Screwball

How I originally took it... but asking him again for clarification. Could have sworn I read that he didn’t. If he is, any issue with what was described from a legal standpoint? Or it is at the discretion of the NJ FFL for whether or not I need a permit to get it back?

Here is the message he sent me... “John, You're quite welcome. There's no paperwork issues on my end. I merely enter the acquisition in my book as from your FFL on behalf of you. Then when the work is done, I ship to your FFL with the invoice marked for disposition back to you. No 4473 or any other admin stuff on my end. When your FFL gets the gun back from me, he enters it as an acquisition from me then when you come to retrieve it he enters the disposition to you. That's all the ATF requires of us. A 4473 & background check is not required by ATF when returning a repaired firearm to the original owner. Now as far as any NJ specific weirdness I cannot say:rolleyes: Cheers Bill” Any NJ issue on return if that’s how he does it?

That’s what I did on my .45 AR... Figure if I buy a .45 suppressor when I move, I’ll have another gun to run it on. Likely getting one for my Glock 30S and a light one for my SIG P938.

I wouldn’t go that route unless you have a lower that takes 7.62x39mm (AK) magazines. With the angle of the AR magazine, you are good with 7.62x39mm up to around the 6/7 round mark. After that, the lack of support of the top round gives you a balancing act between feeding and nosediving. The taper difference between the two rounds (5.56mm and 7.62x39mm) is why most AR adaptations of the Russian round are very unreliable. With the constraints of the AR magazine well, 7.62x39mm is a no-go for me. If you cut off that end of the lower and allow AK magazine fitment, have a better design.

9mm ARs can’t go D/I... parts of the jacket sheer off due to how close the gas port is and end up in the BCG. I’ve seen CMMG’s delayed blowback, which looks pretty nice. Can go bigger... I have a .45 D/I, and have seen 10mm done. Blowback can be a little tricky with getting the right buffer, but it is heavier overall (bolt). My .45 AR is just under 7 pounds, as shown. After getting my 5.56mm AR squared away with its buffer problems (functioned fine, minus locking back on empty), I have to do something similar with my .45. Macon recommends a standard Carbine buffer, but going to try a H buffer to see if the bolt is moving too fast to lock back. That is probably it, as the symptoms are identical to my 5.56mm (will lock back fine on cycling... so want to slow the bolt down a tad). In regards to similarities to a 5.56mm AR, the .45 D/I, used the same BCG... but bolt is different. Gas rings are standard. Buffer setup is similar. The gas system is a little different. The gas block on mine is about 3” up the barrel, with an extremely short gas tube. On blowback, you get a one piece bolt. Here is a shot of my Beretta CX4 bolt, but it would be similar (heavy block of metal, to keep the action closed until safe to open). Barrel doesn’t need a gas system, so more parts that aren’t needed. Magazines are another issue, as most people standardized on Glock magazines (Colt 9mm magazines fit a standard AR magazine well... but .45s aren’t as easy). Glock magazines don’t fit in a standard AR magazine well, so either must get a magazine system that does or go with a lower that is setup for a specific magazine (as mentioned, “dedicated” lower). My current setup uses H&K USC single stack magazines... as that was one readily available option that fit in the magazine well (with adapter block). Macon did come up with their own magazine, which I have an adapter for... but they are expensive (made well). I originally wanted to get 15s for here, but not spending the money on 10s. I’ll wait until I move, and get 20s. [emoji41]

I have a few extra 11-87 o-rings on hand, but my slug gun was my father’s 11-87... which he bought in 1987. All those years of hunting (inside a heated barn, then out in the elements... not to mention actual shooting), and I changed it out in 2009 just because I wanted to put a new one in. Very rare for them to go, unless you pull them off/put it on roughly (tear the rubber). Worst case, gun will still operate in a sort of straight pull action. Unless you are shooting doubles, not the end of the world. I’ve hunted with 11-87s for years, and my home defense shotgun is an 870 Police. When I got into trap, I bought a Mossberg SRII (when it was back at Mossberg for a cracked stock, I did shoot my Ithaca 37 with 20” once or twice). I liked it, as it did fit me well... but sold it a few months back. Got rid of it for some personal reasons, but looking at it, I just should have used my field 11-87 for trap. Why screw around with different triggers/controls, when I can use a similar gun for trap, and gain added proficiency with the few other guns I also shoot? I haven’t actually had a day where it was decent out and was able to go... but I want to try going over to Salomon’s a few times over the next month. Not that it will go bad, but have a bunch of Gun Club sitting in my ammo supply. Might as well use it up.

Roger that, and will ask when he gets me a price on direct shipping. Reading the thread he posted when he started, he did mention having to go through a A&D book... plus 4473s. If that is the case, can the FFL I use still put it in the GS book? Reading that in the thread, I’ll likely just send direct, like I’ve done with other gunsmiths over the years. He is a gunsmith that S&W Forum allowed to post on their site, with moderator approval. Very rare to have 3rd Generation gunsmith, so I’m opting for him to do the work over someone not familiar with that line. Most stopped working on them, for obvious reasons. From the people who have used him, nobody had anything negative to say. Main reason to consider the FFL route was shipping cost... but my main concern is the NJ side of the return trip. If I need a permit for a gun I already own... not waiting on a permit nor am I giving a dollar to NJ for it (I’d eat a NICS check, but hell if I go past that).

JT Custom Guns, thanks for the heads up. I figured something like that, but wanted to be sure before I sent it in. Doesn’t matter if the guy doing the work doesn’t have an FFL, and would be picking it up from one local to him? He didn’t go into how he gets the gun, but figured it wouldn’t leave another FFL illegally. In regards to the serial numbers, want to send the entire gun to make sure the decocker is still in timing afterwards. If not, he has to fit a new sear release lever. Nothing too extreme, but if the frame did need to be replaced, I’d be SOL anyways... as S&W support for 3rd Generation guns is non-existent. I could just send him the slide, but if the decocker is out of timing, I’d need to have a gunsmith fit a new sear release lever. No disrespect to local gunsmiths, but I don’t think I know of one I’d trust with my 1006 (no longer produced, and not a lot of people familiar with them). Sorry, but not selling any.

I’m looking to have my S&W 1006 converted to decock only, and the guy doing it is in Mississippi. Said that the most cost effective way to get the gun down to him would be sending through FFLs. If I have the pistol permit for my 1006, send it out for the conversion from a local FFL... do I need another pistol permit to get it back? Can spend a little more and send it directly to him. Just figured I’d ask, as I’m not going for another permit for this. Worst case, I’ll buy the parts and send it out when I move... in a state with less strict gun laws.

You will still get some carbon with a lens behind the muzzle... will be less, but still will get it. Cleaning isn’t that hard. Plenty of tips for that. Putting the lens in front of the muzzle... really only two benefits. First one, a stop to help keep the slide from being pushed out of battery. Second, no shadow from the gun. People running lights on long guns... it can be more apparent. You can see a barrel shadow depending on the relation of the light to it. Some people might find it to be distracting. Being the subject of weapon lights, I actually just ordered a new TLR-6 from AIM. It fits Glocks, but only got it because it is a common firearm. No laser on this model, so looking to put that module into my SIG P938... as I hate the laser (I run it off, but rather just be a light, with no chance of just the laser mode coming up). If it all works good, I’ll put the laser/light into the Glock adapter, and toss it up for sale.

I’m still running my “outlawed” magazines to PA as close to the deadline as possible, as I’m not playing any games while at FLETC. Will pick up as I make my final trip across the Delaware. But I just did my drug testing for CBP/USBP, and submitted my updated medical tonight. After that, the final order is all that awaits... hopefully it is past 45 days, so I can go on the cruise. If not, I’ll have some extra money in my account when I head down. Wish you guys the best of luck on the appeal, but I’m blowing this taco stand. Guns and the pup are coming with me... if the girlfriend decides to come, great. If not, easier on the move/choice of housing.

An FFL-03... collector of curios and relics. Everything else, best of luck to you.

For the P229-1 magazines, the only change was the 9mm. Prior, the .40 magazines were larger than the 9mm (think P228). The -1 is a .40 body, setup for 9mm. SIG standardized on the .40 magazine body for the frames, which allows one frame per the line, as well as make conversions streamline. Added benefit was the extra capacity for 9mm. The earlier 9mm magazines will still work in the -1 frames, but have some play in the well. For the grace period, use your best judgment. Personally, I think it is probably the dumbest legislation ever instituted (even if someone agrees with the anti-gun stance, it still doesn’t make sense). Are all the private transfers taking place before Sunday illegal? Nope, date for those transfers being ok without a NICS is cut/dry... if the magazine law starts on X day, shy of saying no new purchases, how do you enforce only parts of that law? If prior owned property must be surrendered/removed/modified by a specific date, how does the law apply differently for someone bringing them to a gunsmith for modification to make them legal compared to someone going to the range? Contraband, which isn’t contraband yet, illegal in some instances but not in others? It’s a very poorly implemented law, and I would personally like to see something along those lines be brought up in court... as I’d think the entire house of cards would blow over with it. Magazine capacities legal for years are suddenly illegal, but pre-owned magazines aren’t dangerous until a specific date... then they become dangerous/illegal. But I really don’t wish that on anyone... as it is a fourth degree crime (felony).

Having a bayonet is perfectly legal. Having a semi-auto that accepts a detachable magazine with any noted feature PLUS a bayonet lug equates to an “assault weapon.” For example, the most common single feature on an AR is the pistol grip. One without any others (just that pistol grip) is legal. Same AR, put on a gas block with a bayonet lug... you just created an “assault weapon” (more than one feature). Remember, semi auto with detachable magazine is the foundation of that part of the law. Possession of an “assault weapon” is a second degree crime. Judging the pellet pistols meet all NJ laws (there are parts of the “assault weapon” law that apply to pistols), you can keep them without issue. Any firearm (even things not considered firearms outside of NJ, but are here) that was legally purchased outside of NJ can be brought into NJ, judging it is legal to possess here. Having my C&R license, I can go to PA, purchase a revolver without the NJ pistol purchase permit or NICS, and drive home with it. All legal. However, if I bought a M1 Carbine, which is designated an “assault weapon” by name, and brought it back to NJ... breaking the law (C&R licensees must follow state and local laws). Now, if I called a local department and asked that... of course, they are going to say no... must get the pistol permit and (after 9/30/18) go through a FFL. That being said, look into transportation laws prior to coming into NJ and try to understand them. Pistols can only go between home and a select few places (range, gun shop, fixed business owned/leased by you, etc). Only exceptions are reasonable deviations (getting gas... yes; stopping at the bar after the range... no). Hollow point ammo is similar to pistol transportation. Long guns have a similar transportation law (add in other things like hunting), unless you get your NJ FID. Having a FID allows you to leave a long gun in your vehicle without needed to go straight to/from set points. In regards to speaking to lawyers, saying do not worry about NJ laws... are you kidding me? Was this just talking, or did you pay for that legal advice? If you get locked up for violations of NJ firearms law, is their word going to protect or defend you? Listen, you are allowed to do whatever you want... but do realize if you break the law and are found out, your 700 firearms are taken away from you. Plus, if it is a felony charge and you are convicted... you cannot own/possess a firearm after that. Is that worth any of the firearms you have that are illegal in NJ?

Didn’t Glock do 19Xs in black? Thought I saw a shot of one on one of the forums... if so, you just get forward serrations? Really? I’d get the 19X in FDE just to not have them. Personally, I’m good without a 45. My single Glock will stick with the 30S (in .45 [emoji41]) for at least the next year. I’ll probably pick up a 41 to match when I move (passed the background, going for the drug test tomorrow, so might be sooner than I thought). Only other chance is if Glock wins the CBP trials... then I’ll likely buy a 26 and a 43 (they are moving to 9mm, so I’ll have options with the two smaller guns). Personally, I want to see the 46 come to US market. Yea, the rotating barrel isn’t as common as other designs, but works great with my PX4. Would like to see Glock’s take on it. After that... put out a freaking Glock carbine! The Ruger is out, I know... but like the 46, I would love to see how Glock would do one. Unless their “innovation” is just making a gun previously out and assigning a new model number to it.

Agree and disagree... He is a big boy, so he definitely can make his own decision. Him not running a light doesn’t bother me in the slightest... but I do opt for a weapon light. The premise of this thread is to discuss the positives/negatives of a weapon light. I think the issue is that some people take it too far, whether they have to be right or take someone having a different opinion as an attack. Personally, I am now more interested in the stem of this thread about automatically considering someone who passed over multiple layers of security (dog, alarm, locked door) as a threat. Logically, you likely are facing someone who is looking to commit harm against you/family/someone else... but doesn’t mean it is the case. I disagree with that. Not just because the legal standpoint, but because the drunk (or someone mentally handicapped or suffering a mental illness) that walked into the wrong house that was shot/killed is still shot/killed. I have a conscious, and while I know I’d still be bothered by shooting an actual threat (what needs to be done needs to be done, but still taking a person’s life... not the same as shooting a deer), I personally couldn’t picture myself shooting an innocent person. I touched on it earlier in the thread, but I hope I (as well as anyone else here) never have to shoot someone. That being said, hopefully this thread can be saved opposed to locking. I definitely have been/continuing to screw around with strobe function to see if there is any merit there... even though I believe Ray Ray likely summed up their usefulness. I have to see which lights I run can’t disable that (I believe the LaserMax on my J-frame can’t... but all the Streamlights usually can).

If you go to LAPG, use their “FALL20” coupon code, you’ll get a TLR-7 for just at $88... didn’t look into shipping.

Not a stock, but a brace... but I’ve yet to see NJSP/AG view on braces for anything other than firearms (specifically related to the Black Aces DT). I don’t believe you’d have to pin it, as it isn’t a stock... but I would want clarification on that (opposed to making a “SBS” if NJ views it as a stock). Other than that, a feature to be concerned about is if the shell around the slide would be considered a barrel shroud. Think a test case or letter from NJSP/AG would be the only way to decide. 720 grams equates to about 25.4 ounces. Is your Glock under 23.6? Must also be under 50 ounces, unless that is the only feature. Magazine doesn’t matter, since it isn’t outside the pistol grip. Don’t put a threaded barrel on it, as it is another feature. Not a copy of a full-auto gun. Think those cover all the assault pistol features... can only have one of them. Federally, have to be careful with a vertical grip on a pistol. Would require a tax stamp (AOW).

I’m holding off for a good sale... and will get a second one. Like having a spare.

Yea, the TLR-7 really gave Streamlight a foot up in the compact weaponlight market. They previous option was the TLR-3, and while I ran it... the output wasn’t worth the size hanging off the gun. If they did different backplates with different controls, they would knock it out of the park. I actually just got another holster today for my Glock 30S/TLR-7 (White Hat Holsters). It is an OWB holster, but it shares commonality with the IWB holster for my 642-1/LaserMax light... meaning I can take the Kydex off either and swap to the other. I rarely will use OWB, but having both options with those two guns, which was picked up during a Labor Day sale... it wasn’t even a question. In regards to strobes, I’m still playing with them. It isn’t a setup that is a pain to engaged, and Streamlight makes it easily disabled. Personally, I really need to sit down with someone and see how they affect me/them in a setting where it likely would be used. They do give me a headache if I focus on them, so wouldn’t consider that a bad thing if the receiving end gets it.

I go through five or so every other month in my two Surefire handhelds... then add in the others (weapon lights), depending on use. Again, no interest to go that route. Even if I get 100+ charges, then I got to keep an eye out for depleted ones, and cycle them out/replace with new. Not to mention losing charge if they sit for 6+ months (probably wouldn’t; but that is my major issue with rechargeables... not same as a brand new battery). It is just a hell of a lot easier to keep two boxes of Surefires, when a battery dies, chuck and put in one from the box. Nothing needs to be done past that. Don’t take it as I’m saying you are wrong, but the benefits do not outweigh the negatives for me to go that route. Buying CR123s is worth not having that headache. I do keep track of batteries in my lights/sights, and replace as needed.

I stick with Surefire... and most of my lights have them in there. Exception being new lights, as they get whatever comes with them for the first run (my TLR-7 still has the original Streamlight inside, and still going; probably will swap it in the near future). Usually Amazon, but I make sure Amazon supplies them. Private sellers... unless they make the product, I’ve always had bad experience with them. Old product close to the expiration date, previous version which didn’t work (listed as the newer one), or looks like it was stored in a flooded basement. For all other batteries, to include AA, AAA, and even CR2032, I stick with Energizer. Used to be a Duracell fan, but there is something with their AA/AAA batteries that mess with the battery level readings on my insulin pump. Will say the battery is low, at about half-life. Works fine, but still gives notifications that it needs to be changed. Just for that, I stay with Energizer. In regards to rechargeables... not my cup of tea. Main thing is you have to recharge them (if you have 10 batteries, unless you have a very religious charging procedure... how do you quickly know if one is charged or not). To me, rather toss (dead or batteries that won’t give me high mode in my Surefire lights... they go in the garbage) and put in new batteries than that extra hassle. Add in limited number of recharges, just not something I view to be worth it. Back in the day, my parents used to have a set of rechargeable batteries... think more of the common types (AA, AAA, D). I don’t remember them staying around that long. It might work for some people, and it should reduce costs over the long term... but I’ll save money in other ways.

Likely won’t be fired... unions. [emoji107]

.22 rifles are exempt.

Nope... they are alloy. https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/E5C199 That is what comprises the polymer grip on the 90-Two. Rest is alloy.