High Exposure

He's probably training for the movie, not shooting a match. In the real world "downrange" changes and you don't dump your long gun in a bin and pick up your pistol - you sling it (engaging the safety if appropriate) and transition from the big gun to the little gun and back again as needed. He is probably working on making that look natural for the film.

That single round shotgun reload at ~24 seconds was tits! There is another video where he scores/times for Jessica Hook: And here wath Taran Butler: Looks like all the same day. John Wick was good. I am glad they are making a sequal.

What wasn't a crack. I love that shit!

Yeager and Tactical Response latest and greatest: https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1168813

Wow. Some esoteric minutiae posted here. OP, I think any quality barrel optimized for the load you want to shoot will work fine. A good trigger and some nice glass and you are on your way. Don't get hung up on the acronyms: SPR is a rifle that meets a certain spec for the Navy and used in the DM role. DMR is whatever rifle the squad DM uses. Could be an M14, an M16 variant like the SPR, a SCAR-H, a HK417, etc... Both are used to effectively engage targets at intermediate distances - you don't need a trained sniper, but it's a little further than a rifleman with an M4 can handle effectively. We are not face shooting haji (unfortunately) so terms like SPR/DMR are more for what distance you are planning to shoot than what the rifle actually looks like.

Well, in that case, I don't know what to tell you. Shop someplace else maybe? You think PDs keep a log of who buys armor? C'mon. It's a good conduct letter, it can be for many things, not just buying armor. Anyway... It also looks like an IL FID card works, I bet a NJ FID card would as well.

http://www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/69120-defensive-firearm-use/page-5#entry1026575

There is an "or" there You can use the linked .pdf for a good conduct letter from your local PD.

Well shit... That must be new. They recently had a smoking sale on plates and they only required a notarized form, no LEO or .mil creds. Sorry about that. Doing a little research and found that SKD is running a nice sale on their site (their hard armor is made by Tencate which by all accounts makes a solid product). http://www.skdtac.com/SKD-Armor-10-x-12-Level-IV-Stand-Alone-Plate-p/amr.905.htm Their Armor sales policy is good to go as well for non Leo/mil - http://www.skdtac.com/skd_tactical_body_armor_policy_a/165.htm

Me too - but I am not sure if it matters. He does go on to exain that it is representative of all the steel armor he has shot as the failures are the same - that is enough for me to say "no thanks" to AR500/steel armor. We issue 10x12 level III+ ICW triple curve ceramic plates wrapped in PE - kind of a best of both worlds. Our primary threat is the ammo in our guns, we know that ammo will be on every call so we made sure our armor will stop that round first (Federal TRU 64gr soft nose). After that its 7.62x39ap and M855. We tested them and we're pleased with their performance.

Geissele is good to go for everything. Buy with confidence Rob. If his MLOK tube is half as good as his wife's ALG EMR tube you won't be disappointed. Picked up a 13" ALG EMR v2 and I absolutely love it.

I also like the banshee. For the price its hard to beat the quality.

Here is a 2013 independent test he did on 1/4" steel armor. He doesn't say what brand, and its a couple years old, but I do find it interesting.http://www.m4carbine.net/archive/index.php/t-133162.html Looking at the above data, I find it interesting that only 200fps made the difference between penetration and stopping. That is a variable that could be easily adjusted with a couple inches of barrel or a few yards closer to a target. The biggest problem to overcome vs M193 is its significantly higher velocity and its simple construction. This gives it more "punch" - unlike M855 where its three part construction causes the bullet to break apart on steel and glass. My understanding is that when shooting steel with M193 there is occasionally an armor failure where its solid construction and higher velocity can cause a "plug" of the actual steel armor to be punched through the material along with parts of the projectile. Now, keep in mind - if you don't think M193, 7.62x51 or M2AP is a significant threat in your AO, the steel should be fine.

For testing of current plates yeah, it's a bit dated. However, it is an excellent primer to get an idea of material properties and what stops what, as well as what to look for, or not, in a plate. It also gives a decent laymen's explaination of NIJ ratings aand test protocols.

Also, this is an excellent write up by arguably the most knowledgable "armor guy" out there Dr Gary Roberts (screen name DocGKR): http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?32839-Level-III-Patrol-Armor-Test He conducts independant ballistics test on hard and soft armor and he is constantly updating this info, so read it all the way through.

The first thing you need to understand is the "science" behind body armor is really black magic and armor companies are worse than used car salesmen. They lie, manipulate data, and will sell you gear you don't need at exorbitant prices. You need to make every attempt to verify any manufacturer's claims via independant testing. NIJ ratings are a good starting point, but aren't a necessity of you know exactly what kind of protection you want and are savvy enough to know what materials stop what rounds. Some very reputable companies eschew expensive NIJ testing protocols in order to keep their prices lower. You need to determine what the most common threats in your area you will face. Are you worried about Bubba with grandpas hunting rifle, Rufus and his 7.62x39, Ivan's 5.45x39 or Rambos 5.56. Are you more likely to see Military M855 in a 16" barrel AR or some 44gr varmint rounds in a 20" barrel. Different material plates stop different rounds - HDPE Ceramic AR500 Boron or Silica carbide Or a hybrid Each material also has different maintenance requirements as well. For example: ceramic plates need to be X-rayed from time to time to make sure they have no cracks or faults that would compromise their ability to protect you. Do you want standalone (SA) or In Conjunction (ICW) plates? I prefer ICW plates. The soft armor behind the plate just makes me feel better. I would avoid AR500 armor at all costs. Yes, they are usually cheaper but you will be much better served by spending a bit more and getting something designed to protect you vs something designed to be a target. They are extremely heavy, they don't fare will against light and fast rounds, they wear out your carrier quickly, and spall is a very real concern whether you have an anti spall wrap/coating or not. Make sure you look at this .pdf so you can figure out what size and cut of plate you want and what carrier will serve you best: http://sixty-six.org/x_drive/proper_wear_of_armor.pdf Velocity Systems is where I would start my search: http://www.velsyst.com/store/236/0/ARMOR---Hard-Armor.html They are the most honest and well regarded armor company I know of and will sell to non LEO non .Gov personnel. Next would be AMI: http://armoredmobility.com Third choice would be Point Blank/Paraclete, but they can be tough to get to sell to non .gov/LEO buyers.

Wikkie, Where is the training?

The answer is "Yes".

Without having hands on and going only via info at the website - it looks gimmicky to me. It appears clunky and you still have to line things up. You want a wider field of view? Simple - open both eyes.

Mine was a LoneWolf G35 slide.

I'll second this! Mark did mine as well. Reasonable price, excellent Comms, quick turn around time and an outstanding product!

I have the 13" EMR V2 on my .40 carbine and I love it. It will be my go to rail for all future rifle builds. If it used a standard barrel nut I would put it on every AR I owned. Here it is with an Arisaka Light mount, MBUS, Magpul sling mount and a Magpul handstop: Quality gear and very affordable when compared to similar MLOK/Keymod free float tubes.

That's the point.

Here ya go: http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/barrel-parts/barrels/1911-xact-fit-barrel-kit-prod7611.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=KART+PRECISION+BARREL