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Eric.

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Posts posted by Eric.

  1. Posted

    As long as 6.5 isn't too much for my wee frail frame I'll do that.  Let's hear some barrel thoughts?

     

    I'm running a Bartlein 5r, M40 profile, 25" cut.  Shoots well and has almost no cold bore shift, currently.  

     

    My preferred profiles are M40 or Heavy Palma.  Going back to 26" on the next rebarrel.

  4. Posted

    I've been researching a lot and I am probably going to get two G2DMR reticle Bushnell's.  One for my 300 Win Mag build and one for my 6mmAR.  I have a vortex PST on that I'll put on my AR10 and the 3.x9 firedot Leupold will go on my 6.8 and my 1-6 tactical Leupold from the 6.8 will go on my Wilson Combat SBR.

     

    IMO, for long range, the Bushnell DMR 3.5-21 with G2 reticle should be plenty good.  I feel it is just a tiny bit below the top glass and unless you are competing in PRS, you'll never miss the minor differences.  Good bang for your buck.

  5. Posted

    Obviously, the glass has to match the limits of the round as part of a system.  

     

    As far as magnification, a variable power scope that goes from, say, 5-20 or 25x is what you want.  Anything higher and you'll wind up dialing up back due to mirage, etc.

     

    If you want very high quality glass that is priced well, look into a Bushnell HDMR or Vortex Razor, gen I.  I run the Gen I Razor and IMO, its about as good as the Gen II (short of the extreme situations I.e. Low light) but about $1000 cheaper.  The Gen I is noticibly better than a Vortex PST.  Its all about light transmission and clarity, you just can't skimp here.

     

    I prefer a FFP reticle too, for the reasons stated.

     

    I shoot a 6.5 Creedmoor and it out performs a 308 by leaps and bounds past a few hundred yards.  Its not even close.  The factory ammo is ahout the same price as match 308 and very good.  Sub half Moa, in some guns. Barrel life for a Creedmoor is around 2500-3000 in my experience, compared to about 4000-5000 in 308.  Keep in mind, I'm referring to when groups start opening up and you get more frequent flyers, not "service life".

  6. Posted

    The threads get re-cut, single point, on a lathe.  All indicated off the centerline of your bolt raceway (God I hope I'm saying this correctly so I don't look like a complete ass)  If you simply re-tap them it's a waste as the barrel will go in crooked in relation to the squared up faces of the receiver and bolt.  

     

    It takes a good bit of training to make it right.  It's a beautiful thing when done correctly.

    Chris,

     

    I believe the threads aren't recut.  Instead, they chase them, which is just running the tap and making sure there are no high spots or tight/bent threads.  If you recut threads, you are removing much more material and would have to make the opening larger, which needs a larger diameter threaded barrel end.  If not, the barrel would be too loose when screwing it on.

     

    Hopefully, Mike/Tier One or another gunsmithing expert can confirm this?

  7. Posted

    Although I agree with you on that point I also believe if the technology exists and you want it, it should be available to you. Look at all the crap people buy.

    Good point, lol.

     

    Im still waiting for the day that i see someone with a 100 round drum hanging below his bolt gun. Tacticool.

  8. Posted

    Just to echo what Ty said-

     

    I'm not a fan of Horus reticles either.  I suggest you try a scope w/a Horus first.

     

    for me, they are too busy.  Too distracting.  If you are using the reticle for holdovers, at a higher magnification, I feel like I am viewing the target through a window screen...

  11. Posted

    I use a Bogen (Manfratto) w/ a #3047 Pan/Tilt Head w/ interchangeable mounting plate and bubble level built-in.  It's about 30 yrs old now.  Lasted my entire career as a Photog.  Lester Bogen used to be pictured in the still ads SITTING on his tripods.  I use it for Camera work, Spotting at the Range and Birding in Cape May and other spots.  My Nikkor ED 25-75x with 82mm front lens objective (filter thread) sits on it just right!

     

    Like I've been sayin' all along:  Buy ONCE and cry ONCE!

     

    Dave

    Yep, can't go wrong with a Manfrotto.  I have an older 3021 with a pan/tilt fluid head.  Its rock solid, infinitely adjustable and smooth.  I use it as my shooting tripod, using a saddle to hold a 17lb rifle.  

     

    Mine is a lil on the heavy side.  I'm sure the modern materials like carbon fiber can cut weight, on the newer models.

  18. Posted

    "There is a big difference between good glass and cheap glass. There is a smaller gap between good glass and top of the line glass. There is a HUGE gap between the top of the line stuff and bottom end glass"

    We agree on that part. This part though

    "there is plenty of info on the Net from actual experiences" are they all "actual?" This is the Internet after all.

     

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

    Agreed, that while some opinions are legit, some opinions might be crap, on the Interwebz. More importantly, what i was saying, is that above a range toy, ive never seen or heard of Barska being considered.

  19. Posted

    I've put 2336 rounds through my other AR, over 2000 of those with that barska scope and never once had it fail me or require maintenance or adjustment even after taking it off and putting it back in the same place. It doesn't require batteries but you can use batteries for the red and green reticles. It has locking rings to keep the knobs from moving or being moved inadvertently. I don't believe that paying stupid money for glass is necessary. It's for elitists, tacticool crowd and those with less sense than money. Some might be worth it, but when we're talking the realm of the same, close, or more money than the weapon itself. You're paying for a name. It isn't necessary. You do get what you pay for often, but sometimes, you get much less.

     

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

    I hear your opinion but with all due respect, its contrary to most other opinions on scopes. 

     

    There is a big difference between good glass and cheap glass.  There is a smaller gap between good glass and top of the line glass.  There is a HUGE gap between the top of the line stuff and bottom end glass, like a Barska.  I'm not gonna write a tome on this, there is plenty of info on the Net from actual experiences.

     

    Long story, short- quality glass makes a bigger difference, the longer the distance or the worse the lighting is.  Quality scopes are more durable and reliable.  For me, the biggest issue is how reliable of a zero it holds, especially after dialing the turrets and if the gun gets banged around a little.  Also, how accurately the turrets track is big.

     

    With Barskas, its fine if it sits on a range toy that rarely gets dialed up/down, only goes out on clear, non rainy daytimes and is never used past a couple hundred yards.  For those that have needs above that, no one with experience recommends a Barska. Nobody.

  21. Posted

    For me, the decisions start with what i want to do with it. If you want a range toy, then $700 is very reasonable. If you want a precision rifle or wanna compete with it, then its gonna cost more. Like the car guys say; speed is money. How fast ya wanna go?

     

    Either way, i would definitely build your own. Its not hard, potentially better quality for the same money and you learn about the AR platform.

  22. Posted

    You'd have to provide the charge weight as I've never used Varget. I've read too many posts about metering issues with Dillon PMs so I never considered it even though I know it works well with the caliber and is temperature insensitive.

    I'm at 24.2 gr of Varget and Hornady 75gr .223 pills.

  23. Posted

    Nice Eric.  thnx.

     

    The MPA chassis is a little over 5 lbs.  Wondering what the actual weight of the McRee is?

     

    I forget the exact weight but iirc, the G5 folder was around 5.5lbs.  This is compared with a Manners mini chassis stock that is around 4.25 lbs and the KRG X Ray, which is abut 3.3 lbs.

     

    Also, McRee seems to have a new model G10 folder, which is around 4lbs.

  24. Posted

    Ordinarily I'd be happy to share my recipes however I do not share anything that has a powder charge over book max for safety/liability reasons.

     

    I can understand that.  Im gonna do my own ladder, either way.

     

    Maybe you wouldnt mind answering if the powder load you ended up with is similar to using Varget? (If not, again, I understand)

  25. Posted

    I use 75gr Hornady BTHP bullets. They're relatively cheap without sacrificing performance. My precision .223 uses IMR 8208 XBR for powder. It's a short extruded powder that I have found meters +/- .1gr in my Dillon measures. Being a short powder, it doesn't bridge across the case mouth the way longer powders like H4895 do (which I use for .308). My load is near max but out of an 18" bbl, I'm getting 2850fps with the 75gr Hornady HPBT and sub-MOA accuracy.

    Ty,

     

    Would you mind sharing your load data?  

     

    I'm tired of beating the bushes for Varget and am thinking about switching.

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