Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

New Jersey Gun Forums

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

High Exposure

Premier Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by High Exposure

  1. Pat's classes closest to NJ this year are in WV. It is worth the drive and hotel to attend.
  2. I can almost guarantee that the M&P series is not designed to do it. Being a lightweight polymer framed gun, it is just more susceptible to it happening as it is easier to create the amount of force needed for inertia to move the sidle back a fraction of an inch and release the slide lock lever. Glocks are also notorious for this. You can really "auto-forward" the slide on any semi-auto pistol if you insert a mag with at least one round in it the right way, although it is much easier with a Polymer framed gun. This won't work with an empty mag as the mag spring pressing on the mag follower will prevent the slide release from dropping out of the way. Hold the gun oriented with a 45 degree muzzle up and when you insert the mag you need to hit the frame directly behind the magazine. You may need to hit it fairly hard, but it will go. When you smack the bottom of the pistol at just the correct angle when seating a loaded mag 2 things happen simultaneously: 1) The slide moves to the rear a fraction of an inch. This takes pressure off the slide lock lever and 2) Once the tension is off the slide lock, the spring that keeps the slide lock down against the frame and prevents it from locking the slide back on every shot does its job and pulls the slide lock/release lever down allowing the slide to go home. I know using the slide release or slingshotting the slide to avoid an auto forward that it may take a fraction of a second longer to complete my reload, but that fraction of a second will seem lightning fast compared to a multi-second immediate action drill when you try to fire an empty chamber. I agree 100% with knowing your gun and how it works and how it feels when it doesn't work. I don't agree with relying to look at it to diagnose an issue. I work nights, it is not so easy to visually diagnose a malfunction by looking at it at 0 dark thirty. I just go into immediate action (move to a position of advantage, tap or push/pull, roll/rack, assess). If that doesn't do it, then remedial action is out into action (lock the slide/bolt back, rip mag out, rack, reload). I do understand big-boy rules apply and if I can use vision to assist clearing a malfunction I will, I just don't count on it. That being said, there are different circumstances at play here between what Vlad and I are doing with our guns. Depending on your circumstances, either can be correct.
  3. I don't like relying on auto-forwarding. In fact, I train to avoid it - by holding the gun with the barrel pointy slightly further up and rolling the wrist slightly outboard, you an eliminate the auto-forward and I use the slide release, instead of slingshotting/power-stroking/etc... all with no issues. If you are planning to take advantage of the auto-forward, practice running the slide. I have heard too many clicks, when a bang was required, following an auto-forward to trust it. At least by running the slide afterwards, and seeing that round get jacked out, you know it is loaded. It's faster in a reload than press checking or looking for the LCI. Personally, knowing the gun is charged is worth more than 1 bullet.
  4. Good enough for me. I don't care what Golf Battery says about you Blake, you are OK in my book!
  5. Mine came today as well. New T1 for me!
  6. You can get a complete TROY upper For $529 at Primary Arms. 16" midlength barrel with low-profile gas block 13" free float tube (either an Alpha or MLOK) BCG Charging Handle TROY BUIS Choice of Black or FDE Alpha Tube:http://www.primaryarms.com/supr-bf1-16ft-00/p/supr-bf1-16ft-00/ MLOK Tube:http://www.primaryarms.com/troy-industries-16-556-upper-w-13-m-lok-rail-and-flip-sights/p/supr-bf1-16bt-00-m/ If you bought the parts seperately you'd pay: - BCG ~ $150 - Alpha Tube with integral front sight ~ $280 - Troy BUIS ~ $180 You are basically getting the upper receiver, barrel, gas block, gas tube, charging handle, flash hider (which does need to be replaced with a brake/comp) for free. And it is all assembled. Once you receive it all you need to do is swap the FH for the brake of your choice and slap it on lower. It's the best value in an upper I have seen. You can also sometimes find them during sales for Black Friday, Memorial Day, Labor Day, etc... for ~ $450
  7. Understood and agree. I'm just thinking if it's a new hobby, and to start you are only shooting local matches (100 yard range), get a quality RDS now and pick up a good variable power scope down the road if necessary.
  8. Your rifle, your call.... At 15 yards you are dealing with holdovers to compensate for mechanical offset. That can't be fun or easy at 4x. At 15 yards you should be able to stack your rounds into the same hole, let alone hit a small target like a "zombie eye" without magnification. What's your field of view at 15 yards and 4x mag? Must be a stone cold bitch to scan for more targets or track something moving at closer than 100 yards.... Also, how long does it take to adjust your scope to make a clear target at close distance? How much time are you spending fiddling with the scope vs shooting? Threats that close don't often lend themselves to wasted time - whether in a competition or in real life. Seems there are better ways to do all of that? With a 50 yard zero your point of impact is only +/- 3" off from point of aim from 0 yards to about ~215 yards (depending on barrel and round) with either iron sights or a RDS.
  9. ??? Why would you want that?
  10. I have a Vortex Strike Eagle. For the $$ it is pretty stellar and Vortex is an excellent company to deal with. Like mentioned above though, don't forget to factor in the $ and weight of the mount. It all adds up quickly. I think the ADM mount I picked up (Recon-X) cost almost 50% of what I paid for the Strike Eagle optic itself.
  11. If you read back through this forum, I never claimed EOTurds were quality. In fact I said the exact opposite, loudly and as often as possible. You can lead a horse to water.... ETA: That being said, when EOTech was notified they got caught screwing the pooch - they showed character and offered refunds. Personally I find that impressive and refreshing in this day and age. Even if the optic disappointed, the company did not, and you got your $$ back to buy something else.
  12. As you learned with your Barska - buy once, cry once. If you still had the $$ you spent on the Barska, you could afford more than a ~$350 optic. Save up some more dough and buy quality gear. It never disappoints.
  13. Vlad, werent we shooting 4" steel poppers at 100 yards at the OBRPC 3-Gun match last year? I did fine with just an Aimpoint T1 on that stage.
  14. Fixed it for you. Sorry, pedantic I know, but it is a pet peeve.
  15. Numbering helps you keep track of your gear administratively, has nothing to do with combat.
  16. You will really only notice the benefits of a free floating rail if: - You are mounting a laser to it - You often shoot longer distances bracing the forend on a rest/barricade/sandbag or you use a bipod - You have a two point sling mounted to the fore end and you really yank on the sling for stability It doesn't change the barrel or trigger - these two things have the most impact on accuracy after the shooter's ability.
  17. True. But the .22 "trainers" were all the rage a few years ago (their popularity caused the market to flood with new makers/models) because .22LR was plentiful and cheap when .223/5.56 was not. If they don't get .22 back to "good 'ol days" in both pricing and availability, I think the bottom is going to completely fall out.
  18. Mine runs well as long as I use nothing lighter than 40gr. It eats lead nose and copper jacketed stuff just fine. Mine is 4 years old though, and hasn't had much use the last couple years since .22 prices and availability went full retard. If you search, you will find plenty of threads outlining the rifles sensitivity to ammo.
  19. ^^^ This. Read the bold portion twice. Much wisdom there. If you are planning on having one gun and all you are doing is putting a white light and sling on it the Magpul MOE Handguards are perfect and very affordable. Here's my house gun: It will do everything I could ever need it to do, whether in class or in defense of my family.

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.