10 mags that day, and it kept the zero. Plus, they sent me some cool ADM stickers too. Who doesn't like stickers

It's funny, B&H, PA, Midway, SWFA, OP all have the same price within a few cents, $569ish for the Viper HS-t 4-16x44. Most have free shipping too. Some even offer flip caps and/or sun shades to sweeten the deal. I know I could easily pay more than double than $570 for a good scope but man, my wife is going to kill me. My original budget was $400.00 and I planned on reusing the Burris rings I have on the SPR now. I'm starting to second guess this purchase and revisiting the PA 4-14x40 FFP w/ACSS reticle. But blech... It's made in the PRoC. At first I was looking for an American made scope. After I quickly realized I could not afford a Leupy with the features I want, and Redfield didn't make what I wanted, then I started thinking about Jap and Filipino made scopes.

I'm glad you brought this up because it makes the idea I had yesterday sound less stupid. I was going to suggest finding someone who could afford to buy the chair and then they donate it to a charity or an individual. It becomes a win win. the seller gets the much needed cash, the buyer gets to make a donation and get a substantial tax write off to boot.