Scorpio64

Opossum on the half shell. There's a couple guys on the Marlin forum that talk about how delicious they are and how nobody eats 'em anymore on account of leprocy.

You need a garden tractor, Mr Hill. Hydro drive with front and rear 3pt hitches and hydro controls. 60" mower deck, rototiller, box scraper, front end loader, snow blower ( ha, just kidding), brush hog, aerator, etc. You need em all. For god sake man, your an effn Texan, get a tractor already.

Everyone should have pulled over as soon as visibility was practically zero. The folks who just plowed on through the whiteout are the same idiots that drive through five foot deep "puddles".

I wonder if he was living on reds, vitamin C and Cocaine.

Isn't that just a fancy name for prostitute?

That's a complicated question, but I'll give you a simple answer. Anything with 2,4-D, or a combo 2,4-D and Dicamba works well for most weeds. Wait until the daily temp is reliably >50deg. Be careful of over spray, the best times to apply are usually morning and evening when the wind is calmest. You can put nitrogen fertilizer down now as long as the P and K values are low or zero. No need to wait.

That's a Williams peep, it's a popular upgrade among Marlin owners.

Soil temp is very important, it is the catalyst for everything that happens. That's why Forsythia budding is like a turkey pop-up thermometer, it's a rule-of-thumb method for knowing soil temp is approaching 50 deg. When forsythia are in full bloom, the average daily soil temp is already at 55 deg and seeds are already germinating. By this time, the efficacy of pre-emergent is greatly diminished. Think of crabgrass control the same as birth control pills. They are used BEFORE "germination" to prevent germination. Pre-emergent protection typically lasts 60 to 90 days, so, if you put it down 30 days before soil temps are in the 50's, it is already there doing its thing. You don't want to put any granular products down while the ground is still hard. One heavy rainfall can wash it off your lawn and into the storm drains. Pre-emergents work differently than weed killer in two ways. Seeds on and under the soil surface absorb dissolved pre-emergent like a sponge when watered. That is why you can't put down grass seed the same time pre-emergent is present . You have to "water in" pre-emergents. On the other hand, weed killer is absorbed into the entire plant through the leaf of a seedling or mature weed. Most weed killers are not absorbed through the root, so watering-in does nothing but wash the herbicide off the plant you are trying to kill.

That is more of a crabgrass control than a spring 3 in 1. The linked product contains no nitrogen at all. Early spring NPK values should be N=18-25/ P=0-5/ K=0-5, for example, 22-0-5. NPK values do not need to be exact, just in the ball park of what is appropriate for the purpose and season. If you are using it strictly for crabgrass control, then by all means use it. But you will have to put down "weed and feed" separately. If you do that, use a fertilizer with very low P and K values. I plucked this from a random site, it gives the basics for what NPK represents and how each helps plant growth and health. We use Lesco Dimension Crabgrass Pre-emergent + Fertilizer at work. It's NPK is 19-0-7. Three to four weeks after application, we spray lawns with a broad leaf weed killer. Lesco products are available at Home Depo Put down your fertilizer with crabgrass prevention now, then deal with whatever weedlings managed to germinate a few weeks later with a broad leaf weed killer, or wait two months and put down a season appropriate fertilizer with weed killer.

Pre-emergent should go down now. In fact, it should have been put down two weeks ago. It lasts at least 60 days. Once crabgrass has germinated, it is too late to use a pre-emergent.

Looks like 1939 DoM

Time to put down early spring weed and feed with a pre-emergent.

Whatever you do, avoid at all costs letting her try any of your favorite guns. Once a wifey has decided she likes one of your guns, yep, you guessed it. It becomes "her" gun.

Was the P2P automatically extended when it was issued? If not, you may be able to just get an extension instead of submitting a new app.

Most noobs to AR Lyfe make a common mistake on first builds. The first thing they look for is what roll stamp is on the lower. It's an easy mistake because most builds begin with acquiring a stripped lower seedling . The real focus on where to start is the barrel. The barrel determines everything, and the absolute first question when buying and especially building is, what is the rifles purpose in life. Once you know that, you pick the best purpose built barrel you can afford, and build a rifle around it. The best lower/trigger/free float HG/BCG in the world won't make a shitty barrel shoot tiny dime sized groups.

Always Wear Underwear

njgf wiki

If it comes to that, I'm going to take LSD. Never tried it, but, end of the world seems as good a time as any.

Marlin Camp 9 PCC Ruger PCC Fugly PCC

Until it is observed. Then it's definitely there.

I can't speak to the veracity of this letter, but I did verify that the named FG&W biologist is a real person. The State of Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife sends a letter to a home/landowner asking for permission to access a creek on his property to document the decline in a certain species of unheard of frogs. The property owners' response in the second letter is EPIC. Letter from Washington Dept. Of Fish & Wildlife: Dear Landowner: WDFWR Staff will be conducting surveys for foothill yellow-legged frogs & other amphibians over the next few months. As part of this research we would like to survey the creek on your property. I am writing this letter to request your permission to access your property. Recent research indicates that foothill yellow-legged frogs have declined significantly in recent years and are no longer found at half their historic sites. Your cooperation will be greatly appreciated and will help contribute to the conservation of this important species. Please fill out the attached postage-paid postcard and let us know if you are willing to let us cross your property or not. If you have any concerns about this project please give us a call. We would love to talk with you about our research. Sincerely Steve Niemela Conservation Strategy Implementation Biologist ********************************************************** RESPONSE FROM LANDOWNERS: Dear Mr. Niemela: Thank you for your inquiry regarding accessing our property to survey for the yellow-legged frog. We may be able to help you out with this matter. We have divided our 2.26 acres into 75 equal survey units with a draw tag for each unit. Application fees are only $8.00 per unit after you purchase the "Frog Survey License" ($120.00 resident / $180.00 Non-Resident). You will also need to obtain a "Frog Habitat" parking permit ($10.00 per vehicle). You will also need an "Invasive Species" stamp ($15.00 for the first vehicle and $5.00 for each add'l vehicle) You will also want to register at the Check Station to have your vehicle inspected for Non-native plant life prior to entering our property. There is also a Day Use fee, $5.00 per vehicle. If you are successful in the Draw you will be notified two weeks in advance so you can make necessary plans and purchase your "Creek Habitat" stamp. ($18.00 Resident / $140.00 Non-Resident). Survey units open between 8 am. And 3 PM. But you cannot commence survey until 9 am. And must cease all survey activity by 1 PM. Survey Gear can only include a net with a 2" diameter made of 100% organic cotton netting with no longer than an 18 in handle, non-weighted and no deeper than 6' from net frame to bottom of net. Handles can only be made of BPA-free plastics or wooden handles. After 1 PM. You can use a net with a 3" diameter if you purchase the "Frog Net Endorsement" ($75.00 Resident / $250 Non-Resident). Any frogs captured that are released will need to be released with an approved release device back into the environment unharmed. As of June 1, we are offering draw tags for our "Premium Survey" units and application is again only $8.00 per application. However, all fees can be waived if you can verify "Native Indian Tribal rights and status". You will also need to provide evidence of successful completion of "Frog Surveys" and your "Comprehensive Course on Frog Identification, Safe Handling Practices, and Self-Defense Strategies for Frog Attacks." This course is offered on-line through an accredited program for a nominal fee of $750.00. Please let us know if we can be of assistance to you. Otherwise, we decline your access to our property but appreciate your inquiry. Name of landowner omitted.

No longer true. Only person to LEO or LEO o LEO. Private transfers have been done away with, replaced by FFL facilitated traceable transfers. But don't worry, there is no gun registry.

Remember the guys hawking soda and subs on the gas lines? There was a Hess station that typically had a line about a quarter mile long. Every day at least one car would run out of gas and had to be pushed into the station.