Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Malice4you last won the day on April 20 2018

Malice4you had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

398 Excellent


About Malice4you

  • Rank
    Smartass Extraordinaire!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location:
    Morris County
  • Home Range

Recent Profile Visitors

2,891 profile views
  1. I've got a 23, and have shot a friend's 17 and 19, all Gen 4 models. I really quite like the size of the 23, which is the same as the 19, but I do have larger hands. That said, I left mine in factory grip configuration, and like the size exactly as-is. I like that there is no pinky hangover, like there would be on a 26/27 -sized gun. I see no real reason to go to a 17, since all the 50, 33, 17, 15, and 10 round mags out there still fit in the 19, just without the extra grip length of the 17. And as someone else said, lotta other fun toys use glock 9mm mags. I'd suggest visiting a store to handle the 17 and 19 in gen 4 and gen 5 - if only to see if you prefer the grips of one or the other. I have no issue with the ridges on the grip, other people hate em. I have not really kept up with the newer generation changes, so I'm not too sure what the internal differences are, but I thought they were pretty significantly different. If you wanted to do the caliber conversion route, a 22/23 would be a good start, where you can have a .40, .357sig, 9mm, and should be able to do .22LR on one frame. One benefit of .40 was - during the panic - it was still somewhat available at reasonable prices. While 9mm, .22LR, .223, and .45 were all pretty scarce, I saw .40, .357sig, and 10mm on shelves most of the times I went. I almost started with the 21 Gen4 - that was what I was going to buy when I walked into the store. Had I gone that route, I'd certainly have added a 19 later on.
  2. I'm sure a use tax will eventually be instated, either with one of those little GPS OBDII dongle things, or mandatory mileage reporting on taxes, or other such bullshit. Or maybe EZPass readers on all the highways. Pretty sure our esteemed beaver-in-charge has proposed something like that already in the last year, because we are still taking home money for ourselves and he can't have THAT.
  3. Believe what he is saying is an AR with a 16" barrel - be it .223 or PCC - in a traditional AR configuration, will never be under 27" long, at least in NJ. My 16" upper with Phantom comp comes in at about 25" long, and the complete rifle at 34" (pinned at position 3 or 4). Considering an AR in .223 needs a buffer tube in most cases, you wont be shorter than about 32.5" long. Not sure that PCCs need the buffer for anything, but you are unlikely to find a 2" stock anywhere. The only way I can imagine being at 27" would not be legal in NJ, and that is using a piston based 16" upper with a folding stock, like an LR300; or as HE said, a bullpup configuration, like the AUG.
  4. Exactly. I'm sure there are plenty of other threads, I knew I'd posted in one "recently".
  5. For a budget build, I'd say it will be hard to get a better rifle cheaper. That price plus a lower is still easily $150+ less than what my cheap build was. I'm sure it will run and run fine. Main complaints I've heard on the cheapest PSAs were things occasionally not properly staked and the finish on the cheapest line was not particularly nice or various other minor quality issues. I don't know how widespread those complaints are, so I decided to skip the Freedom stuff. PCC is good to go in NJ as long as you again follow all the same laws/rules as for any other semi auto rifle. I know there are a few discussions on PCCs in various places here, I'd guess general firearms or rifle sections primarily.
  6. Pretty much any law you hear about in a gun store likely does not actually exist anywhere but the head of the guy telling you about it.
  7. That is from the Freedom line, so that's up to you - hiding in small text somewhere on the bottom. The reviews on the site seem quite positive, and price is right that's for sure. Since it's coming from a free state, the flash hider will [99% likely] be easily removed since that whole 'pinned and welded' bullshit only applies to stuff that would be an SBR without that extra length of a hider/comp/break
  8. No problem. PSA's Freedom line is their entry-level stuff, that would be the stuff you probably should avoid. I'm sure it will work fine, but I would prefer to spend what usually ends up being like 15-30% more than the Freedom stuff costs for the next step up. And usually for $100-150 more, you can step up to something in the "premium" line. Not everything comes with the bolt carrier group or charging handle, which you may or may not want as a kit. Typically, expect a decent BCG and basic charging handle to add $100+ Are you planning on running cheap bulk .223/5.56x45 ammo - 55-62 grain stuff? You'll likely see 3 options for barrel twist, 1:7, 1:8, or 1:9, and bullet weight you expect to use will have a [small] effect on what to pick. For cheap bulk ammo, I'd stick with 1:9 or 1:8, but if you expect to use heavier ammo, like 69+grain stuff, go 1:7 or 1:8. I'd say 1:8 is a good all-around twist for most ammo, though I have .223 rifles in all three twist rates. Are you going to be using an optic? If the upper has a built-in front sight post, that can be a real pain to deal with.
  9. While thinking about it, I believe PSA has 3(+?) 'tiers' of uppers. Basic el cheapos, mid tier, and 'premium' - I've got the mid tier, and it is the bare minimum that I would suggest buying from PSA - the super cheap line gets mediocre reviews. The premium line I believe uses FN barrels. I've had no issues with mine, and mine was (at the time) a super budget build with an Anderson lower, PSA LPK, PSA enhanced milspec tigger, and a NiB BCG. I ground the bayonet lug myself, cold blued it, bought a YHM Phantom comp, had a mechanic friend pin/weld it for me. Pinned the stock myself. One note on the 14.5" uppers out there...some come with a flash hider (no go in NJ) already permanently attached, so keep an eye out for that if you do go for a 14.5. PSA (when I last looked) only had like 1 or 2 models of 14.5 that didn't have a flash hider permanently attached. PSA has sales on things fairly often, though things go outta stock quickly if the price is right, so keep an eye out, and maybe set up email reminders if there is something you want. Keep in mind once the comp is permanently attached, you likely can't change certain components without destroying the comp, so be sure you don't want a free float handguard or something before it gets attached. Other thing to do when building the lower, if you do get a stripped lower and assemble it yourself (it's easy, just do it, saves money and you learn something) is to do the stuff with springs INSIDE a large clear plastic garbage bag, so if/when a spring/pin try to launch themselves around the word, they can't go far and get lost. Also, some layers of tape in certain areas doesn't hurt to prevent scrapes from tools. And be careful attaching the trigger guard pin - apparently easiest part to break on the lower. If I were starting again, I woulda gone PSA premium with a 14.5" barrel for my first AR and an 18" heavy barrel for my second. I always can in the future, but woulda been better starting point instead of buying twice. Again, nothing wrong with my mid-tier one, just woulda been nicer to have what I'd really wanted from day 1.
  10. Look at the list of banned features posted in current gun laws section sticky. Since it will likely have a pistol grip and detachable magazine, you will need a fixed or pinned stock (20 cent roll pin and a drill to do it yourself), no bayonet lug (dremel or grinder and some cold blue), a pinned/welded comp or brake if the barrel has threads. Overall barrel length needs to be 16+ inches. Keep in mind you lose maybe .5" to threading if looking at a 14.5" barrel and short comp. You may be able to time, pin and weld it yourself if you know what you are doing, otherwise any gunsmith should be able to do it for you. I will assume you don't have a grenade launcher, binary trigger, auto trigger pack, or bump stock. Most of the work you can do yourself. Pin the stock before you get the upper, and dont mate upper and lower until all your compliance work is done. Don't delay doing the compliance work if you have everything to make a full rifle. Police helos aren't gonna swoop in because you had an unopened UPS box with an upper at home for 5 hours, but you should do the compliance work ASAP.
  11. Can they use a different browser or device? I've had things that were broken because of various extensions, or the browser itself being uncooperative. Switching to a different browser which either handles things differently or doesn't have the same stuff installed is usually enough to fix it.
    Member for about 7 years as of writing this. Price of membership is good compared to many NJ ranges, as of writing, $50/year, plus one time $50 fee for new members. Guest pass cost is an extra $50/year. Guest pass users are supposed to only shoot from the same lane/port as the member, but it likely isn't an issue with anyone if the range isn't full and the guest is competent if the guest uses a 2nd port. Membership is yearly from date of signup. You must wait til you get your member card before you can shoot on the range - their site incorrectly states to print the receipt to use as a temporary ID after checkout - this practice is no longer allowed. There is a rimfire only range, two pistol ranges, an action range for pistols/shotguns, and a 100 yard rifle range. There is also a special events range which is never actually open except for special events - I've never seen it. On the average weekend, the rifle range tends to be the most crowded, the action range is fairly popular, and pistol ranges tend to always have a few people. The rimfire range is often unoccupied or only has one or two other people using it. During the week, you may well have the range you are using to yourself for at least some of the day. If you can go on non-holiday weekdays, you may have your very own private club for some of your stay. On weekends, there is no logic I can see to if it will be packed, busy, or empty. I've seen beautiful days with almost no one there, and I've seen bad weather days where ranges were busy; and 2 hours difference may also mean the difference between people waiting and being alone on the range. Parking for the pistol and rimfire ranges is plentiful, and you shouldn't have too big a problem unless lots of people are using every port. Parking for the action and rifle ranges, however, is pretty bad, as there is pretty limited parking, and some people cannot park with any consideration for anyone else, seriously limiting available space to park. The shooting ranges are all outdoors, however most shooting areas are covered, so you can shoot without getting wet if it starts to rain. Most areas have a stool, large bench, and plywood to hang targets. You cannot bring your own steel targets or own target stands. There has occasionally been club-provided steel, but best bet is to not expect any to be there. As long as you are safe and follow the club rules, you should not have too many issues from RSOs. Rules seem to be fairly in line with most ranges, with no serious annoyances coming to mind. Overall, I have no serious complaints about EFGA. I wish parking for the rifle range/action range were better, though that's a tall order (and mostly dependent on how other members park). I wish we could use our own steel if they are not going to provide club steel. Their email system is broken or something, because I do not ever receive any emails from them, except for renewal reminders, so I don't know of updates about EFGA unless I see a post on facebook (I follow them there), someone posts about it here, or I look at the club calendar and it is posted there. I wish the rumored 200+ yard range would either be confirmed and/or finished, but I've heard about that since I joined, and some things at EFGA seem to move at a glacial pace, so I'm not holding my breath. For $100-150 for your first year, the range is a good value for someone living relatively near the range. I expect to keep my membership as long as I live in this area, supplementing it with a farther away club with a 300yd range, and a NJ hunting license to use WMAs to shoot rimfires/shotguns.
  12. Interesting video. I've researched them years ago and pretty sure I had heard it was "baked" in - at least on some models, but seeing how they actually do it was different than I expected. If I were doing a new McMillan stock for my Savage, I like the MARBLE - 60% BLACK 30% DARK BLUE 10% LIGHT BLUE, though I have liked the blue, black, and grey camo pattern since first noticing it (or something close) in the movie Speed, 20+ years ago. One benefit of being a photographer is color calibrated monitors... Unfortunately, the pictures people take often leave a lot to be desired, so it does me absolutely no good in the end anyway. But at least on the rare occasion I actually sell something, it is accurately represented on my end... I've occasionally been pleasantly surprised buying something that looks better than the pictures, but not too often. Sometimes, the colors I was not super happy with at first become something I end up liking even more than what I'd hoped for.
  13. Well, that is certainly going to be one rather unique rifle. And I can imagine it will attract some attention, even before it puts 3 shots in the same hole. I do really like the pattern, though my color choices would be a bit different - I'd say more purple/blue/black or other combo of cooler colors...or maybe more of a red/purple. Think of the laminate wood stock blues, purples, greys... Of course, it isn't me you're making happy (well, watching these get built up DOES make me happy), so long as you like it, that's all that matters. I have stocks on two .22s that attract a fair amount of attention and certainly aren't for everyone, but I like em. Looking forward as always to see this progress.
  14. Having watched the progress of your projects from the sidelines, I would be quite sad if you only ever ended up making a handful (armful?) of rifles. I've been impressed by the skills you have and hope that - if you do get an 07 - that I might be able to afford one, because I do appreciate the work and skill involved in building something incredibly precise. Considering that in the back of my mind, I'm constantly thinking about selling some of the guns I own to buy an Anschutz or Vudoo .22, and how I still want an Accuracy International, like I have wanted for a good 18+ years, I do appreciate a quality rifle...even if my nicest rifles at the moment are a bone stock Savage and a mildly worked on (by me) Savage. Someone mentioned doing general gunsmithing in addition to whatever you do decide to work on, and I would agree that it might be a good way to help get an income flow while building a name for yourself. If you choose to go rifle, things like bedding rifles or other accuracy enhancements might help get your name out. Other accessories might help the bottom line, since you have the right tools, maybe things like custom bolt knobs, comps, or other metal products. I've bought a specialty bolt knob off ebay, so if you had some made up, you could sell at your convenience. Or maybe offer truly custom products - I'd like a bolt knob similar to what I have now, but in steel and larger...so if you were willing to do customs, might be worth looking into. All that said...it is all about what will make YOU happiest. If building and fitting 1911s is what will make you happiest, then I'd say go that route. If making insanely precise rifles is what you're all about, go for it. Or listen to the people who say machining is machining and do both. I'm sure you'll find buyers and be successful in either direction, even if it starts with selling to someone here first. I do envy you, because I would love to have an 07, but lack the money, business sense, or any other skill one might need to actually make any use of an 07 may hold me back a tad...
  • Create New...

Important Information