High Exposure

I don't think he means it won't fit in the magwell or that he is having a hard sliding it through the magwell. I think he means he has to really push it hard to get it to seat or "click" in who the mag catch holds it. I have seen that with brand new Glock mags loaded all the way up.

He said "fighting gun" not "gun that was used in a war". Thousands of Cops and CCW holders carry a Glock 23 everyday and for the same reasons - to save their lives or the life of another in the event they are in a FIGHT. How is it not a fighting gun? I don't have any real stats handy but I would bet that there are more G23's out there carried as a gun to be used in a fight then the Army has M9s. That being said, my pick for best fighting handgun is Glock of any flavor: Reliable, Simple to use, simple to maintain, simple to fix yourself, accurate enough, decent capacity, ability to add white light, all in "service calibers" (unless you have one of the .380 Glocks that aren't imported into the US), and affordable.

But apparently not for shooting! I don't care what it says on his shirt, that guy doesn't know how to shoot a pistol

I guarantee he is "auto forwarding". I see brand new shooters that have never touched a gun in there lives make Glocks auto forward all the time. It isn't some super secret high-speed deltaninjasealranger trick that anyone need to be taught. They are trying so had to seat that mag that they slap the pistol so sharply the slide goes home. Look at what he wrote, he starts by saying that the mags are hard to seat, so you know he is hitting the crap out of the bottom of the mag. I see ot so often that sometimes I think it is harder to teach my new shooters how not to do it than it would be to show them how. I have never had to send a Glock back. I assume you pay the shipping costs at least one way. If you ship them a pistol and they find nothing wrong with it does the warranty still cover their time, labor, and effort?

If it is for around the house carry where there is much less scrutiny of your concealment, why are you limiting yourself to a "compact"? You can easily conceal a full size gun and I guarantee you will be able to shoot it better than any compact. I conceal a G35 with white light and RDS mounted in an IWB holster daily while off duty with ease and comfort. Concealment is easy and I go everywhere with this setup.

If the OP sends his pistol back for this he is just wasting money. It is 100% normal and happens because of inertia. When you smack the bottom of the pistol at the correct angle when seating a loaded mag 2 things happen simultaneously: 1) The slide moves to the rear a fraction of an inch. This takes pressure off the slide lock lever and 2) Once the tension is off the slide lock, the spring that keeps the slide lock down against the frame and prevents it from locking the slide back on every shot does its job and pulls the slide lock lever down allowing the slide to go home. The only way to prevent this from an engineering standpoint is to lighten the slide so much that there is not enough mass for inertia to work on it or change the strength of the recoil spring to be so strong that the slide won't move to the rear when the pistol is hit. The other way to prevent it is to seat the mags squarely from the bottom and avoid hitting the grip at an angle from the rear when loading. As far as downloading to save the springs or relax the springs is a myth. Modern springs lose their "strength" by cycling. Keeping a mag fully loaded, partially loaded, or completely empty makes no difference. Cycles of loading and then unloading are what weakens springs over time. Unless you move a spring past its elastic limit - either by over-compressing or stretching - you have nothing to worry about when leaving a mag fully loaded, a hammer cocked, or a slide locked to the rear.

A 1911 isn't a combat pistol?

You are going to need to try it with a loaded mag (use snap caps or empty brass if you are not at the range). It won't work with an empty mag because of the built in slide lock feature. Hold the gun with a 45 degree muzzle up and when you insert the mag you need to hit where the grip plug fills in the hollow at the bottom of the grip. You may need to hit it fairly hard, but it will go.

In my experience, people who fear a "cocked and locked" 1911 are either uninformed or uncomfortable with their gun handling skills. Having a 1911 in condition 1 is no different then having an AR or 870 in the same condition. The hammer is cocked and the safety is on. There is no way to "decock" an AR or 870 short of pulling the trigger. Striker fired pistols like the S&W M&P and Springfield XD that are 80%-90% pre-cocked are the same. If something inside fails and the striker is released, it will discharge. How many times have you heard of this happening? ARs and the Rem 870 pattern shotgun are probably the most plentiful long guns in the US, with 1911s and Glocks (another pre-cocked striker fired handgun with no decocker or safety) being the most prolific pistols I know of. we rarely hear about them discharging on their own, but very time one goes off "accidentally" (read negligently) we know what really happened - someone pressed the trigger. That is because safeties don't just "fail" and even if they do, they will not discharge unless you pull the trigger. (This is where the distinction of finger "on" and finger "off" the trigger can really be important ) As far as the trigger on a condition 1 1911 being sensitive, the solution is the same as it is for any other firearm in existence - keep your booger picker off the bang switch until you are ready and justified to fire. If you can't follow that rule all the safeties, decockers and heavy triggers in the world can't help you. Also, as an FYI - I have seen more NDs with pistols equipped with decockers than any other handguns with DA revolvers being second. Trigger weight, safeties, decockers aren't the answer. You need to tighten the loose nut behind the trigger to fix it. Never ever thumb down a 1911 on a hot chamber. Baaaaad ju-ju. You have now deactivated any other internal safety (drop or firing pin) and if dropped or hit the weapon will discharge.

I have never had a problem seating fully loaded Glock mags new or otherwise regardless if the slide was forward or not. Be aggressive - go flat to flat (flat back of mag to the flat rear of magwell) and and send that mag home with a single firm push. Do not seat the mag in the magwell and then slap the bottom of the mag.

jrfly3006, Check this thread: http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/57841-glock-triggers-how-they-work-and-how-to-make-them-better/ Also, I have a Glocktriggers Guardian Trigger and like it a lot. Additionally, it is all Glock OEM parts. http://www.glocktriggers.com/products/guardian/

What about ARs and 870s then? They are essentially single action and have no decocker? Or any of the striker fired pistols that are 80%-90% pre-cocked (M&P, XD)?

You can "auto-forward" the slide on any semi-auto pistol if you insert the mag the right way, although it is much easier with a Glock. It is common and not an issue with the gun. I know some shooters that like that "feature" and train to do it all the time. Personally I don't. I like to know that the mag is fully seated before sending the slide home. It may take a fraction of a second longer to complete my reload, but I have seen the slide go home before the mag is seated loading an empty chamber and would rather avoid that. That fraction of a second will seem lightning fast compared to a multisecond malfunction drill when you try to fire an empty chamber

What makes a pistol with a decocker safer than a 1911 with a safety? What about Glocks, M&Ps, XDs, or any other striker fired pistol?

Looking at that part a little more it looks well made and thought out. I also like the rear attachment point as it makes switching shoulders with a 2 point sling a lot easier. I may have to get one to try out.

I use a modified version of the c-clamp as well, where it is not quite as exaggerated as some teach. I have found that while it is a great shooting position, it flat out sucks as a search position. And to date, I do a lot more looking for bad guys than I do shooting them. I use a vertical grip as a reference point and grab the handguards without wrapping my thumb all the way over the top. The bottom of my palm and my pinky and maybe a little but of my ring finger are all that grab the vertical grip. The big difference is that I don't reach out quite as far. I split the difference so I can still drive the gun, but it is not as fatiguing to hang on to the rifle in a useful ready position while searching. It is great in a shooting class where you are being timed and graded. Where every drill is a shoot drill with multiple targets and many rounds. Where you start each drill from a relaxed ready position and on the fire stimulus you immediately aim in and start pressing the trigger. This all reinforcemes that this shooting style is the cat's pajamas on the firing line, but you find that it comes back to bite you in real world use. Very few problems out there have "shoot solutions" and you spend an inordinately longer time holding the rifle while searching and waiting than you do conducting failure drills, box drills, El Presidente's, Bill drills, and NSRs. The magwell grip is terrible for a lot of reasons. First being if you have an issue and get a KB that is where a lot of that energy is gong to vent. If your hand is ther you will be having a very bad day. Like you blksheep, the other reason why I don't like it is you have much less control over the muzzle as you are holding the rifle at its center of balance. The gun wants to wobble and continue moving regardless of where you are trying to stop it. This is very noticeable when driving the gun from target to target and from shooting from a standing off-hand position at distances greater than 100 yards.

The really nice feature about using a replacement sling plate instead of a bolt on doesn't apply on NJ. With the bolt on type sling mount you can not collapse the stock fully. With the plate, you still get the full range of stock adjustment options. Also, the downside to the wrench is if your castle nut is staked, you may have a bitch of a time removing it without a vice block, which is another $40-$60. You also need to be careful to not lose/break the takedown pin spring that is back there. Then when you put it all back together you should be torquing it correctly when replacing the castle nut, and then you need to re-stake it.

Decent article deconstructing the relatively "new" (While this style was recently made popular again by the "Chris and Travis Show" at Magpul Dynamics, I have seen this in photos from HK classes in the late '80s as well as in photos of fighting in Rhodesia in the '70s) extended C-Clamp shooting method. While I don't agree with everything in the article, some very salient points are brought up. The comments at the end of the article are also worth reading as are some of the links provided. http://loadoutroom.com/5695/the-over-exaggerated-c-clamp-grip-hype-or-not/

John, that's the exact part he posted Try to keep up old timer ETA: Before anyone gets upset, John and I are cool and he knows I am just bustin' on him.

If you are going to spend $$ like that look here: http://www.skdtac.com/TangoDown-Sling-Mount-PR4-Ambi-QD-p/tng.207.htm The PR4 is my preferred "clamp on" style attachment point. Here is a other slightly cheaper option that I like and works very well: http://www.skdtac.com/Midwest-Heavy-Duty-Sling-Adaptor-p/mid.306.htm Plus SKD has a 10% off sale going on now.

I have the LCP and the PM9. The Kahr is definitely bigger that the Ruger where it counts. It is very shootable with the flush mounted 6 round mag and with a 7 round extended mag (I carry these as a reload) it is just about perfect for me. It also has a much better trigger and sights than the LCP. I have many rounds through both and have no hesitation recommending the PM9. It is a sweet little gun that shoots very well and my example has been very, very, reliable. They are priced high but with a little work you can find themcheaper (I bought mine for $350 in brand new condition). I have no first hand experience with the more affordable CM9. That being said, I have friends with the S&W Shield. That is a nice little 9mm. I probably would have gotten one if it was available when I got the Kahr. The thumb safety option is nice for pocket carry and it is significantly cheaper if buying new.

^^^This. Also look at your reload times. How fast can you put 7 fresh ones into your Kahr vs how fast you can plug 5 into your LCR. Additionally, which is it easier to carry reloads for? I carry a Kahr PM9 as a BUG off duty and as a second BUG on duty.

I got one of those IWC tri-glide sockets when they first came out and put it in my BFG VCAS. It works very well for its intended purpose, making a quick adjust 2-point into a single point. The thing is, other than dry fire training on my own when I decide I want to try things (building positions, working around cover, going hands on, shooting a rifle with one hand, transitions, clearing malfinctions) with a single point sling I have never used it. When I have tried it out at home, I quuickly realized that I am right back to having all the disadvantages of a single point. I also noticed that by the time I have unplugged the front quick disconnect and fit it into the socket for the IWC single point adapter, I could have simply opened/loosened the 2 point sling and completed my desired task in much less time. I also realized that I have never switched from 2 point to single point mode in any training environment - square range, shoothouse, combatives, sims, medical/first aid, arrest/transport, air assault, rappelling, or driving. Even with the option of going to a single point sling, the 2 point has always gotten the job down with more control, more accuracy, and more comfort. It's funny though, even though I feel this way, I keep the adapter on my sling... Because, hey, you never know right. I may find myself in a situation where that thing really shines, or is the only answer to the issue at hand.

With the Magpul HG I really like the IWC option: http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/rotation-limited-quick-detach-sling/ If you have Midlength HGs which don't have a slot close to the receiver you can drill/cut your own (that's what I did) or you could try this: http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-micro-installed-by-iwc-in-your-moe-hand-guard/ Another option is to use the MOE Sling attachment point: (http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG504/51) and cut the clips off of a Magpul MS3 sling. I did that for 2 setups. I hated the MS3 I had but really liked the attachment method. So I cut them off and put them on 2 BFG VCAS Slings using the ASAP plate for the rear and the sling moint linked above for the front. Works like a charm!

Sling selection: Avoid 3 point sling like a male prostitue with AIDS and a chloroform soaked rag. They are beyond useless. Single point slings - They are not the end of the world and you can run them if you have to, but they leave a lot to be desired. They flop around when released smacking you in the groin (read balls), They offer no additional stabilization when shooting, and they move around making it difficult to retrieve the rifle after being released. And you can forget taking a knee or bending over to pick something up, your barrel becomes an instant lawn dart. The only place where they really shine is switching shoulders. It is a nice ability to have but other slings allow it too and without all the negatives. 2-point slings - the basic 2 point sling makes a decent carry strap, but is a horrible "fighting" sling. With a little ingenuity and elbow grease you can modify them to work, but the juice just isn't worth the squeeze. Now, the Modern 2-point Quick Adjust sling - like the BFG BCAS or the VTAC - is where it's at. I have both types but I prefer the BFG VCAS as it has no loose running end. The downside to that being that it offers less inherent adjustment in the system. The Quick Adjust 2 Point slings have all the advantages of a two point sling - holds the rifle close/tight to the body when released, doesn't flop around when moving with a slung rifle, offers adjustable stability while shooting, and still gives the shooter the ability to switch shoulders quickly and easily like a single point system. Win - Win - Win. Attachment points: Getting the sling attachment points as close to the receiver as possible on both ends will set you up for success. You can use a Tangodown PR4, a Burnsed Loop, a MI Sling plate, a Magpul ASAP, whatever you like, that puts the sling as close to where the receiver extension meets the lower as possible. (I like the ASAP and the Tangodown PR4 for this. I have also used the MI version of the TD PR4 with good success.) You want the front the front attachment point as close to where the rail/barrel meets the receiver as possible. Some rail systems - DD Omega, LaRue Tactical - offer sling sockets there standard. Other handguards options may require you to buy a sling loop (ACE and VTAC make good ones) or socket (IWC makes a good one for use with Magpul MOE Handguards and Gear Sector makes a great one for throwing on a railed forend) to place on the rail where you want it. The further forward you have the sling, the more you can throw off your zero. I have seen a zero move by as much a 4" at 100 yards by a shooter tightening a sling while shooting. Keeping the sling attachment point close together enhances the abilities of the quick adjust 2 Point sling. It offers more adjustment, holds the rifle higher on your body (very helpful if you are vertically challenged like me ) keeping it from banging into your knees if moving with a slung rifle or from turning into a lawn dart if you take a knee or bend over to pick something up. This setup allows you to switch shoulders like a single point sling, and keeps the rifle tighter to you so it moves around less when slung making it easier to recover. It also gives you more room/slack in the total system when reloading and clearing malfunctions.