Jump to content

Ian S

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    293

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

  • Feedback

    100%

Posts posted by Ian S

  2. Posted

    Yes, the per round price includes targets. If you're thinking that's cheap, you're right. The club is not-for-profit member run. During public shooting hours, there will be one or two members who are on duty for that day. They will have set up the voice callers, be responsible for loading the machines and coordinating the sign-up and payment for each round. We almost always start shooting at the opening hour time and keep shooting until everyone is done. After that, the guys on duty will make the call whether to wait a while for anybody else that might show up or to close up. i.e. While we start on time, we may not be open if you come towards the end of the scheduled day.

     

    The crowd really varies by whether there is a special event, how the weather is and if there are ATA shoot scheduled around the area. There are two trap houses available and the club tries to keep sign-up availability fair. That said, I'd come in expecting a wait until you figure out the flow of the crowd. Each round will average 15 to 20 minutes, so if you're first available squad is 4 rounds down the sheet, you might be waiting an hour or so. On a typical day, if you're there a half hour early, you can sign up and start getting your gear ready and be shooting on the first squad. Otherwise, there are plenty of seats to watch the shooters and talk with others. That's the best way to pick up tips to the game. It's a small club with a friendly social atmosphere and the experienced guys are happy to share some insight.

     

    Basically, you will want to bring your shotgun, ammunition (#7.5 shot or smaller only), and eye and ear protection. A shell pouch is also handy to keep ammunition within easy reach. Twenty-five shells are tough to stuff in your pockets and setting the box of shells on the ground can be awkward.

     

    On your first visit there, ask for the Range Officer on duty and let them know it's your first time there and/or your first time shooting trap. They can give you a run-down of the club and a quick tutorial on the rules of the game if you need it. They will also ask you to read the safety book and sign-off that you did (that's an annual ritual for all of us). 

     

     

  10. Posted

    A couple years ago, I went around to Lou's, Griffin and Howe and ended at Meltzer and Sons. I'd recommend the same route to put your hands on a number of different models. As I remember, for trap specific, Lou's had a Ceasar Guerini, Griffin and Howe had some Berettas (none trap specific, but many others running the gammit of field and target models from many manufacturers - it's a great shop), but Meltzers had the Citori XT I was looking for and the price was comparable to Cabelas. 

     

    Knowing that you're looking for a trap specific model will limit your selection, which is fine if that is what you want. Consider what it is that those models offer. The sporting models may also meet your needs and give you a little more versatility. I know I'm looking to add a sporting model now.

  11. Posted

    Populating and head spacing a virgin barrel is at least half the work for a build. If you buy a kit with that part done, and get a receiver with the holes pre-drilled, then you just need to rivet the parts onto the receiver and press the barrel back into the trunnion.

     

    Easy? Call it 4 to 6 hours to do a head spaced kit.

     

    Some folks with talent might rig up some inexpensive and ingenius tooling, but the easiest way to go would be a 12 ton shop press and a set of jigs from a-k builder. Or with a head spaced kit, you could probably get away with the bolt cutter attachments method.

     

    The cost of tooling and the miscellaneous parts (rivets, and 922 compliance) need to be considered. You'll either borrow some for a one off build or find yourself with some specialized equipment that creates an addiction.

  13. Posted

    I have no issue drilling the port.

     

    The green mountain chrome lined barrel is $20 more than typical chrome lined barrels and $60 more than the subject Atlantic barrels. When your talking about a $60 difference in a $500 price point rifle, the Atlantic Firearms chrome lined barrels are a smokin' deal.

  14. Posted

    I'd opt for the 922r compliance part over the used, stripped barrel of unknown origin. (US Barrel, receiver, muzzle device, and trigger group gets you over that hump.)

     

    The nitride finished barrels are a nice option, but I'm not convinced that I want to deal with the increased hardness on the exterior for a limited corosion advantage.

     

    If we're throwing out options, green mountain barrels have great reviews

     

    http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrels/ak-47-barrel-1975-profile-sku371000038-42436-79141.aspx

  20. Posted

    That tutorial shows you how to do it, and using a ready made side folder receiver would skip a big part of his effort.

    Is there any reason to think you couldn't get the pistol in NJ?

     

    Meanwhile, back in the Handguns "is it legal" thread:

     

    A semi-automatic pistol that has an ability to accept a detachable magazine and has at least TWO of the following:

    (1) An ammunition magazine that attaches to the pistol outside of the pistol grip; Check

    (2) A threaded barrel capable of accepting a barrel extender, flash suppressor, forward handgrip, or silencer; Check

    (3) A shroud that is attached to, or partially or completely encircles the barrel and that permits the shooter to hold the firearm with the non-trigger hand without being burned;

    (4) Manufactured weight of 50 ounces or more when the pistol is unloaded; Check

     

    The weight and magazine would be a no go.

  21. Posted

    I didn't mean to knock your method. If you can make it and get through whatever comes up, I have a tremendous amount of respect for that work. If I were doing it with threaded rods and bolt cutters, I'd be binding, galling, twisting and easily wind up with a scrap pile.

  22. Posted

    Here's a shopping list of that learning curve.

     

    My first build was from a complete kit I bought on NJGF classifieds. One Romanian M63 parts kit, virgin barrel and NDS-1 E-Z receiver. (Note the E-Z). I had considered doing a build for about a year and was really hesitating for want of all the tooling. But, when the ad said "all the parts to complete a build" I jumped on it.

     

    I bought it and considered the tooling again later. Anvil and ball peen hammer? Maybe. Big, big maybe. But that's a quick way to find yourself in a spot that just isn't working.

     

    Bolt cutter adapter for rivets and threaded rods for the barrel? That might work in a pinch, but when it's all said and done, you're about as much into those mickey mouse tools as getting the right tools for the job.

     

    So, press, jigs, bits... get the right tools for the job.

     

    Now, I find myself setup with a purpose for the tools I had, and a few new tools that I needed. Romanian M63 built. I started looking for another. I read Bulgarian kits are the best, so one NDS-2 E-Z, another virgin barrel and a Bulgarian kit. Sweet! It went together and slides like butter. Added a rail and scope and it is a solid piece of machinery.

     

    Egyptian Maadi? Let's do it!

     

    There were a few rivet stems to be punched out. The short rivets in the front trunnion punched out easily. The long rivets in the rear tang were tougher, but we drilled out the middle of them and eventually they fell right out with a punch. 

     

    But it's a used barrel. And an NDS-1 receiver. (Note I didn't say E-Z here.) There is an AK-Builder jig to drill the receiver holes but this one caught me by surprise and we drilled the trunnion holes without it. It wasn't difficult, it just took a lot of time to get the drill press set up for each hole. Cobalt bits made quick work of the hardened receiver, it was just an extra 10 steps and a lot of time that the E-Z receivers save. -- Lesson: go with the pre-drilled receiver if at all possible, or get one more jig.

     

    Used barrel... with existing parts that need to come off!? Fully doable, but more work. The front sight and gas block came off easy enough. Using the press to pop out the 4 pins was absolutely necessary. The rear sight block had to be cut off. Some parts just don't move again after being pressed on. -- Lesson: use a new barrel, or go slow and make it work.

     

    Populating the barrel with the Maadi parts went smooth. We headspaced on the Maadi trunnion and reamed to an oversized .302" barrel pin and it fit like a new cut. It was a beautiful sight to see. -- Lesson: You can headspace a new trunnion with that used barrel, but plan for the larger barrel pin. Better than I expected, but you need the oversized pin separate from the kit you bought. -- Lesson: With any build, if the parts are jumping, stop, lap and lube. Lithium grease is the way to go. Do not use oil! Use grease!

     

    Gas block on. Front Sight... aligned, pressed, aligned, pressed, aligned, pressed, repeat. Went slow and checked repeatedly. This is going to be a shooter!

     

    Finally, about 10 hours into the build, we were ready to press the barrel out of the trunnion and start riveting the trunnion, rear tang and trigger guard to the receiver.

     

    On the fourth rivet of the front trunnion, seeing the home stretch, we missed the trunnion's slot by a micron and bottomed the rivet tool out on the trunnion metal. The tool's arm snapped under one more pump on the press and we just about hit the deck to avoid the flying shrapnel -- Lesson: WEAR YOUR EYES at every step. Drilling... pressing... if you're in the shop, wear your eyes. You won't be cool with an eye patch. -- Lesson: I can't say check your alignment enough. Take your time and get the tight tolerances in place. If it looks like you're done, take it out of the jig and check, you can always set up and finish it, but it'll take longer to unbreak the tool.

     

    That's my lessons learned,and if you're not learning it's hardly worth doing. All said, it's still gotta be easier than a shovel build.

     

      

  24. Posted

    I've done a couple. There are lots of kits readily available with or without populated barrels. Some are excellent or very nice condition, some are used and show it. Nodak Spud stamped receivers are highly recommended, reasonably priced and good quality.

     

    AK-Builder sells jigs to make the whole process run smooth. Those jigs and a press, plus an end mill, reamer and headspace gauges are the specialized tools to get it done. Other tools you'll need are more common to any home workshop (vise, grinder, drill press).

     

    It does not take any mechanical talent. Trust me.

     

    Problems? Go slow and measure twice. Head spacing a new barrel and getting the front sight block aligned right is critical. The rest is just sticking rivets in holes and pressing. When you're done, a store bought gun just doesn't compare.

×
×
  • Create New...