High Exposure

Fucker No, but a combination of XL padded safety gloves and the fact that my hands are the same size as a 12 year old Swedish Girl made the slide release lever a no-go. So it was slingshot technique for me all three days.

Right, I forgot about those. They attach to the upper receiver by clamping on to the flat top rail. There is an ARMS rail that does that too (the SIR I think?) but it is heavy, expensive, and gets loose.

This is true. However if you are accustomed to the speed at which violence occurs, and if you practice it, you can talk to people in Yellow, give directions, make a joke, etc... and the person you are talking to will never know. As LE, you also often have a partner that watches while you talk.

As a point of reference: I just attended a three day "Train the Trainer" course for Active Shooter Reaponse up at Morris Acounty Police Academy. Three days of pretty intense Force in Force training with Simunitions. The sims guns issued to us - Beretta 92. As it was force on force, we had to wear gloves (everyone fixates on the gun and rounds to the hands are the most common hits). Three times I inadvertently swiped the slide mounted safety to the on position while reloading my pistol and ended up being shot. No DA/SA pistols, and no external safeties for me please.

Umbrella Corp. Billet Lower ~ $300-$350And it won't do everything I want it to. Stag lower ~ $130-$140 Or I could go Anderson and get a lower for ~$80 BAD Lever ~ $27-$30 And it does everything I want. I could get two Stag lowers and 2 BAD levers for the cost of one Umbrella Corp lower.

That's awesome!

Slightly over budget but you will be quite happy. You can get a complete TROY upper: 16" midlength barrel with low-profile gas block 13" free float tube (either an Alpha or MLOK) BCG Charging Handle TROY BUIS Choice of Black or FDE For $529 at Primary Arms. Alpha Tube: http://www.primaryarms.com/supr-bf1-16ft-00/p/supr-bf1-16ft-00/ MLOK Tube: http://www.primaryarms.com/troy-industries-16-556-upper-w-13-m-lok-rail-and-flip-sights/p/supr-bf1-16bt-00-m/ If you bought the parts seperately you'd pay: - BCG ~ $150 - Alpha Tube with integral front sight ~ $280 - Troy BUIS ~ $180 You are basically getting the upper receiver, barrel, gas block, gas tube, charging handle, flash hider (which does need to be replaced with a brake/comp) for free. And it is all assembled. Once you receive it all you need to do is swap the FH for the brake of your choice and slap it on lower. It's the best value in an upper I have seen. You can also sometimes find them during sales for Black Friday, Memorial Day, Labor Day, etc... for ~ $450.

Some parts were bought with the intent of upgrading an existing rifle down the road. Lowers were bought to squirrel away for a rainy day. Some stuff was bought on sale just because the price was right. Some parts were jockeyed from other rifles to make a gun suitable for a noob to run in a beginner carbine class. The best part is, all I need is a barrel and I can build another it is. It really, really, is! And I still have PRO and an RMR in there. The Vortex StrikeEagle freed the T1 up from another rifle. :D As to the BAD lever: I like it, although I know a lot of folks don't. It is lightning fast during reloads, but I feel it shines most by being able to lock the bolt back - either administratively or when clearing a malfunction -without doing the funky hand-jive shuffle. Whether or not it's worth it? That's completely subjective. It works as advertised - if you are comfortable adjusting the manual of arms to incorporate the BAD and creating the procedural memory to go with it. I will tell you this - If you put a BAD lever on one gun, you need to put it on all of them because once you are used to it you will attempt to use it whether the rifle in your hands is equipped with one or not.

My NODS are nice. Clear gen 3+ and I added a Wilcox Amber filter to help with the "Green-ache" from wearing them too long. I'm jealous of your dual tube set up though. Ok, To get us back on the "AR pics, let's see'um" track: I took my three Brothers-in-Law to a beginner AR class last Saturday (Sights & Triggers). They had never fired an AR and 2 of them are not gun owners, one is a very new pistol owner. None were anti-gun, but they weren't really pro gun either. Recently they began asking me questions about firearms in general and then specifically about NJ Gun Laws and getting an FID. So I figured, let's go shoot and get them hooked! I signed us all up for Signts and Triggers Beginner Carbine Class and provided everything for the four of us: Rifles, pistols, mags, pouches, holsters, ammo, and eye and ear pro. The class was well run and they had fun while learning a thing or two - despite the snow and rain we had all day. Joe did a great job with 3 brand new shooters in the class. S&T is highly recomended! Since the class, one has already applied for his FID, the other is in negotiations with the wife and it is looking good! Anyway, I needed an extra AR as I was providing the equipment for everyone. So.... I built this carbine out of some parts I had on hand in the bin* : - Stag Lower - MWPX ALG ACT LPK - Battle Arms ambi selector - Battle Arms takedown pin - Oversized aluminum trigger guard - BCM GF Grip - BCM receiver extension kit - BCM QD receiver end plate - BCM upper - BCM Mod 4 Charging Handle - BCM BCG - BCM low-pro gas block - DD CHF barrel (carbine length) - ALG EMR V2 MLOK 13" tube - Magpul BAD Lever - Magpul MLOK handstop - Magpul MLOK type 1 & 2 covers - Magpul front sling mount for paraclip - Magpul CTR stock with enhanced pad - Magpul MS1 sling with rear QD & front paraclip - Troy BUIS set front and back - AimPoint T1 w/iO cover in DD tall mount - Surefire "Furious" Scout in Arisaka Inline MLOK mount - Surefire 556 brake w/Warden* Carbine ran like a sewing machine and it is very lightweight and fast shooting. 297 rounds fired in class without a hiccup. To say I am pleased is an understatement. This may very well be my new favorite carbine. The only thing I would have done differently is I would have liked to have used a lightweight mid-length barrel. * Surefire brake and warden were bought after the fact.

It gets crazy expensive! You can drop thousands of dollars on just the Rhino mount and another $1k on just the helmet plate - and you haven't even gotten to the actual NOD or helmet.

I'm lucky - mine is issued from work. I could never justify dropping that much dough on them.

The tube touches only the barrel nut. The tube is not touching the barrel. The tube is not touching anything that is touching the barrel. The tube is not touching anything that is touching anything else that is touching the barrel. How is that not free floating? What's wrong with the standard barrel nut? Let the OP decide what is a moot point. He may want a free float tube that doesn't require swapping the barrel nut or removing the delta ring. If so, the DD Omega checks every box on his list of requirements.

The end cap stays put. The rail stops a CH before it. Here you can see the gap between the rail and end cap, with the barrel and gas tube. If you want to, you could cut it off with tin snips or a Dremel, but if you need it to remain "unmodified" you can just leave it as is. If I am issued a new rifle tomorrow, I can have this one back in the condition is was issued to me (standard handguatds, carry handle on the flat top upper, A2 grip, Colt carbine stock) in about 10 minutes, and catch no flack from admin for an "altered weapon".

I just want depth perception. My neck gets tired moving my head back and forth and all around all night with all that extra weight on it.

I have a PVS-14. I want a dual tube/ANVIS set up so badly....

Incorrect. The DD Omega 7 and Omega 9 rails are fully free floating. https://danieldefense.com/rail-systems/omega-rail/omega-rail-7-0-carbine.html They are a 2 piece design that clamps directly to the barrel nut and are held fast with four set screws, all without the need to remove the delta ring. They rails stop just short of the end cap so nothing has to be removed or altered. If I remember correctly, they were designed to provide a free float fore-end on a rifle that, by policy, could have no permanent alterations - many LE and .gov agencies have this policy.

You are probably better served with a longer rail. Also, with the light that far forward, it is gonna take a beating next to the Battlecomp. Unity Tactical makes good stuff!

Why do you want it that far forward?

The magnifier and the optic should both fit in the upper receiver without having to move out to the rail. Don't compromise your primary optics effectiveness and reliability in order to facilitate the use of a piece of ancillary equipment.

:rofl:

It's going to cost you to repair either way. If it is not something simple - like a loose barrel nut - and you are thinking about swapping out parts I would contact them and send it back. They probably know exactly what the issue is. Their warranty sounds good, and I have not heard anything bad about them. http://www.alexanderarms.com/products/terms

Daniel Defense Omega 7 or Omega 9. Pricey but worth every penny. I have one on my work gun (DD Omega 7 - for carbine length gas systems) and just took one off a midlength (DD Omega 9). Low pro gas block on your AR? If so, you can Dremel the delta ring off (takes all of 3 minutes if you go slow and careful) and use a Troy or Samson FF Tube on it as they use a standard barrel nut. Now, about that optic placement.... Do not mount it to the rail over your barrel. It should be mounted to the upper receiver above the ejection port. Mounting it in the FF rail defeats the purpose of the free float. The optic is mounted to the upper receiver. The barrel is mounted to the upper receiver. They stay aligned regardless of what happens to ge rail because the rail does not touch the barrel. If the rail rests on something, it doesn't move the barrel or the optic. Look at every AR photo posted here. They all have the optics in the same place. Over the center of balance of the rifle, not over the hot barrel, not on a rail which *could* move on you throwing off your zero/aim. Here is my issued work gun with the DD Omega 7 on it: Note the position of the optic - on the upper receiver, above the magazine and ejection port at the center of balance of the rifle.

Did you buy the upper complete or assemble it yourself? If bought, I would contact the company and see if it is under warranty before you WECSOG it and void their terms. If you assembled it, check the barrel nut and make sure it is tight and torqued properly. Did you chrono the ammo? Could be inconsistant loads. Was it just today (beautiful day to be at the range) or has this been happening for a while?

Gun grab attacks are often averted by carrying concealed so the bad guys don't know you have a gun. Gun grab attacks are often averted by carrying you pistol in a quality retention holster. Gun grab attacks are often averted by training in weapons retention techniques. Gun grab attacks are often averted by paying attention to your surroundings.

The long and short of it is really simple - There are many psychological reasons why people place their fingers on the triggers - especially in low light. None of them are acceptable, but they happen, often unconsciously and need to be trained away. On top of that, an average human can exert a little over 30lbs of pressure with their trigger finger during a startle response or postural disturbance. Even more with deliberate thought as in a sympathetic reflex. Until you put 35lb triggers on all guns there will be NDs. Then of course, the guns will be un-shootable with those God awful triggers. Those heavy 12lb NY triggers do nothing to make the guns "safer" or prevent NDs, they just make them harder to shoot accurately.