6 minutes ago, Mrs. Peel said:

I'm pretty sure that's Creeping Charlie. You'll have to read up on it as to treatment.

Thanks.  I'm guessing Wild Violet??  The leaves look much bigger than Creeping Charlie.  I think?

@Scorpio64 will know for certain.  

39 minutes ago, Mrs. Peel said:

I'm pretty sure that's Creeping Charlie. You'll have to read up on it as to treatment.

At first I thought it was Henbit, but I think you are right Peel.

47 minutes ago, gleninjersey said:

Thanks.  I'm guessing Wild Violet??  The leaves look much bigger than Creeping Charlie.  I think?

@Scorpio64 will know for certain.  

Maybe you have a mix of things in there? I know I get both creeping charlie AND wild violet occasionally sprouting up in my lawn. In fact, some of those bigger leaves almost look like violets...? The creeping charlie blossoms are really quite tiny... they're maybe only one-third of an inch while the violet blossoms are about 3/4 inch.

But you're right, of course... we'll all defer to Scorpio on this one... 

19 minutes ago, Mrs. Peel said:

Maybe you have a mix of things in there? I know I get both creeping charlie AND wild violet occasionally sprouting up in my lawn. In fact, some of those bigger leaves almost look like violets...? The creeping charlie blossoms are really quite tiny... they're maybe only one-third of an inch while the violet blossoms are about 3/4 inch.

But you're right, of course... we'll all defer to Scorpio on this one... 

I think you may be correct.  Creeping Charlie and something else.  It's bad this year.

1 hour ago, gleninjersey said:

I'm guessing Wild Viole

It looks like ground ivy to me, hard to tell, since you chopped up all the leaves, but the small survivors close to the ground are rounded scalloped leaves which suggest ground ivy.  Wild violet has a pointed leaf.  If you see both types of leaves, you have both.  It's a really terrible picture of mangled weeds.  It's hard to tell.

Doesn't matter, the cure is the same.  You can try to kill it with common broad leaf weed control, but it never works 100%.  If you can kill 80% or better, consider it a huge success.  It's super hard to kill without collateral damage.. If it's really dense. you may as well go all agent orange on Charlie and wipe out the entire area it's growing, then reseed or lay some sod. 

Here's the rub, it will still come back because the conditions are right for it and wrong for grass.  I'm sure it's growing in a damp shady area.  More sunlight and better drainage cures that.

 

I should have called @Malice4you to take the picture. 

It's in the sunny parts.  It's in the shady parts.  It's comeing up in cracks between the concrete.  I guess we've had a decent amount of rain this spring and ground has been fairly damp.  Definetly not dry.

This has some very good reviews and looks super easy to use.  Connect hose and spray.  I used a crabgrass pre-emergent (not weed and feed) about 5-6 weeks ago and then Milorganite about four weeks ago.  Thinking about hitting it wih the below to try to get the weeds under some sort of control and then drop some more Milogranite in another 2-3 weeks.

The "Weed Free Zone" seems to have all the correct active ingredients and list "Ground Ivy (Creeping Charlie)" as one of things it controls.  Fingers crossed.

https://www.domyown.com/fertilome-weed-free-zone-rts-qt-p-21417.html?msclkid=8e4351e51599134031733394cc40ea35

 

37 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

It looks like ground ivy to me, hard to tell, since you chopped up all the leaves, but the small survivors close to the ground are rounded scalloped leaves which suggest ground ivy.  Wild violet has a pointed leaf.  If you see both types of leaves, you have both.  It's a really terrible picture of mangled weeds.  It's hard to tell.

Doesn't matter, the cure is the same.  You can try to kill it with common broad leaf weed control, but it never works 100%.  If you can kill 80% or better, consider it a huge success.  It's super hard to kill without collateral damage.. If it's really dense. you may as well go all agent orange on Charlie and wipe out the entire area it's growing, then reseed or lay some sod. 

Here's the rub, it will still come back because the conditions are right for it and wrong for grass.  I'm sure it's growing in a damp shady area.  More sunlight and better drainage cures that.

 

I thought Creeping Charlie and Ground Ivy were the same thing…

4 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

I thought Creeping Charlie and Ground Ivy were the same thing…

According to the "Weed Free Zone"  product label (click on the PDF link to rightr after you click on the product link above) they are.

34 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

I thought Creeping Charlie and Ground Ivy were the same thing…

 

1 hour ago, Scorpio64 said:

you may as well go all agent orange on Charlie

Ya.  it's called many things.

Looks like soil temperatures are just about to crack, or have cracked, 50 degress.  While I haven't seen much, if any, forsythia yet it sounds like it's about time to throw down that crabgrass pre-emergement!

Thank goodness I don’t have to do that shit anymore. 

12 minutes ago, gleninjersey said:

Looks like soil temperatures are just about to crack, or have cracked, 50 degress.  While I haven't seen much, if any, forsythia yet it sounds like it's about time to throw down that crabgrass pre-emergement!

Yep, I'm putting mine down tomorrow, in Morris County.

Soil temps in the front yard (which is mostly sunlit) shot up from 48F on Friday to 58F yesterday, which caught me off-guard.  Even the shaded sides are suddenly getting close to 55F.    And I only learned last year that using Halts for Japanese stilt grass, which I have in abundance, requires putting it down a week or two earlier than one would for crabgrass prevention.

1 hour ago, gleninjersey said:

Looks like soil temperatures are just about to crack,

In my opinion, crabgrass control can be put down 30 days before soil temps will consistently be 50deg.  Each application should last 90 days.  With temperatures going up and down for weeks before soil temp is consistently 50, weeds and crabgrass will germinate and survive cold nights.

Going with Scorpio64's suggestion from years past and picking up some  Lesco 18-0-4 with Dimension   He's been doing this stuff for years brah! 

There is a SiteOne that is closer than the big box stores for me.  In year's past I thought you had to have some type of contractors license to buy there.  You don't!  When you sign up it actually asks if you are a contractor or homeowner/retail.  It is slightly less expensive from Home Depot by about $5. 

https://www.siteone.com/en/702021-lesco-dimension-015-18-0-4-30polyplus-opti45-25biosolids-pre/p/356320

 

8 hours ago, Displaced Texan said:

Thank goodness I don’t have to do that shit anymore. 

+10000

23 hours ago, Displaced Texan said:

Thank goodness I don’t have to do that shit anymore. 

 

15 hours ago, PK90 said:

+10000

I get it.  But at same time I don't mind it.  Something rewarding in taking care of your own lawn and it looking nice.

5 minutes ago, gleninjersey said:

 

I get it.  But at same time I don't mind it.  Something rewarding in taking care of your own lawn and it looking nice.

I still have to cut grass at the ranch. But I don’t fertilize the yard there 

2 hours ago, Displaced Texan said:

I still have to cut grass at the ranch. But I don’t fertilize the yard there 

Well, if you got a yard goat like I said, it would take care of the mowing and the fertilizing at the same time.  Better than a robot mower.  btw, robot mowers are terrible, every lawn I see that has them are scalped and the first to burn out in hot weather.

42 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

Well, if you got a yard goat like I said, it would take care of the mowing and the fertilizing at the same time.  Better than a robot mower.  btw, robot mowers are terrible, every lawn I see that has them are scalped and the first to burn out in hot weather.

Yard goats require protection from coyotes and bobcats, and I’m not out there every day. 

1 hour ago, Displaced Texan said:

Yard goats require protection

4 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

Assault goat? 

2 minutes ago, Displaced Texan said:

Assault goat? 

It's for the kids.

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Displaced Texan said:

Assault goat? 

It's what came up when I searched "tactical goat". 

Any idea what this grass like stuff with the seed heads is?

 

And how do I kill it?

That grass like stuff looks like ordinary perennial grass that went to seed.  It's hard to tell without a good picture of the seed heads, but all grasses will produce seed heads if they are not cut.  Lawns should be mowed about two weeks after they start growing again, even if it doesn't look like it needs it.  That prevents seed heads from forming, robbing the plant of energy better used for root and blade growth. 

 

6 minutes ago, Scorpio64 said:

That grass like stuff looks like ordinary perennial grass that went to seed.  It's hard to tell without a good picture of the seed heads, but all grasses will produce seed heads if they are not cut.  Lawns should be mowed about two weeks after they start growing again, even if it doesn't look like it needs it.  That prevents seed heads from forming, robbing the plant of energy better used for root and blade growth. 

 

The lawn is supposed to be a tall fescue type grass, but I get the feeling that the neighbors "weed" seeds invaded it.  Most of the lawn does not have the seed heads.

1 hour ago, Fred2 said:

Most of the lawn does not have the seed heads.

Most lawns are a mix of grasses like tall fescue, creeping red fescue and maybe some Kentucky blue thrown in for good measure.  It's unusual for a lawn to be of just one grass because of varying conditions such as sun and soil moisture.  For whatever reason, the grass that has gone to seed is the predominant in certain areas.

ONce you mow it and keep it maintained regularly, the seed heads will not reappear.  If the grass is a problem, just nuke the area with roundup late summer, then reseed with grass that is more similar to the rest of the lawn.

Just did my first mow Saturday.  Looking very patchy this year... sigh.  Probably gonna have to drop a whole bunch of seed and feed.

First mow, I’ve mowed 3 times already. 

1 hour ago, Krdshrk said:

Probably gonna have to drop a whole bunch of seed and feed.

If you have put down crabgrass control (pre-emergent), you should wait at least 60 days before seeding.