GRIZ

I have a question about magazines... I know the 30 round glock mags are illegal to ship to NJ, but is it like the hollowpoints law where you are allowed to have them on your property (i.e. you would never take it off property unless SHTF)? No magazines over 15 rds for the average shooter period. Only LEO (as required by duty) and FFLs who can only sell them to LEOs with a letterhead.

Nice rifle at the right price! I have 2 DPMS rifles for 6-7 years now and have zero issues with either.

There's been a lot of argument about the state matching for pensions. Many forgot if they work for someone else your employer is paying like 7.5% for Social Security.

if the balls you are using are too small or are damaged/wrinkled That's what I said. The guy you quoted goes on about lack of grease or a wad does not contribute to chain fire if you have a properly fitting ball. He ends with saying what I said. If you use balls of the correct diameter without imperfections you don't need a wad or grease. if the balls you are using are too small or are damaged/wrinkled it can cause a chain fire as your article states. I didn't say you were wrong I stated what I discussed in this post.

There may be some experimental bias in there. If you have a poorly fitting ball or load a cast ball with the sprue to the side you can have a chain fire. If you use a properly fitting ball for the cylinder you will not get a chain fire whether the ball is .451 or .454.

You should never use any petroleum oil or grease at all on a black powder gun because the fouling turns it into tar If you're using petroleum based greased, hope your using a BP Sub, cause the sulpher in real black creates tar like glennp mentioned, and that can carmelize and give you plenty time to use up your elbow grease during cleaning. Never heard of that but I suppose your right. I use FFFG. I don't see any extra problem cleaning and that may be due to the fact I clean immediately after firing. It works for me. Chain fires are from poor fitting caps. you can put black powder OVER the ball and nothing else and still wont get a chain fire (this has been done). How do you keep the powder in with nothing over it? I won't be trying that it sound s like a dangerous parlor trick. If you have a poorly fitting ball the grease prevents a chain fire. If you have a tight fitting ball you won't get a chain fire even without grease or an over powder wad. A chain fire can also be the result of poorly fitting caps.

Either wonder wads or natural grease Wads are neater but more expensive than grease. I use wheel bearing grease I put in a 100 ml syringe. I just squirt the grease over chambers and smooth it out with any available straight edge. Never any chain fire problems.

Just curious where you got this? I've only flown with a handgun once on Continental, but remember reading somewhere that the ammo couldn't be in the box with the gun. That may be with some airlines but I fly Continental often and I got that from TSA and Continental website. Airlines can make their own rules too as long as they are not contrary to what TSA says. However, I've never flown on any airline that was more restrictive than TSA.

The previous statement was "That's pretty close to the 1000fps that I have heard you are supposed to max out at for lead bullets." Max velocity with lead bullets is more dependent on pressure than velocity. Higher pressures don't necessarily mean higher velocity. The brinell hardness, type of lube, and sized diameter also come into play. Hard bullets don't always mean less leading. Probably the one thing that prevents leading more than anything else is using a gas check bullet. I knew a guy who loaded 30-06 for a Garand with a 165-170 gr gas checked bullet that was going about 2500 fps (actually chronoed) that had no leading problems. The problem with using gas checked bullets is if you don't make them yourself they cost about the same as jacketed. I run a hard cast 240 SWC in 44 mag up to an actual 1400 fps. It starts to lead after about 50 rds or so but I'll never need to fire that many of these loads at one time.

PDs have their own way of doing it, I've had everything from drop it off and pickup in a few days to drop it off and received in the mail the next day. I had one that had expired 10 days prior and didn't notice it until the FFL I was buying the gun from did. The PD renewed it with no problems.

I've had one for awhile and refer to it as my "lupara". It will serve you well.

I think the G19 is the best all around Glock 9mm. I'd give Glock an edge in reliability and durability but the Beretta is also a good choice.

I've had one for awhile, works fine.

It could make it possible for people in New Jersey to conceal carry legally with Florida conceal carry permits. I think not as NJ has their own crooked way of looking at things. The AG has an opinion letter (tanamount to law in NJ) regarding LEOSA. Recognizes LEOSA (like they can ignoire a Federal law?) but says if the retired LEO is a NJ resident they must have a NJ RPO Carry Permit (and provide the state with $50 to do so).

Maybe I should expand the case mouth a little more? That could be teh problem. Don't know what diameter the plated bullets are but most lead (in 45) is .452 and jacketed is .451. I do about 95% of my handgun reloading with lead bullets and don't hace issues.

Ron Paul would get my vote, however, I think that it would be better to take the lesser of two evils. If Paul doesn't have a chance to win, and his votes merely detract from a candidate with a better shot, then it might be better to vote for the safer bet. These are my feelings also. If you vote for Ron Paul you may as well vote for Obama. Paul has a favorable (to our eyes) stand on guns but I can't agree with his stick our heads in sand isolationist view of dealing with the rest of the world. Who's better? Someone that has a chance of winning. I'm still looking and see how things develop. I'd rather have someone who gets a B on gun issues that's for smaller government and lower taxes than someone who gets a A for guns and wants to get into our wallets and everyday lives deeper.

Out of state residents can get a NJFID but cannot purchase a firearm of any type in NJ (see bottom of COE).

if you could import several (like a NJGF group buy), it would come out to quite the bargain still. Well yes and no. If you were importing them because you are moving to the US that would be less of a problem. If you're going up there to get them imported you would be better served by getting a licensed importer to do it for you. State and Commerce get involved and you have to be concerned with International Traffic in Arms Regulations (ITAR). If you were doing it yourself you would have to get a license (I think its a couple thousand for that) and then you have to pay an application fee, which ahs to be paid whether it gets approved or not. All those "savings" would soon get eaten up.

If its the hard type of HK case and it has a provision to add a lock that would be okay. Ammo can be inside same box (if possible) and in magazines in a nmag holder that covers the bullets or in factory box. I use a case big enough to hold 2 handguns and ammo, lock that, then put that locked case in a Haliburton with some clothes. I also lock the haliburton.

So this means bad guys will just paint their guns bright colors... That has already been done. I know of some Tec 9s seized in Miami that were painted orange and bright green over 10 years ago.

You can estimate the length of a pump will be at least 6" longer than a comparable barrel double to allow for bolt travel.

Long guns can be transfer between two FPID holders with a simple Certificate of Eligibility, you can just print these up yourself. You both get FPID's and then you fill out COE's transferring the gun to each other dated on the same day. Keep them in separate places. This is a fine example of the insanity of NJ gun laws!

I have one that's worked well for me for a few years with no trobules. The Stoegers are made 20" to meet legal criteria in other countries that's it sold in. Buy the 20" and you will not notice the difference from a 18 1/2".

Field strip yes. Complete disassembly only when the gun is broken. A few years ago I had a 1911 I bought in 1975 rebuilt. how many times has it been apart before this? Not since it was assmebled at the factory. I can understand people want to see how things work but detail stripping on a regular basis is courting disaster. More guns are probably screwed up this way than saved.

I'm pretty sure I don't want a revolver right now, although fans of the wheelguns can feel free to advise me of some of their merits that I might be overlooking. I have said numerous times here and in other places a 4" 357 is about the best all around gun you can get. No semiauto has a selection of power loadings as a 357 from 38 wadcutters to full magnums available commercially. Its not too big to conceal but big enough to shoot well. If you master a the trigger on a DA revolver, everything else is easy. I'd look at a GP100 or S&W L-frame.