Screwball

What gun? Is it an actual SAA, or a clone of some make? Is this a new occurrence, and worked normally prior to this?

Far from my style... just answering a question. I prefer regular grips/magazines.

Moving from 50 to 29. [emoji106]

Nope, not for me... hands are too big. Same with my P938, even with the six rounder and no TLR-6. It is an ankle or IWB gun. Closest would be a cargo pocket. Have holsters for that setup in almost all three (ankle holster being will be done once I ship the donor holster to my guy). I prefer a light on my carry guns. Only exception is my LCP, and that is size minded (and as you said, a pocket gun for me).

Roger that... I’ll download it when we get to Florida, and read on the way back.

Can anyone quote the PDF? Seems Disney data program isn’t working well with that link.

Unsure about exact location, but Houlton area.

For me... I’m more worried about rust when finish wears. My sweat is on par with battery acid. Mostly all of my carry guns are plated, stainless, both, or will be refinished in the future. Once my P938 is done and I get that threaded barrel, it will take a trip to Robar. Personally, if it is honest wear... I don’t have a problem with. Wear on NP3 does occur... just not as obvious (for what it’s worth). Likewise if I cause it from being stupid (the Hogue grip mount for my J-frame, but that scratch was covered up by Robar), I get over it and remember to not do that again. Someone else messing up the finish on my gun... not as happy over.

If you don’t have a FID, yes. If you do, then it is allowing you to do that with handguns. FID allows for less strict transportation rules with long guns.

What gun in question would be helpful, but a pre-1899 gun isn’t necessarily a pre-1898. The definition says prior to 1898, but also ammo that is not commercially available. That is what defines if it is considered an antique firearm or not. 2C:39-1a For 12 round magazines, is it semi-auto? The ten round limit is strictly for semi-auto rifles and pistols, exception being tube fed .22s. Let’s say you have a Mauser with a trench magazine or a Springfield M1903 with the Air Service magazine... both are legal in NJ, even if over 10 rounds, because they are bolt action. My Ishapore 2A1 is legal with its 12 round magazine. 2C:39-1y Antique handguns are defined similarly... pre-1898 and not commercially available ammo. However, they do allow for the ammo point to be swapped out if it is match, flint, percussion or pin fired. Pin fired must mean the firing pin is part of the cartridge. 2C-39-1aa Whether a pistol permit is needed for an antique handgun... I didn’t see any mention in either 2C:39 or 2C:58 that they are exempt from pistol permits. All I saw was you don’t need a trigger lock/case to be sold with an antique handgun. 2C:58-2a(5d) For short-barrel rifles that do not require a tax stamp due to C&R status... that is strictly per Federal law. NJ does not view them as such, and there is no exception in the definition for “sawed-off shotgun.” Yes, I did say shotgun... the definition specifically states shotguns with barrels under 18”, rifles with barrels under 16”, and shotguns or rifles with overall lengths under 26”. 2C:39-1o This is also included for stocked handguns, as definition of a rifle says any firearm meant to be fired from the shoulder. 2C:39-1m Funny thing (not antique related), firearms like the Shockwave or TAC-14 do not follow 2C-39-1o because NJSP/AG defines them as firearms... and not shotguns. In regards to laws not being clear... there are aspects of NJ firearms law where I agree that it is hard to understand. Shy of the part about pistol permits and antique handguns... everything else was found in definitions. Just read them carefully. Nothing I wrote wasn’t found in the section I noted for each. https://www.njsp.org/firearms/laws.shtml Any questions, go to the bottom of that webpage and click on either Chapter 39 (actual firearm law) or Chapter 58 (firearm sales). If, for example, you want to know about antique handgun details, go into the search option, click advanced search, and where is says “exact phrase,” put in “antique handgun.” That will bring up all the specific laws where it is used, and highlight the terms in the law.

Same with Maine... except you can’t hunt with a machine gun. Freaking liberals. [emoji107]

That’s actually one of the first negatives I’ve heard. To be honest, I’m not a big SIG fan for long guns/braced pistols. Don’t know if it still from their pricing on the classic line (outrageous), the P320 fiasco (and I still like that gun), or just the fact that they charge over twice the amount of a Scorpion for a MPX (not to mention costs of magazines are night/day). My P228... I consider a collectible. My P938... I love, but the main reason I got it was because it was before the releases of the main pocket 9mms (Glock 43, S&W Shield, etc). Shy of that... SIG really didn’t put anything out that interested me. Probably will have to look at it again, but just liked CZ from my SP-01. You get A LOT of gun for the price. Figure I just see it similarly here. And the PTR... that is more of a just kind of want option. Right now, the GSG-5 is the closest thing to an MP5 I can realistically own.

I’ll be going a similar route within the next year or so... but either a CZ Scorpion or PTR MP5 clone. Will eventually go for the stamp, just to actually have a SBR.

Yea, blowback is definitely easier when you are talking pistol calibers. Everything else I have in those calibers, not AR related... is blowback. Even if I got ambitious to do another AR in a pistol caliber, I’d probably go with CMMG’s delayed blowback system. I also hear you about the motivation. I was the same way with the .45 AR. I knew about the not locking back issues years back... never got around to it. But since I’m not buying 10 rounders with this upcoming magazine s***show, this is one of the few guns I’ll have 10 rounders ready to go. Kind of lit the fire under my ass to do it. Started knocking a few other things off the gunsmithing list just prior to it. Got Tom at HGW to get the stuck extractor pin out of my Yugo Tokarev, and then fit the original sear back to my SP-01 (had the CGW adjustable in, but would allow the safety to go on with the hammer down). Only other thing really on the list (that can be done in NJ [emoji41]) is redo my SR1911 with all stainless parts... but not really in the mood to start that.

Yea, I tried getting in touch with Ron back when I had Rudy doing mine. Didn’t get back to me until after me and Rudy spoke. Not a bad guy (he was busy, and completely understood), and from reading into the AR15.com thread on .45 ARs, I’d say both him and Rudy could write a book on adapting the D/I system on non-standard calibers. The D/I system appealed to me more than blowback... mainly due to weight. Originally, I was going as light as possible to make a range gun that I could bring my then girlfriend with me to the range. She had a stroke in college, and did not have the strength/dexterity in her left side to hold up a blowback 9mm. Broke up with her before I finished the lower, but still liked the gun. When I talked with Rudy way back when, he was telling me about .357 SIG uppers he was doing for someone, which was due to the customer being issued it. Siding with blowback, but not 100% on it. I’m actually really excited for where that .45 AR will be going when I move. A .45 suppressor is definitely in the wheelhouse for my Glock 30S, and I want to do a light 9mm one for my P938. If I can find a suppressor that will work with both the Glock and AR... Rudy already told me he can thread the barrel however I need it. Makes me glad I did it with a target crown instead of a pinned muzzle brake.

Really? Guess the higher temperatures/pressures from shorter gas systems don’t mean anything. Neither would increased pressure from a suppressor. I also never said that I needed new lube to get it to function... I said I need new lube to try and keep it from burning off. If you actually read what I wrote, maybe you’d see where I mentioned that I added more lube, and it ran perfectly until it burnt off again. Won’t even get into this not being an issue on my other ARs (said prior, as well), so someone with a functioning brain can say there is a difference with the .45 AR gas system. Rudy saying it runs hotter due to gas port position and recommending CherryBalmz, reinforces that. But you disagree... and obviously know everything. Well, if there is no difference between a gas D/I .45 AR and a blowback 9mm AR... I guess you’d be right. There is not a gas D/I 9mm AR... same guy that I know knows more about those pistol caliber gas systems tried it. The 9mm gas port being so close to the chamber for function lead to parts of the jacket ending up shooting down the gas tube and jamming up the bolt. However, that can’t be true... since you say so. Forgot, you must have been building uppers like these for over 7 years (Rudy has been doing them since 2011). But considering the operation of both are completely different... I got nothing more to add. I don’t need to call you names regarding it. Arguing blowback and D/I are the same proves more than enough.

Nope, I got your point... you aren’t changing. Might have missed my point... doesn’t bother me at all. Shoot your guns just the same. [emoji106] How many D/I .45 ARs have you built? Shot? Seen? Telling me it is a lower pressure round and comparing it to blowback 9mms, you obviously don’t have background in them. Not faulting you for it or saying you don’t know anything because of a lack of knowledge about that... but you kind of don’t have a leg to stand on to say it is setup wrong. While the system is similar, it isn’t the same as a mid-length 16” or a rifle length 20”. Macon Armory is one of like two places that offers these setups. Rudy builds them himself. So, if it comes down to talking about a D/I .45 AR... sorry, but I’ll take his view before yours. His view also explains what occurred to me A LOT better than yours, as if it was setup wrong, it wouldn’t work sometimes and not others (nor alleviate when lube was added). And again, this doesn’t change the fact that the owner of that company (CherryBalmz) stated if you aren’t going to use his lubricant, he gave suggestions of both firearms lubricant and non-firearms lubricant that would be best. Nobody here is saying you are wrong, but if you don’t want to read a thread that has a crap ton of info... it doesn’t hurt me. That thread has info on lubricating ARs... and good info for people to make their own mind up. How is it ok for you to just say Mobil One, yet everyone else is automatically wrong/naive? That thread stated Mobil One, but gave info on why it is good. Sorry if you don’t like a different opinion, or a setup with different needs. I’ll warn you... I’ll likely be posting some pictures in here from the range when I get CherryBalmz in (probably two weeks or so, since I’m going on vacation tomorrow), and test it out of my .45 AR. Good, bad, or indifferent. Not doing it to piss you off, but if that is going to be the case... sorry?

All I said was that there isn’t the paid reviews of CherryBalmz like there were how many other lubricants prior (search YouTube, nobody is talking about it). Those with paid hype were listed in that thread, as well. I personally like when smaller companies put out a good product. I use Robar for refinishing... but I also use CCR for those reasons. If it is between the two, I go CCR (only exception is if they can’t do something; alloy frames, long guns). Also don’t know where buying a $60 safety comes into this. Stock safeties, included in most lower parts kits, work fine. I switched all of my lowers to an ambidextrous safety (standard one with the screw), because of personal preference. I also spent $60ish on a safety, as I wanted a FDE one for my build. If you have a problem with that... sorry you feel that way (we live in a capitalist society). Me, personally, I really don’t care what parts other people build their ARs with... unless they have a failure with the part. Then, I’m interested... especially if I run the same part. I have a Norton ambidextrous magazine release and Magpul release button on most of my ARs (minus the .45, as it uses a bottom loaded magazine adapter with USC magazines; when I move, and can get the Macon 20 rounders, I’ll put those two on it... as that is a top loaded adapter and will use the traditional controls). Really don’t care what anyone else feels about that. When others start giving me money for shooting/guns, then I’ll worry what they think about my builds. Glad you use Mobile One. [emoji106] Glad you feel confident in it. [emoji106] But shy of that... are we supposed to just go off your opinion? Isn’t that the same as other people recommending X lubricant? It was brought up in that thread why Mobile One guys have good results... and I think he gave alternatives (don’t remember if something was a better choice, but I really didn’t read that far in it other than he touched on it). For temperature, I’m moving to Maine... which will be a little colder than NJ. -50 degrees? I’m not going out in it unless I have to. But I also don’t see most people shooting in 600 degree weather... as that is borderline house on fire temperatures. But, if you actually took a second and read that linked thread... you’d see where those numbers are coming from. But I’ll copy them to make it easier for you... these are gas temperatures at those points. “As to DI AR temps, here's the breakdown: Gas Key: 1000F in rifle-length systems, 1500F in SBRs. Carbine length is about 1200F Cam Pin/Cam Channel: 450F-750F Bolt Tail: 450F-750F” I don’t think people alluded to shooting on the surface of the sun (exaggeration, before someone decides to correct me on it), but internally, 600 degrees isn’t hard to get to. For your point on my .45 AR... I think you need to go back and reread my posts. If you are comparing to 9mm, you do realize my .45 isn’t blowback, right? It is a D/I gun, with the gas post about half the distance from where a pistol length gas port is. Issues I’ve had go away when I lather the s*** out of the bolt with EWL. Shoot a little bit, issues start coming back. The first time I noticed the issues, gun was probably dry, as it sat for sometime (started from Jump Street). Like I said, I asked Macon Armory about it, as I thought the upper just needed a heavier buffer (which I tried, and worked until lube burnt off again). If it was another issue (Macon’s side), why would I get it working for periods of time? EWL and Shooters Choice grease has worked fine for my other ARs (piston and D/I)... but if it isn’t working for this one, I’ll find something that does and stick with it across the board. Not going to use X in some, and Y in others. For the part about maintenance, I don’t disagree with you. Me? I clean my guns after each time they are shot. Went further when I was having issues with that rifle... even down to putting the bolt in the ultrasonic (I do it periodically on certain bolts, or if I’m cleaning one initially that has Cosmoline in it). Normally, just scrape what needs to be scraped, pull dirt off with solvent, then relube. Magazines get cleaned, and with the case of the USC ones that run the .45 AR, pulled out one that I bought used, which was giving me issues. Turned out that the spring was in backwards, and bent on one end... so replaced the spring and now have a good magazine. Your friend might be naive, as I am taking your word for it... but because I’m trying something that people I trust have recommended, at least I’m looking at something new (if it doesn’t work, I will try something else... but I feel confident moving forward with Rudy’s recommendation). How many times in history has that type sentiment been out there? Moving to the Garand. Moving to semi-auto pistols. Moving to the M16. People don’t like change. But if it works for my needs (the .45 AR isn’t a common setup people have), I’m good. Trust me, you using Mobile One doesn’t bother me one bit. If it works, it works. But if CherryBalmz work for me, don’t see the issue... thought the end result was to have a functioning firearm?

Standard AR? Probably not... and if you read that thread, the owner of CherryBalmz gives suggestions of what to use... other than his stuff (not even gun lube). Like vjf915 said, it is a very good read. There was even other commercial firearm lubricants rated, with recommendations on what was the best in his option... so you have multiple options. Personally, I’m not buying stuff that people cram down my throat. Give me the info, and I’ll do my own research. That is what drew me to it, after recommendations. However, I had issues with Slip2000 EWL/Shooters Choice grease lasting on my .45 AR. D/I, with the gas block right in front of the castle nut. Think pistol length, but no visible gas tube under the handguards. Pressure with that is very different than a standard AR... and why I had issues with lube. Created the situation of why I thought it was overgassed. For the guy who manufactured my upper to recommend it (he does 10mm and 7.62x25mm in D/I, as well), that is more than enough for me. Everyone else giving it praise without money backing it, made it easier of a decision. There is a chance that I get it and is garbage... and I have to go somewhere else. But with Rudy from Macon Armory standing by that recommendation, I’d be shocked if it isn’t as expected.

To be clear, you didn’t explain anything in regards to what you had intended to use it for. You stated originally you have limited firearms knowledge. The thread discusses lubrication on an AR... most of which is the bolt (and most ARs are D/I). Sorry if I didn’t see a pattern to your examples. I just figured that is what you were familiar with. That being said, the points where you mention possible use are not as important to function as is the bolt assembly. There are plenty of people running ARs with nothing on the trigger assembly or magazine release. Bolt lubrication can be the difference between a fun range session and manipulating the action every couple shots because something happened... bolt didn’t close fully, so hammer sent it home and didn’t ignite the primer; bolt didn’t lock back (judging the buffer works for the gas pressure); failure to chamber. I hit those points with oil, and wipe down excess. More to prevent rust. I personally don’t run regular lubricant on any of those points. I used to put a dab of grease on the face of the hammer... but haven’t in some time, and have not noticed any difference. I’m not a fan of putting extra lubricant on places that doesn’t need it. Trigger surfaces, once you fire them enough, the parts interacting start to smooth out. They start to polish against each other. If that was a concern to me... I’d have the related parts refinished in NP3 or another nickel blended plating. In regards to silicone lubricant on stuff other than the bolt group... if you want to try it, give it a shot. See what gets (or doesn’t get) attracted to it from actual use. Me personally, I feel that is more work than any benefit you’ll see in return.

Do you use it on tools with high temperature? I believe silicone lubricant has a maximum temperature rating of like 400 degrees. Inside a D/I bolt group, you can get above that. I’m actually switching to Cherry Balmz... waiting on the stuff to actually arrive. My guy Rudy at Macon Armory turned me onto it. Was having issues with my D/I .45, which was burning oil from inside the bolt (gas ring area). Was causing some issues with locking back/jamming... which I thought was related to the buffer. The gas on the .45 is too hot for normal lube to last... considering the gas block is just in front of the upper receiver. But I’m likely going to change across the board, including my piston 5.56mm. It is sort of like a grease. The owner of the company did some Q&A on AR15.com a few months back... think it was a comparison thread between it and SlideGlide. Might be a good read, even if you don’t go with it. Gave some gas temperature readings, from within the gas system, and really put temperatures into perspective. Lubes... you see a lot of fads. I do have to say that I both see a lot of user recommendations with Cherry Balmz, and recommendations not coming from paid members of the industry. A five bottle pack cost me about $40, and can pick any combo you want. I got three of their Black Rifle Balm, and then two of Winter Balm (to cover my ARs up in Maine).

Roger that, and understood. Let’s look at the LCR... is it strictly the fact that the stock grip only allows for two-finger grip is what turns you off? If so... https://www.hogueinc.com/ruger-lcr-no-finger-groove-rubber-tamer-cushion-grip-black It has been awhile since I shot an LCR, but when I was comparing my father’s to my 642-1, it wasn’t a terrible shooter. Stock grip is a Tamer, which means you have rubber gel in the back (that linked one also has it, but extended a little bit). One of the bigger issues I had with moving to the LCR was the trigger pull. I had quite a few rounds behind my 642-1... and the DAO trigger of the S&W is polar opposites from the LCR. Add in new holsters, costs to switch were not worth it when I found a 9mm cylinder to convert my 642-1 (same gun, so no gear changes other than moonclips and a method to carry reloads). Only thing that might have tipped the scales towards the Ruger would have been if they released the LCRx in 9mm. I likely would have jumped on it... but it was just released when I was looking, and just in .38. A J-frame is a smaller revolver (compared to a 5” 627)... and the stock grips are usually along this profile. https://www.hogueinc.com/s-w-j-frame-round-butt-rubber-bantam-style-grip-black There are a few SKUs that have longer grips, but predominantly, that is the size grips that will be on most J-frames that people carry. But if you want more comfort, and can give up some compactness... https://www.hogueinc.com/s-w-j-frame-round-butt-rubber-monogrip-black I think the Hogue J-frame pictures are the same gun. Personally, if I’m considering to carry a revolver... I’d opt for an Airweight. And I do carry one. May look like a 640... but it is the NP3 Plus. Converted to 9mm... it is noticeably lighter than a similar LCR (the 9mm uses the stainless steel frame of the .357; the .38 might be a little lighter). I can’t stress this enough, but it is like carrying nothing at all. If you really want to go light... the scandium/titanium guns weigh the same, loaded, as my Airweight does unloaded. But also need to consider that some people are recoil shy. I know some that hate shooting standard pressure .38s out of an Airweight. Small revolvers/guns require more training to shoot proficiently. It stinks to say, but a few rounds out of Ray Ray’s revolver isn’t telling you that much. If it’s unbearable, might want to look elsewhere. If you weren’t accurate or was nervous, those are aspects that practice should make you overcome. That being said, I know people that are very good shooters, and put a 629 (.44 Magnum) in their hands... they are lucky if rounds hit the paper. There are a few ranges that rent guns in this category... not to mention I’m sure most of the guns in this category are likely owned by members here. Maybe you can meetup with some to see what fits... or at least is a good base for what you want. The weight of a steel J-frame might be beneficial, as it will soak up some of the recoil. What you need to decide is how heavy before you dump it and go with something else?

Definitely look into it, but if you become a Tennessee resident, usually non-resident permits don’t allow you to carry there. It is like that in most states. Just something to look into... and might have a short period before you can legally carry. Other than that, congratulations. I’m counting down to April (Maine), but will have to move in the August/September 2019 timeframe. But will be in Georgia from April to August... so that’s better than NJ. Definitely looking forward to that last time out of the state.

Little bit confusing, at least my in eyes... For S&Ws, they are grouped in frame sizes. The 640 is a J-frame, which most of their smaller frame revolvers are based off. The 642, which I own (642-1, no lock), is the aluminum version (Airweight). The 640 is steel. The 340 is a scandium frame/titanium cylinder (Airlite). The grip is actually identical for them all... and most people can only get two fingers on it. However, a different grip (removable part) can be installed to give you the extra finger placement. I used to have the Hogue Monogrip on my 642-1. Grip was similar to my 629-1. For the way I carry the revolver, the Crimson Trace LG-405s are a lot better... and similar to the grip you don’t like. It is now currently converted to 9mm... and I don’t notice any issue shooting it with that grip. The other part of the frame designation is cylinder size. The N-frame is normally larger caliber cartridges... such as .44 Magnum in the situation with my 629-1. Holds six rounds of .44 or .45. However, you also get the 627, which is an eight shot .357/.38. Opposite end of the spectrum... the 686 is a six shot .357/.38 on the L-frame (they do have the seven shot 686+, but not what I’m talking about). They have the 69, which is a five shot .44 Magnum... also on the L-frame. There is a lot that goes into these frames/grip sizes, and even if you don’t like certain models out the gate, you also should consider grips turning something you aren’t interested in into something you’d love.

Not a D/I .45 ACP... that turns heads every time I go to the range.