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michaelrc51

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Posts posted by michaelrc51


  1. I have an S&W PC1911 and a STI Edge 2011 in .40.

    Don't overlook the S&W 1911, it's a really nice 1911 at a bit over $1k. I ended up shelling out a bit more for the PC1911 and now that it has some rounds through it it really is a nice shooting gun.

    If you have the budget and are considering an STI, you can't go wrong. I would suggest getting one from Dawson Precision. I bought a CRP Edge that was hard chromed for a little more than MSRP on a reg Edge. Only problem is once you shoot it nothing else will compare!

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


  2. I guess I didn't have any idea what I was getting into! I have a bunch more reading to do. btw Pizza Bob I have the BMT loader and knew something was wrong when I couldn't budge it when using the Armscor cartridges I had. Thanks everyone for the info.

    I got the TK customs moon clips and had what I believe to be the same issue on my 627 Vcomp.

    I wish I had an answer for you but after trying it out and it not working I have been hand loading the firearm.

    I bought the loading tool from TK and it was physically hard to buy the cartridge on the moon clip. When I went to put the moon clip in it was almost like the spacing was off. It was hard to get the cartridges in the chambers and the further I pushed the harder it was until I decided to stop and that was about half way in.

    Guess I need to do some investigating.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


  3. Something is wrong here, but the strangest part is how it didn't affect the 3 number. Lots of times safe locks break and this happens but because of the way the wheels work it will inherently affect the combo after it.

    Post a pic so I can see what type of combination lock it is and I'll tell you what is going on.


  4. Replacement fibers are cheap and easy to swap.

     

    Go on Dawson's site and look at the videos, there is one on how to swap.

     

    I am in the Lambertville area and I bought extra fibers. If anyone wants to come here and change it I would gladly do it for a couple dollars.


  5. Ok, I contacted liberty directly and well I kind of got the run around.

    The place in Mt Laurel said it will take a few weeks for him to get pricing together. I think they are giving me the run around so.....

    He wants to have people together and know what they want before giving out pricing so there isn't any way to put something together here.

     

    If he actually does get back to me in a week or two and give me pricing I would be shocked.

    Also, I am to close to there other dealers to start a dealership.

     

    I can get Amsec, Gardall, and many other safes for a good discount. If you are interested in any of these other brands contact me and I will get you a price. These safe manufacturers make more than just gun safes.


  6. Well this thread really set me off examining the various aspects of home security. Here's another article on safes (for gold and silver) that I thought summarized some key points and explained various UL ratings and what they mean.

     

    http://www.321gold.com/editorials/laborde/laborde120212.html

     

    My personal posture is that a RSC (residential security container) serves just two purposes: keep guns out of the hands of kids or any other casual visitors, and prevent any simple smash and grab burglar from just running off with everything. Most big box model safes are various levels of RSCs.The UL RSC classification means that any specific RSC labelled container will resist forced opening for up to *five* minutes by an attacker using simple, non powered, hand tools. We're talking screwdrives, hammers, and pry bars LESS then 18" long. RSC's are not rated against any attack by power tools or any attack lasting longer then five minutes.

     

    I have noted that given enough time and tools, ANY safe can be defeated. And time seems to be the most likely variable in play, since most residential burglars don't travel with torches, explosives, six foot pry bars etc. So in other words if I buy a $5,000 safe but have no alarm system to dramatically shorten a burglar's work time, I may not have accomplished much.

     

    So when thinking safe and secure gun storage, don't focus just on the safe as your single point of failure. Include:

     

    A house as secure as possible, with obvious security weaknesses removed.

    A monitored alarm system so burglars have limited time to work.

    Insurance to cover the amount of your gun collection you'd like to recover. (Almost anything can be replaced if you have the money.)

    A closed mouth, so the fact you even have a safe and why is not public information.

    A safe whose strength and security is commensurate with the value you're protecting, bolted down in an appropriate fashion.

    Perhaps some select firearms concealed elsewhere in the house. (If they can see it, your safe is an obvious suggestion where to look.)

    At least a basic plan of defense against home invasion. (Do they have to break the safe open if they have a gun to your wife's head and ask you for the combination?)

     

    Just some more things to think about. At the end of the day, security is an illusion.

    This is a pretty good synapsis.

     

    A real safe and not an RSC you won't be able to pry open without using some kind of hydraulic device.

    Also, any TL15, TL30, and TL60 you WON'T be able to break into. Even with my vast knowledge and years of experience I haven't seen any normal theif actually get into the safe. Some have had 6-8 hours to do so....

    I am not going to get specific but those safes are not penetratable without specific tools and experience. This is not a safe you will find in a house unless there are a lot of valuables but simply put you aren't getting into one period unless you are a safe technician.

     

    I just wanted to point out that there are actual safes that people won't be able to get into. If you have the right tools, time, and knowledge anything is possible. But there are very few people that have the knowledge to do so.


  7. Dicks you can order on-line and ship to store for free. When you pick it up they will put it in your truck for you. That's how I did it. Also me and a friend moved the 32+6 gun safe our selves, we had a hand truck do most of the work.

    It makes it easier if you remove the safe door and move it in 2 pieces.

    The door will lift of when in the open position.


  8. If you're looking for a safe, amsec, sturdy, or graffunder. Everything else doesn't even come close. Even among those, graffunder is way ahead of the competition.

     

    The other brands like liberty and cannon are rsc's at best and lockers at worst.

     

    It really comes down to how much you want to spend. But I don't see the point in spending thousands on guns then cheapening out on something that's supposed to protect the investment

    Well said but you are speaking to many people with different budgets and other variables.

    Doing what I do I find these questions hard to try and add a helpful response.

     

    I am going to contact a few distributors and see if I can get some info on a possible group buy. I am already in the industry so I would think this will be fairly easy to setup.

     

    Mods, I will contact you to check if this conforms to the rules as soon as I get some more info.


  9. Yea, like we said. 3 mags instead of 2.... Do the math. Mags are about 45 bux if you get them seperately. Mepro tritiums about 130 bux. Plus if you can't install them yourself, an installation fee on top of it all. The difference in price between the 2 is a no brainer unless you don't care about night sights.Average difference in price is an 100 bux between both models.

    Yeah, I know that alone is worth it. Makes it a no brainier.......

     

    Just asking cause a friend thought there was another difference.

    Thanks, I might be sending a coworker to you.

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