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raz-0

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Everything posted by raz-0

  1. Some Amex are charge cards, like the green card. Some are credit cards like the blue card.
  2. It doesn't work well for small pistol cartridges, and probably not at all for rifle. Some people have posted their attempts on YouTube.
  3. No this has been the planned day to introduce it since before that happened.
  4. http://www.nytimes.com/1987/03/09/us/83-to-be-victims-of-crime-violence.html According to studies in the 80s, someone age 12 at the time had an 83% chance of being a victim of a violent crime. That stat is pretty much me as I was 12 in 1985, when the study ended. And hey guess what, they were right. Having access to a firearm ended it before anyone got really hurt. That's higher than your odds of being in a serious car crash.
  5. Doh Topher. NIce attempt, but you are so very, very wrong. There was no machine gun ban in 1956. You had the NFA in 1934 which was a tax and registry. Then you had the 1986 ban that closed the registry to newly manufactured machine guns. The most lethal school massacre was the bath school massacre in 1927. 38 kids killed, 6 adults killed, and 58 other people injured. It was a bombing. The largest mass murder in the US were the happyland murders. 87 people were killed because of a drunk pissed off boyfriend with LESS than a gallon of gasoline and a match. Also of note would be the cologne school massacre which only had 8 children and two adults dead, but had twenty children and two adults survive with severe burns. It was perpetrated with a flame thrower made from a garden sprayer, a mace, and a lance. He was also diagnosed as mentally ill. AS for the UK stats their rate of violent crime is not 4 times ours. It is higher, but it is hard to get an apples to apples comparison due to the statistics. However, their incidence of gun violence has risen 4 times (or more) since they enacted their firearms ban.
  6. Might not be. OB got nooks for scoring, and the form may just be closed to pull data so I can walk him through loading competitors. Check back Friday.
  7. I don't take it personally, it's your paperweight if you mess it up real bad and I'm not paying for it. I'm saying that if you look at a good pillar bedding job, or a factory one that is cheap but designed to not have the rifle come in under warranty, you will see one common thing which is that you want the action screws basically in the middle of the hole in the pillars. On factory jobs, usually the tightest fit item is the front recoil lug as it is the least delicate part that might bear recoil, and the part of the stock interacting with it is meaty and not on display to the end user, so you don't need it to look pretty, just work right. That means you need your bored out holes to be concentric enough to the originals that you don't space the front lug away from the face in the stock when the screws are centered. If you do, you may have pushed it far enough forward that as recoil seats the action further back, the first thing to make contact is one or more of the action screws hitting the wall of the pillar. You also need them to be square to the action as if the action is tilted one way, you wind up essentially pinching the pit of stock between the pillar and the front lug between the lug and the action screw and wind up with the screw and lug under stress the whole time (probably not enough for the lug to care), and THEN add the stress of recoil forces when firing. Tilt them the other way, and you have the bottom of the action screw(s) pushing the front lug forward, and when you fire, you apply the initial recoil impulse to the action screw, and you do so at the end of the longest lever it is capable of being which amplifies the stress force where the screw meets the action. Does it need to be absolutely perfect? No. It needs to be within the margin provided by the tolerance gap between the ID of the pillar and the OD of the action screw. You can even hog out a bit of the stock to make up for some issues with things being level, and move the impact surface in the stock rearward a teeny bit to make sure the stock fitment isn't wedging between the action and lug. Also keep in mind that pillar bedding is primarily to prevent stock crush. IT ensures the action and stock fit together the same way each time and that your POA/POI relationship doesn't shift as the wood of the stock compresses. http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-656/Stocky's-Perfect-Pillar-Driller/Detail This is stocky's solution to concentricity, and is actually a reasonable middle of the road solution, and similar to what a lot of gunsmiths actually use. The score-hi setup is geared towards absolutely precise fit, and targeted more at the gunsmith who wants it to hit the customer looking like it is worth every penny they just charged him. I just happened to know it existed and used it as an example. You have to keep perspective that a good, reasonably priced 1911 smith will take $1500 of parts and for about $1000 plus shipping turn them into a REALLY nice 1911 that FEELS better put together than anything factory. Your average precision rifle smith takes a $500-700 rifle and hands it back to you for $3000-4000 and at most the obvious bits are a new barrel, a new stock, and maybe a visibly different finish, and it likely only improved over factory performance a very small amount. I'm getting something built up off a surgeon action though, I'd like them to use a really nice jig. While at least you didn't use the dollar bill test. I have yet to meet a stock that is rigid enough and thermally stable enough in combonation with the barrel for a dollar to do it. Myself, I usualy use two business cards, and check the fit warm and cold. Really, ideally, you want the space to be enough to not make contact during barrel whip while firing, but that's a harder goal, and usually settiling for consistent is the next best thing. As for the only reason to be changing stock is if you don't like the stock, it's likely not the source of your accuracy problem. the B&C bed is pretty good, and you aren't going to improve on it much. without knowing what you are doing, doing it REALLY well, and being a good, consistent shot. If you are getting 1.5-2" at 100 yards, it's you, your ammo, or the barrel. Nothign that is going to be helped by changing the stock out unless it is rubbing up front or making a lot of contact when the barrel flexes. Easy, when bedding the whole action afterwards, use a bedding compound that is really thick, then don't get the front and rear cinched down to the same degree of tightness using a cinching mechanism that isn't strong enough to not slip a bit while resisting the expansion of the epoxy compound. Ta-da! All of the sudden although your pillars were right without the action bedding, they are now wrong and effectively angled and no longer square to the action as it sits in the stock. Devcon plasti steel makes a TOUGH bedding surface, but it is a PITA to work with. Want to know how fun it is to try and REMOVE it from a stock to fix your mistakes? Like I said, it is definitely TOUGH stuff. What caliber is it? None of that stuff is striking me as better than decent ammunition geared towards hunting, and from the weights you 700 is probably not a .308. LOTS of barrel whip. Using fornt pressure to play harmonic tuning games can work wonders, but you do it for a praticular load and don't use anything else when you want accuracy. OR you can do like your brother and bed the whole thing. It doesn't yield maximum improvement, but generally increases performance across a wider range of ammo. Everyone has to learn. I think the main issue is that you decided a new stock was the answer, and it likely isn't as the stock you have isn't bad. Thus your odds of affecting an improvement other than an ergonomic one are minimal, and you have introduced opportunity to effectively make things worse by putting a stock on it with a DIY fit that is wrong. Not the best place to spend your money IMO, but it is spent already. Given the gun, I would look first at the shooter. Then look at the ammo and optic in use. THEN the barrel. It's a light weight hunting rifle you bought hunting ammo to run through it, and you are getting acceptable hunting accuracy if your 1.5" to 2" groups are at 100 yards. You want teeny tiny groups, then a beefier barrel is probably in order, which probably requires a new stock, and then some decent hand loaded ammo and a scope that has an adjustable objective or side focus to minimize parallax to cope with you not being a super awesome shooter with machine like repeatable cheek weld (not intended to be an insult, it's just an aid worth every penny if you aren't going to be out there practicing like a machine). Shooting isn't a cheap hobby, but it isn't insanely expensive either.. Home gunsmithing on the other hand...
  8. Prices had gotten insanely low. I don't know if they will be back, inflation alone probably doomed the prices for lowers and BCGs. PArt of what had been a steady downward force on prices was a steady supply of used parts post AWB, and a general push by retailers to reduce the number of middle men in the average path from true manufacturer to consumer. With the level of buying, SOME of this stuff is going to have to get dumped back on the market. However, I suspect the issues created with the market are going to cause some businesses to fail and bring back the middle man issue to an extent. I also think that this rush is going to bring a whole new round of gospel on what is good and what is bad quality that will be based on overcapacity manufacturing now rather than anything accurate.
  9. There are people with opinions based on experience (this does NOT imply rational or irrational), and people with opinions handed to them by someone else. There are a LOT of antis who fall into the latter category, and you would be surprised how often you can sway their opinion. At least enough to get them to the point they deal with it as a multi-faceted issue rather than an absolute truth. Heck, you can even persuade those whose opinions are based on experience. The real problem is that you have to be having an actual conversation. Last I checked that ruled out facebook in it's entirety as it is primarily a platform for telling other people how awesome you think you are while ignoring them. That and facilitating screwing up your life by trying to bang someone you once liked in high school
  10. More than likely
  11. Maks has been at SHOT show, which might have something to do with it.
  12. Best bang for the buck is Savage. THeir barrels have been better than remington for a while, and right now QC across the board is better. Their aftermarket is growing as well. There are good reasons for this. The remington 700 has the biggest pile of aftermarket goodies and gunsmiths out there. More and more it seems, you will need it. I personally chose column C, but if I were buying one today and had a budget, it'd be a savage.
  13. It's apples and oranges. The debt ceiling was never a real issue. It was a bargaining chip or a tool to generate spin at best. The reality is you have both Rs and Ds who want to get money spent with little concern for the future, and there was never any doubt of it getting raised. Even for those who consider it a significant issue, it's not like their is a functional alternative you could shut down the whole shebang, turn off the lights, and you still couldn't pay for the obligations despite your newly minted inability to actually cut a check. There's no solution that doesn't piss off most of the voters out there and/or result in the dollar instantly being worthless.
  14. Every, and I mean EVERY, time I have contacted Menendez regarding an issue, be it email or letter, the response is basically the same format, like a mad lib. Translating out of the business letter jargon and structures it runs like this. My office money's have recieved your correspondence on <fill in issue> I would like to say that I will consider your opinon on this issue, but that woudl be a lie. Here's my opinion, <insert opinion>, and it is unquestioningly right. I will take this opportunity to say that my opinion is always in the interest of the greater good, and anyone who disagrees is an a-hole. Please stop mailing me you a-hole, sincerely <insert image of signature during mail merge> This has been the form letter regardless of the actual subject he is being contacted on by me, which is usually something where my opinion is "this violates amendment X, and undermines the best interests of the people, the government really should try to avoid doing that". He has zero interest in the rights of the people, or the constitution. He doesn't even regard it as an obstacle, he doesn't grasp it as a set of rules. Rules are what he makes, and you will shut up and do what he says.
  15. They got discontinued because they didn't sell well enough. When they started shipping more shortly before they nixed them, it was time for new molds and tooling, and they didn't think the market was there at increased prices. Since I've seen them go for $125 and more, I think the proof is there for supporting higher prices. Either that or a factory in china needed something to keep them from going idle.
  16. OK, look.. you can make the wholes big and sloppy and still have something that works out the gate if you know how to compensate for it. The issue is durability because if you DO do that, then your basically making up all tolerance issues with a) epoxy or b) creating a sloppy bedding situation where the the least variance in tolerances are the front lug or the tang so they get abused first. THe issue with making the epoxy do all the work is that you have to choose a compound, and they either sugar over time, or use a filler material that makes them a bit of a PITA to work with. On the tough but PITA end of filler material, most of them oxidize over time, and the sloppier your bedding job becomes (i.e. hogging it out and using the epoxy like bondo at a maaco shop), the greater your exposure to the elements. Heck, you can do the pillars perfectly and still mess things up, ask me how I know. It's not as simple as it seems to do it well. But as for where to stop bedding, you don't really want to bed forward of where the chamber ends in the barrel. You want minimal chance of messing it up, use the score hi kit, and rent their jig. However, unless you hate your B&C stock, you are wasting your time. THe B&C aluminum beding block is pretty good, and you aren't really going to outperform it in terms of bedding the action as a first time. Heck, maybe not even if you know what you are doing. Your group sizes are not likely to be due to the stock and fitment thereof. IF it is biggest liklihood wit the B&C is some rubbing up front which you can fix with judicious use of abrasives.
  17. http://ar15performance.com/barrels They are decent barrels and exceptionally non-gougy prices right now. No idea how long they will last. 5.56, 6.8, 6mm AR-p and .308 Word of caution, their in stock 5.56 with threads are 5/8-24 which is not standard for 5.56. But they do have some target crowns in 5.56 and it's standard for the other calibers.
  18. Politifact definitely has a bias. The bias is left leaning and in line with their funding. Put politifact bias into google and you will get tons of examples. They are big on making excuses for Obama, doing things like flagging compromised promises as in progress because they are sure he'll finish them some day, and holding GOP candidates speculative statements to a standard of needing to be factual while dems speculative statements are often categorized as opinion which they don't fact check.
  19. OK, this is a mite concerning.. powder valley is out of shotgun primers, and half their percussion caps. Looks like they jsut got a shipment of TULA large pistol magnum and 7.62 primers. Other than that, it's the berdan stuff. All the good .223 powders are out. Most everything else is too. Looks like just 1lb containers coming in and out. Everything VV is in though, which is shocking any time, much less now. Midsouth is in similar state as is wideners, etc. Just WOW. I've got about 3 years of inventory on hand if I shoot the same amount, but I have to wonder at this point what I'll be paying to replace it. It is stripped to the walls out there.
  20. Yes, but the 7.62x39 does better as well.
  21. My guess is that it has to do with jacket material, bullet design (or lack thereof), and surface area. Most .308 rounds aren't that engineered because the terminal ballistics are more forgiving. For example, you will see people into that sort of thing for procurement purposes worry about any kind of ballistic tipped .223 bullet, but they are fine recommending most .308 bullets, including ones engineered similarly to the .223 varmint rounds. THe main concern with .223 is that at velocities .223 tends to be loaded to, those bullets penetrate 8-10" and go poof inside the target. THey want 12" penetration minimum. With the .308 bullets, they don't give them a hard time because when they go poof, they still leave at least a couple fragments capable ot making it to 12" while leaving at least a minimal permanent wound channel. Same with barrier blind rounds. .308 they mostly don't care. Yeah, some are better, but even run of the mill stuff tends to leave something a decent size going a decent speed ot impact a target rather than just fragmenting into shrapnel that doesn't do enough damage. SOmething like a tree's worth of live wood is going to grab on and resist unlike a lot of other things that deform and shatter, so no free ride. The end result is that 5.56 has been designed with having to pick one or the other, and they chose barrier penetration. Much thicker jackets, higher velocity, smaller frontal area, and less total surface area for the fibers to grab onto. As for the russian stuff, I'm going to guess that the copper washed steel jackets make the difference. The steel is tougher than you would think, and the copper wash probably acts as a lubricating agent if it comes into play at all.
  22. There are two main important things that being precise takes care of that can be problems. 1st, you don't want the pillars set forward at all because then the lug isn't taking up the recoil, but the screws are. 2nd, you don't want the screws angled, because what strain they do take gets concentrated. Both of the above can wind up with screws snapped off in the action.
  23. Check again. A month ago you could get stuff. Then the small rifle primers went, then small pistol. Large rifle and pistol were available until a week or so ago. Powder has been less of an issue, but popular ones are out of stock. It's pretty much shotgun primers out there now. If powder starts getting generally scarce, we are at record levels of demand.
  24. Last AWB, if you didn't build the lower up before the ban to be a pre-band config, you were in theory breaking the law if you did so after the ban. How anyone went about proving such a thing either way was never really clear to me.

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