Jump to content

Rick_F

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    213

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Posts posted by Rick_F

  1. Posted

    I have a 5.7 MK handgun. I love it. At times, ammo for it is hard to find or restricted and pricey. If you go for it and get a good price on ammo stock up now. You will either have to go with the 10 round mag or have an FFL modify the 17 round mag to 15. Replacement mags are usually hard to find and expensive. A new one comes with three. Finding a holster for the MK model is difficult, if you want anything other then a cheap one, you will need it custom made. FN customer service is fair. Reloading 5.7 is a risky proposition because of the very high pressures generated in the round, and if you screw that up, you are SOL.

     

    They actually come in 10 rd or 20 rd flavors.  I ordered a Fiveseven MKII and the dealer was kind enough to ship the 20 rd'ers to a friend in PA.  I then bought mag blocks to cut it down 5 rounds.  The blocks needed some sanding though, as I couldn't seat the magazine in the magwell with 15 rds loaded.  It is extremely easy to pin these mags.  If you go this route, and need any advice, please feel free to contact me.  Also note these mags load just as easy as Pmags.  This is nice if you go shooting with a significant other with long fingernails.

  4. Posted

    Great info guys.  I'll rule out the YHM based on this info.  I'm looking more for a "tactical" brake, as I want something well rounded, and to somewhat control the noise.  My fiancé likes the look of the PWS, so we'll probably go that route but I'll look into the Nordic as well.  I'm assuming the fact it's going on a piston upper makes no difference.  For this particular upper (SIG 516), the rail is proprietary, and I believe can be removed without having to slide anything over the barrel.  Is there anything maintenance wise, that a pinned comp will make difficult?

  5. Posted

    Along that same one of thinking - you probably won't notice the difference with a brake/comp or without one as a new shooter either. Unfortunately in NJ you can't just swap muzzle devices at will, they need to be pinned - which is a pain, costs money, and usually destroys the brake being removed. Under these restrictions putting a quality device with superior performance on the rifle at the beginning makes more sense even if you don't notice any increase in performance. There certainly isn't a decrease in performance.

     

    Your other option is to leave the barrel slick for now Go shoot a bunch and try other folks rifles and see what you like. Then make your decision.

     

    Remember, the efficiency of a brake can me modeled, it's abilities to reduce muzzle climb or felt recoil can be measured, but ultimately the performance of a particular device is subjective to the shooter.

     

    Thanks for taking the time to reply.  My problem is I need something welded on now, because the upper I have came with a threaded barrel with a flash hider on the end.  This bums me out because I can't even test fire it to check function prior to modifying it.  SIG is good on warranties, but would probably decline covering a modified upper. 

    My line of thinking is under the assumption that brand A.) muzzle brake might make a 5% improvement over stock in flip/recoil while brand B.) might make a 5.1% improvement.  That minor difference might be felt by some, and not by others.  I have a Springfield Operator, and I shot a friend's Dan Wesson.  Is the DW a much better pistol?  Of course.  Can I shoot it any better?  No.  Can a very experienced shooter?  Yes.  Is it worth 2.5x the money?  That becomes subjective . . .

     

    On a side note, I'm making this additional AR with input from my fiancé, so she'll enjoy shooting it at the range as well as I.  She owns a 686+, and really doesn't take much interest in my guns, (except my SIG because she helped me pick it out) no matter how well she shoots them, as they aren't "hers".  I had an assembled the lower a while ago (Spikes stripped lower & buffer tube, PSA parts, Giessele SSA-E trigger, HK grip and stock) and she was talking about how I should get a SIG upper.  Ok done.  Now, I'm gathering muzzle brake input, but in the end I'll have to give her the final say :) 

  6. Posted

    That's a clue ;)

     

    How long are you planning to be a novice?

     

    Choosing a muzzle device because the color matches the barrel is retarded.

     

    That is all.

     

    As far as the color, I was responding to the poster who stated the color of the YHM doesn't match the rifle.  I'm just stating that it is likely to actually match the SIG upper. 

     

    As far as being a novice, what I'm thinking is that I'm probably unlikely to feel a difference between them when they are all of similar design.  This reminds me of car talk how people swear they can feel the difference between different brands of 3" tube intakes that all have the same filter on the end, and same basic design principles.  Under what types of conditions and ability level must one be to be able to fire a rifle, without looking at the brake, and be able to discern the brand/model?

  7. Posted

    Thanks for all the advice.  What I'm thinking is I can't really go wrong with any of them.  I really just wanted to make sure one of them doesn't really suck in comparison to others.  The PWS seems to be the most popular, but it's over 2x the costs of the other.  I'm wondering if I, a novice, would be hard pressed to appreciate the nuances it may provide.  I actually think the YHM might match the color of the SIG upper, as from the gas-block forward it is more grey than the rest of the rifle.

     

    sig_R516-16B-P_d.jpg

  8. Posted

    Hey guys.  I recently got a great deal on a SIG 516 upper, with the caveat that it comes with an A2 flash-hider.  My current LMT AR just has a plain barrel, so I have no experience with brakes of any kind.  Will adding a brake make it louder than a plain crown barrel?  Can anyone give me a comparison between the following?  I'm hoping to see the Pro's and Con's for each

     

    * YHM Phantom brake/comp

    * PWS FSC556

    * Troy Medieval

    * DPMS Miculek brake

     

    Thanks!

  10. Posted

     fug the emails. pick up the phone and call CS. Any issues I may have had were resolved that way.

     

    With a all due respect, the point of the internet point and click purchase is convenience.  I shouldn't have to call (tried twice and didn't get an answer) to have this rectified.  Quite frankly, it's difficult for me to call and discuss anything firearms related while at work w/out getting sent to HR.  Via email someone in customer service apologized and said they would send me an extra box for my troubles and it would ship next day (that was 12/31).  I finally received an email stating it was going to ship out this week, but I didn't see an extra box on the packing list.  Time will tell if they send it or not.  I could've easily forgotten that I've even made this purchase, and my card was charged.  Not worth the hassle and follow ups IMO.  I have no problem setting up backorders like I do with Midway, Cabelas, and Sportsman's Guide because they don't charge you into it ships. 

  14. Posted

    I think if you list it here for that price you will sell it no problem and save your self alot of headaches and still have money in your pocket.

     

    Thanks- I'll work on getting some pics either tonight or tomorrow and set it up on here.  I have no problems letting anyone interested try it at GFH range either.  Thanks for your valuable input.

  15. Posted

    There are FFL's out there that will only accept guns from other FFL's. If you do it, you will be paying your local FFL for a transfer, plus the shipping. If the guy doesn't like it, you will then pay for the shipping back (unless you get the "buyer" to pay for it) plus the transfer fee to put the gun back in your hands.

     

    So, I'd find someone to buy it locally, face to face, and avoid all the fees and problems.

     

    So in other words, I'm prob looking at roughly $75 or so just to send it out from an FFL.  I'm not so worried about the buyer rejecting it because I have nothing to hide regarding it's condition.  Only thing I can see is him flaking out at the last minute.

  16. Posted

    Personally seems like a headache and unless your getting a ridiculous high offer for it,  I would sell it local first. I have not seen you advertise it here in the marketplace.

     

    I'm selling for $575 + shipping/paypal/other fees, so I don't think that's a really high offer.  To be honest, I was toying with keeping it, and my right index finger accidentally clicked on a purchase button for another ACOG (poor trigger control?), and my left brain instructed me to recoup some cash and answer a WTB ad on Armslist.  Maybe I'll look into taking some decent pics and posting in the marketplace.

  17. Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    I received a good offer for my Saiga 12 from a guy in NV.  Issue is his FFL will only accept from another FFL.  What is the going rate to have an FFL ship it for me? 

     

    Also, he wants the option of me sending it to his FFL for inspection.  His FFL will then allow him to look it over, and hold it until I receive the payment.  Does this sound like I'm opening myself up for a problem?  The thing is absolutely mint, with exactly 40 rds through it, and just the safety scratch that I believe happens on all AK patterned firearms.  Therefore, I can't see any reason he would not want to accept it.  Do I have any recourse if his FFL just hands it over to him?  Thanks in advance.

  23. Posted

    I can't really choose a favorite- I change my mind as the wind blows, but I only own one striker fired pistol.  My 5.7 really feels like a great striker fired trigger though, despite have a hammer.  I think out of all my pistol, my HK P30 has the worst trigger.

×
×
  • Create New...